D Bronk

.If only I knew then,what I do now,I definitely would be much closer to finished.My biggest mistake was not clarifying my own directive,of what I wanted to accomplish with my model,prior to getting started on the build.I had no computer and that was a big set back I didn`t do the"homework" first.I initiallybought everything for this plane all at once,using the recommendations on the box, so that I would not run into any snags.BOY was I wrong!! I know that, Now.So with no computer at the time my resources for info were the library,then purchasing some real good books on the topic,for myself. Some books were detail books,some on the pilots,and their squadrons, a lot of photos(rare) and historical facts.ONE book is even from POLAND written in both Polish and English. Real rare photos in that one too.Who would have thought THAT?A very helpfull man is BOB BANKE he is in California. This is the judge I had mentioned to some of you, and I want to invite to RCU to clarify questions some may have in regards to scale competition.I couldn`t recall before ,if I had found him through a magazine or what, but his PH.# number,and address,is in the TOP FLITE manual,both,1:8, and,1:5 scales.If a person is thinking about competing in a scale class,can`t find three view drawings or photos,don`t want to purchase a book,contact HIM his suggestions are free,but his packages are not .Again,a great guy,and "NO" bad attitude there!!!!! He will,from my experiance ,answer any question you have,PROMPTLY and on the spot.Unfortunately he did not have the photos that I wanted, but that does not mean he won`t have yours.HE has a crazy amount of packages,on the Corsair, so just ask him for the plane you want to replicate,and he will tell you immediately,if he has it.
The reason for this thread,is pretty simple really,and relates to both,1:5,and 1:8 sizes.I realize that there are differences.But there is too many similarities to ignore,the fact that the two versions share many qualities, It also appears they the share the same faults as well!!Lets clarify them.If any one has a good 3 view drawing and the 1:5 kit please check your rudder and post your finding in regards to the outline of that part it appears to be incorrect to me,just like the 1:8 size is.Its an easy correction that can be fixed as you go with no real expense just some effort.THIS may not be a concern to all.Just nice to have the option.
I hope to make this thread valuable and a place where a person can look and find information on the good,and the bad of both kits,drawing on past,and current builders, experiances ,mistakes,and,especially on how a person went about correcting them.I DO NOT HAVE THE 1:5,kit.I do now have the manual and very small image of its builders blue-print though.I would like to see persons go to this address down load the manual and plans of the plane you are "not"making so you may see the differences for yourselves.Personally,if I knew this was available before,I would have,had a copy of my 1:8 scale manual printed up,hole punched both sides of all the sheets,put in a small binder,and put my kit supplied manual away,for show time. My book looks as if it has been to war, now.Myself,I want the option,to use my plane in competition,as well as fly!!!!TYPE in TOP FLITE CORSAIR in your main browser and you will find a listing on the side bar saying manuals and plans grab the one you don`t have.THAT way everybody has a visual aid to what the other person has, and is talking about.Plus it`s FREE!!.
I`d like to see this thread be useful to everyone building either version.If you are building your CORSAIR to be BOX stock,or true to scale it dosn`t really matter! YOU decide on if you would like to use an idea for yourself or not.There is really no right and wrong here.Just pick and choose what suits you,and are willing to do for yourself.Remember there is always more than one way to do a job
If you see something that I,or anybody else for that matter, suggests, could be improved on please,explain your better way throughly.DON`t just say no good,and then leave,ELABORATE why!!It`s hard to admitt an error,but if it helps out the next guy,WHY NOT let them use your idea in their model .IF you`ve helped him/her improve their plane.YOU can take back some pride in that some one has incoporated your idea and would not, have had built their plane as well otherwise![8D]. I`ll send this then get on with the show D.B.



.

