Moki 210
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RE: Moki 210
I have a Mark 2.10 with a Slimline inverted pits muffler going on a Pico 1/5 Mustang. Ive been told to use a 20X10 APC, however I found a Airwild NX 20x10 and the blade looks wide. Is this prop too much for this motor? If I put marks in it, I bought it. What is a good break in prop?
#27
RE: Moki 210
Freak, The instructions say to use a 20-8 for break-in and a 20-10 for after.Thats what I used and I flew my TFGS P51 for a season very rich.Then I started leaning it out a little at a time until she was two stroking in all angles of flight.I tell you the truth that I stayed with the G62 in loops straffing runs and all.These motors are great.The DP blue heads are lower compression,so higher nitro.The Mark motors are the same as the Moki.If you run the Moki with 10% or higher you will end up burning it out,plus castor oil is a must.Sinthetic breaks down at higher temps.Tom
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RE: Moki 210
Too bad your friend didn't read the directions that came with the motor-it states quite clearly not to use nitro in the motor.......Oh well, his loss, your gain.
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RE: Moki 210
I am trying to get my Moki 180 run in but cannot get it to run after starting unless I leave the glow clip on. 30-45 seconds after its removed the engine quits. Running straight castor fuel no nitro as manual suggests. Back preasure via the BCM Pitts muffler ( one exhaust exit blocked/or not) makes no difference. Tank centre line checked.
Rich....3 turns out, richer....4 turns, leaner ( as much as I dare) 2.5-3 turns... 2 turns. All makes no difference.
What am I doing wrong???
Rich....3 turns out, richer....4 turns, leaner ( as much as I dare) 2.5-3 turns... 2 turns. All makes no difference.
What am I doing wrong???
#32
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RE: Moki 210
Sounds like you are on the right track, either old gas or the plug. If the gas is old it will start to get water in it. Sounds like the plug though. Try an OS F plug they like them.
#33
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RE: Moki 210
My Daddy always used to tell me, "It's either fuel or ignition-if a motor has both, it should run".
You say you're trying to get it "run in". Do you mean it's a brand new motor and you're just breaking it in? If that's the case, leave the glow ignitor on there until you've run it for about 20-30 minutes run time, 5 minutes per run. It's a ringed motor, you have to break it in slowly, as per the instructions from Moki. A brand new motor most likely will not run on it's own without the ignitor on there. If your motor came with the factory directions, just read the directions, it tells you that in there. If you break it in properly, it will give you many years of service with no problems.
If it's a motor that's already broken in, I'm guessing it's either a fuel delivery problem or a bad plug. Don't even bother inspecting the tubing, just replace with new tubing, must be a minimim of 3/32" ID. 1/8" ID won't hurt.
I'm amazed at how many folks believe that just because it's a new plug, it's a good plug. Take that plug out and replace it with a new OS F. Buy a couple of them just so that you have a spare. I watched a guy spend the whole day at the field chasing an engine problem. I suggested to him that it might be a bad plug, he refused to listen, told me that the plug was brand new, and kept fooling with his low speed idle adjustment. I left him alone after that. Guess what, after several more hours, he finally replaced the plug and the problem went away. Keep the old plug, if it turns out that wasn't the problem, put it back in.
Check the low speed idle adjustment. When they say not to move it very far, that's exactly what they mean. If it's not straight up, try putting it back there-the low speed adjustment is VERY sensitive on these motors. In most cases you don't want to move it more it than one notch in either direction.
There you have it. New plug, new fuel (no more than 5% Nitro, by the way), new fuel tubing, set the low speed idle adjustment wheel at "0", and see what happens. It should run great, these motors are very reliable.
You say you're trying to get it "run in". Do you mean it's a brand new motor and you're just breaking it in? If that's the case, leave the glow ignitor on there until you've run it for about 20-30 minutes run time, 5 minutes per run. It's a ringed motor, you have to break it in slowly, as per the instructions from Moki. A brand new motor most likely will not run on it's own without the ignitor on there. If your motor came with the factory directions, just read the directions, it tells you that in there. If you break it in properly, it will give you many years of service with no problems.
If it's a motor that's already broken in, I'm guessing it's either a fuel delivery problem or a bad plug. Don't even bother inspecting the tubing, just replace with new tubing, must be a minimim of 3/32" ID. 1/8" ID won't hurt.
I'm amazed at how many folks believe that just because it's a new plug, it's a good plug. Take that plug out and replace it with a new OS F. Buy a couple of them just so that you have a spare. I watched a guy spend the whole day at the field chasing an engine problem. I suggested to him that it might be a bad plug, he refused to listen, told me that the plug was brand new, and kept fooling with his low speed idle adjustment. I left him alone after that. Guess what, after several more hours, he finally replaced the plug and the problem went away. Keep the old plug, if it turns out that wasn't the problem, put it back in.
Check the low speed idle adjustment. When they say not to move it very far, that's exactly what they mean. If it's not straight up, try putting it back there-the low speed adjustment is VERY sensitive on these motors. In most cases you don't want to move it more it than one notch in either direction.
There you have it. New plug, new fuel (no more than 5% Nitro, by the way), new fuel tubing, set the low speed idle adjustment wheel at "0", and see what happens. It should run great, these motors are very reliable.
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RE: Moki 210
Guys:
Thinking about getting a Dave Patrick 210 version since the Moki's aren't available in the States but haven't been able to find much about these on RCU. I know that they are modified Moki's with lower compression so can accept nitro, but does anyone have any experience with them? Interested to hear.
