ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

happy new year to all

grumman-cats

started routing control rods. the rudder was first with the servo being moved to the firewall. the rod will be along the outside edge of the fuse opening up the center section for other fun stuff. This is all really an attempt to improve balance of this plane. it will be getting a DLE 55, a little bit lighter of an engine.

ibow24

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Thanks for your thoughts... Also, after doing some reading on N magnets heat is their enemy as well so not a good choice for an enclosed cowl.

BobH

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I doubt that your cowl would get any where near hot enough to effect the holding power of Neodymium magnets.

grumman-cats

I just broke down and got the Hanger 9 exhaust accessory pack. It comes with the gun ports for the wing, wingtip lights, and antenna's. just some dress up stuff.

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Hangar 9 does have a lot of nice little bits for theirs and I wondered how the scale works out, i.e. kit you got, the drop tanks and bombs and hard points, etc. With the wingspan only an inch different, seems like they'd work just fine.

Very little progress despite the rainy weekend, spent most of it hungover or taking down Christmas. I did go ahead and install my tailwheel (possibly permanently, to be determined. I installed the pull-pull cables to make sure the geometry was good, so if I can leave it in and still finish around it I might be okay. The gear protrudes below the bottom of the fuse so I'd have to sheet around it and then lay up glass around it, but maybe that will work out better for the location of the cutout in the gear doors anyway.

I also would need to paint around it if I want to get some green paint in the well, but that doesn't need to be too perfect.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Auburn02

Just pull the pivot shaft out and tiy the lever arm to the stub of the gear gives you lots of room. also while it is out you might want to make a flat spot on the shaft for the allen set screw.

Idon't want to put strange thoughts in your head so soon after new years


Cheers Bob t
Corsair Brotherhood # 6

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the tip Bob, but I'm using a daddysam tail wheel so the parts aren't the same and it can't really come apart once it's in. I know I can work around it though.

In fact, I pretty much have to leave it in before I sheet because I don't plan on making an access hatch big enough to remove it. If it needs to come out I can cut out one later, but might just plan for the doors and that's it to start.

Hinged the flaps tonight. Haven't made my joiner discs yet or linked them to the servos, but knocking on wood I think I have them all hinged accurately on the first try. Also epoxied on one wingtip so I can be carving that while I decide what to tackle next. Still need to see about laser cutting Chad Veich's tail plans that I got too.

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Well here is my first attempt at detailing a dummy radial. As Bob T once famously said to me "It's not stand off scale, it's stand WAY off scale"
It was a lot of work and I had no idea what I was doing.. trying things on the fly. The ignition ring is aluminum tube bent around a bottle. The ignition wires are plastic coated wire with 2-56 brass nuts on both ends to look like fittings for the plugs. I think I went overboard with the silver "nicks and dings" in the paint but when I put a grimy black wash over everything it helped.. I'm pretty happy with it at "Stand WAY off scale" distance

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I think it looks very good!

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

I agree.. nice touch with the plug wires

Auburn02

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Yep, that looks awesome, great job. I have a feeling I'm going to be disappointed with the Top Flite abs radial, but I'll try to make something out of it at least.

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Dave Schwirian at Scale Specialties makes the nicest dummy radials and static propellers available for those who might be in the market.

http://www.scalespecialties.com/

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

I had seen those previously, the fact that it's already painted is pretty darn tempting for me. I would say I'd like to see a photo of one since they don't show any on the website, but honestly seeing the other things they offer I'm quite certain the engine would be very well done and far better than what I could fab up from the ABS kit.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

That looks great, Be sure to check temp's with that tape that turns color with heat ( I don't remember ware I got it, automotive parts house I think) any way it is accurate to about 25 degs , and I had to add 1/4 holes both sides of the cylinders for my G-62, will look in some old notes to see if I can be more specific on the tape and the temp's I found . gotta go the boss is wanting to go shopping .

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

thanks guys

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

who has pics of their G62 throttle and choke set up? I'm missing something and can't find any good pics.
thanks
Steve

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

I would post a pic but it's been so long I have forgot how

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

hit the 3rd icon from the lest "basic uploader" "chose file" from computer. find the pic and upload.

I think I have something that will work. I was having a hard time figuring out a way to operate the choke.

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Steve,
where is the "basic uploader"?

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

That's what happens when you get OLD you forget things but with some help hear I mine , the choke is just a push/pull rod hidden under a cowl flap

Cheers Bob t

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

my instructions were less than accurate...sorry. you click on that 3rd icon from the RIGHT.. a pop up window comes up and "basic uploader" in on the bottom right of that box.

Bob, your pic is pretty much what I came up with for the choke except my choke and throttle arms are both on the bottom. I took the butterfly off the choke rod to see if I could reverse it.. It didn't come out easy and I didn't want to force anything. Also the choke arm operates left to right not back to front if that makes sense.. I ran a 4-40 tap through the choke arm and cut a servo arm to fit over it then used a screw and lock nut.
I'll post a pick later. Not sure if it's the best way but it works.

grumman-cats

Here's a side by side look at the standard robart tail wheel and the Hanger 9 corsair robart tail wheel. as seen in the picture there is approximately 1 oz difference between the 2 with the hanger 9 being slightly heavier. the standard unit has about a 17mm stroke length and the hanger 9 unit is 36mm. I was hoping to use the electric unit off the standard to install on the other but there is too much of a stroke difference. this means I will need a retract servo to drive it. Not too much of a concern at this time. still going to try and fit it inside.

grumman-cats

Here they are in the extended position. definitely a considerable size difference.

grumman-cats

Here is it retracted and extended up against the plans using the stock mount in the plans. obviously if I install in this position there will need to be some holes cut into the horizontal stab support box so the wheel can move up inside. also will need some clearance in the support plate for the rudder control linkage.