nchrome

cdohaney you mite want to take and put some lighting holes in those tail serfaces. Its only grams there but back behind the cg translate into ozs. This will also translate into dead weight in the nose of your bird which I realy prefer not to add if at all possible. Just my 0.02 worth.

DaddySam

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Thanks for the kind words, guys. The corsair has stood on its mains, but I haven't cut out the tail wheel door area yet because I need to mold fiberglass doors over that area first. I'm still working with the flaps, trying to get the geometry of that middle section. I was busy with lots of other projects, and hadn't really figured out how I was going to proceed. I'm going to use wedges of G-10 to connect the flaps. They will be glued into the middle section and slide in and out of the inner and outermost sections as the flaps are driven by the servo. I've got those outer and inner sections glassed and am ready to fix them to the wing so I can really tweak that middle section. I've got one hinge point that is binding, but I"m sure I can resolve it. I really like the sliding canopy pix. Makes me want to try it again on mine.
sam

GaryM

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DaddySam, sent you a PM

Gary

rt3232

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Chris

I would secound the liting holes in the tail feathers , with the 62 it can save as much as 2lbs of dead height, if you have gone thru the thread you will see I used " soft" mounts but when pulled down tight the are not so soft just my choice.

Lots of kudoos on the canopy [sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif]That is still a little out of my skill range

Cheers Bob t

Corsair brotherhood #5

rt3232

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Sam
If you have them please post pic's of your hinge set up, are you using more than one servo per side??

Bob t

cdohaney

Thanks guys,

I will be putting lightening holes in the feathers before I cover them. Should the fuse and wings be glassed before laying up the glass for the gear doors or does it not matter. I want to start the tail wheel doors next and don't know if I should glass the fuse first. Just finished sanding the exhaust pipe channels fro my custom exhaust. Any more opinions on soft mounting the engine?

Chris

cimara

I made my doors after final sanding but before glassing . dont think it matters unless your going to use what you cut out for the doors jmho
looking great

GaryM

My Feedback: (14)

Chris, I would make my gear doors and fit them before glassing. That way you want ding up your glass finish and you may also need to change the size or shape of the opening. Monokote or ultracoat a large section of the wing. Wax it two to three times then start glassing. Some have made their doors just by laying down a few layers of glass others have actually made a mold then laid up the door skins out of the mold. I choose to do the mold here is a pic. Do not let your glass work lap over the trailing or leading edges as that will make it harder pop off of the wing.

GaryM

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Here is a pic of a skin and then one showing the doors being cut and fitted

Gary

GaryM

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I tried the prevously used style of a long actuation bar, however I could never get the door held shut as tightly as I thought they needed to be. I finally arrived at an arrangement where when closed the acutation bar was in more of a vertical angle to eliminate the piano wire from flexing upward.

Gary

GaryM

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Two More

Gary

cdohaney

Thanks again guys,

I am preparing to lay up the tail doors now....should be fun fun...first time using fiberglass! Gary, awesome setup on your doors....I am going to attempt servo driven doors.

Chris

cdohaney

Update...Tailwheel doors done! Not as easy as the pics and descriptions in this forum make it seem (or maybe it was me!). The 5oz cloth was pretty stubborn to take the shape of the fuse...I had to pin it. But it turned out good, the doors fit and are ready to mount. I guess its best to wait until the fuse is glassed before mounting the doors. The fuse is now ready for a final sanding and glass so its back to the wing...LOTS to do there!!!

I decided to include the tailhook and have sculpted it into the tail. With the recommended Robart tailwheel (which I have) it cannot be made operational so it will have to be static only.

aceisback

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I am getting ready to paint my Giant Corsair and was wondering what brand of Latex Paint that can purchased at Lowes or Menards could be used. I haven't really decided on the paint yet, but I may prefer to get some Latex paint locally as opposed to buying Warbird Colors or other paint from an online supplier.

rt3232

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Aceisback

From what I have read any quality letax paint can be used if thinned correctly try these threads on rcu "Spray painting letax" then try " www.vaillyavation.com" look or read at doc's 1 & 2 on letax house paints


Hope this helps

Cheers Bob T

pappy 883

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Very nice work there Chris. Did you use one, or more layers of 5oz.? Epoxy or polyester ?
I bought a TF GS pretty much built but, it has some real problems. I had to rebuild the flaps and re-due the right aileron .I went with some 5 1/4" robart wheels I already had so I have to re-do the gear doors. The fuse is not right so I'll have to shim one side of the wing saddle 1/4" ! etc. etc.etc.

cdohaney

Hey Joe,

I used 3 layers of 5oz cloth and Z-poxy finishing resin. The cloth was pretty stubborn to follow the tail and I had to pin it until it set.
The doors fit realy good. It would be nice if I could scale myself down and get inside the fuse to mount them! I picked up some offset hinges from www.tamjets.com and am scratching my head as to getting the hinging to set the doors in the same position that I can place them in dry fit. I'm going to experiment with hidden hinge lines for my rudder and elevators this evening and then on to the wing.

Chris

rt3232

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Pappy883

Sound like you have a handfull of things to make right, and repairs of what you have in the pic's look good


Cheers Bob t

rt3232

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Chris

I don't understand why your t/wheel doors are so narrow, The books I have suggest wider doors and not as long, it could be just the way I see it and I sure am not questining your skills just what I see, more pic's might help


Cheers Bob t

cdohaney

Hi Bob,

I cut the fuse back an additional inch to provide some working access installing the tailwheel to accomodate my fat fingers. This extra inch will be filled after installation and the doors will be an inch shorter. You are right, the doors should be wider at the bottom (I think the end by the wheel is close). At the tail the doors should be pretty well the full width of the hook well but I had a pretty rough spot on my fiberglass at the end and to eliminate it I decided to narrow up the doors at the rear.

Chris

pappy 883

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Chris, those look like some pretty good hinges, hope they work out. I don't think there are ANY instruction's on how do that . I think at one point a guy just has to jump in and start fiddling with it to make it work .

Bob T. thanx for the comp. This is a lot easier to work on than the BT Corsair, so i'm hoping to have it in the air by summer.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Well that make it a lot clearer.and I think you are on the right track, but if you are intrested for scaling up a T/F Kit look for a thread by Corsairjock I am not sure about the title somthing like "scale mods for 1/8 T/F " thought I had it in my favorits list [>:]

Bob T

cimara

cdohaney
I used nelsons 5/8 piano hinges for the rear doors worked out well. found it easier than those offset hinges .Just a thought

rt3232

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Pappy 883

I would just suggest one thing the manual has the C/G @ 53/4 behind the L/E at the fuss so I would use 51/4 it takes the snap out just befor tuch down and please keep the thred up on your progress

Cheers Bob T

Corsair Brotherhood 5

PS. I lived in La Mese 1940- 47 when it was an navy retirement town

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

cdohaney

I also used nelson 5/8" hinghes it seem to work out a lot better and easier .
just my $.02 worth


GEORGE
CORSAIR Brotherhood 1