Thinking about getting a Dave Patrick 210 version since the Moki's aren't available in the States but haven't been able to find much about these on RCU. I know that they are modified Moki's with lower compression so can accept nitro, but does anyone have any experience with them? Interested to hear.
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RE: Moki 210
Well guys think we sorted my 1.80 Moki. Phew!!
Fresh fuel and a new "OS F" Plug. Primed her up and got her going after a few flips with the needle at 2.5 turns. Ran on the glow clip for 2 mins then removed the clip and upped the throttle she ran rich but kept going. Then as the manual suggests gave her full throttle and immediately slowed the motor by richening the mixture. I got to around 4 turns out she was still running.
On closing the throttle the motor continued to run very rich but reliable. I even got a fast idle out of her even at that really rich setting.
Looks like it was the plug to me because when I replaced the original I started with the cut out problems again.
Thanks for all you help. Won't be long before the Moki is purring on the stand!!! Maybe after 2-3 gallons
Patience is the key I guess!!!
TB
Fresh fuel and a new "OS F" Plug. Primed her up and got her going after a few flips with the needle at 2.5 turns. Ran on the glow clip for 2 mins then removed the clip and upped the throttle she ran rich but kept going. Then as the manual suggests gave her full throttle and immediately slowed the motor by richening the mixture. I got to around 4 turns out she was still running.
On closing the throttle the motor continued to run very rich but reliable. I even got a fast idle out of her even at that really rich setting.
Looks like it was the plug to me because when I replaced the original I started with the cut out problems again.
Thanks for all you help. Won't be long before the Moki is purring on the stand!!! Maybe after 2-3 gallons
Patience is the key I guess!!!
TB
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RE: Moki 210
I have the moki and the Dave Patrick blue head. I like the Patrick even more then the moki. They both run awesome, with a ton of power but the Blue Head can handle a little bit of nitro which is easier to get, it loves 5% with the caster and the actual Blue head makes the engine look really cool.
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RE: Moki 210
I read a lot of post but nothing about the static thrust of the Moki 210; somebody can help me because I need a strong engine to put in a Extra 300L 15 LBS 3D plane
Tigil
Tigil
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RE: Moki 210
If you guys didn't already know Hobby People now sells the MARK/MOKI engine line. 1.35, 1.80, 2.10 and the Gas conversion 1.80 engine
Here is the link
http://www.hobbypeople.net/guru/hps_669398969.asp
Happy flying
Here is the link
http://www.hobbypeople.net/guru/hps_669398969.asp
Happy flying
#42
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RE: Moki 210
These are impressive numbers but no doubts here:have observed our club "Ace" using Moki 210s in his 85" TF glassed and painted P-47s and the engine does the job rather well and with in my observation great reliability, but drinks 0-5% at the rate of 4 flights per gallon of glow fuel so I think he uses a 32flo tank
#44
RE: Moki 210
Tigil.The Moki 210 will run at full throttle with 32 oz for about 12 min.Now I fly mine at war bird days so I use full throttle at rich on the needle valve.I took my time breaking it in[2 seasons]and she was great.Big loops I kept up with G62's.This motor has plenty of power for the TFGS P51.I was shot down last Aug, but I picked up another one this winter and am putting it together now[ARC] and am putting the 210 back in this one.I also have a Moki 180 that is in my H9 P47 Gs and that too fly's VERY well,fast.These are great engines.When I get done with thew P51 I'll send some pics. I am very happy with these engines.Tom
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RE: Moki 210
Good advice propwash, the moki is a great engine if you take your time and break it in right. They have a ton of power and the best low end need valve I have ever used. Because they are build so well with hard materials they take forever to break in. Also remember to use 5% or less fuel with castor in it. They do not like the synthetics. Good luck Tigil. Mike.
#46
RE: Moki 210
Thanks Mike.Another plus for these big Moki's is they fit in the cowl.No carbs or heads sticking out.Just the pipes and I am cutting them down so they will just stick out the bottom of the cowl.
By the way,does anyone know where I can get "decals" for nose art for my P51.I want to put a "Woody Woodpecker" on the nose of the plane.My nick name is woody so I thought it would be ok.Tom
By the way,does anyone know where I can get "decals" for nose art for my P51.I want to put a "Woody Woodpecker" on the nose of the plane.My nick name is woody so I thought it would be ok.Tom
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RE: Moki 210
If you have good artwork give Gary at GetStencils an email. He offers "dry transfers" that should be real good although I have not had the need yet to try them. I will when the plane gets to the table.
Carl
Carl
#49
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RE: Moki 210
ORIGINAL: prop wash
My nick name is woody
My nick name is woody
if your friends can't laugh at you who can. BTW I use these guys for decals, not sure if they can do what you want though.
http://www.kirbysgraphics.com/
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RE: Moki 210
prop wash,
Check out fockewulf37's (alias Ty Brown) build on the site entitled: "Skyshark P-40N Build". He has painted over the sharks teeth on the nose of his Warhawk and he is now painting on a woodpecker's head. I'm not kidding! It looks great and he makes it appear as if a mere mortal could do it. Take a peak.
Al
Check out fockewulf37's (alias Ty Brown) build on the site entitled: "Skyshark P-40N Build". He has painted over the sharks teeth on the nose of his Warhawk and he is now painting on a woodpecker's head. I'm not kidding! It looks great and he makes it appear as if a mere mortal could do it. Take a peak.
Al