D Bronk

I`ve reviewed the 1:5 scale manual and before I explain how to make the strut covers functional I`d like to talk with any one who has their retracts as well as the blue-print on hand. I know now that it can never work right with top flites fillets flat's flatus falters screw it to the strut method that they devised,it`s the same problem on the 1:8 .I`ve got a good fix,it works,and dosn `t cost any more than lunch.plus looks good I probably don`t have the only method either, may be more ideas will come of it.The way I see it is, leave them off[:'(],screw them on and off every single time[:@] If I get some input from some one with the retracts.I`ll be able to tell what may need to be done in addition to what I`ve done and the troubles I ran into solving this snag a person can take this idea,use it, improve it whatever.YOU may even want to figure it out for yourself,after all I did.What I did KNOW was my own plane was NOT going to fly with out them.I`m going to send this out so maybe some body can get on to it ,while I get on with some other known problems common with both sizes of planes.I don`t have a camera so all I can do is give descriptions.Lots of my fixes are much easier to do while in the building stage rather than do them when you realize there is a problem and have to re-engineer .D.B

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

use a plastic tye wrap as a hinge that rotates with the gear. hinge the top

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

D. B. I am in progress with a T/F gaint F4u-1 and have been thinking of adding gear doors with a strut door, I have been digging through my old files looking for a simple but reliable system, I would like to stay away from air if at all possible, I have robart mains and tailwheel, with the robart strut how do you hold the lower end of the door, I tried a 1/4 wide tie wrap, but it did not seem stable enough with the engine running so I removed same . would gladly except any of your thoughts


Bob T

P.S. I am not aved scale builder I jus would like it to look real...

