H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
#1601
RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
Do you guys think an Enya 60-lll 7033would have enough power for this plane? What size prop would you run? I do plan to go with a DLE 20 in the future but that will have to wait. I have the Enya so no money out of pocketand was hoping I could use it.
Thanks
Thanks
#1602
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
The Enya 60-III is a good solid .60. I have owned two in the distant past and they were both reliable and powerful for a standard .60. I would recommend for a scale application a 12x6 or 12x7 prop. With the wing area and weight of the Hanger 9 Hellcat the Enya should fly it in a scale manner. Hope this helps.
#1603
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
ORIGINAL: drube
Do you guys think an Enya 60-lll 7033 would have enough power for this plane?
Do you guys think an Enya 60-lll 7033 would have enough power for this plane?
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
Just for the record, I've been flying mine for 5 years with an OS .91FX and a 14x6 and she handles great. Keep in mind I'm at 5500 ft. elevation so the extra power comes in handy. If I ever assemble another I'd go with either the Saito 1.00 or OS 1.10 4 stroke for better sound.
#1609
RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
Lost the Hellcat a couple of weeks ago. On first landing approach engine (gas) wouldn't come down to a low enough idle to land. I thought maybe idle was set to high after engine was warm. Still had gear and flaps down went around and put some "down" on the throttle trim. On final seemed like it helped, idle was lower, then, a couple of feet off the ground went to about 1/2 to 3/4 power by itself. I pulled up and started to go around and pull gear and flaps up and try to sort this out. Then in the climb with gear and flaps still down, engine went to idle by itself, instead of pulling the gear and flaps up and landing straight ahead in the corn stubble, I hit the rudder and did a 180 but with 10 mph tail wind, gear and flaps still down, hit hard on gear and bounced, no power to recover and plane stalled and went in nose first. Destroyed fusilage back to wings. No damage to wings, flaps, CJ gear or mounts. I think engine is ok. Post crash investigation showed tie wrap on fuel line came loose and probably snagged the plastic throttle push rod, flexing it and causing eratic power. "Land straight ahead, never try to turn back to the airport". Yeah. Now I have a winter project. I found another Hanger 9 Hellcat and got a good deal on the new kit. I'll be using the fusilage and cowling. Any body here need the wings? For sale cheap.
#1611
RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
Jtflys'
The wings are new and complete with all the parts, never assembled. $70 plus shipping? That would help me pay for my crash. I'm using the fusilage and tail feathers out of the ARF. Using my old wings as they have very little damage and are already modified for Century Jet gear and have flaps.
The wings are new and complete with all the parts, never assembled. $70 plus shipping? That would help me pay for my crash. I'm using the fusilage and tail feathers out of the ARF. Using my old wings as they have very little damage and are already modified for Century Jet gear and have flaps.
#1612
Senior Member
RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
OK guys. It's unfortunate that our MARKETPLACE section is down at the moment, but RCU's rule of no selling in the forums is still in force.
When the Marketplace is back up, the for sale bits will be edited out.
We're sorry for the inconvenience, but the owners haven't revoked the rules.
When the Marketplace is back up, the for sale bits will be edited out.
We're sorry for the inconvenience, but the owners haven't revoked the rules.
#1613
RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
Got my Hellcat today for my Birthday and can't wait to get started but, will have to wait until after work. I'm still debating on using the Enya or just waiting for the DLE 20 or G20. lol The Enya I have has a Perry carb on it and it getsa bit messy due to the free flowing carb. I'd just hate to coat the inside of the cowl and firewall with fuel. Gee, I don't know...lol Will I weaken the firewall if I drill holes to mount the Enya at 90 deg and then mount theDLE later?
Thanks
Thanks
#1614
Senior Member
RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
ORIGINAL: drube
Will I weaken the firewall if I drill holes to mount the Enya at 90 deg and then mount the DLE later?
Thanks
Will I weaken the firewall if I drill holes to mount the Enya at 90 deg and then mount the DLE later?
Thanks
Whenever you're mounting a 2nd engine, you can always layer the existing firewall with thin AeroPly. It's stronger than the LitePly the Chinese ARF mfgs are using nowadays, and isn't a bad idea for the original build. Just subtract the thickness from the firewall-to-prop measurement when you add the layer.
#1616
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
drube: My H9 Cat is several years old but I suspect they are still built the same way. I put in a magnum 91 rolled to the 9 o'clock position along with a pitts muffler. I used the motor mounts that came with ARF.
Problem: A couple of the new holes put the blind nuts half way on/off the X-shaped support behind the firewall. I ended up filling in the open areas with some ply shaped to fit, then put a piece of flat ply over the area where the blind nuts sit. See the attachments.
If you roll your engine to the 6 o'clock position you may not have the same problem, but check to be sure.
Its a great flying plane!!
