RCPILOT78

lowpaz...I found that you have to sand it off......and I repainted the cowl glare shield with flat black spray paint and flat poly-urathane to seal the paint.

Ryon L.

My Feedback: (38)

Another improvement in the model by CMP, the new version has the logo on the firewall and not the cowl.

brxsr

Thank you for your input...sad to say the US 41 (Quadra) is not going to work in the CMP AT-6...the problem is the position(location) of the muffler(in the rear)..one of the reasons the CMP at-6 has such an accurate scale outline compared to other AT-6 models is the accurate outline of the cowling (short) which is accomplished by the recessed (11/2") firewall...the first5 thing I noticed about the CMP AT-6 was the accuracy fo the outline, which could be really increased by building some airfoiled tailfeathers.....thanx again.

Ryon L.

My Feedback: (38)

Sorry for all the pics. I am trying to use this camera and download a bunch so I can remember how the do it.

Ryon L.

My Feedback: (38)

Guess I should practice some more.

Ryon L.

My Feedback: (38)

Hello All,

When they used the Texan for instrument training how was the trainees vision limited? Did they wear a "hood" or was there some sort of "curtain"?

mystar46

Does anyone have any video of this model flying yet?

ScaleRCpilot

My Feedback: (1)

I don't know if this is a CMP but it is close in size.
Check out the lights on the final approach.

Hope it works - just rt clk copy and paste into your address window.
Enjoy!
SR/CP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Y2X_...eature=related

mystar46

Thanks ScaleRCPilot, that's a cool one! Looks like the old .60 size Hangar 9 AT-6 or somethng. A guy in our club had one and it flew very well. I wonder how hard it would be to put landing lights in the CMP plane. Seems like with retracts, flaps, lights, and little cockpit detail this could be made into a half decent scale aircraft.

ScaleRCpilot

My Feedback: (1)

mystar46
I just might install some on mine. After seeing how they look. I plan on doing flaps and serria retracts with the detachable wings with the 3/4 inch dowels.

I may go with a Saito 150 - not sure yet. Also will have a semi detailed cockpit with pilots and may go with a different paint scheme.
SR/CP

mystar46

Cool, I'm thinking of doing a little of that too. I guess the lights would be easier to add before joining the wing sections. I'm thinking this RAM set might be good - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXFFB3&P=

Are you going to do nav. lights too? It looks like some AT-6 models have them right on the wingtips and some have them on top where the tip joins the wing.

I think I'm going with the G26 but not sure yet if I want the magneto or EI version. I'll probably go EI though for easier starting and better throttle response. I'm thinking of using a smoke system too.
I'm sure the Saito 1.50 will be a great motor for you. I have a Saito 2.20 in my 77" Yak54 and it runs very well and has a lot of power.

BenWillis

I picked up a 3/4 inch dowel and it doesnt fit very well. I'm going to try sanding it a bit to see if it helps. One thing Id hate to see happen is when the dowel heats up and expands the wing gets stuck. Seen it before and it aint pretty!

Anyways, I'm still working on my flaps. I'd be done if I weren't flying so much!

Ben in SC

gesada

I would think that the Saito 150 would be too long for the cowl. That's why everyone is using gas engines (they are short). I have a Saito 150 in my P-40 and it is a real gas guzzler. I had to put in a 24 ounce tank and even that doesn't last long.

ScaleRCpilot

My Feedback: (1)

mystar46,
I might do the nav lights but I have not givin it much thought.
Here is a place to check out http://electrodynam.com/rc/index.shtml
They carry ALL kinds of elecrtonic goodies for scale applications. The RAM is priced good!
Might be a good start.

BenWillis,
I picked up a 3/4 dowel as well but have not test fit yet. You are right that would suck for sure if the dowel swelled up in the wing panel. We have high humidity here in south central texas at times. Good Point!

gesada,
Your right I forgot about that short area in there. I might check out the distance in there.
The G26 would for sure be the fuel miser- 4-strokes are better than the 2-strokes on fuel but not as good as the Gas 2-strokes.
SR/CP

RCPILOT78

About the wooden dowl in the wing panal....first of all I inserted the dowel into the aluminum tube and glued it in with Gorila glue ..the dowel is inside the aluminum tube no chance of expansion problems there....the wooden dowel was used to strengthen the aluminum tube no other purpose....I don't understand....are you replaceing the aluminum tube with a wooden dowel.....If so why,, the aluminum tube suppleid with the kit is all you need...for removeable wing sections....I live down here in Florida and the humidity is the worst in the world in the hot summer and I have not had any problems with this setup....

gesada

The Saito 1.50 would be better on fuel if it were on a model that you didn't have to fly fast. But on a warbird you have to fly fast. If you put in a large tank it adds a lot of weight.

BenWillis

The dowel that I bought was 3/4". The aluminum tube in the kit is 1.5 MM which is smaller by about 3/32" that the dowel and wing tube. To get a snug (not tight) fit on the wing tube I need to find a 3/4" aluminum tube since it's more stable than wood. I've been able to find 1/2 and 1" locally so I guess I'll be ordering from aircraftspruce.

Ben in SC

RCPILOT78

Ben thats unusual...the aluminum tube supplied in my kit fit snug into the outer wing panal....all I did was insert a smaller wood dowel I purchased at the local WalMart..I used gorilla glue which expands when hardening and it filled the slight gap between the aluminum tube and the dowel..

Meschmidt

My Feedback: (15)

BEWARE!!!!!!!!! Do not use the supplied control horns on this plane. One of the elevator horns broke off in the air and the stabilizer began to violently flutter and would not stop even at idle. Was able to get it back to the field on a minor crash landing. The flutter caused the stabilizer to come loose on the fuselage and had no up elevator to flare. I count this as a free airplane as it was doing over 100 mph when it happened. The whole tail could have come off! Avoid this possibility and use some heavy duty control horns. I feel stupid because I knew better as this has happened on another plane before. This is too good a flying plane to destroy because of being a dumb cheap ass! Damn me!!! [:@] Paul

jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

Congrats on the save! I am changing mine out now. I wouldn't want to experience the same dilema after I know it is a possibility. Thanks for the heads up.

Exactly where did it break at?

Lars N

I am changing about everything on this model. I'm going to use 3 mm instead of 2 mm, and double servo on the elevator. I have also bought new Dubro hinges, because I dont trust fiberhinges on a model this big.

Ryon L.

My Feedback: (38)

Not very scale. I reversed the "crunch bar", I think it looks better this way.

mystar46

Super job Ryon L.!

That's a very original looking cockpit.
Your retracts look great too.

Ryon L.

My Feedback: (38)

Getting bored of retracts and cockpit, so I started to install BCMA 40cc engine.

ScaleRCpilot

My Feedback: (1)

Ryon L,
I had to check my PT-19 to make sure my pilots were still there - thought maybe they had bailed out for your t-6! lol! yours look real good!

The gear door looks real snug!

Meshmidt- Thanks for the warning! I have had to change them on other models due to similar problems.