Dago Racer13

PJ

Deft is a sanding sealer, two coats seals the wood.Then 3/4 oz glass is put on with Minwax Polycrylic satin. Both can be found at Lowes or Home Depot.
I order the glass in a roll of 10 -20 yards for $45 and it can do 4 H9 planes. The polycrylic will
need 4-5 coats.
Both dry in 20 minutes and with sanding in between a few coats this one plane can be primed in the same day!

It's surprisingly hard an lightweight. The paper that came with the plane weighed around 7 oz. After the plane is glassed
primed and painted the weight is around 11 oz only because I gave it 4 coats of paint. It only needs two. It's cheap, doesn't sag
in the sun or car, almost no hanger rash, harder then any fiberglass fuse and can be done in 3-4 days.

Deft needs to be put on outside it smells bad.There is almost no smell with the Minwax.
I use Rust-oleum professional primer found at Wal-Mart. This
plane needed 3 cans. Some guys use just Deft 5-6 coats.

Dago Racer13

I use 15%.   On my other planes where the exhaust came out I clear coated the area.
I've never had a problem with the gas attacking the finish because it has to get by the
paint first.   I've used Rust-oleum, Krylon,  Dupli-Color, but I always clear coated it
after.   The only time I had a problem is when I use 30% nitro and I didn clear coat.
I've been told that you can even use Lusterkote clearcoat over these paint, but
I stuck with the same clear coat manufactuer as the paint.  
      
                                                         Dave

drube

Hey Dave, what color scheme are you going with?

Dago Racer13

Drube

Navy Blue w/Yellow over front of cowling. F6F-5P #134 USS Bunker Hill VF- 84 or 85 not sure? Mid late 1944-mid 1945.
Beautiful paint job on yours too. I have smaller60-75 size Hurricane, Typhoon, Spitfire and Gypsey moth all with British markings.
I just love the way the Brits painted some of there planes.

Dave

drube

Can't wait to see it finished make sure you post lots of pics! I'd like to have an allblue one also one day.
Thanks for your kind words, mine looks good from 5 feet away..lol especially after the tree got me there's real dents and dings now..lol

Dago Racer13

Drube
Go back to page 53 of this thread. Mine will be the same color and will have panel lines
and be quite faster, but his is Top Gunmaterial. I don't have that much patience.
I like to get it close and get it up in the air. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

drube

Happy New Year! Will yours have the yellow lettering and numbering also? That looks great! It's the blue angel's colors correct?

dawhale

My Feedback: (20)

da Rock, some posts back you said you were going to post a picture of the reinforcing job you did when you cut the bottom of the main spar to install your LADO's. I was unable to find the post / picture. If not already could you share a picture of your mod? I was installing LADO's today and realizied I am going to have to cut the spar.

da Rock

Sorry, I haven't felt like messing with those retracts for awhile now. Gotta run them to get a picture of the spar reinforcement, and didn't feel like setting them up or mess with them until I get out to the field to test them out. So...... I just snapped a picture of one of the reinforcements about halfway done and threw in some PaintShopPro to give you a virtual picture of how they are oriented.

The plate is birch sandwiching carbon fiber. It's as wide as the distance from one rib to the next. The idea is to get as much surface area bonded to the spar as possible so when the room for the retract unit is cut out of the spar, there is adequate support remaining.

Gotta do a bit of touchup on the picture.... be right back with the picture.

Dago Racer13

Drube

Yes the Blue Angels Hellcats did have the yellow lettering.
Since they were still at war in 1944 - 45 it will be white.
I will finish painting it next week andwill have to wait a few more
weeks til I get the lettiering. I have special paperfor ink jet printer
that I'm going to tryto do the the lettering

Dave

dawhale

My Feedback: (20)

da Rock, what thickness of carbon fiber did you use and where did you buy it? Good job on the picture. I understand how you reinforced the spar. Still hate to cut it.

da Rock

Where did I get the CF. lol.... I'm not joking now. It was leftovers from a job to repair and reinforce the FOUNDATION OF MY HOUSE. The main wall of the foundation had cracked horizontally, halfway up, and was being pushed into the basement. A number of the usual techniques were quoted but did not seem really good as a new way that'd been used on a house next door. They epoxy CF strips vertically along the wall. No lie.

The CF comes in rolls. It's about 6" wide and about 1mm thick. I've got about $10,000 worth if you priced it by Hobby Shop values. I got every bit of scrap from the job. It was hilarious to see the crew doing the work. The epoxy came in 2 HUGE tubes that looked like what you find in your LHS. They didn't bother with the spouts, just lopped 'em off and poured both tubes onto scrap cardboard.

My house is repaired exactly like some of the 30%ers at the field.

da Rock

However.............

I would not suggest this reinforcement would require that thickness CF at all.

We really don't need thick CF for most of our model uses. This brace/support really would be more than adequate because of it's relatively large cross section. I've done a number of them in the past with 2oz glass in the sandwich. Did autopsies on a couple of subjects (as available) to see how they bracing had weathered those crashes, and no failure of any kind from the glass sandwiches. Those autopsies came about from other causes. At least one of them was on a really old bird that'd started life with the braces in place.

A number of brace jobs in the past were done with nothing but model ply epoxied in place. We really don't need a lot of the CF we use today.

dawhale

My Feedback: (20)

Sounds good. Thanks

mrsand

Thanks for the info Rock.

