Flybipe

My Feedback: (4)

masteromodels

I reviewed the drawings again and agree that due to the linkage design, perhaps the single servo design is best i.e. lighter and less hassle.

How about the horizontal stab and rudder (for those of you that have gone with a retractable tailwheel) - are you splitting elevator halves with individual servos, or using the split pushrod as shown on the plans. And for the rudder, are you using the split linkage shown, or going with a second servo on the tailwheel tiller for steering like the TF mustang. (I know that the TF mustang also uses two servos for the horizontal - one for each half.) Although this is an oldschool kit, it seems rather old school to use all the split pushrods on a bird this size.

I have been trying to contact Iron Bay for better than three weeks now and have received no response to any of my emails from John - in the past he has been very quick to reply. Has anyone else communicated with them recently?

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

HEY FLYBIPE I THINK I'AM GOING TO USE ONE SERVO AND ONE PUSHROD FOR THE ELEV. WITH THE ELEV. HORN INSIDE SIMILAR TO THE OLD STYLE P-51 . I DO NOT LIKE ALL THOSE SPLIT PUSHRODS. YOU CAN MAKE A PANEL ON THE SIDE UNDER THE STAB TO MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS.THE RUDDER I'LL PROBABY USE ONE SERVO FOR THE RUDDER WITH CABLES AND ONE SERVO FOR THE TAIL WHEEL WITH A Y CONNECTOR, THAT IS HOW I DID THE FIRST ONE AND IT WORKED GOOD. DID YOU TRY THE IRON BAY WEB SITE/ it looks like they have been working on it.



THANKS BOB

Mustang51

My Feedback: (25)

Bob,
Turn your caps lock off. It's considered "YELLING" in internet etiquette.
Besides, it makes for difficult reading when someone types in all caps.

-Dave

Flybipe

My Feedback: (4)

I am planning the pull-pull rudder and a separate servo for tailwheel steering on a Y-cable as you suggested. For the elevator, I have not decided on one or two servos, but am leaning towards two with a Y harness as well.

Good Flying!

Josh P.

Jack Devine

My Feedback: (6)

I have had my Byron Mustang for about 16years and though it's currently not flyable because of a problem that was encountered while setting up to land. My pull/pull rudder cables somehow got tangled in the tail wheel retract mechanism and jamed the rudder to full left deflection and the plane snapped about ten feet off of the ground and hit a pilot safety barrier and severly damaged the wing. I have obtained another wing and will get it repaired someday. The plane had logged well over four hundred flights and it flew well.
It like most of what the other guys here have described flew very scale like but it would do a decent loop and the rolls looked just like the full scale P-51s. This plane will fly again because it was just too much fun watching people react to that big four blade prop circle as it flew down the flight line.

When I first bought this plane I was very concerned about the single servo in the center of the wing operating the ailerons. The linkages were very sloppy and the plane was very slow to react to radio input on the roll axis. The rudder was extreemly effective as were the elevators but the aileron responce was something that made me very uncomfortable especially with this expensive airplane. I decided to eliminate the problem by going to straight short pushrods hooked up to servos centered on the ailerons out toward the wingtips and eliminate the aileron slop by eliminating the torque rods and the very slow responce rate. It was very easy to do and the result was like I had a totally new airplane. I wrote an article on the RCWARBIRDS web site about the conversion and I believe it's still up on the website. It's really worth the conversion and again it is not difficult to do. The plane responded to roll input immediately and very predictably and this airplane became really fun to fly. The sequencing gear doors worked better than I could have imagined and the plane was really clean once the gear was retracted. It still has the original Byron gear in the damaged wing and that same gear will go into the new wing. I wore out three sets of drive belts on the reduction drive and replaced the bearings in the drive once. I also wore out two pair of the Byron tires on the main gear. In my opinion these planes were way ahead of their time. Byron did a great job designing them and the scale features they made available with their option packages made the average modeler capable of producing some really high quality model airplanes. They are not true scale like some guys always point out but fire one up at your field and don't be surprized if you see everyone land to watch it fly. I still have the Byron Corsair and the P-47 Razorback and I don't think I will ever want to sell any of them.

If we could find a way to build and affordably market a more rigid set of prop blades for this reduction unit I think it would open up a whole new approach to finally getting some real efficiency out of the reduction drive. There is no doubt about the appeal of the big Byron scale props for looks. With all of the carbon fiber technology out there which was not around when these planes first hit the market place I would think that with the resurfacing of all of these models there would be a real market for the replacement blades. The Solo Prop line has shown that it is possible to swing a big prop with much improved efficiency and I don't think you will ever match the speed capability of a high reving two blade high pitch prop but you would still put a bunch of really nice models back into the air and some really big smiles on the faces of the pilots lucky enough to have one. I have really enjoyed reading the posts on this thread and I truly believe the Byron planes will be around for many more flying seasons. A word of advice with the pull/pull rudder, Make sure you cycle your tail wheel retract with the rudder in full deflection both left and right so you can make sure there is no possibility of any linkage interference with the retractable tail wheel. Keep working on these beautiful Mustangs guys. You won't be dissappointed.