Brian
Problem: A couple of the new holes put the blind nuts half way on/off the X-shaped support behind the firewall. I ended up filling in the open areas with some ply shaped to fit, then put a piece of flat ply over the area where the blind nuts sit. See the attachments.
If you roll your engine to the 6 o'clock position you may not have the same problem, but check to be sure.
Its a great flying plane!!
Brian
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
Hello, Gentlemen.
I have read this thread from beginning to end and have gleaned a ton of information from all of you who have decades of experience andthank you for taking the time to post this critical information. I am new to this hobby and unfortunately didn't find this thread until I was already half way into the build. I had to filter through all the posts and have copied and pasted the information I thought to be critical into a Word document. For the guys who are new to building ARFs (like me) this may be of value to you, email me and I will be happy to send you the doc. Please keep in mind there is way more info in the thread than I kept, I basically kept the info I could use either for my application or building skills.
I acquired the Hellcat from someone who was getting out of the hobby and began various builds on her; I wish I could have done it all but the price was right so I can't be choosy. He installed the retracts and the wings were epoxied together by the time I got it, everything else was pretty much incomplete. I started on her and glued the stab on while I waited for my Saito 100 to arrive; it wasn't until the next week I found this thread and read about the stab failures. Because I have very limited experience on covering a plane (like next to none), I opted to remove the covering only to expose the portions of the stab I needed to enforce and recover it with the same color. Ideally I would have opted to change the color of covering to the Midnight Blue like some suggested on this thread, butI didn't want to try to recover the area between the elevator and the stab if I tore off all of the covering - my skillsjust aren't there. So, I left about half an inch along the fuse and rear edge of the stab and recovered the rest of the stab in the same color.
I also opted to put the retracts on a separate battery. I read the pros and cons and although I usually like to keep things simple aligning myself with the "KISS" philosophy, I thought this to be good idea. This is my first plane with retracts and thought the second battery would add a measure of safety.
The belly portion of the wings section didn't align quite right with the fuse - I hope this doesn't deter its handling significantly - see pic.
I know the vent holes for the engine in the cowl are small; this issue is probably the biggest issue I wrestled with. I got emails all over the board from pilots who haven't cut any vent holes at all and others who practically removed the bottom quarter of the cowl. I mean, how much is enough? I may open it up more, I really haven't decided yet and because the weather has been so bad here in Seattle Ihave time before my maiden.
Last, I am a bit confused about obtaining the CG of the plane. Some say with the gear up, some say down... I'm confused. What you see in the photos is the way I have it set up for the CG at 5 1/4" like the manual says with the gear up. Note I built a small box for the retract battery to slide into adjacent to the fuel tank, didn't add more than ounce to the total weight. I'd like the plane to fly like it should; being new to flying (about 8 months) I don't do snap rolls, fancy loops, etc.; I guess you could say I'm conservative. If any of you have input about the CG, please pass it on.
So for my contribution to this thread below are photos of the finished product. I hope this helps someone as inexperienced as me, pictures are worth a thousand words. I'll post when I finally am able to put her up!
Guys, thanks again for your posts and answering my questions.
Regards,
Skyputter
I have read this thread from beginning to end and have gleaned a ton of information from all of you who have decades of experience andthank you for taking the time to post this critical information. I am new to this hobby and unfortunately didn't find this thread until I was already half way into the build. I had to filter through all the posts and have copied and pasted the information I thought to be critical into a Word document. For the guys who are new to building ARFs (like me) this may be of value to you, email me and I will be happy to send you the doc. Please keep in mind there is way more info in the thread than I kept, I basically kept the info I could use either for my application or building skills.
I acquired the Hellcat from someone who was getting out of the hobby and began various builds on her; I wish I could have done it all but the price was right so I can't be choosy. He installed the retracts and the wings were epoxied together by the time I got it, everything else was pretty much incomplete. I started on her and glued the stab on while I waited for my Saito 100 to arrive; it wasn't until the next week I found this thread and read about the stab failures. Because I have very limited experience on covering a plane (like next to none), I opted to remove the covering only to expose the portions of the stab I needed to enforce and recover it with the same color. Ideally I would have opted to change the color of covering to the Midnight Blue like some suggested on this thread, butI didn't want to try to recover the area between the elevator and the stab if I tore off all of the covering - my skillsjust aren't there. So, I left about half an inch along the fuse and rear edge of the stab and recovered the rest of the stab in the same color.
I also opted to put the retracts on a separate battery. I read the pros and cons and although I usually like to keep things simple aligning myself with the "KISS" philosophy, I thought this to be good idea. This is my first plane with retracts and thought the second battery would add a measure of safety.
The belly portion of the wings section didn't align quite right with the fuse - I hope this doesn't deter its handling significantly - see pic.
