GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
#9926
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Wen they first came out I switched to them from nylon and had one fail so as soon as the metal gear's came out I have gone to them for every thing but throttle, and for the kind of flying I do analog's work for me but that may change.
My oldest flying buddy has switched one of his birds to all digitals to see how much it would effect his flying, and he feel's the biggest change was it smoothed out the throttle response especially at the low end hi idle for landings.
Hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
#9927
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thanks for the input. At times it feels like I'm starting over. Things have changed so much since the last time I've built a plane.
Tonight I fabricated an 1/8" ply former to epoxy to the front of the tailwheel mounting rail. It will serve as the front edge support for the gear doors. I figured it's a lot easier to do it now that after it's sheeted. While I was looking at it and dreading trying to glue bottom sheeting on I decided to add 4 extra 1/4sq. stringers.
Just seems like it will keep the shape better and allow me to wrap and glue the sheeting in smaller steps. 4 extra lightweight stringers won't add much weight and I think it will be worth it. The stringers aren't glued or cut to length in the picture so it looks kind of funky but I'm happy with it.
Tonight I fabricated an 1/8" ply former to epoxy to the front of the tailwheel mounting rail. It will serve as the front edge support for the gear doors. I figured it's a lot easier to do it now that after it's sheeted. While I was looking at it and dreading trying to glue bottom sheeting on I decided to add 4 extra 1/4sq. stringers.
Just seems like it will keep the shape better and allow me to wrap and glue the sheeting in smaller steps. 4 extra lightweight stringers won't add much weight and I think it will be worth it. The stringers aren't glued or cut to length in the picture so it looks kind of funky but I'm happy with it.
#9928
My Feedback: (6)
Steve
What I have done is pick up a plastic meat tenderizer syringe the one with a bent end on it, target/wallyworld etc, and a bag of #64 rubber bands from office max /staples then select your wood try to get enough of all the same feel texture/flexibility etc, I like (tight bond) but any of the alpha glue will do make the out side sloppy wet, ( I match the seam edge first and mark it) cut the piece about 1/4 wider than you need. put the glue on the stringers match the seam from the marks tack in spots with c/a and put the rubber bands around the fuse to hold/shape, while the glue dries as many as it takes I like this better than pins as you don't get the split wood and yes it is slow but you get nice curves this way. But if you have a system that works for you then that's the best way for you.
Just this old geezer blabbering
Cheers Bob T
What I have done is pick up a plastic meat tenderizer syringe the one with a bent end on it, target/wallyworld etc, and a bag of #64 rubber bands from office max /staples then select your wood try to get enough of all the same feel texture/flexibility etc, I like (tight bond) but any of the alpha glue will do make the out side sloppy wet, ( I match the seam edge first and mark it) cut the piece about 1/4 wider than you need. put the glue on the stringers match the seam from the marks tack in spots with c/a and put the rubber bands around the fuse to hold/shape, while the glue dries as many as it takes I like this better than pins as you don't get the split wood and yes it is slow but you get nice curves this way. But if you have a system that works for you then that's the best way for you.
Just this old geezer blabbering
Cheers Bob T
Last edited by rt3232; 05-13-2015 at 06:57 PM.
#9930
My Feedback: (85)
Pete
#9931
My Feedback: (6)
Inverted with wheels retracted. It matters here due to the 90deg rotation. When you let the wheels down the mass will shift forward giving you a slightly nose heavy condition. If balanced neutral with wheels down then the retracted condition will make the plane tail heavy.
Pete
Pete
Just my two pennies worth
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
#9932
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Hi all-
I am about a month away (have to finish an ongoing project) from starting on my TF Giant Scale Corsair. Kit has been sitting under my work bench for a while. I would like to start reading pertinent portions of this thread, but just looking through it is pretty daunting.
I really appreciate the first post edit with the "table of contents" but ask if there is an index that would help with the following (having built TF kits before):
Problems where the plans and/or the manual just are incorrect or ambiguous and need further explanations assuming a pretty experienced builder.
Problems where latter steps are better done earlier in order to make the assembly easier (like routing push rods inside the fuse or wings before sheeting).
Substitutions that just make sense.
Any help at all would be appreciated.