D Bronk

The next thing is to do with those wheel houses.The manuals(both planes) shows how to do them not to scale at all,but does the job.Some people go extreme and make functional wheel doors(very cool)[8D],but since my 1:8 is getting scaled out in other ways ,this was one thing i`m not going to do.My next one will be large scale and it WILL have that !I really didn`t like what my manual says about sheeting in the wing,chopping the wheel hole in it and then, do one of two things.The 1:5 is the same.I even looked at the hanger 9 method (plastic insert),for their nearly 1:8 sized ARF,stayed away from that though because,the wheel was not COMPLETELY tucked up in the wing.Not to my liking but possibly OK for some of the 1:8 sport folks.Quick,easy.TRACE,CUT, GLUE,done.NO good for 1:5, too small.I didn`t do the open hole, and fuel proof method for two reasons(1)Epoxy does not get in everywhere and glow fuel will.(2)grass and gravel or mice, whatever,can get in there and eat the plane from inside,out.It dosn `t take long for a little pebble to rattle a hole thru a wing, or a bored mouse to sharpen his teeth on anything, maybe even your servo wire.Not taking a chance myself so I made the wheel house.Having done mine now I can say this an easy way I have done it like this so I KNOW it works. Based on the manuals` way sort of,but a little sooner in build sequence.What I did different,and this will work for either size,is this.BEFORE any sheeting on either side of the wing.Set up your retracts for the length that YOUR plan states with tires on. You`ll be doing this anyways.Screw the retract EXACTLY where it needs to be and you can check your main wing spars notch to see if that needs to be lowered too.What you are looking for is mainly that the tire is laying flat on bottom of those two notched ribs; the wheel socket.I then made the wheel tubs.This is much easier to do now, then to try and piece together,a lot of wood,in a sheeted in,and the confined area of an enclosed wing. What I did was take a soup can for a form.It worked out excellant .IT provided 1/8" clearance all the way around my 3-1/4"tire. If your tire is bigger find a can,or some sort of cylinderical object that gives you that type of clearance too,more if you want ,it`s up to the liking of the builder and,what you feel safe with! Back to the purpose of the can,I made myself 2 seperate sheets of balsa butting the edges just like you would if your were making a sheet for a wing.IT needs to be done like that so you can dampen the sheet and form it around the can,use rubber bands or tape,both will work.Make sure to give lots of extra length and width an inch each way at the least .You`re basicaly making a TUBE, that is to be longer than the widest part of the rib top to bottom and are not to try and be precise at this time.You are just "forming a coil" around that cylinder and if you are building either of these planes. I don`t think I have to tell you the direction of the grain.Once your "coil" is dry and has taken a "set",take your tape or bands off and pull the "form" out.I "jigged"up two of these at the same time on seperate cans just so I didn`t need to wait twice for my coils to"set"up Take the coil to the wing expand it in the ribs, wheel socket to the diameter you need, .JUST make sure your "tube"is cylinder shape and NOT a "cone". Use very small drops of CA glue to TACK it together to the diameter needed; 3 inside,3 outside, on the edge of the each over lap,don`t get carried away with the CA because you`ll end up sanding it off at least on the inside of the tube where you can see it.This next step you can do how you like with a saw,or a razor,but all you need to do is"SLICE" through the wood overlap.Remove the scraps then CA this new butt joint together.You`ll have a perfect joint because they were cut together at same time.You should now have two, nice,round tubes, grab a pencil,and take the parts to the wing set it where it belongs. You need to to make 4 "notches" where the "tub" sits. Mark the position of the ribs on the tub,at all 4 points where its going to sit Now measure from the wing TOP side to the tub edge to get a close starting point for the length of groove you need.What you`re basicaly doing is, making the tub "saddle" the ribs and inter-lock together.Best to NOT be to deep initially Finish the fitting job with a file.I did however use my saw to initially cut both slots, that sat on same rib; at same time.This helps to keep groves in alignment.These grooves need to be deep enough to let the tub come ABOVE the top side of the wing surface,yet also leaving tub hang out below the bottom of wing surface.Take a straight edge and check that both sides hang out and the tub is sitting square in the wing,be certain!!Once your satisfied with the fit. CA the tub in place to the ribs because all you need to do now is take your sanding bar and sand down the "hang out" till your tub is flush with both,top and bottom surfaces of the wing check with ruler or whatever so you don`t create a bulge on the top of the wing later.get it real right, not higher or lower!!! This pays back to you when you sheet top and bottom wing.The tub will be a "PERFECT" fit because you will have glued the tub to the bottom and the top sheeting at the same time and have NO gaps to fill what so ever.Another thing I did at this point was lower the strut down mark out where it meets the tub. GRAB the dremel tool with the drum sander on it and notched a nice spot just deep enough so that the wheel fully contacts the ribs.I only gave enough groove to do the job. Then I joined the wheel house to the main spar with blocks of scrap balsa made it also higher than the spar sanded it down flush as well.Get the drum sander out again join those grooves and thats, that out of the way you will have made a joining channel!!! Take your retracts out.When your sheeting the exterior of the wing be certain to glue to the edges of these new parts too,and sheet right over the tub.I have a roto-zip blade 1/8" round that I use in my dremel to chop out the wheel opening close to the edges. Then I finished it up with the drum sander carefully to make a nice corner,hand sand it if you prefer, whatever suits you, if you are glassing just round the corner very slightly, glass dosn `t like to bend at 90 degrees but holds a round edge pretty good. The tub I made out of 1/16" balsa by the way.I considered 1/32"too, but felt it was maybe just too light of a weight.I must say my wing is partially GLASSED right now due to changing my "scale" objectives on a few things.My fault. Didn`t do enough "homework" before I got started; more on that later no harm or damage just a bit of a delay`s all[:'(].Back to my glassing point I`ve wrapped the glass into the wheel house I`m so confident in it`s strength that,if enough money was wagered, I`d stand on the portion of the wing where the wheelhouse is,take the money,then ask if that person would like me to do that on the other one for the same amount of cash, any TAKERS?????I`m,200 lbs and game if you are!! ANYways --Manually Fix-- Anyways with the strut covers working,I`m very happy and proud, of how things are turning out.IT finished up great!!! ,DAVE B.