I know the vent holes for the engine in the cowl are small; this issue is probably the biggest issue I wrestled with. I got emails all over the board from pilots who haven't cut any vent holes at all and others who practically removed the bottom quarter of the cowl. I mean, how much is enough? I may open it up more, I really haven't decided yet and because the weather has been so bad here in Seattle Ihave time before my maiden.
Last, I am a bit confused about obtaining the CG of the plane. Some say with the gear up, some say down... I'm confused. What you see in the photos is the way I have it set up for the CG at 5 1/4" like the manual says with the gear up. Note I built a small box for the retract battery to slide into adjacent to the fuel tank, didn't add more than ounce to the total weight. I'd like the plane to fly like it should; being new to flying (about 8 months) I don't do snap rolls, fancy loops, etc.; I guess you could say I'm conservative. If any of you have input about the CG, please pass it on.
So for my contribution to this thread below are photos of the finished product. I hope this helps someone as inexperienced as me, pictures are worth a thousand words. I'll post when I finally am able to put her up!
Guys, thanks again for your posts and answering my questions.
Regards,
Skyputter
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
This is my first try at adding flaps and it's been real fun. Also installing new gear from SPC and a set of alum wheels. After this is all done I will be glassing with panel lines. It's a good flying bird and easy to haul around so I'm giving it the royal treatment plus I need something to learn some building skills.
JT
JT
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
I finally have finished my Hellcat pylons. As usual, they took longer than I hoped due to a redesign of the internal bits halfway through construction. If I can get the pictures to upload, I will post them... but I have been unsuccessful in doing that lately. RCU seems to not work well for me lately. I hope to get them installed in the next few days.
Edit: wow, the pics worked! Note that the bomb is not sitting on the pylon exactly right- that is because it is set up for my slow stick. It does show what it will look like on the pylon though.
Edit: wow, the pics worked! Note that the bomb is not sitting on the pylon exactly right- that is because it is set up for my slow stick. It does show what it will look like on the pylon though.
#1623
RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
Skyputter your plane looks real good. I'll offer a few answers to some of your questions and a few tips if you have not flown a warbird before. You should balance with the gear up,no fuel in the tank and the plane should be upside down. Better to be a tad nose heavy the first time out than tail heavy if this is your first warbird. For cooling purposes your outlet on the cowl should be 3 times the inlet area to get proper cooling and prevent engine overheating and a possible engine out during flight. Since you have a dummy engine you should remove a cylinder that aligns with the engine cylinder so the air is directed over it. One thing most new pilots have never learned to use is their rudder on take off and landing as well as during flight. I recomend you get an experienced pilot to help with the first flights, but if you go it alone then here are some tips. On take off you will use right rudder to counteract the tourqe of the engine, also throttle up slowly and evenly for better ground control. Hold in some up elevator and let the plane buildup airspeed and then back off on the elevator some. When the tail starts to come up come add some up elevator a little more and she should get airborne, don't jerk it into the air. Keep your rate of climb shallow and leave the gear down for now, if you have an engine out you don't want to worry about putting gear down. Gain some altitude and pull up the gear then work on getting her trimmed out. Landing will require a proper approach maintining enough speed to prevent stalling, this is not a trainer, it needs speed more that you may be used to on landing. If you have flaps try them out before landing as most planes balloon up when the flaps go down and will need some down trim applied. You need to fly the plane right to the ground, don't chop the throttle to early, just keep the nose up a little and when the wheels are almost down you can go to idle and let her settle in on the mains and then the tail will drop and hold in the up elevator to leep it there. Now when your knees stop shaking and you get a drink you should have a big. And then you will never go back to a trainer again. [8D]Good luck and happy landings
#1624
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
ORIGINAL: Firepower R/C
I finally have finished my Hellcat pylons. As usual, they took longer than I hoped due to a redesign of the internal bits halfway through construction. If I can get the pictures to upload, I will post them... but I have been unsuccessful in doing that lately. RCU seems to not work well for me lately. I hope to get them installed in the next few days.
Edit: wow, the pics worked! Note that the bomb is not sitting on the pylon exactly right- that is because it is set up for my slow stick. It does show what it will look like on the pylon though.
I finally have finished my Hellcat pylons. As usual, they took longer than I hoped due to a redesign of the internal bits halfway through construction. If I can get the pictures to upload, I will post them... but I have been unsuccessful in doing that lately. RCU seems to not work well for me lately. I hope to get them installed in the next few days.
Edit: wow, the pics worked! Note that the bomb is not sitting on the pylon exactly right- that is because it is set up for my slow stick. It does show what it will look like on the pylon though.
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RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
I have a question, does a DLE 20 gas motor beam mount without modifying the firewall, or does the carb have be recessed into the fuse? Thanks for any advice.
Mr. Sand
Mr. Sand