I have a friend with the lados on his 60 corsair and he likes them. I don't want to pay that much right now...however I hope to hear something good about the new robart electric's for 60 class planes..we will see!

da Rock

I've got Lados on all my 60 size warbirds and like them too. The only drawback is the 90degree extension on the Corsair, Hellcat and P40. More extension would definitely help the ground handling on the grass fields I fly them from.

I really can't imagine the Robart electrics are going to cost less, but time will tell.

Catalinaflyer

Update on the 26 CC test flight.

We finally go to the field with it yesterday (Sunday here in the US). The engine needed a bit of tweeking on the needles to get it singing a good note but thats to be expected with a new motor. This is the Hobby King 26cc motor which has gotten a lot of bad press from many people on many forums who have never even seen one let alone run one, they make assumptions based on rumors from other people who also have never even seen one. A viscious circle.

Anyway, I never make a judgement till I actually have something in hand. The motor is a little rough around the edges, no support, no manual but otherwise seems fine. The supplied muffler fit completely in the cowl along with the engine and electronics. I did have to add 5 oz of lead to the tail to balance but I will be relocating a sub-c battery pack to the tail at a later day and remove the weights.

Once we finally go it tuned I checked the range and went flying. This thing is a rocket with this motor, for scale like flying 1/3 to 1/2 throttle is plenty. The supplied muffler is loud so low and fast flybys are a rush followed by a climbing victory roll pulling to vertical till the plane becomes a little blue dot in the sky.

Not much else to say, the plane is awesome, the motor is beyond awesome considering the $125 price tag and other than a couple bugs with the landing gear linkage this thing is ready for daily flyer duty.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Hello all,
I have been a spectator of this post for a very long time. I bought my F6F after the original review came out, back when the G20 was the "newest thing." After putting it off for ever I finally decided to put this one together.
After doing some repair to another plane I finally got the "bug" to take on a mod like this, and since the color scheme of this guy was never great, I found a pic of the RAF version and decided to go for it (after I contacted Callie at callie-graphics.com and told her what I needed, she calculated the size and nailed it dead on. She is great and recommend her to anyone, and her prices are also better then any I found).

I have to admit this is my first go at anything like this, both in painting/covering and in simply cutting into a model for more then average beefing up or re-work like most arf's need (so don't tear me up too bad on the critique!) . I have learned a lot, and I have ripped off a lot of great ideas from this forum:

So far I have done the horizontal stab mod, relocated the elev/ruder servos to the back to reduce weight, cut the fire wall to get that full scale look as well as add exit air space for cooling (ala-Hepdog, not as good as his, but it works), relocated the servo tray fwd to hold a 10oz tank closer to CG, shimmed the gear a bit fwd, and of course paint, weather, and seal.

Inspired by 60buick's home-made exhaust, I decided to use two of the "air exits" as actual exhaust ports and reconfigured a G26 muffler I had to put my own spin on this idea. I added another layer of ply to the fire wall, and glassed the inside to beef everything back up. For the gear doors I swiped hellcat 1's idea, but didn't go as far as he did (not That dedicated yet!), then punched a bunch of little holes in the cowl to increase cooling, and am hoping its sufficient as I think it looks better then one giant hole, we will see!

I am at the point where I just mounted the engine and since I took out the push rod tubes, I can reach farther aft and plan on balancing it with two 1000mah 6v A123 packs I made for the receiver and ignition (Rcexl so I dont need a brick of batteries for the Zenaoh unit). I am also using a 750mah 2c lipo for a spectrum high voltage retract servo, so all this should be able to offset the weight of the engine and horribly heave 'Frankenexhaust' unit (along with the relocated servos).

I'll post some more pics when its done, if anyone is still watching anyway.
Thanks everyone for all the great ideas!
Jim

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Looks awesome! I would highly suggest "brazing" all your copper pipes together on your exhaust system. It does get hot enough to melt silver solder and have parts falling away.
( learned that one the hard way)

bignasdy

Nice!

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Man I never would have thought that! Thanks for the info. I ended up swapping out the copper pipe for brass tubing as the weight was getting out of hand. I'm not sure if the tubing will survive the heat of braising, which makes me wonder if they will survive the heat of exhaust? I was hopping the bigger muffler would soak up some of that heat before exiting, but just in case I bent up some sheet metal to go under the tubing so it wasnt on the wood. Wonder if the paint will make it. Perhaps small self tapping screws in the joints just to hold the pieces in place if the solder goes would be worth it. As it is now, the only part that could really get away are the two 45 elbow as the copper you can clearly see against the black are straps screwed into the fuse. Here are some better shots of what Im talking about:[img][/img]

Thanks!

drube

Looks awesome Jim!

drube

Here's my RAF Hellcat. It's been through hell..lol

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Thats cool too! what did you do to yours? (eng, gear, major mods?)

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Nice paint job!

Here's a [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1141201/mpage_99/key_/tm.htm]link[/link] to a similar one on the H9 Corsair (post 2467 onwards).

Regarding engine cooling, do you think the exhaust channels and little holes on the bottom of the cowl will be enough? I would consider baffles and louvres, after all its a gasser ...

Here;s some useful [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11071695/tm.htm]reference material[/link] on gas engine cooling

Nick