D Bronk

hi again BOB i know we were discussing those doors last weekend Its 2 am right now and my computer is really screwy at the moment,and still am with out the camera so tommorow I need you to take one of your retracts and set it on your plan of the strut cover what I want you to look at and explain to me is this .Do the frame rails that screw down to the mounts in the wing extend past the outer edge of the door when it is placed flat on the blue print i had a small issue with mine and want to know if it is the same with your own. If I recall you `ve got the 1:5 scale giant right?I`ll end up having to explain all this in writting so I want to be as accurate in explaining things as I can because this fix should work, with out any problems for both scale sized planes!!NO tie straps involved.What, I want to do is make sure nobody is going to be working themselves in to a problem.Because if I only KNEW THEN, what I knowNOW!!! How far are you along on your wing anyways send your answer here and I`ll be watching for it .I`d like this"FIX" to available to any one who wants it. It`s good for the SPORT guy, like yourself who just likes the "look" of those doors, or the SCALE guy like myself who "has" to have them on,because the plane is going to get judged. Believe me,the only air involved with this set-up, is from the air pushing on them,while you are flying you`r plane,with the WHEELS down!!!!!! I will get in to great detail in regards to this tommorow(today) providing this computer holds up .Please let me Know what your findings are as soon as possible. Was it you that had a cockpit issue? I can`t recall now.... DAVE B.

voyager_663rd

lots of good thought starters in here dave.

One suggestion: break your story up into paragraphs, not one long one. Makes for much easier reading.

Thanks.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

its windy and raining all weekend so the only flying ill do is working on my p-47. Monday im flying down to ft polk La my little girl is marrying a us soldier!!!!!!!!! we will fly a canadair rj!!!

How about a brass sliding bushing that will turn and slide at the same time. There has got to be a way to do this. Im not putting p-40 style holes in the wing. Pappy would roll over in his grave!

D Bronk

HELLO Voyager I agree with you on the comment of length.I hate typing.The camera would be ideal to getting the point across, but,don`t got. So I just have to script my ideas down so that I can paint a clear "Picture," for people.If you have any tips that could relate to these or any other topics that can be used by BOTH, the 1:8, or 1:5 scale, CORSAIR, please do! the idea is to give options for a builder, to chose from.SO if the plane is being decked out , for sport, or both, it is useful to all. .DAVE B.

D Bronk

HI,TIM congrats on your daughter, You may have something there(BUSHING) .MY "FIX" is a working system, and nobody say`s a person can`t "marry"a few more ideas together,and make it even better. At the moment I`m waiting for R T to tell me his findings. THen I`ll explain this so all will understand. the idea is to help the next guy from hitting a snag,and for those who`ld like to improve on what they may currently have.IT`s always easier to incorperate an idea in to the build process but this strut cover can be done to a built plane as well. I won`t say for sure,but maybe an ARF could use it too.I just don`t know that for a fact,thats up to the individual to decide.. PLease keep an EYE out here.This thread is for the CORSAIR but nobody says you can`t grab an IDEA and take it to your own model.