Jack Devine

v6goose

Hi guys...

Great info here, thanks for sharing.

Would one of you Byro-Drive owners do me a favour and measure the diameter of each of the drive pulleys?

I would very much appreciate it!

Cheers!

Goose

51-D GUY

My Feedback: (4)

V6Goose,


The Prop Pulley is 4-3/4"

Drive Pulley is 1-7/8"

Pulley Grooves are 1/8" Deep

1/4" Center to Center

3/16" in Width at top of " V "

Hope this help's Jason. " 51-D GUY "

v6goose

Excellent!

Thanks my friend...

Goose

v6goose

Hey 51-D Guy...

One more for you if you dont mind...

Center to center distance of the pulleys?

Cheers!

Goose

51-D GUY

My Feedback: (4)

I Thought you might be wanting that one too, LOL

It shows 3-1/2" Center to center on my spare reduction unit

I often thought how it would benefit to machine some new pulleys to run a serpentine belt, it would alow for the Bigger engine's & Carbon fibre blade's that some people have mensioned in the past, to become a practial upgrade for thr Byron reduction unit,

I Know if i new someone with acess to a C.N.C. Machine i would already have a " New set of Pulleys " so to speak,

as far as the carbon blades, why not ! there again , only if i new the right person, It is my belief however, that without a Pulley/Belt Upgrade, bigger engines & stiffer blades are a waste of time & money,

When i mension bigger engines, I mean anything bigger than a Q-42, simply put, the whole thing was'nt originaly designed for anything bigger, although, there have been & still are some sucessfull mod's to the unit,

some even being offered from Byron & Iron Bay, like the Mustang 50, & Fugi 50,



Hope The Above measurement help's , As for the rest , I'm Sure u've heard it all before ! LoL


51-D GUY.

MarvinLoomis

My Feedback: (20)

Any of you Byro drive owners got any spare parts you'd part with? Need a set of prop blades and the prop hub. Mine got cracked from a serious crash! Have been trying to contact Iron Bay for a couple of weeks, and have received no replies as of yet. Have gotten ahold of a partially completed Byron P51 single wing model. Need to get the Byro drive back in operation for the 51. Hope someone can help me out!! Picture of the remaining UNCRASHED plug-in wing model!

kram51

My Feedback: (3)

Have you tried to order parts from Iron Bay? I was able to order a new set of blades from them recently. No problems. I would email them to ask about the hub too. I hope you get her back together soon!

Jack Devine

My Feedback: (6)

Here is a picture of my Byron P-51. It was a great flying single piece wing early version but it flew very well. I'm hoping to rebuild it and get it back to flying status. I had the retractable tail wheel get caught in the rudder linkage and the plane hit one of the pilot safety stations and heavily damaged the wing. Anyone have a one piece wing they would like to sell?

Jack Devine

v6goose

Hi 51-guy...

Thanks a lot for that.

Oh man... yeah I have heard it all in regard to your ideas. I dont own a Byron unit, have been trying to do my own... its a tough piece of engineering for sure.

There seems to be plenty of you Byron owners needing parts, upgrades etc... surely Iron Bay aren't blind to it, but there is some reason its not ramping up.

The actual drive is good mechanically, imagine a power upgrade (lighter as well), CF blades etc... sales would go up again i would think.

Anyways... thanks again... good luck!

Goose

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

hey jack maybe there is a chance you can make your own foam wing cores. there is a bussiness near me that makes foam scupltures for the housing industry they have wire cutting machines to cut foam, i mentiond to them ahile back about cutting me some cores and they said they could all they need is the root core and the tip core and lenght. you would have to do all the internal cuting for the retracts and servo mounts. this may be an option. i might have them cut a extra set for my one piece wing and also my 2 piece wing . that one may create some problems i'll have to work out with the alum. spar but i think it may be worth i try if we cannot get iron bay to respond.


thanks bob

kram51

My Feedback: (3)

http://www.jackdevinemodels.com/

My guess is Jack already knows a little bit about foam wing cores!!! Not a bad idea to perhaps offer replacement wing cores, especially for the one piece wing. Hmmmmm. . . . .[sm=angel_smile.gif]

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

the same could be done for the stab & elevators and even the rudder or you could build up the rudder out of balsa. i might start building some spare parts for my 2 p-51's just in case iron bay does not respond. the wings could be sheeted with 1/64 ply. and glasses or iron on covering. any body else have any ideas?

thanks bob

coat

Hello! i have two sets of blades. E mail me and we can work out a [email protected]. Thanks Jeff Bush

spitmad

Hi Guys

I recently ordered a set of replacement blades from Iron Bay, they are a little stiffer and some say more efficient........I'm yet to try them as I'm still have engine issues.[:@]

I approached Bolly Props here in Australia last year to see if they could copy the blades in Carbon Fibre however they said they would need permission from Byron .....I explaned that Bryon no longer existed but it all came to nothing......[&o]

I email Iron bay asking for permission to produce a set of Carbon blades but they igored the request and they just said that their new blades are now stiffer........well they are a little but no where like a carbon blade.

