marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Roger that.

In trying to retain the cowl look and integrity, I simply enlarged the stock air channel which is right over the DLE35 head. I think this will do the trick.

Cheers

ToolJoint

Well I am having some engine issues now. Last two flights have resulted in deadstick landings...fortunately made it down with no problems, but time for some diagnostic work. So mine is powered by a Saito 150. I think it is running rich because it smokes like crazy. I have leaned to peak RPM, then back to rich until she drops about 200 RPM, since the engine is still fairly new. The engine is getting a little grouchy on starting as well, and will often die at idle when the glow heat is pulled. Any of you engine guys, big Saito in particular have any advice on needle tuning these babies?

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Adjust the valves.

RickVB

My Feedback: (24)

Has anyone ever checked to see if it makes any difference to angle a baffle like this? That is, making the side of the baffle furthest from the engine head closer to the front of the cowl, and having the baffle slope towards the engine opening? More channeling the air rather than just blocking it...

ToolJoint

Well I got the engine issues sorted out. We have been enjoying some exceptional flying weather, and I have really been enjoying the P6E

Here he is with his stable-mate, the Sopwith Camel

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Right on!

freeflight4ever

My Feedback: (1)

I haven't even came close to reading this whole thread. Have read other threads on the web about this particular giant scale Hawk.

My question is : is this a good airplane for mounting of the OS 1.60FT Gemini ? I have one new in box and thinking that this would be a nice match for the engine.

Any thoughts?

THERCAV8R

My Feedback: (283)

Hi. The 160 twin is way too much engine for the P-6. Mine flies on a 91 four stroke. Also the engine will stick out both sides of the cowl. It will bolt up to the model but you will be flying around at half throttle pat of the time.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Interesting... I fly mine with a DLE 30 and wouldn't want any less power! Flying a half throttle is a very good thing in my opinion.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

I'm running the DLE35RA with both 18x10 or 17x8x3 (similar prop profile as O.S. 1.60FT). The DLE35RA is about 100g heavier than the O.S., and I still required 2.28lbs of lead. Flies great, generous reserve power and still slows down enough for landing on modest length grass strip.

Net - Based on my setup, I think your power (thrust) profile is right on, sound hard to beat, fit is questionable, and you've prolly got 2-3 lbs of ballast to solve.

ToolJoint

Well, I'm no engineer or aerodynamicist, but I have two things to offer on the engine topic.

1. Mine came equiped with a Saito 150. I think this engine is just adequate for scale like flying...decent takeoff roll, good climb and large scale like aerobatics. Like RadfordRC, I wouldn't want any less engine. I always remove the tank vent from the muffler when fueling so I don't fill the muffler with fuel, and I have taken off a couple of times without re-installing the line, and let me tell you...it's not pretty...I'm not the most skilled RC pilot in the word, but it sure took everything I knew to keep from stalling trying to maintain a climb and mushing around the pattern to return for landing.

2. Even when everything is tuned and operating correctly, I would say the 150 would be about minimum at our field elevation of 4290. Like the full size P6E, any acro needs to be preceeded by full throttle and entering a shallow dive to pick up airspeed. There is ALOT of wing area to turn over and creating more drag than a Rupaul convention... so as soon as the nose leaves horizontal on the upline, the airspeed leaks away very fast. Having said that, it will also putt around just fine on half or even 1/3 throttle for normal cruise and very fun and realistic camera passes. With the 150...you cannot count on raw power and a 3D type thrust to weight ratio to get you out of a pinch should you find yourself in a stalled or high alpha condition with little altitude to take to customer service.

I think the 160 Gemini is a very cool engine, and would look and sound great with an exhaust pipe hanging from each side of the cowl. Perhaps not 100% scale, but I think the sound and just flat out cool factor would more than make up for it. If you were flying at our field in the summer time, you definately would not be overpowered...just powerful.

bufordbob

Just starting my Hawk want to electrify it,there was a build on it some years ago but it seems to have disappeared can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks

Bob

Destroyer of Airplanes

My Feedback: (25)

Bob,

I have a Rimfire 1.20 in my Hawk. I carry two 5s 5000mHa batteries. It is more than enough power and will fly for eight minutes with a reserve. The installation couldn't be easier. I can post some photos if you like.

Paul

bufordbob

Pau,
Thank you,
Would love to see the battery solution and any other pictures you have available.