D Bronk

WELL no reply from BOB T. I`ll move on till I get an answer on the 1:5 scale about the retract sitting on the portion of the plans where the gear door is shown.
Why`s my wing is NOT finished yet!!!!
If I only knew; to do my homework sooner and to set the goal of what I wanted to make my CORSAIR into... I knew I wanted some lighting on my F4U-5`s wing tips and the tail.So I thought,I`d lay my wiring while I`m putting in the air lines easier with no sheeting,right.IT`s the smart thing to do.Yep! MUCH easier to get in their to drill holes to run my wires through the ribs.Anways that was done and the wiring done too.I`d been looking through the magazines and knew there was some "light"systems available to buy on the market.Some of them I thought I could modify to do what I wanted.Others were out of the question, I`m not gonna stick a little,watch battery operated gizmo on MY plane!!!!!.Might be okay for some folk though.
WELL got the wiring in,my air lines layed out,wheel houses installed, like I`D explained earlier.Gonna go flaps and Scale hinge everything that needs a hinge, period.NO intention of cheaping out on this build!!SO I got my hinge blocks in front of the trailing edge,positioned,and CA`d them in,as instructed in the manual, and shown in the plans,(will not do it,that way again!I have a better way now ,explanation later will work for either size scale too),pneumatical mechanics had been fitted,hardwares all installed. SO next step sheeting,right on track!!!YEEEEE HAW!!! Lets`go
NOW.I got my paint job planed.It`s gonna be,similar to whats on the 1:8th scale box,found a picture of the actual plane so the decaling would be right .etc.,going to glass her up nothing new to me here. No Prob`s.!!!!!(more on that,later too).
HERE`S my thinking,sheet it in and glass to the wing tips,but not the tips yet because I want those lights in there, and need a little creative enginering there,it would be another process there again. So all I want is,the wing wraped in glass,and those wheel houses finished up too.WELL she got the sheeting,and that job went well,both sides,just like I planed .Located my wheel house holes and opened them up followed the channel I made through to the spar and stopped with dremel there. Everything is going perfectly,and now time to get the strut doors set up..........(I need an answer about that 1:5 retract thing, I`ve been asking about . I`ll explain this portion of the job,once I get a response.NO sooner!!I ran in to a snag here, with my 1:8 scale. I want to address both sizes at the same time.It looks like the same problem for the 1:5,and I also think that the 1:5 can be finished much better in that area,as I`ve done with mine),so Unfortunately back to this later too!!!I can tell you the glass went on perfectly,and,I`m pleased...used Z-poxy and Sig glass, real nice to work with too!
The BIG, hold up is,that I didn`t think my lighting out better.I looked through my detail books and realized I wanted more in the light dept. because the full size had more. I didn`t originally plan this out well enough.The 1:1 size F4U-5 Corsair has:2 wing tip lights,1/wing; 2 formation lights,1/wing on the bottom side;1 tail light,on tail cone;1 light on the spine;1 light on belly;and the last one is, the landing approach light,in the leading edge of the planes left wing.WANT to do it all now.!!If you do the math on the wires,OOOPPSy. So obviously got some wiring to fish through the wing now. No big deal,It`s just something that I should have done before the sheeting,would have been so much easier that way.I`m just trying to head a person off ,before they build themselves past an issue like this,as i had done.IF you`re sport person that is satisfied with a simple light system build it in to the plane as you go,or don`t put any in at all,your choice.JUST figure out what you want to do and stick with it,and research what you need to do.
I`m currently just about through a2month delay with this wing buisness,I`ve been working on it, just not the construction of the air-frame end of it.Most of THAT is pretty much finished;same with the wing, and feathers,also the flaps.Everythings scale hinged and all fitted to the fuse or wing.HINGES aren`t glued yet, want to paint with parts off. I haven`t done the ailerons due to the light issue that I have, and the tips in place.1-2 weeks more and things are going to really come together quickly.IF I only knew....
Probably wondering why so much time wasted?? THERE wasn`t any time wasted at all. Since I didn`t want to use more than 1 light controller system and didn`t know of any that light up that CORSAIR the way it should .DID MY HOMEWORK this time. A little nostalgia,you may,or may not, know is ;that the pilot of the F4U-5 had full control of all the lights on that plane,as to bright,dim,off ,That he could also Key in a message(morse code)for radio silence. Also he had control of which lights could strobed,or not.Once I found that out.I nearly cr-ped my pants, what to do now?OhhhOHH !!!! GOT to think this one out,real good, and NOW!!3 choices.1; no lights at all(no want lights)2; go with ,the three light system(wan`t it all ,not good enough)3; come up with something good, that could be built, and repaired by me plus adjustable so I could have a reasonable ,resembellance to what the full size ,F4U-5 was capable of doing.HMmmmmm?I had to think on this one,a bit. What other electronics,do I want to get for this yet?
So I finally knew now what it had to be:

(A) latest light technology;LED high visibility(can`t look directly in to them,it`s BLINDING)
(B) a good reliable system,that will last a long time.
(C) be realistic.(adustable flash rates,and the ability, to stay on constantly)
(D) be compact ( NO big clunky thing)
(E)very low power consumption.
(F)use no power from the reciever battery
(G) not need a servo to work it
(H)not blow up if I crossed wires or hooked them up backwards.It simply shuts off
(I) I WANT an ON-Board GLOW-DRIVER!!!!!
(j) everything has to work on an 9 volt transistor radio battery.
(K) at least, no less than 1,whole day!!!!!
Well quite an order I got ,EH .I`M pleased to say lots of time later and about a hundred bucks in the garbage can,(FRIED PARTS). I currently have working proto type that does everything I wanted it to,except the glow driver. Thats the easy part and will have no trouble making that portion of the circuit board.its built on a radio shack already made P.C.board about 3x4 inches just ao i can easily spread the parts out to work on,it`s a proto-type after all .MY test has been simple to this point using,4AA batterys hooked into a small harness representing the whole LIGHT SYSTEM.I turned it on with half the lights on constant the other half flashing at various rates some faster some slower. IT ran 4 days 4 nights solid before the 6 volts couldn`t power it any more.can`t wait to try 9 volts now, I need more supplies;have to change a couple resistors first,or I`ll be adding that proto to the rest of them parts in the can.TWO major things to do yet the glow driver has to be designed,but thats not one.I`ve used cheapo components to this point.Iwon`t be testing for vibration either.Gonna kick this cat right over the goal post to meet my NO FAIL criteria.NO MESSING AROUND WITH THE FINAL VERSION going to the best components available.ALL MILITARY STANDARDS parts,its alot more money, but its the best you can Buy too (aircraft grade).The final thing is to make my OWN printed circuit board to get the size shrunk down.It appears I`ll be able to have a BLACK Box the size ofFUTABAS common reciever.GOTTEN SO involved with this I might have to give it a name.
. Oh YEAH,I made the switces cabable of being placed any where,plug and play.BUT iF I only knew then..... more to this latter .maybe I`ve got more than 2 WEEKS but at this point whats a little more time I got what might even add something a little more special yet dash lites, it is still a proto board yet.ALL can say is YAahHOOOOOOOOOOO~!!!!!!!!!!

DAVE B.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Dave
When I put my retract over the plan it fits as drewen, no over hang on my fris one I had to make a socket in the spar to clear the air fitting when the gear was up, i also had to shim the gear brkt's front up about 1/8 to get the gear up against the upper surface

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi again

One of my to do things is to taper the gear mounts so the fwd end is below the sheeting, like I said earlier I shimed my first one and it raised the gear above the surface..I am going to try to post my pic


Bob T

D Bronk

hi BOB are you saying your retracts` do not sitting below the bottom of the wing sheeting? also .I need to know about the retract frame sitting up side down on your blue print on the view of the strut door outline I`ll make the reason for this clearly understandable once I know your findings,I see by your pictures the the plane is flying, so you`ll have take one side or the other out of the wing to do this.I`m sorry the blue- print I have for the 1:5 scale are shrunk down so I can`t do this myself,by measurement ,DAVE B.

Goggles

My Feedback: (4)

I only skimmed through some of text here but if I got this right you're not sure how to set up the strut door. Here's some pics on how I did it. Just hinge the top, embed a peice of brass and make an 'L' out of it, make a ring around the strut, attach the ball of the ball link to the 'L' and strut ring, threaded rod and your done. Adjust rod length for how tight you need it to set into the wing.

If I miss read.....then ignore this post.

D Bronk

hi GOOgles nice system:, The idea here is to give scale CORSAIR builders "options" and it seems you have a good one too.Some may want to use your Idea,it`s up to the individual..What I have to offer is different though, and I would like to be certain it will apply to both scales. ANY one who wishes to share an IDEA may do that here.
thanks DAVE B.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

D.B. The ansure is yes, why I assumed that becouse every thing fit so well that the notches for the beams were the right dept, they were not, on that plane I had no plan for gear doors, so it did not really matter. I will post you another pic so you under stand why I am in the process of building a new one. iIf you are planning to use a T/F cockpit and a full body pilot , you will have to lower the floor about 3/4 to 1" to get him to sit correctly, wich means the servo tray has to move and all of the alignment holes have to be custom done, no big deal its just another task[>:] I forgot the fellows name but those pic sure make sence for strut door, I hope he will share his mains as well

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

wrong pic. hear is the right one. well I uploaded a pic and it semes to have gine to space. will try again later as I am being ask to do a honeydo!! see ya


