GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
11-23-2016, 05:50 PM
Maybe to seal the wood? Don't know, unless their wood working is that bad. I know on my wing for the P-51 I had a few bad sections from having to make changes mid stream so I had to do some filler work, but priming prior to glassing?
11-23-2016, 07:47 PM
On second watching of the video I linked, I do think that model is glassed already. But the one I'm building was partially started when I got it and the first builder definitely laid down some grey "stuff" - never seen a grey putty so I assume it's primer, but it doesn't sound like there's much of a good reason for it.
11-24-2016, 03:53 PM
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Well I will add my to pennies worth, Now as I am a old geezer years back and I mead way back there was a lacquer based gray spot putty that I did use when I built up my 29 A hot rod but as I recall you had to use vary thin or it would crack as it would shrink, same a todays Evercoat. now the only thing I use is the 2 part Bondo pro spot putty, it does not shrink all most imposable to pull from balsa, and if glassing you get a good chem bond with the epoxy and glass. You can thin the past with acetone or lacquer thinner( I like the lacquer thinner best as it does not flash off as fast ) and you can extend the use time by cutting the red part 2by 50 %. after priming it all most looks like a metal surface
But that is just this old Goat
Cheers Bob T.
But that is just this old Goat
Cheers Bob T.
11-29-2016, 09:29 PM
I feel like this should be a lot easier that I'm making it, but in 30 minutes I just created a couple hours of work for myself by drilling aileron hinges and then the aileron not being centered vertically on the trailing edge of the wing. I'll need to make some balsa plugs to fill the holes and start over, but since the aileron and trailing edge taper unevenly (meaning the lower surface of the wing tapers more as you move toward the tip than the upper surface), what's the best method for ensuring good fitting and properly placed hinge points? Hope that question makes sense. I just mean because of the change on the trailing edge you can't just drill each hinge point at the center and expect them to line up.
I gave up for the night since I need to buy some brass tube to make balsa plugs anyway, now I'm off to search this thread for any discussion or pictures of aileron hinging techniques.
I gave up for the night since I need to buy some brass tube to make balsa plugs anyway, now I'm off to search this thread for any discussion or pictures of aileron hinging techniques.
11-30-2016, 07:54 AM
Have that, but there's two problems. First, the trailing edge of the wing is wider than the maximum thickness of that jig. I still used it to aid in drilling a straight hole, but it doesn't work for centering the hole. But second, in this airplane the holes can't be centered anyway because of the taper of the trailing edge. I'll try to draw a crude example to demonstrate in case I'm not making any sense.
Assuming this was drawn somewhat accurately and the red dots represent the center of the trailing edge, the shape of the trailing edge doesn't allow for centering each hinge point and getting an even hinge line. What I did was center the outer two hinges on the aileron and then drew a line connecting them. I just did a poor job transferring the proper locations to the wing itself and drilled those incorrectly so the aileron sat too low. That's the part I'm having trouble with really.
Like I said I know I'm making this more difficult than it should be. I just need to plug up the holes and try again.
Assuming this was drawn somewhat accurately and the red dots represent the center of the trailing edge, the shape of the trailing edge doesn't allow for centering each hinge point and getting an even hinge line. What I did was center the outer two hinges on the aileron and then drew a line connecting them. I just did a poor job transferring the proper locations to the wing itself and drilled those incorrectly so the aileron sat too low. That's the part I'm having trouble with really.
Like I said I know I'm making this more difficult than it should be. I just need to plug up the holes and try again.
11-30-2016, 11:00 AM
In that case, easiest way I found is to center the hole on the aileron, and drill that, then use a centering pin to mark the spot to drill on the trailing edge. That last hinge is a bugger to get right due to the way the Corsairs wingtip cants up like that. The center isn't really the center, you have to make the hinge line run tip to center on the wing, and center across the aileron.
