wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

The O.D. on the outlet is 5/8" and the ID is 1/2". Good luck on fabbing one. I liked this muffler as I've had good luck with Jtec's in the past, it was inexpensive, and it was as close as anything (minus an inverted pitts style maybe) would have fit in there. The inverted pitts jobs necessitated two exit pipes and seem to always be way more dough. The cost on this one was good...I forget how much, but didn't hurt too bad I recall. It seemed a reasonably priced solution to time and headache for me.

Steiny

Mike,
How have you found the noise level coming from the JTEC muffler? I would think with that flat side right across from the exhaust port it creates a fair bit of noise.

Cheers,

Mark

Redwulf__34

Hi guys,
This is gonna be a dumb question. But if I don't ask I'll be walking around even dumber for a while!

With the engine nearly completely enclosed how do you start it or choke it? If you cant get to the carb for choking or to the glow plug to start it. I'm sure this has got to be simple but........If I dont ask I'll never know. My next plane is a P-51 and it would be great to know how to do it!

Sean

Steiny

As this thread has gone quiet for quite a while I am posting a picture of my custom muffler that I finally finished (only 6 months in the making).
As for Sean's question about choking, you should be leaving room for free air flow into the carb which means you should be able to get your finger on it to choke it. I have a picture of a Platt 109 from a magazine called RC Scale International (Jan/Feb 2001) that shows the bottom side of the cowl, if anyone is interested I think I can scan this and post this picture without violating any laws. If I remember correctly this Platt 109 was built by Pat McCurry who is the master of scale 109's.

Cheers,

Steiny

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

That looks great Steiny. Nice muffler. As I'm on spring break this week, if I can find some nice weather on one of the days here, I'll fire up the engine in mine in this week. I've had a couple of these JTec mufflers of this type now, and, they're not real quiet. In fact the one on my ST was actually kind of noisy. The OS engines seem to run a bit quieter though, and I'm sure I won't be bothered by it. I'm going to throw it on the balancer again tomorrow, and while it's set up, maybe I'll dump the rest of last years fuel in the tank and see if the bird can roar to life. I should be able to fly soon. The weather today is actually very nice here.

Mike

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Got mine final balanced putting the CG 3/4" in front of the plan location. All up weight... 15lbs 12oz. [sm=thumbup.gif] The Ontario Adhesives rocked. Made my plane lighter. Epoxying in the nose weight somewhere tonight.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Any more progress from anyone else here?

Mine approaches flight hopefully next weekend. First taxi tests were today. Taxied great. Engine started on the first flip after priming it 3 flips. Weighs a bit over 16lbs now with all the nose weight in. The muffler is excellent. The prop is probably as noisy as the engine. Need a Xoar prop. With a few smaller preflight things to take care of this week. If weather is good next weekend. I'll have it to the field and see how she does. That huge spinner cone really seems to have some fly wheel effect to it as the engine coasted back to idle much more with it on there than with it off there. Still runs great though, and the spinner seems well balanced which was a bit of a surprise honestly. Again, a better prop will make a difference, but the engine choice seems great from initial tests.

Mike

Redwulf__34

Looks great!!!! I forget what motor you have in there.

Looking forward to hearing about the maiden. Will there be video'ing?

sean

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks Sean. It looked a lot better today with that big spinner cone turning away. It's an OS 1.2 AX in there w/ a JTec single pipe inverted muffler, which, aside from the small teardrop cutout on the front corner of the cowl, fit about as good as I would hope a semi-stock muffler might. I will take the video camera to the field next week, and, weather permitting, this thing will hit the skies. Am fairly stoked, as it seems like it's going to fly quite well. The 1.2 has good power. Certainly enough to rifle the thing through the sky I can tell. Will post my results here. So far, so good.

M.

Steiny

Mike,
Just looking for an update on your 109, did you ever get it airborne? I need a little inspiration in order to get back working on mine.