Bob

D Bronk

OH NO BOB.I`M so SORRY for you! I just "cringed" when I seen THAT photo.I WAS GONNA COMMENT HOW NICE SHE LOOKED WITH FLAPS DOWN!!!Thats terrible!WHAT happened there????ARE YOU repairing it, or going to gut, it for a totally new kit and salvage what you can?? You know, that the second build, is always better,than the first, due to the school of hard knocks`(learning curve),don`t you???Iknow this dosn`t take the pain away but,its the rainbow at the end of STORM.AS hard as it is to swallow something like that,I suppose it`s part of the game, what a shame.SIR. DAVE B.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Dave I Have to tell you a llitle of the back ground, I grew up in San Diego Calif during WW11 about 25 miles east of the navel station called north island, from late 41 to well past the end of the war corsairs flew in in flights of 7 or 14 any time between daylite and dusk, I watched and dreamed, so its been my #1 plane to build I have looked at a lot of kits over the years, and none struck my fancy, untill the T/F came along, so I decided to have a go at it as I had purchased the G62 about 4years earlier with a clue of what I was going to put it in.. So the first kit was a present from my son, and the goodies, were from my wife, this was in dec 03 started building in feb 04 and finished in march of 05 bad weather did not let us try to fly till late april only to fined out I was having radio problems. finaly in may we got first flight great flyer, I had been vary careful to check everything out between flights,with no supprises, on the 7th, flight after fly by at half power up into a slight left climing turn the engine quit cold, full down and some right roll was not enough to save it , you see the results, in the limited research I have done, the first hand comments by real corsair pilots is if the engine quits, GET OUT don't try to save it.. ya I felt bad but when the wife said it ok if you want to build again..every thing seamed to be OK

Bob T

D Bronk

While I`m waiting for a responce on a few thingsI`ll elaborate slightly further on that electrical system( LIGHTS).I`m pretty sure folks have gotten the point of building in there wants, and,needs ahead of time now.As well as how much simplier things can be made for yourself, if you have the BIG PICTURE,finalized in your mind before you start gluing the 1`st pieces of wood together.I know now,what I didn`t then and that will never happen me again,at least,not to that kind of a degree(thats the school of HARD KNOCKS)!!A person really tends to remember "those"kind of lessons.I`ve got more too but thats latter as well.
Anyways in regards to black box.Think I got a name for it now,with all the experimentation,and the various parts involved "FRANKENSTIEN" seems to fit well.ANY comments,maybe a better name..?????I don`t know but this just might be one of those patent and market type of ITEMS??
I`ve also experimented with LEDs` that will be perfect for cock-pit and dashboard use.They are identified as SMT,or SMD,i.e abbreviated for SURFACE MOUNT,Technology- Design either is correct ,it just depends on what the manufacture, decides to use to label the diode as. Needless to say, and I hate to admit.I "BLEW UP" up quite a number of those little tiny things too,there the size of a pin head roughly,so I do mean small.They don`t explode,they only make a hissing sound not very loud at all,and quit working..I`ve over-powered all sorts and sizes to find there extreme breaking point and to find the worst case scenario. There is a good bit of reasoning to the "MADNESS" too,and never any shame in KNOWLEDGE.Why I went "NUTS" like this is really quite simple my airplanes LIFE depends on it!!! These LEDs` are going to be subjected to some "insane amounts"and varying degrees(frequency)of vibrations,so NO filament glass bulbs,if they were to break, a "spark" may, or may not, come in to play here.Since "GLOW FUEL" is involved!!! I am willing to do everything I can to protect my CORSAIR`s well being!!She`ll be my baby,probably gonna sleep in the same room TOO!!Where I`m going with this is,that LEDs` are spark proof so no fear of igniteing any fumes.Even over-powered to the point of failure, they only get warm,no where near the temperature needed to get balsa, to start burning.Like I say,Gotta protect BABY,at any cost!!JUST imagine your plane igniteing in mid-air,then watching it hit the ground in a ball of flames, size would depend on the scale of the plane(bigger plane,bigger ball of flame)[:@][&o] just because of a $0.50 cent cracking and sparking out! probably be spectacular but I`ll leave the pyrotechnics for HOLLYWOOD to do.
Those SMT. will end up working just perfect for back lighting of gages and side panel lites too,they are super brite too.Since I`ve got to chuck my T.F. cock pit kit anyways, and make a scratch-build one,whats another week or two?More homework,got to get the lite colors right on too.BY the way these LED things, can be had, in all sorts of colors too,another plus for them,and the sizes and shapes are mind blowing,there is so many!!!SINCE I know now the importance of the "home work" .DAVE B.

