tometermas

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

It is where the tube goes into the wings not in the fuselage. No matter what wing I try both are tight when I try and put the metal tube in the wing halfs. How did you sand it out. I have sand paper but nothing that will get inside the wings.

tometermas

Just trying to work in som pic.

Tomas.

tometermas

tometermas

I sanded the alu tube on the outside with fine sand paper. try that,or you gotta have a replacement tube I guess

Tomas.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

I did sand the metal tube a little but it was still tight. I will try again when it get off of work thanks. You hav some great pictures. I am trying to have mine done by next week.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

I am going to use a OS 160 fx with a 18X10 or 18x8 prop. I will probabl have to add a little bit of dead weight since I am using such a light engine.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Rub some talc powder on the tube and spin the tube when putting it in the first time.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

What the h- is talc. LoL I have never heard of that. is is some type of power that have a grit to it?

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

Here you go [8D]

a very soft mineral that is a basic silicate of magnesium, has a soapy feel, and is used especially in making talcum powder

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

ok now i need help with the retracts. I have about burnt them up trying to get them to act right. I have the dubro extra strength arms and the 791 retract servo. the servos got either full open or full closed there is no triming it in the radio or adjusting the travel. How did you all get the retracts to work right

rott

I had the same problem wih mine here, what radio are u using ? and there should ne a way of adjusting the end points on the radio that is what I had to do cus you will need to adjust the flaps too when you get that far

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

I have the jr 7202 it is just like theDX7. It tired adjusting thr travel and that did not work.

dragoonpvw

My Feedback: (7)

The retract servos have no trim. They travel 180 degrees and that is it. The way to set up the retracts is by measuring the distance the pushrod moves, from all the way closed to all the way open. divide it by two and that distance is how far the hole should be from the centre on the servo horn where you connect the pushrod. A little closer to the center and the retracts won't lock. Any further and they will bind. Once that is done. Put your servo horn on so that at the end of its travel it points the same direction as the pushrod. screw it on and set it to the end of its travel. Now adjust your pushrod until it goes into the correct hole. Only minor adjustments of the pushrod should be required from there.
good luck
paul

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

I will try that. Measure fromthe center of the servo arm where it conects to the servo to the hole I need to drill correct. I just want to make sure I undersrtand that part.

dragoonpvw

My Feedback: (7)

Here is a little diagram. The point is that the distance the pushrod goes from lock up to lock down is the distance that the hole in the servo has to move.
good luck
Paul

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Before you posted a response I tried it out and the directions you gave worked great. The movement was 1 inch so I drilled a hole 1/2 inch on the arm from center. Thanks for you picture though. Hopefully people will see this post because you made it a lot easier. Thanks!!!!!

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Well I received the plane on 7-8, and I must say this thing is big. I should have it ready to fly tomorrow, I am just waiting for two y-harnesses from towerhobbies. I wanted to get the match boxes but I decided just to get to reversing y-harnesses. I will post pictures and videos next week.

I have a OS 160 fx on it with a 18x10 prop and jr821 servos all around. I also am going to get a servo slower from hobby lobby for the flaps. Here is a link for the servo slower. [link]http://www.hobby-lobby.com/servo_slow_down_module_2157_prd1.htm?pSearchQueryI d=86243[/link]

Right now it is at 15.4 lbs and that is with everything but the bombs. It has not been balanced yet so that is going to add some more weight.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Here are a few pictures. I do not have the tail red yet because I want to fly it first and then I will change the tail to red covering. SO basically it is just another hangar 9 p-47 .

rott

Looking good dude andhope you have alot of good flights with it too

tometermas

Hi rowdog.
It is looking good,and I hope you love her. She is a big, ruged and forgiveble airplane that you can count on

When are you testflyng her ?[8D]

Tomas.

tometermas

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Hopefully I will fly her on Wednesday. It actually balanced out perfect with the OS 160 fx( with a 1oz spinner hub), I could not believe it. I am waiting on two reversing y-splitters and once I get them i am going to put them on the RX then it will be ready to fly.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Well i was going to fly today but it started raining about a hour after I got off of work. Also I have a reversing y-harness on my flaps and when I am in land mode and I touch my throttle the flaps go back up. I can not figure this out!!!!

sbrackets

Hello gang
Just coming in on this thread for the first time. I purchased my P-47 a couple of months ago and have almost have her finnished.
Using a MVVS 2.15 GT35 gas for the power, and HItec HS 5485 digital servos through out except for the throttle servo.

I too was pulling my hair out this past weekend on the retract servo linkage. But finally figured it out have I walked away then went back after a while to think.
Reading some of your alls post on using the reversing "Y" harnesses. I have heard that JR/Spektrum 2.4 radios don't like extentions with chokes nor reversing "Y"s so I invested in a Servo programmer from HITEC only $28.00 bucks and it works like a dream on Hitec digital servos. I was able to reverse the polarity on one of my evelator servos, and one flap servo with this device. The for my retracts I mixed the gear and AUX2 channel together.

Gents, this servo programmer will slow down your servos if thats what you want to do for your flaps. you might really want to invest in one of these babies, there pretty sweet. It is powered my a 4.8 volt receiver battery and connects to your P/C via a USB cable. Download the PC program from HITEC and then program your servo by a touch of the mouse button.

Here is the link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWCE8&P=7

Hitec makes three different models, I purchased the cheap one, and it works great.

I really didn't mean to keep on about the servo programmer, but I just wanted you all to know about this sweet tool.


Has for my P-47 I just need to order my muffler, and batteries/switches and mount my guns and bombs and I'm pretty much done.

Regards, Jim