Bob

Destroyer of Airplanes

My Feedback: (25)

Bob,

Here are a few shots. The Rimfire 1.20 is mounted on the company provided motor mount. There are a couple of mode to be made but it is quite simple. Your batteries mount on a plywood tray just screwed to the wood motor box. Reinforce the cowling with at least three layers of glass cloth before you cut your hatch. Use a very fine hand saw and take your time. I added a couple extra cooling holes in the nose.

bufordbob

Paul,
Thanks for the pictures, have some questions: Rimfire 1.20 is a 6s max motor so you are doubling up on the amps? What size prop are you using? I was going to be using a Power 110 which can use up to 9S and a 19x8 prop , I am currently flying the Great Planes PT17 on a Power 160 with 10s 4000mah batteries. Getting reasonable flight times approx 6+ minutes.
What is that large black handled switch on the bottom ? A safety disconnect? What thickness of glass did you use? Did you apply it with epoxy or CA ? Is the hatch on with a screw setup or a magnet setup? I see you are using a CC ICE 100 so you don't need a battery or separate BEC correct? Thanks for everything. You are right about the amount of airplanes(fill up the garage and except for the credit card statement she will never know) LOL.

Bob

freeflight4ever

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you all for the input pertaining to the FT160. I nixed the idea when it was learned that it is wider than the cowl.

So back to square one. I have a new in box OS fs120 S-III that is the recommended engine. Now I read that the FA150 is only adequate.
I cannot get excited about 3D flying for some reason, but don't mind a bit of extra power for those 'oh crap' moments.

Can I get someone's blessing for putting this 120s-III into service on this bird?

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Got the P6-E out for a few flights on an unusually dry December Saturday in the Pacific Northwest!

After dealing with engine cooling challenges, I decided to follow Paul ("Destroyer of Airplanes") lead and add additional cooling mods to cowl. I flew about 45 minutes and the DLE35RA w/Xoar 17x8x3 maintained between 260 - 280 temps (telemetry). Great power, consistent, linear throttle response all day.

Destroyer of Airplanes

My Feedback: (25)

Bob,

On my Rimfire 1.20 I'm driving an APC 18x8E. It's a little over powered, but about 75% throttle the aerobatics are quite scale. You are correct the switch is my safe / armed switch. Notice there is an aileron extension right next to the switch it goes into the receiver. I use it in the shop to test the radio control without having install the flight batteries.

When I glassed the cowl hatch I used three layers of 30 oz cloth. It makes the cowl quite stiff. I used West Systems Epoxy for the resin. I also reinforced the whole front end.

Notice where my ECU hangs I opened the front of the Oil Cooler and put a mesh (small plastic grid ladies weave yarn through) in since the back is open I have full air flow over the ECU.

The whole in the firewall above the motor box is for air flow over the batteries. I have an opening on the bottom of the fuselage just aft of the tail wheel as an exit. I have no cooling problems.

Destroyer of Airplanes

My Feedback: (25)

Bob, that was 3.0 oz glass cloth.

freeflight4ever

My Feedback: (1)

maybe even more corrections!

is the hanging ECU like an ESC in mono wing planes?

Also, is that a whole hole in the firewall or a half of a whole hole for the air to flow?

Destroyer of Airplanes

My Feedback: (25)

Bob,

I said ECU when I meant ESC. The hole in the firewall is just the top half.

bufordbob

Paul,
Thanks very much for all your good info.

Bob

ToolJoint

I say "Do it". I run an old Enya 120 4s on a H9 Sopwith Camel which weighs in slightly less than the hawk, and it has nearly unlimited vertical... which is nice on that thing because he is fairly ornery in most corners of the flight envelope. The P6E is a much more docile airframe with WAYYYY better manners. I think you'll just have to fly the wing, and keep airspeed and attitude at the forefront of your thoughts while flying...in otherwords basic airmanship is paramount, but given that your not into 3D type maneuvers, especially with the Hawk, I bet you already know all this. Go for it.

RickVB

My Feedback: (24)

GaGeeBees pretty much definitively answered this way back at the beginning of this thread...

Reminded of this because I'm going through the thread (again, believe it or not) compiling all the best ideas in preparation for assembly of my own still-in-the-box-after-all-these-years P-6e. If I'm not typically slothful, I will post one final assembly series to this thread. I'm doing one thing that no one else appear to have done here, that is mounting my engine vertically.