Thanks-
Larry
I am about a month away (have to finish an ongoing project) from starting on my TF Giant Scale Corsair. Kit has been sitting under my work bench for a while. I would like to start reading pertinent portions of this thread, but just looking through it is pretty daunting.
I really appreciate the first post edit with the "table of contents" but ask if there is an index that would help with the following (having built TF kits before):
Problems where the plans and/or the manual just are incorrect or ambiguous and need further explanations assuming a pretty experienced builder.
Problems where latter steps are better done earlier in order to make the assembly easier (like routing push rods inside the fuse or wings before sheeting).
Substitutions that just make sense.
Any help at all would be appreciated.
Thanks-
Larry
#9933
My Feedback: (6)
Larry
Welcome to the thread. That said sense I finished mine I have had 2 computer hard drive crashes+ a back up drive. so I have lost a lot of my old notes. my advice is just remember every ounce aft of the C/G = 6 ounces less you will have to add fwd of the C/G. I will also assume you are some what of an experienced builder
NOW
What engine will you be using ? what retracts ? air or electric ? what tail wheel retract Robart's or a scale one like Earl Arney (spelling) sells, are you planning to make some of the mods to make it more scale like ie: shape of the rudder, wing tips, gear doors and such.
I would suggest you have all of these things before you start as it really helps in planning how you do things, Also use the index/table in post # 1 just pick a post in the area you have a question and click thru every other one, I have done this just to ansure a question for some of the guys over the years .
Above all don't be afraid to ask questions no matter how dumm you may think they are, We all have different ways to do things, and generally I try to do the easiest, and look at other threads not necessarily Corsair for good idea's.
So I will try to give you any help I can, but there are others that great ideas, and more knowledgeable than me on the Corsair.
Hope this gets you started.
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
Welcome to the thread. That said sense I finished mine I have had 2 computer hard drive crashes+ a back up drive. so I have lost a lot of my old notes. my advice is just remember every ounce aft of the C/G = 6 ounces less you will have to add fwd of the C/G. I will also assume you are some what of an experienced builder
NOW
What engine will you be using ? what retracts ? air or electric ? what tail wheel retract Robart's or a scale one like Earl Arney (spelling) sells, are you planning to make some of the mods to make it more scale like ie: shape of the rudder, wing tips, gear doors and such.
I would suggest you have all of these things before you start as it really helps in planning how you do things, Also use the index/table in post # 1 just pick a post in the area you have a question and click thru every other one, I have done this just to ansure a question for some of the guys over the years .
Above all don't be afraid to ask questions no matter how dumm you may think they are, We all have different ways to do things, and generally I try to do the easiest, and look at other threads not necessarily Corsair for good idea's.
So I will try to give you any help I can, but there are others that great ideas, and more knowledgeable than me on the Corsair.
Hope this gets you started.
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
#9934
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Bob T-
Thanks for the response.
Just for info-
I will be using a new Zenoah G62 engine (already bought)
I will be using Robart electric retracts including Robart tail wheel (already bought)
I am kind of interested in scale but not to the extent that it will take awhile to do --I don't know if that makes sense--I guess if it is easy to do, I will do it.
Building a kit is not an issue for me---have done it a few times before and do not consider taking a while to get a done any sort of issue--I have plenty of other planes to fly in the meantime.
Thanks again-and appreciate the note back.
Larry
Thanks for the response.
Just for info-
I will be using a new Zenoah G62 engine (already bought)
I will be using Robart electric retracts including Robart tail wheel (already bought)
I am kind of interested in scale but not to the extent that it will take awhile to do --I don't know if that makes sense--I guess if it is easy to do, I will do it.
Building a kit is not an issue for me---have done it a few times before and do not consider taking a while to get a done any sort of issue--I have plenty of other planes to fly in the meantime.
Thanks again-and appreciate the note back.
Larry
#9935
My Feedback: (6)
Hi Larry
with what you have posted, you biggest concern will be keeping the aft end as light as possible, from my notes in the margin of my manual pg 12 Rudder build step one to change the top of the rudder to be more scale like I re made the AFT BASE to extend the upper curve about 1/4,if you compare pic's on a full size and what in the plans the Rudder needs to be more rounded, so vary easy if you start right. I did not care for some of the wood furnished, so I replaced it with better wood selection for the part.
