P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
#1602
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#1604
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I have got to say....Both Hobico and Horrizon have discontinued planes at a rapid pace....
I realize it isn't anything new..... My guess is tha both tower and Horrizon will start sharing the "Limited runs scenario"
This sells the product quick and discontinues it just as fast....
I noticed that Topflite has discontinued the B-24 twin as well.... Surprising, as it was the only game in town....no
other ARF was close to the quality and size... guess there is always ESM..... for there twins.... Problem is, there ARF's are more of a Yellow Aircraft style kit...
were the wings and fuse are built but it is anything but an ARF.... At least Yellow aircraft has unreal quility.... but you pay for it as well..
if I had the time, I would make some molds of this bird .....and scale it out in the mold....
That would be very cool....as this plane has some amazing detail that isn' available in a ARF... wood built up....
I realize it isn't anything new..... My guess is tha both tower and Horrizon will start sharing the "Limited runs scenario"
This sells the product quick and discontinues it just as fast....
I noticed that Topflite has discontinued the B-24 twin as well.... Surprising, as it was the only game in town....no
other ARF was close to the quality and size... guess there is always ESM..... for there twins.... Problem is, there ARF's are more of a Yellow Aircraft style kit...
were the wings and fuse are built but it is anything but an ARF.... At least Yellow aircraft has unreal quility.... but you pay for it as well..
if I had the time, I would make some molds of this bird .....and scale it out in the mold....
That would be very cool....as this plane has some amazing detail that isn' available in a ARF... wood built up....
Last edited by kochj; 10-04-2013 at 06:22 AM.
#1606
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Here is a link to a video of the Hawk: http://youtu.be/QWUW-jFBTKY
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/QWUW-jFBTKY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/QWUW-jFBTKY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
#1610
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OK, try again. (First post here didn't go through.)
After about five weeks of reading, I finally made it to the end of this thread. Lots of good information here, but I hope there are still some watchers, as I have a couple of questions.
I've recently purchased a Hawk new in the box from someone here on RCU, and I am mulling over powerplants. I am leaning strongly towards gas, and I note that a few of you have mentioned using or planning to use a DLE-20. Anyone care to share the details? How about some pictures?
I have also wondered reading this thread, that few if any have mounted an engine vertically, even though it appears there is more room that way. I realize that this poses a cooling problem, but I am not opposed to engineering a proper ducting system to take care of that. Any thoughts?
After about five weeks of reading, I finally made it to the end of this thread. Lots of good information here, but I hope there are still some watchers, as I have a couple of questions.
I've recently purchased a Hawk new in the box from someone here on RCU, and I am mulling over powerplants. I am leaning strongly towards gas, and I note that a few of you have mentioned using or planning to use a DLE-20. Anyone care to share the details? How about some pictures?
I have also wondered reading this thread, that few if any have mounted an engine vertically, even though it appears there is more room that way. I realize that this poses a cooling problem, but I am not opposed to engineering a proper ducting system to take care of that. Any thoughts?
#1611
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I just received my Extra parts for the Hawk....
Tower hobbies had the Fuse and Tail Feathers on Closeout prices ......
I now have a Fuse, Cowl, Bottom wing, and Tail feathers.......For the JIC.....
I may however, create a Mold for the landing gear pants.....Those at a work of Art IMHO......
However.....It seems the Struts could be improved?....... Could make them out of wood, Alum, stainless Steel...?....
I want to mold the top wing and pants befor I take it up and risk loosing it all.....
Tower hobbies had the Fuse and Tail Feathers on Closeout prices ......
I now have a Fuse, Cowl, Bottom wing, and Tail feathers.......For the JIC.....
I may however, create a Mold for the landing gear pants.....Those at a work of Art IMHO......
However.....It seems the Struts could be improved?....... Could make them out of wood, Alum, stainless Steel...?....
I want to mold the top wing and pants befor I take it up and risk loosing it all.....
#1612
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I have also wondered reading this thread, that few if any have mounted an engine vertically, even though it appears there is more room that way. I realize that this poses a cooling problem, but I am not opposed to engineering a proper ducting system to take care of that. Any thoughts?
