glazier808

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Welcome back Brad!

Looks good! I actually cut mine out in thar spot also. For me it is about air movement though as both the battery box and ESC sit in the general location.

My only concern is the structural integrity of the area now.

Big moter twisting away just in frount of the area and all. Your thoughts on it?

Casey

Brad330l

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Haven't gone any where yet Casey Saturday mate.

Yeah, I had thought about the strength and am going to rim the inside with some very nice carbon fiber ribbon I have. Should be even stronger than before. (well maybe not but good and strong anyway)
I will get a few more hours in on the 109 this afternoon and then that will be it before I go away.
Cheers,

Brad

glazier808

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Have a great trip Brad! My 109 is currently in RLM 76...Ill lay some more paint tomorrow, as I start to camouflage.


My Castle Creations HV120 ICE has been returned for replacement through their recall.


Casey

Schummie

Hello Guys,

How much flaps do you use? Please in cm or inch. And do you need down, or up elevator mixed in when using the flaps on landing?

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands.

pimmnz

I tend to use all of the flap, only if because it is in one piece on each side...How much, and which way the model will pitch can only be found by experimentation. You gotta fly it and try it, but generally high wing models will pitch nose down, and low wing nose up, but not always.
Evan, WB #12.

kahloq

Sure...at 3/4 to full throttle, this plane will pitch up when you deploy flaps. However, when flying, I deploy flaps on the downwind leg before the final turn to approach for landing. As such, when deploying the flaps, Im starting to slow down some. I did have to asdd a down elevator mix on the first esm 109 I built for some reason, but not on the 2nd one.

I cant give mm or inch measurement, but my half fklap setting is about 20 degrees and the full flap is close to 45 degrees.

glazier808

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Well I'm in Vienna for the moment due to a family matter. I did bring my laptop to check in here and there in between. I did'nt get the chance to post these before I left...

here's also the pic of the plane....I did'nt really try to be too exact with the camo, just tried to make it look close. I still have abit of blending to do. Although this plane was supposed to be quite used and dirty so perhaps I'll leave abit of uneven to add to the weathering....dunno...


Casey

Schummie

Hello there,

What servo's do you use on the flaps? I'm interested in the torque needed. At the moment I use 72 ounce or 5,2 kg. I'm also having problems programming the flaps in my Radio. I'm using a Futab 10 C. The left servo on channel 6, and the right one on channel 8. I would like two flap settings, 20 and 45 degrees on a switch, for this radio it would be switch C. The manual brings no solution, but that can be my limitation. Maybe anyone with a Futaba 10C can help me out.

regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands

Redback

Hi Eric

Hitec 645MGs work OK for me on flaps.

Can't help with the programming, however my JR Tx was really easy to set up to do what you want


Terry

Schummie

Allan, still there?

I've read all the 70 pages. I learned a lot. Did see the neverending discussion on the CG. I'm building one right now, and hope you will still answer a few questions.
I noticed on your videos, that you seem to have a lot of flap. Did you use 30 mm as in the manual, or is it a bit more?
The manual says I have to offset the engine mount 2,5 mm. Do I add this to the lines that are already on the firewall?
When I use the supplied 4mm thick washer with the spinner, do I have to change the firewall-propwasher distance from 148 mm to 144 mm? I'm asking because in the manual shows also the extra washer on the spinner installation page. I hope you will find the time to anser these questions on this very nice plane of yours. I'm using an OS 120 AX, and my CG is planned at 110 mm to start with. I like my maidens with the CG a bit on the safe site. Last, I read that you like to use expo on your elevator. Can you tell me what percentage you use?

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands

Brad330l

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Schummie, I have just mounted my engine and with my kit the offset lines were marked on the fire wall to center the engine mount over. If you look at yours are the lines off center to the round hole for the fuel tank? If so you are good to go. The kit engine mounts have center line marks on them for height and then you just have to measure half way between the mounts when they are attached to the engine to get the side ways position.
As for the back plate washer it will all depend on the length of your crank thread, prop hub width and method of retaining it all.