I made my own centering pin from a hardwood dowel. I tapered it to fit into the pin hole and sharpened the other end to a point, this way it slips into the hole on the aileron, and when pressed against the wing in the correct position, marks where to drill the hole on the wing.
I made my own centering pin from a hardwood dowel. I tapered it to fit into the pin hole and sharpened the other end to a point, this way it slips into the hole on the aileron, and when pressed against the wing in the correct position, marks where to drill the hole on the wing.
11-30-2016, 11:45 AM
I made my own centering pin from a hardwood dowel. I tapered it to fit into the pin hole and sharpened the other end to a point, this way it slips into the hole on the aileron, and when pressed against the wing in the correct position, marks where to drill the hole on the wing.
11-30-2016, 03:57 PM
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What acdii said + 1, but when you get ready to do the flaps it is a whole new ball game, use the endex on page #1 it can help I use it from time to time to try to help answer questions.
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
AMA13377
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
AMA13377
11-30-2016, 08:45 PM
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Auburn02,
I can understand where your coming from,
I had the same problems when it came to hinging up the flaps after screwing them up and using the jig, I said screw it I went to my local hobby shop and got a pack of Dubro 1/4 scale hinges and hinged them accordingly, and they work perfectly, more than one way to skin the cat
I can understand where your coming from,
I had the same problems when it came to hinging up the flaps after screwing them up and using the jig, I said screw it I went to my local hobby shop and got a pack of Dubro 1/4 scale hinges and hinged them accordingly, and they work perfectly, more than one way to skin the cat
12-01-2016, 02:29 PM
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predman
I don't have a clue on the Hanger 9 cowl but the last one I got from fiberglass specialties with the flaps slightly open is 10 3/4 across at the out side of the flaps and the depth is 8 3/4 from the back to the aft edge of the nose role and by mounting it flush on top I have about 1/4 cap at 3 &9 oclock and about 5/8 at 6 oclock
Hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
AMA13377
I don't have a clue on the Hanger 9 cowl but the last one I got from fiberglass specialties with the flaps slightly open is 10 3/4 across at the out side of the flaps and the depth is 8 3/4 from the back to the aft edge of the nose role and by mounting it flush on top I have about 1/4 cap at 3 &9 oclock and about 5/8 at 6 oclock
Hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood # 6
AMA13377
12-01-2016, 06:26 PM
12-02-2016, 07:24 AM
Does anyone have any pics of the installation of one of the Earl Aune tailwheels or similar? I have one of the ones DaddySam made and years ago I fabbed up a 1/8" ply former to mount it to, but I'm not confident my installation is the strongest as the former is only glued to the balsa sides and stringers. At the very least I'll probably brace it with some spruce supports to the next former ahead of it or the like, but figured if anyone had pics of their installs that would help.
12-02-2016, 12:25 PM
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Im using Earl's tail wheel in my Corsair. I can get you a pic next time I'm in the shop. If you look back through this thread I may already posted one or two pics of it.
Steve
Steve
12-02-2016, 02:33 PM
I did go find your pic Steve, post 9916. Looks like that Earl gear uses the original mounting rails. The tailwheels DaddySam made had a flat front plate instead of the 90 degree bend to attach to a rail, if that makes sense. I'll try to update with a picture of my own soon to show what I mean and get some input on how to strengthen the installation.
12-02-2016, 07:47 PM
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Well,
Just getting back into things been lurking on this thread for a couple of years now. I had to take a year off from Flying and building. I'm slowly easing back into the corsair. Here is where I am at. I intend on modeling this after a friend of mine's father John Malcolm Smith an original Member of VF-17 the Jolly Rodgers and a survivor of the Bunker Hill VF-84. He finished WWII with 10 confirmed Kills.
Z
Just getting back into things been lurking on this thread for a couple of years now. I had to take a year off from Flying and building. I'm slowly easing back into the corsair. Here is where I am at. I intend on modeling this after a friend of mine's father John Malcolm Smith an original Member of VF-17 the Jolly Rodgers and a survivor of the Bunker Hill VF-84. He finished WWII with 10 confirmed Kills.