Also.... having the engine head and ignition poking through the TOP of the cowl, seems counter productive..... (perhaps I read that wrong??)
#1614
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OK, try again. (First post here didn't go through.)
After about five weeks of reading, I finally made it to the end of this thread. Lots of good information here, but I hope there are still some watchers, as I have a couple of questions.
I've recently purchased a Hawk new in the box from someone here on RCU, and I am mulling over powerplants. I am leaning strongly towards gas, and I note that a few of you have mentioned using or planning to use a DLE-20. Anyone care to share the details? How about some pictures?
I have also wondered reading this thread, that few if any have mounted an engine vertically, even though it appears there is more room that way. I realize that this poses a cooling problem, but I am not opposed to engineering a proper ducting system to take care of that. Any thoughts?
After about five weeks of reading, I finally made it to the end of this thread. Lots of good information here, but I hope there are still some watchers, as I have a couple of questions.
I've recently purchased a Hawk new in the box from someone here on RCU, and I am mulling over powerplants. I am leaning strongly towards gas, and I note that a few of you have mentioned using or planning to use a DLE-20. Anyone care to share the details? How about some pictures?
I have also wondered reading this thread, that few if any have mounted an engine vertically, even though it appears there is more room that way. I realize that this poses a cooling problem, but I am not opposed to engineering a proper ducting system to take care of that. Any thoughts?
#1615
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As I said, it appears that there is more room that way. The goal is to avoid cutting any holes in the cowl. I will only cut as a last resort. Obviously, holes in the top of the cowl are completely unacceptable, so if nothing will fit mounted upright without cutting, then going that route that would be out.
#1616
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I have been flying a Hawk with a DLE-20 for several seasons and IMHO it is the perfect match. (Started with a Saito 150 but I am done with glow completely) It is inverted with nothing extra done to the cowl other than clearence for the head. No cooling or any other issues. If you fly it like a real airplane it is more than enough power. If you want it to be an aerobat and hover I am not your guy. I dearly love this airplane! Don't have any pics of the engine install but I will probably have the cowl off doing preseason checks and can take some. Feel free to PM if you have other questions.
I am definitely the scale flyer type; 3-Ding a plane like this is an anathema to me. It appears from what I read that while not comfortably, this model will fly with a .90 four stroke, thus a 30-40cc or more gasser is completely uncalled for. To me, throttle management does not address the extra weight, vibration and dynamic loads that an airframe was not designed for, so I avoid overdoing the engine.
#1618
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Rick....
I hope I didn't offend you.... it wasn't my intention.....
The cowl is huge though.....I had thought about a os 1.60 twin but the heads would poke out the sides and the carb and the old C&H ignition system would have wrecked the front of the cowl....
I wished the OS 1.60 twin would have a EXTENDED crank shaft, as it would make installments a Snap...
I think the dle 20 rear or side mount, would fit w/o cutting in the side of the cowl.
Post some video when you get it all set up....
Justin
I hope I didn't offend you.... it wasn't my intention.....
The cowl is huge though.....I had thought about a os 1.60 twin but the heads would poke out the sides and the carb and the old C&H ignition system would have wrecked the front of the cowl....
I wished the OS 1.60 twin would have a EXTENDED crank shaft, as it would make installments a Snap...
I think the dle 20 rear or side mount, would fit w/o cutting in the side of the cowl.
Post some video when you get it all set up....
Justin
#1619
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Justin,
No offense taken at all. I have been doing online public communications since before these places were even called "bulletin boards", so I'm entirely aware of the difficulty in getting what you really mean across in this type of venue.
Did some digging way back in this thread, and I offer as evidence for my idea the diagram that Wile E. did eight years ago, showing his FPE 1.3 in the nose. I apologize for the mess, but it's the best I can do with the limited tools I have on this computer. I have cut and flipped the 1.3, which is very close in dimensions to the DLE-20. It's rough, but it appears that it could clear the intake duct on the top, which might mean it would fit upright.