Good luck with your build and Please post pic's as you go
Cheers Bob T
with what you have posted, you biggest concern will be keeping the aft end as light as possible, from my notes in the margin of my manual pg 12 Rudder build step one to change the top of the rudder to be more scale like I re made the AFT BASE to extend the upper curve about 1/4,if you compare pic's on a full size and what in the plans the Rudder needs to be more rounded, so vary easy if you start right. I did not care for some of the wood furnished, so I replaced it with better wood selection for the part.
Good luck with your build and Please post pic's as you go
Cheers Bob T
#9936
Wow. Here i am thinking that there hasnt been a post here in a couple of months, so i look in my subscriptions list and the thread wasnt there anymore. It somehow got removed from my subs. Now i see theres a few pages i missed. huh, weird. Well, good to see theres life afterall. I havent been in the shop at all in quite some time, but i did manage to get the bench cleaned off and the F4-U back up there. Now ill need a day or two just to figure out where i was. Glad to be back.
#9938
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Hi Guy's I can say after building the giant kit version and having a mystery as to why it crashed, no dumb thumbs, no nothing. I went and got the ARF version. there is considerable difference in construction the tail is a lot different than the kit. So save as much weight as you can in the tail. My ARF is almost ready for flight. I have the EME electric starter on board, and hooked up to the buddy box switch as it only runs for a short time.
But enough to turn the engine over. Power is a RCGF 60 engine, JR guidance.
Just have to re check the CG and then she'll be ready. The maiden flight will be next month. John Taylor Corsair brotherhood #96
But enough to turn the engine over. Power is a RCGF 60 engine, JR guidance.
Just have to re check the CG and then she'll be ready. The maiden flight will be next month. John Taylor Corsair brotherhood #96
#9939
My Feedback: (6)
Hi John
I have to ask, describe what happened and when as this old bugger don't recall you saying any thing.
From what I know if you don't have the C/G right, having built 2 kits a little nose heavy can be your frind, or this bird will be like having a wild cat by the tail.
cheers Bob T
I have to ask, describe what happened and when as this old bugger don't recall you saying any thing.
From what I know if you don't have the C/G right, having built 2 kits a little nose heavy can be your frind, or this bird will be like having a wild cat by the tail.
cheers Bob T
#9941
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I started adding to this thread back in March when I dusted off my bench and started working on mine. It's been a little while since I posted as well. Still making progress. I wanted to get all the controls worked out, servos installed and etc before I sheeted the bottom of the fuse and it closed up for good.
I now have all that taken care of and will be sheeting this week. Still waiting on my G62ei that has been backordered since I placed the order March 16.
I'm going to need it before I go much further along.
I now have all that taken care of and will be sheeting this week. Still waiting on my G62ei that has been backordered since I placed the order March 16.
I'm going to need it before I go much further along.
#9942
Hi Guy's I can say after building the giant kit version and having a mystery as to why it crashed, no dumb thumbs, no nothing. I went and got the ARF version. there is considerable difference in construction the tail is a lot different than the kit. So save as much weight as you can in the tail. My ARF is almost ready for flight. I have the EME electric starter on board, and hooked up to the buddy box switch as it only runs for a short time.
But enough to turn the engine over. Power is a RCGF 60 engine, JR guidance.
Just have to re check the CG and then she'll be ready. The maiden flight will be next month. John Taylor Corsair brotherhood #96
But enough to turn the engine over. Power is a RCGF 60 engine, JR guidance.
Just have to re check the CG and then she'll be ready. The maiden flight will be next month. John Taylor Corsair brotherhood #96
Hi,
Did you omit the dummy engine or carve it up to accommodate the auto-start?
#9943
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Hi Steve,
I'm still shooting for the July maiden,with that said I have my friend coming over to go thru the whole plane once more,and after that
CG it,run the engine and wait till July.unless I get lucky and sell it before,but as luck will have it that probably won't happen.
I'm still shooting for the July maiden,with that said I have my friend coming over to go thru the whole plane once more,and after that
CG it,run the engine and wait till July.unless I get lucky and sell it before,but as luck will have it that probably won't happen.