Try this,,,, set cowl on fuselage and measure from fire wall to end of cowl with a bit of clearance,,, say 3mm. Now put washer, and spinner backing plate on engine and position it on engine mount at required distance that you measured with 3mm and clamp or hold it while you mark for holes.
The washer is provided to use up crank thread length as the scale spinner is very short and stubby so it needs some clearance for the retaining screw to work. Most guys have had to cut a bit off their cranks to achieve enough room to fit all this in and it looks like I will have to do the same as well even though I machined up a lock nut/spinner retaining nut on my mates lathe.

All a bit confusing? Dont worry, just get all the bits together and make it work as best you can. You are not alone.
If you want I could do a picture by picture explanation of what I have just explained but Im sure you will work it out.

An update on my machine. Tomas has sent my cockpit even with out full payment as I was overseas and I couldnt get emails to complete the postage part of things. Cheers Tomas, thank you for the trust.

Brad

Schummie

Hello Brad,

Thanks very much. Thank you for your offer on pictures, but I already get the picture. In my model the vertical line seems offset already, but the horizontal line looks centered. I'll make a temporary setup, and CA the engine on the mount, and the mount to the firewall. Then I'll look with the cowl on how is comes out.
I use a 120 AX, and I didn't cut the crankshaft. I dremeled 5mm off the adapter nut on the crancshaft side, and another 3mm on the spinner side. In that way I have enough thread turns left on both sides. On the inner side of the spinner I dremeled off another 2 mm. The spinner is thick enough there to do so. Together with the provided distancer (4mm) I reduced 14 mm or 55/100 of an Inch. For this engine this is enough, and keeps me from cutting the propellor shaft. However I have to use only the big propellor nut, and leave the safety nut. The adapter nut must also do this function. I guess every solution is a bit a compromise.
I hope you understand my Dutch Englisch.
Did you use the provided pushrods? I'm thinking about using carbon rods, but still thinking about a good way to attach the threaded metal pushrod ends to the carbon rods. Any suggestions maybe?
Do you use half and full flap settings, and if so, what throws do you use?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Eric I understand you very well.
Good job on sorting it out already.

I have purchased carbon fibre arrow shafts for the push rods but am still to sort any of it out as my cockpit will arrive soon and I will go from there.
As far as the flaps go some one else will have to sort you there as I am still building so not flown yet. I will however be aiming for about 30 to 40 degrees flap.

By the way I love Holland and the people. Been there three times and had a girlfriend there. Dont know any language though.

Cheers,

Brad

hotspot 01

Brad you survived Bali.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, only just mate,,, just starting to get sick now I think.
I'll ring ya tomorow. (if i'm still alive)

Cheers,

Brad

Redback

Mine is finally ready to go!

Got the Laser 150 installed to replace the Thunder Tiger 130. Needed completely different cut outs, so I got a new cowl from Austars Model at a good price.

The Laser has a much shorter crankshaft extension than the TT, so I was able to do without the spacer and still get my spinner to fit. When I tried the TT with the spacer I found that because it is smooth the prop and spinner were moving on the shaft.

So far I have not fitted any of the underwing coolers, plan to get a couple of flights behind me first. May think again about the cockpit kit also.

I ran the Laser in the model last weekend and it seemed to go very well. starting easily by hand. (Had already done some running on a stand).

I am still considering whether to fit an on board glow, I have one in stock if I decide yes! One thing that might drive me this way is that on the laser the plug is at the front, perilously close to the prop! So, if I don't go with the on board an extension may be the way to go.

Probably won't get out this weekend, so maiden is pencilled in for Friday week, when I have a scheduled day off.

Terry

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Way to go Terry, good luck![sm=thumbs_up.gif] I just had to have a cockpit and it should be here very soon. I think it will really finish the model off.
Hey Casey your 109 looks awesome just as is. Amazing what a bit of paint does. Cant wait to see it finished and cant wait to get back and paint mine as well. Just a bit more mottling for me. Hope family business is all good.

Cheers guys,

Brad

Schummie

Hello Redback,

Thank you for the answer on the flap servo's. I'll use them also. The flap programming issue I had with the 3 way switch is solved. I wish you a very succesfull maiden flight. Looking forward to your report.
Did you use the supplied pushrods in your plane?