So I got no further [>:]...........I am going to send them a blade and see if they can copy them and get a price on a set.


Anybody interested ???

Alan

51-D GUY

My Feedback: (4)

Very Nice Jack,


Sorry to hear about the rudder hanging up on final, I Have a pull pull system on the rudder , but my cables are inside tubes all the way back to tail,

I Once had a belt failure in the air, on kinda of a windy day, just as it passed overhead upwind, i heard the noise not knowing the belts had completely failed,

when i made the turn to come back to field " Downwind " that was it , all i could do was keep the wings level & hope for the best,

it went down in grass about 2 feet tall, takeng out the reduction drive shaft, cowling, carb & exhaust stack, both main upper legs & gear doors, also bent the prop shaft in the end of support tube, aswell as a few small fractures in the glass,

It was'nt as bad as it may sound, Mainly just part's replacement, I put in the order to Iron Bay, & a couple of weeks had all the parts plus some stuff i ordered for my byron T-6,

I was looking for a good reason to repaint the mustang anyway, just not as a costly LOL,

Are you looking for just a wing or a comeplete kit for the one piece version ?



here's a before & after pic 51-D GUY

51-D GUY

My Feedback: (4)

Hey VGoose,


Glad to help, are you starting from scrach on your reduction, or is it a combination of Byron & homemade parts ?

I Myself don't know why Iron Bay don't do something about our situation, Surely they Know, maybe if all this War Business

would stop they " Iron Bay " would not have to devote so much of their time for building military drones,

I ordered extra stuff for my planes when i was ordering parts, Sort of making my own parts inventory for my planes

I have three Byron's 2 P-51's only one flying, the other is still in the Boxes, & a Byron T-6



Have you seen one of the Mick Reeves Reduction Units, These are a nice unit, A friend of mine has one for the G-62,

We havent run it yet , it is suposed to swing a 32" X 2 blade prop ! Reduction ratio is 1- 3/4 to 1 Byron's is 2-1/2 to 1

the reeves unit also has a serpintine belt, very strong & beefy,


send some pic's of what your working on ! 51-D GUY.

funfly-RCU

My Feedback: (28)

Anyone know if the Fuji 50 is a direct repayment for the Q42 and four blade prop.

coat

Hello, nice looking plane. Can you tell me what servo you used to run your retract air system on your Byron p51. Can you e-mail me back at jeffp51@ cox.net. Thanks Jeff

v6goose

Hey 51D Guy...

Thanks for the interest. After much engineering I decided not to persue the reduction drive build for this scale, and I say that because I want to reduce a much larger engine (1/4 scale) in a following project to achieve the more scale multi blade prop idea. The Byron unit is pretty good for what it is and does. Add to that I spend the money saved for the CNC mill on a 12Z [:@] I needed one last radio....

You can check out all the hot discussion about this starting from [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6457176/mpage_3/key_/tm.htm]this page[/link] through to the end, it was all good and useful.

The last post on page 5 shows the issues with squeezing a reduced drive into the TF 51, again... 1/5th is just too small. Didn't think I would ever be saying that!

Good luck with your Mustangs!

Goose

Jack Devine

My Feedback: (6)

Jeff: The servo that Byron recommended for the retract operation was built by ACE RC and it was a seven second transit time 180 degree servo. It took seven seconds to go full transit and it operated the UA7 air control valve that operated the gear doors as well as the retracts. Because of it's slow cycle rate it allowed the doors to open the gear to move and the doors to close without any interference. They also recommended the same servo on the flaps which could produce 50 degrees of flaps with a very slow but steady deflection speed. These servos worked flawlessly in both the flap and retract applications. I don't know if ACE still makes them or not but a call to them would get that info quickly.

P-51Guy: I can cut a new wing for my Mustang but I would like tofind a complete one piece Byron wing that has the big wheel wells and the tetract wells all built in. I can build my own but it is a lot less time consuming going with the byron design that already has the retract mounts all built into the foam core. I can easily repair the damage to the fuselage it has some monor cracking in the tail wheel area and up near the back of the canopy. It will need a new paint job too but that is not too difficult either. I have enjoyed this plane from day one and would really like to see her fly again.

Jack Devine