#9944
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Hi Guy's First on my new Corsair I had to cut up the dummy engine to allow for the starter gears. only had to remove the center hub and 3 cylinders. It takes away from the scale look of the plane.
Now to the event full day. I already had a successful flight on my sport plane, a 30 cc MXS-R. The range check went with out a hitch. So I started up the Corsair and taxied out. Took off to the west circled back to the east
and was heading west. Got half way down the field and it took a nose dive for no reason. Had nothing. It was like I had given the stick full down. Salvaged what I could. So for the first minute it looked promising. As to why it went in I have no idea. I'm now using JR equipment. And have had another friend look over the set up so I'm hoping not to re-pete last years flight. So that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
John Taylor Corsair Brotherhood #96
Now to the event full day. I already had a successful flight on my sport plane, a 30 cc MXS-R. The range check went with out a hitch. So I started up the Corsair and taxied out. Took off to the west circled back to the east
and was heading west. Got half way down the field and it took a nose dive for no reason. Had nothing. It was like I had given the stick full down. Salvaged what I could. So for the first minute it looked promising. As to why it went in I have no idea. I'm now using JR equipment. And have had another friend look over the set up so I'm hoping not to re-pete last years flight. So that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
John Taylor Corsair Brotherhood #96
#9945
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As to why I did not mention it before it was too pain full to relive it but I've gotten over it . And figure if it can help anyone that is building one now then why not post it. Next step to recheck the CG and secure the cowl.
Hope this helps those building the Giant F4U. Oh on the first one I had the Earl Anne tail wheel it was not that much trouble to incorporate in the tail. I wanted the scale effect. However in the ARF I chose not to use it
as I would have had to cut a support at the bottom of the fin and did not want to do that. So the Robart tail wheel unit is being used. Along with the Mains which are air. John Taylor Corsair brotherhood #96
Hope this helps those building the Giant F4U. Oh on the first one I had the Earl Anne tail wheel it was not that much trouble to incorporate in the tail. I wanted the scale effect. However in the ARF I chose not to use it
as I would have had to cut a support at the bottom of the fin and did not want to do that. So the Robart tail wheel unit is being used. Along with the Mains which are air. John Taylor Corsair brotherhood #96
#9946
My Feedback: (6)
Hay John I under stand about the pain, and I don't want to prolong it but what Radio frek are you using our little club has all most all converted to 2.4and the only safe chnl's on 72 mghts are the first 4 on the low end as we had several do the same thing, nose in or go wild.
But they all have a time stamp, we just don't know when it is, and sorry for the lose.
Cheers Bob T
But they all have a time stamp, we just don't know when it is, and sorry for the lose.
Cheers Bob T
#9947
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Hi Bob, I was using Spektrum DX-18 at the time with a AR10000 RX. The receiver came back from Horizon with no issues. Hope this helps but I do not want a battle as to which radio is better to start here. So that's it.
Thanks John Taylor Corsair Brotherhood #96
Thanks John Taylor Corsair Brotherhood #96
#9948
Could happen to ANY radio at ANY time. No battles needed. Well, Its not much, but i got all of the skins glued up for the fuse bottom and sheeted the forward fuse bottom this morning. Ive checked and re checked everything to make sure im not missing anything before i close up the tail. Good to go. I also replaced the rear side stringers with 1/4 x 1/4 aspen as to avoid extra blocking for the tail wheel doors. I actually weighed the two sticks before gluing them in and there was no weight gain from the balsa sticks. What are you guys hinging the TW doors with? Piano hinges?
#9949
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hi guys been working on my Sopwith pup balsa USA an my top flite p-47 recovered have the corsair set for next winter build project have electric retracts an im waiting for the top flite arf wheels the are 4.5" an look great used a 1/4" hex head bolt to use as the shaft on my robart retracts works great but the wheels at tower are always on back order you can paint them which in the scale bird i'm doing has white wheels all good you guys need to get on NASA Scale on face book an see about joining NASA scale an flying in the scale events its a great time at the events an your get to rub shoulders with some of the master builders in the hobby check it out guys they can answer question of how too s and fly this bird your building