D Bronk

Hey BOB I`m not married yet,(still auditioning for the role),live in the country side 188 acres,and am a 1964 model, just did the math,I better get amove, on, and pick a leading LADY,EH!! I was a pretty young kid when the t.v. series BAA BAA BLACK SHEEP came out.BOYINGTON and THOSE CORSAIRS, left an impression on me that will never go away. SORT of liked "RICEBALL" too. He`s the reason the CORSAIR was designed in the first place.In around about way, if it wasn`t for him, and his country, maybe there would of never been a single CORSAIR built. So thanks a lot RICEBALL!!!!
Good thing you`ve got a great, and understanding wife that will allow you this hobby. So you`d better do all, the CHORES she asks of you,and don`t forget to smile while you do them too , she`ll like that best!
So I take it you`re just starting on #2 then?I`m trying to put down a lot of options ,easy to do in the building stage, that will work for either size model.THAT way a person can choose a sugestion that may be something that they would like to implement into their own build up.Exactly like your cock-pit floor,another example of.... If I only knew.... Maybe you have more examples that you would do differently too, now that you`ve already built and flown one. Please put them in here as well.Nothing like building a better "mouse trap". So what are your findings with the retract to blue- print .I really need to know ...... DAVE B.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Dave asyou stated I am just getting started on #2 and the planed time table is to have it readyin the spring 2006. There is special about bulding, and I will problably dothings different, but it will happen as I go, I wrote a diary on the first one but my hard drive crashed befor I could save it. one thing I can mention now is I used gorilla clue insted of epoxy in my laminates, it is as strong but about half the weight, In the wright up's in RC report. and on file with T/F they said they had to add 2 to 4 lbs. of weight in the nose. So I was looking to save as much weight in the tail group as possible, and I still did not do all I could have. I had to add 16oz right behind the fire wall. This time I will vary carefully add lighting holes in the tail feathers, The rule to follow is one I learned from working with a aircraft structual engineer. The edge of the hole must be no closer to the edge of the material than 3 times the material thickness, for hi stress areas, and 2 times for none stress areas.[>:]One great thing about this kit it builds quick, no mater if you follow the instructions or start in the middle and work both ways. will quit for now have to work inearly am and through monday so cheers have a great 4th, support our troups..

Bob T

D Bronk

gotcha BOB.This retract door hole that I see In the 1:5 size manual look` s really wrong, and I know for a fact you can make it much nicer than your manuals picture actually shows it to be done, what I`ll tell you,is that you can add this in to your build no extra money, a small amount of effort and it`ll end up looking a whole lot nicer over all .It seems you`ll end up with the same identicle complications I encountered but knowing ahead you`ll avoide them.NO doubt!! So I`ll elaborate fully ,I have some other small details to ask you. I`ll P.m. you tommorow,about them and then I`ll start to fill you in so`s to get these workings figured in to your plans of the build sequence. there is a couple oyher things I`ll lay out as to what I`d do different to the wing too.All of them inexpensive too,and i`m sure you do too. We`ll put them all here in this post so a person can decide if there are things they might want to do or not.NOTHING like lots of options so no rush, we`ll get into this further tommorow. DId you read my thing about lights,something for a guy to think about in the stage your at now??FLY for NOW DAVE B.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Well I got off early and in reading your last post I am going to have a local buddy read your posts about lights, at Toledo 2005 he purchased a sound system that sounds like machine guns, and a hi intencity (youl have to over look my spelling) light system and has plans to synk them, Oh well he is a little more scale detailed than me. I think if I can get a digital camera I can post some more pic's that might help.. keep in tuch.


Bob T