thevirginian

docwallace2, here is the throttle linkage of my G-38. On the bottom of the carb you can see the choke linkage.

thevirginian

By the way, I made the throttle arm myself. I was not able to find me something even close that would fit. Today was maiden day for my "Jug". The weather couldn't have been better. Almost no wind and temps in the mid sixties. After a perfect range check I taxied out to the runway and pushed the throttle stick forward. The Jug accelerated down the runway and then veered off to the left. I pulled up and she was airborn. Immediately I noticed the G-38 was not too much motor. It takes a bit to accelerate this monster of an airplane. But once she was up to speed she flew nicely. A few clicks down elevator and she flew hands free. After about ten minutes I came in for a landing. I applied about 15 to 20 degree flaps and she floated graciously down the runway. Touch down! A very soft threepointer. Everybody who was watching my flight congratulated me to a beautiful and great flying airplane. Afte a while I started for my second flight. Again, a very nice flight. As I came in for my second landing I decided to go around as I was a little too high. Just as I turned away to the left the engine quit[]. All I could do was to flare her out over the adjacent field. Frantically I was looking for my gear switch, which, of course, I couldn't find in time. So I landed with the gears down and I saw her nose over after touchdown. Luckily she sufferd only minor damage. One gear was ripped out and the cowl suffered some cracks. She'll be up in the air very soon. Other than that i had a great day flying.

keary

My Feedback: (10)

here are the pix of the broken scissor hinge

Der Goetz

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DAMN!
sorry..I am speechless....

keary

My Feedback: (10)

and the other pix

Also I would really like to see and read how you got the bomb drop set up!!

Keary

go vertical

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looks like the weld is rusted who ever did yours wasn't a very good welder i hope he got better at it before he got to mine

BOLTMAN

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Guys

In regard to the set screw / clamping of the undercarriage leg, I drilled right through the block & leg. then tapped the far side of the block from the side from which the screw is fitted. The head of the screw is recessed into the block with a larger drill. This screw runs from front to back of the unit (hence the need to recess the screw to not foul retract action ). For my leg to rotate the 6-32 screw would have to break!!!!

I set it with just a little toe-in, measured just by eye. Operating off grass this does not pose any problems.

Logged another 3 flights on Sunday bringing total to 8. Now doing some really nice scale take-offs using just over 1/2 throttle on the Moki 1.8, cruising at about 1/3 throttle, only feeding in more power for loops, cuban 8's etc.

Cheers

mirwin

My Feedback: (1)

That looks to my like cheap metal and a bad weld. I think I'll check my gear over real carefully before I maiden it.


Mike

thevirginian

I don't think there is anything wrong with the gears. Like I posted, my gears survived an "auxiliary" landing in a rough field, without a scratch, so to speak. One gear was nearly ripped out of the wing the other was O.K. I was expecting to find bent or broken struds, but luckily nothing like that. I believe they are strong enough to handle most landings, even rougher once.

go vertical

My Feedback: (1)

THEVIRIGINIAN
I AGREE WITH YOU

limitlss

Is anybody else having trouble with the screw in the gear block breaking when tightened?

I broke the screw tightening the block around the gear leg. The gear leg was still loose at the point the screw broke. Now I've gotta get that broken screw out of there.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Yep, it happened to me after the first 10 flights. I thought real hard and then figured that a drill bit may just take hold and screw it out of the other side of the hole.

And guess what? It worked!

Replaced with a hardened 6-32 socket head bolt cut short so it wouldn't interfere with the retraction of the gear.

You'll probably strip the threads before you break this bolt

go vertical

My Feedback: (1)

YEP HAD SAME THING DID SAME THAT PETTIT DID THE SCREWS MUST NOT BE HARDEND

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

They are probably too hard.

We see this all the time with cheap hardware.

It isn't properly annealed.

Bob

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

To everyone using the G-26 to run their P-47. Which prop are you using? Just need to decide which prop, do a ground check and I am ready to go.

R/C Foolish

keary

My Feedback: (10)

Yep!, broke the screw off, replaced, then stripped out soft alum.-drilled out for 8-32nd ,squeezed clamp with channel lock- tightened.
after the twisting on the gear from the scissor hinge problem-stripped out threads again(just the 1 side)replaced with a flathead
10-32nds sheet metal screw- holds good now

Keary

PeteJoMan

My Feedback: (1)

R/C 18-6 Mejzlik pulls real good on my G-26 with Abell muffler.

thevirginian

What?![X(]an 18x6? I maidened mine with an 18x8 Pro-Zinger and it flew just O.K. The T/O was quite long (50-60 ft. min) and the speed was less than scale. So, I decided to switch to an 18x10 after my G-38 is fully broken in.

al3208

Hey everyone,

I got my engine (G38) mounted yesterday. It looks great thanks to a buddie's woodworking expertise (he had to cut away a little of the engine box and make a new box for it.

This is my first gas engine and I need some help. How do I get the stock throttle arm off to replace it with the "regular" one (the white nylon one)? The package gave directions but I couldn't figure it out and I don't want to start taking apart a new gas engine.

Thanks

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

3208 what brand carb. does your G-26 have?

Also would a 50 be too much for this ARF P-47?

THANKS[8D]

thevirginian

al3208;
First you have to unscrew that little screw inside the carb and take the round brass disk out. Remove the snap ring at the end of the throttle shaft. Now you can remove the shaft. Put it in a vise but don't clamp it tight and let the throttle arm rest on the jaws. Take a center punsh and a hammer and tap the shaft right in the center. After a few light taps the arm should come off and the shaft drop down. Put the shaft back in the carb and re-attach the brass disk. Now you can put that white plastic arm on, which, by the way, is drilled too big. If you look at an earlier posting of mine (post 954, page 39) I show my homemade throttle arm for the G-38 carb.

limitlss

Ok, I got the broken screw out. Drilled from the broken side and voila!

I also replaced it with a higher quality screw, used vice grips to clamp the block tight. I also drilled and tapped a 6-32 hole on the outside face of the block to prevent the leg from turning. Hope that works but I suspect I will have to eventually go with the Robart 630 series with a 1/2 inch strut.

I really like the H9 planes but I never seem to be happy with their gear. I can't complain too much about the price though.

al3208

ram -- its the 38 and has the Walbro carb. From what I've been reading, the 50 will take the front end off and leave the tail on the ground

Virginian -- I did see that (I actually read EVERY single post on this thread) and I thought it was great. This nylon one is a little flimsy.

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

OK, I have a question. On any other plane I have with retracts, they say to balance with the gear down. The manual for the P-47 says to balance at 6 1/8" back from the leading edge with the gear RETRACTED. How did everyone else balance theirs and did you do it inverted or right side up?

R/C Foolish

dragoonpvw

My Feedback: (7)

I have never seen a plane with retracts that recommend balancing with gear extended though I am sure there are and could be an occasion when it would work. The right way is upside down with the gear retracted when balancing on a pivot. balancing from a hanger can be done right side up but still with gear up.
Good luck
Paul