Steiny

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Hey Steiny,

I've flown an exact total of Zero flights this summer....so, ugh..no. I wish I could supply that motivation. I have encountered some pretty stern pressure to get the thing up from my buddies, who are, justifiably, giving my bird "hangar queen" status. Short of a needle adjustment on the mixture to keep the donkey pulling up front without loading up at idle, she's just sitting there waiting for me to fly her. Frustrating indeed. I may still get it up this summer. I did get a chance to watch my two buddies fly their two perfectly in tandem...like 4 times...this summer, and it just totally rubbed it in...cuz they fly absolutely fantastic.

M.

TomCrump

No pressure coming from Michigan, Mike ! As you know, I have a hangar queen too. LOL

Fly her when the time is right for you. Not before.

Steiny

Mike,
No pressure, know exactly how you feel as I have a Halifax bomber that's been ready for months and still haven't built up the nerve to test fly it.

Cheers,

Steiny

Steiny

For anyone having trouble with getting proper looking wheel bulges on their Platt 109 I too had that problem. I finally broke down and bought a set of Glennis Wheels and they made all the difference in the world, hopefully the picture shows this with the Williams Bros. wheel on the right and the Glennis wheel on the left. The basic difference is that the Glennis wheel is reamed out at the center allowing the whole wheel to be closer to the strut and thusly protruding less through the wing skin, I suppose you could modify the Williams wheel to achieve the same result but I am not sure how you would do that. I cut out the old bulges and am in the process of rebuilding the wing skin and making new fibreglass bulges from a mold of the original I made, by the way the Glennis wheels are awesome.

Cheers,

Steiny

spudandcat

G'day fellas,
I've recently purchased this old girl, which I think is an early Dave Platt 109. It is in fair condition I think for her age.
She seems structurally sound , I've just finished repairing the hor and vert stabs though, they had suffered some
major hangar rash. The bloke I'd got her from didn't know anything about it, a non flyer and had been given or
inherited the old girl.
The retracts are quite interesting, some sort of early electrical setup, with a control unit. They still seem to function
via the manual switch but I can't get them to activate via the RX of my radio (DX7) or an old FM set. I also need a
pinion for one motor. If anyone out there can help identify what they are that would be great.
Thanks all
spud

miklos

My Feedback: (38)

OK.... I have a Platt 109 that I'm am in the process of reconditiong.... I asked a while back what the reccomended CG was per the plans and I ended up with 2 answers. One said 5 3/4" from wing center, the other said 7 1/2" from where wing meets fuselage.....
Can I get a third hopefully correct answer.

Thanks.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

I know several that are flying with the CG 1/2" in front of the plan location. I put mine a full 3/4" in front of the plan location to be safe. Nothing goes down faster and uglier than a 109 with even a hint of a rearward CG.

miklos

My Feedback: (38)

Great Wulf, but I don't have the plan and hence no plan location to start from......[] Need the original plan location.
.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Plans show it at 5 1/2" behind the leading edge at the wing/fuse joint. I put mine at 4 3/4" as I know they fly at 4 7/8" setting and I wanted to take no chances.

miklos

My Feedback: (38)

Great thanks.... that's just what I needed.

jtisch

I recently picked up a Dave Platt bf109 kit and the DP retracts for a decent price. I probably won't start building for a while but i thought I would ask a few things.
The canopy has some stains on it. I've tried soap and water, windex, and an oyy cleaner on it but the stains remain. I am not sure what the stains are as the kit seems unmolested. Is there anything I can use that WON'T damage the canopy to try and remove the stains?
The retract axles are 90 degrees to the strut. The plans show an angle of perhaps 95 degrees between the axle and the strut. Any thoughts?
J

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

J,
all the G models show a 97º axle to strut. The F models have a smaller angle. Can you bend the axle?
PM me if you need some 3 views.



JoseG.

jtisch

Jose.
I have many 3-views, thanks for the offer. Would you know the angle for the F version?
Bending the axle is a route I would prefer not to go down.
BTW, Is that your 109 in the photo? Looks great!

J

jtisch

Jose.
I have many 3-views, thanks for the offer. Would you know the angle for the F version?
Bending the axle is a route I would prefer not to go down.
BTW, Is that your 109 in the photo? Looks great!

J

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Hi J,
sorry for the delay. yes this is my Fliteskin 109 80" wingspan. I will get the F model gear drawing and post it asap.



JG