Z
Last edited by Nordicz; 12-02-2016 at 08:49 PM.
12-03-2016, 05:23 AM
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Earl's tailwheel required cutting a slot through one of the mounting rails and opening up the F9 or F10..whichever one that is on.
I did some reinforcing of the slotted rail but for the most part not a lot required to fit it.
Looking good Nordicz!
I considered doing John Smith's #22... that was the number I wore when I played hockey.
I'm doing mine up as #596 of Lt. Robert Hanson.
I purchased a print from Mark Styling and recently had it matted and framed.
Now I have even more incentive to get my Corsair completed! My awesome girlfriend ordered cut kit & wood for a Ziroli Hellcat for me as a Christmas gift !! I'm a lucky guy
I did some reinforcing of the slotted rail but for the most part not a lot required to fit it.
Looking good Nordicz!
I considered doing John Smith's #22... that was the number I wore when I played hockey.
I'm doing mine up as #596 of Lt. Robert Hanson.
I purchased a print from Mark Styling and recently had it matted and framed.
Now I have even more incentive to get my Corsair completed! My awesome girlfriend ordered cut kit & wood for a Ziroli Hellcat for me as a Christmas gift !! I'm a lucky guy
Last edited by ibow24; 12-03-2016 at 06:12 AM.
12-04-2016, 07:11 PM
Let's see if I can attach these pics from my phone. This is the DaddySam wheel that only has a flat mounting surface, but I think after checking it out it's plenty strong with the former I made and how I have it supported. Might just put a couple braces to that next former ahead for good measure. Yoy can see where I carved out a lot of the original mounts for the Robart gear.
One more thing for now: I built my outer flaps around 4 years ago, and darn if they aren't each exactly 1/4" shorter than the manual calls for. Can't figure out why I might have done that unless it was from a suggestion in this thread. If I can't figure it out in just laminate each end with a 1/8" end shim to get back to the suggested length.
Since we're talking schemes, I'm going with John Blackburn's "Big Hog" I think. Been done before but looks good and has some art I can replicate. I'm not going for Top Gun scale here, so one first obvious mistake is I'll probably paint the landing gear white even though his never had that as best I can tell.
One more thing for now: I built my outer flaps around 4 years ago, and darn if they aren't each exactly 1/4" shorter than the manual calls for. Can't figure out why I might have done that unless it was from a suggestion in this thread. If I can't figure it out in just laminate each end with a 1/8" end shim to get back to the suggested length.
Since we're talking schemes, I'm going with John Blackburn's "Big Hog" I think. Been done before but looks good and has some art I can replicate. I'm not going for Top Gun scale here, so one first obvious mistake is I'll probably paint the landing gear white even though his never had that as best I can tell.
Last edited by Auburn02; 12-04-2016 at 07:16 PM.
12-05-2016, 06:34 PM
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tailwheel mount looks good. I think it should work fine.
I built my flaps per the plan and they came out short. I just don't remember where it was short. I also don't remember if I rebuilt them or just add stock on each end to make them fit.
I built my flaps per the plan and they came out short. I just don't remember where it was short. I also don't remember if I rebuilt them or just add stock on each end to make them fit.
12-05-2016, 10:11 PM
I did beef up the gear mount just a bit, now it's time to run steering cables and rig up my retract mechanism (going to attempt to use an air cylinder with a 1.5" stroke). Haven't looked at mounting location for that yet but should be manageable.
12-07-2016, 06:26 AM
Anyone with photos of their steering setup using an Earl Aune or DaddySam tailwheel? I want to use ball links on the tailwheel end, just not sure they'll have enough give as the angle of the tiller arm moves when the gear goes up. I would just install them and see for myself, but don't have any yet so while I wait to order them or see if the LHS has any, figured I'd ask. Couldn't find anything in the thread already.