Regards,

Eric Schumacher, Netherlands

Redback

Hi Eric.

No, I didn't use the supplied pushrods. Used Dave Brown Glass rods for the rudder and elevator and some locking clevises on flaps and ailerons. I also used a pull pull arrangement on the tailwheel, using a combo of supplied bits, a Robart semi scale tailwheel and a mounting plate I kluged up myself.

The 109 has turned out a lot lighter than the ESM FW190s I have had, so it should be easy to fly (or so I tell myself!). Got to get it back into the workshop to fit the cowl and recheck the CG but I am messing around with a foamy to fly in the (10 hectare) garden

Hi Brad, hope you get over the Bali belly soon!

Terry

glazier808

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Thanks Brad....Bali-belly...sounds uh, fun...hope you get well soon...I'm back for a minute due to a wedding this past weekend, but I'm back off to Vienna at the end of the week.

I did get a moment to put the RLM 04 (Yellow) on the cowl, forward fuse, and spinners. I still need to shoot the rudder yet as I rushed to paint abit and did'nt have that masked...oh well another session...I also added abit of foil to the port side wing fillet, then scuffed it up proper lol. I do have trim tabs made up that I have yet to install also....

...I was'nt going to do anything to this one........LOL



it's looking ok I think! A little touch up here and there, then weathering.


I need to call Vicky at getstencils.com tomorrow and get my order in....

Casey

also the "plug" you see is my original install for the safety for the electric motor...I'm actually going to pull this and patch it as I'm relocating the access through the radiator to hide it(I've since opened up the radiator inlet and molded the sides of the intakes abit)I'll be making up a mock radiator much like I did for my Fliteskin 109F...too bad I did'nt think of it BEFORE painting lol...

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

could one of you fine gents measure the wing crosses(top and bottom) and the fuse cross for me please? I'm trying to make it easier for Vicky to size up...also would any of you kno what is the exact scale of this Emil is? I know its close to 1/6th...

Casey

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Casey, scale is actually 1/5.32th.[X(]
Fuselage cross is 166mm long/high with 81mm for the width of the individual cross sections.

Wing upper and lower are the same as each other 191mm across and 73mm for each cross bit.

Now this does not seem to be in proportion but I double checked and it is right. This is for outer measurements only but you can easily get the rest off the diamention charts on the web mate.

Hope this helps and if you need more just,,,,,,,,

Cheers,

Brad

glazier808

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Thanks Brad, that helped me alot thanks....

I'm in Vienna at the moment, but I did get a chance to get some more paint on my plane before I left, alittle touch up, but pretty much done.... next on to decals and some weathering(started that abit too). I made some trim tabs, yet to be installed, and I also made some cannon bulges out of a left over Easter egg lol...

Hopefully my ESC will be back from Castle Creations when I get back in the states also...then I can tidy up everything...

Casey

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

I have been doing a bit of work on the '109' as well. Here is my first ever build video, it is of the rudder and tail wheel set up.
As with most of what I do,,, totally untried or tested.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvIFDmASJcg

Should save a bit of weight in the rear part of the fuselage by doing this right.

Cheers,

Brad.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Righto, moving right along here,,, got some good time in the shed over the week end and achieved a bit.
First off was to mount the throttle servo right on the inside of the firewall. I mixed 30 minute epoxy with powder in it for the mounts so it should be good and strong. It will have a nice short direct arm for the throttle arm.
Next was to make a plate to mount the retract servo and valve to. While I was at it I plumbed up the whole lot, checked for leaks and set the restrictors for the retract speed I wanted. All good there.

Lastly for the afternoon was make a tank frame to get close to the height I wanted for the pick up and the needle valve. Not sure how critical this is on a bigger four stroke. Anyone??
This is now glued in and so the fuel tank is right on the CG. Next is glue in the retract plate and small air tank. This is the only equipment that is behind the first former. This tiny air tank will allow me four cycles of the gear.
I will have to make a new elevator mount plate as the aluminium one I made was not going to work.

Cheers,

Brad