Of course, that doesn't address what to do with the exhaust, but if Keleo will still do one of those wonderful scale exhausts... (anyone know if he's flexible recently?)
No offense taken at all. I have been doing online public communications since before these places were even called "bulletin boards", so I'm entirely aware of the difficulty in getting what you really mean across in this type of venue.
Did some digging way back in this thread, and I offer as evidence for my idea the diagram that Wile E. did eight years ago, showing his FPE 1.3 in the nose. I apologize for the mess, but it's the best I can do with the limited tools I have on this computer. I have cut and flipped the 1.3, which is very close in dimensions to the DLE-20. It's rough, but it appears that it could clear the intake duct on the top, which might mean it would fit upright.
Of course, that doesn't address what to do with the exhaust, but if Keleo will still do one of those wonderful scale exhausts... (anyone know if he's flexible recently?)
#1620
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Rick,
If you're thinking the engine will be more reliable in the vertical, I have run all my engines inverted with no problems. Even in the 'old' days when I had glow, I always inverted my OS engine and they ran perfect. If you're worried about hydrolock, I start my gas with the ignition on and the choke closed, after the first 'pop'. I open the choke and she usually starts in a few turns. The ignition on tells me that she's ready to fire and there's little possibility of flooding the engine with this procedure.
Also, if you're worried about kick backs, I, virtually, start all my gas engine by hand and have never had a kick back (not saying it can't happen but if it does, it's extremely rare).
As for engine power: I really like gas, extremely reliable; once set the engine rarely needs adjustment, independent of outside temp and humidity, fuel is cheap and no residue, or very little, to clean off the plane. Very rare to have a plug go bad while flying.
ps: man, this is one old thread. I started this thread many moons ago in Sept of 2005!
If you're thinking the engine will be more reliable in the vertical, I have run all my engines inverted with no problems. Even in the 'old' days when I had glow, I always inverted my OS engine and they ran perfect. If you're worried about hydrolock, I start my gas with the ignition on and the choke closed, after the first 'pop'. I open the choke and she usually starts in a few turns. The ignition on tells me that she's ready to fire and there's little possibility of flooding the engine with this procedure.
Also, if you're worried about kick backs, I, virtually, start all my gas engine by hand and have never had a kick back (not saying it can't happen but if it does, it's extremely rare).
As for engine power: I really like gas, extremely reliable; once set the engine rarely needs adjustment, independent of outside temp and humidity, fuel is cheap and no residue, or very little, to clean off the plane. Very rare to have a plug go bad while flying.
ps: man, this is one old thread. I started this thread many moons ago in Sept of 2005!
Last edited by samparfitt; 04-10-2014 at 01:19 PM.
#1621
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Sam,
None of the above. I am purely looking for the way to get the best fit, ideally with zero non-scale cowl openings. I have mounted engines every which way in the past and the only thing I've noted with any orientation is that four-stroke glows sometimes hydro-lock if you flood them mounted inverted (not too hard to avoid). Otherwise, whatever fits.
I had forgotten who started this thread after five weeks of reading this; welcome back!
None of the above. I am purely looking for the way to get the best fit, ideally with zero non-scale cowl openings. I have mounted engines every which way in the past and the only thing I've noted with any orientation is that four-stroke glows sometimes hydro-lock if you flood them mounted inverted (not too hard to avoid). Otherwise, whatever fits.
I had forgotten who started this thread after five weeks of reading this; welcome back!
#1622
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It appears from what I read that while not comfortably, this model will fly with a .90 four stroke, thus a 30-40cc or more gasser is completely uncalled for. To me, throttle management does not address the extra weight, vibration and dynamic loads that an airframe was not designed for, so I avoid overdoing the engine.
#1623
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Not to start the old argument again, but I need to point out that many, including Dick Pettit, have managed to balance this plane perfectly with a 1.20 four-stroke, with zero extra nose weight. This is a 13-14 lb. plane, when equipped right. Unless you are trying to fly a 13 lb. brick, you don't need a 40cc to power it. And at a 21 oz/sq ft. wing loading, this does not qualify as a brick.