jc286006

My Feedback: (3)

i will be cutting a short kit on a cnc wood mill same acuracy as laser cut but cut with a high speed mill bit we can probably fix you up with a set off tif files for them but you would have to have them printed. the 80 inch wingspan is an enlargement of the plans to 103%. stock size is approx 78"

rrudytoo

My Feedback: (27)

I, for one, will be using a two-stroke engine for its compact size and concealability in the cowl. With that in mind, either an extended box or hardwood beams would work for me. I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to fabricate an intermediate bulkhead to serve as a firewall for whichever engine size or type a builder elects to use. This can be done by the builder during the construction of the nose area rather than have the kit cutter make a one-size-fits-all modification to the plans.

The only thing left is to find a fabricator for the spinner and the canopy. The Emil used a small spinner that has given some of the builders of the new KMP 109 clearance problems between the inside of the cone and the prop shaft adaptor. This could prove interesting. []

It will be interesting when these kits start coming together with a group build and eventual flights. Pioneers, one and all!

Al

jc286006

My Feedback: (3)

the plane uses a 30-40cc engine what would that be in inches also it looks like it is also a gas engine i wonder if a super tiger S3000 would be enough for it? i have 2 of these that i was going to put into a ziroli B25 that i was planning on building in the future but might use them in the 109 instead. i have a vac-forming machine if someone has time to do a canopy plug im too busy to make one right now!!!!!!! between fulltime day job,kit cutting business,takin care of elderly parents,and a new girlfriend i dont even have time to build anymore but when i get retired in 10 years i`ll be busy until they put me into the grave building planes and crashin them LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill Jennings

My Feedback: (85)

G'Day James.
You best give the new girlfriend a rest for a while mate until you get these new kits done. I would be interested in a canopy if some of you boys have the skil and time to build a plug.

Regards.
Bill.

rrudytoo

My Feedback: (27)

If you take the engine size in cc's and multiply that by .06, it will give the engine size in cubic inches. For example, a 50cc engine translates into 3.0 cubic inches: 50cc X .06 = 3.0 cu.in. Hence, a 30cc engine will be 1.80 cu. in. and and 40cc engine will be 2.4 cu. in. As the print states a gasoline engine size requirement, the use of a 2 or 4-stroke engine of similar power will be smaller in displacement. Compare the output of any 30cc gas engine to a Moki 1.80 and you'll readily see the disparity of power in favor of the Moki. For the size and performance, I'll take the 2-stroke and hide it in the cowl...........and wish I had the economy and sound of the gas engine. [&o] When it comes to scale outline, I'll take form over function any day. But, hey. That's just me.

Al

prop buster - inactive

Has any one heard any thing about the RCV Engine that rumor has it that would be larger than their current RCV 120 SP That might be another engine choice. Bob

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Bob, that would indeed be a good choice if they had a large enough engine. Those have much more torque and can turn a larger prop. I have many gas engines though so I will stick to that. I much prefer gas to glow. (No flames please, just a personal choice) It will be a couple of months before I actually get to this plane, I have a 1/4 scale Fokker DVIII that needs the wing finished and everything covered so that is first. Right now I am looking for retracts and such for the 109. What are the ideas/concerns on that? Looks like you can mount pretty much whatever you want (with a little alteration).

David

jc286006

My Feedback: (3)

hi guys
got the g done just waiting for the enlarged plans from attwooddrow to arrive so i can check scaling got the E about half way redrawn looks to me like this designer used all he could from the G when he drew the E that makes thing a whole lot faster and easier once scaling is done i`ll lay out the cut templates and post a price for each version and size. i wished i could slack off on the girlfriend but she wont leave me alone LOL!! guess it could be worse i could be loooking for a girlfriend! also anyone that hasnt had these plans printed i have a wide format printer i can print a set for you cheaper than kinkos i just have to figure out how to enlarge on it to the 103% never tried that before.

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

jc286006, I plan on building a Waco UBF-2, 1/5 or 1/4 scale in the future after I find the plans. Would you please PM me with contact info.

Regards


bob

jmodguy

My Feedback: (4)

Where can one get a copy of the Emil plans? I have been wnating one since I picked up Aero Detail #1. Not asking for a freebie, just a place to get the plans. I'm interested in a group build as well. Need a reason to get deep into this hobby again!

Thanks
Jeff Stultz

prop buster - inactive

I have been looking at the new electric retracts by lago they are to power the retract units by electric instead of air, sounds interesting any one else checking it out. If I get more information I ll let you know. Bob

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Bob, I looked into it also. You still use standard air retracts but disconnect the air cylander (sp?). The electric actuators replace the air system. This is not a perfectly acturate portrayal of how it works but is a ball park. The system does need its own battery, but overall it is lighter than the Air system and you get more...er...retracts per charge than does the air. Its about 100.00 for a set. I am also thinking about using these in the 109.

TomCrump

David, Are you saying that a battery weighs less than a pair of cylinders?

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

according to thier advertisment, its not just the air tanks, it sthe whole system.

Bill Jennings

My Feedback: (85)

G'Day Jeff.
I have a set that I would be willing to send over. email me.

Regards.
Bill.

prop buster - inactive

Well I am sure that is the way to go at least for me, lighter at least a bit,but seems to be much easier to install and the scale retraction would be a very nice plus. Is every one as anxious to start this as I am,although I have a 1/6 scale 190 on the board. Bob

jc286006

My Feedback: (3)

hi guys can someone post a link to those retracts i went to the site that comes up when the cursors on retracts but i have yet to find any retracts there. got the E about half way redrawn when the enlarged plans from attwood get here it wont be long and ill be ready to take your orders.

prop buster - inactive

Try this hope it works for you http://lado-tech.com/index.htm

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

They dont sell retracts, only the actuators to use with retracts. Instead of using an air system (tank, lines, couplers, servo, etc) you would replace the air cylinder of each retract unit (robarts, sierra, etc) with one of these actuators. About 100.00 per retract.

jc286006

My Feedback: (3)

hi guys got the G is done and enlarged to 103% im just waiting on the plans to arrive from attwooddrow to make sure everything is correct. anyone wanting the stock size plans that havent had them printed already, i can print them for cost, $16 plus shipping this covers my paper and ink costs so im not profitting any on them, if anyone needs them printed. once i figure out how to enlarge them i can start printing the larger ones too. i have the E redrawn and enlarged to the 103% also ,all that is left is get an enlarged set of plans printed at kinkos for sizing check. the only thing im having trouble with is the materials no where have i found what the wing ribs,fuse formers are made of im assuming plywood.if anyone can translate please confirm or correct me in this thinking!
James

rrudytoo

My Feedback: (27)

James,

A quick look at the plans and I'd have to say the ribs are all plywood. I'm going by the rib patterns where the leading edge and spars are noted with "texture" where the ribs are not. Also noted on both the fuselage bulkheads and the ribs are the thicknesses of those items in millimeters. ie: 3mm (call it 1/8"), 4mm (about 5/32"), etc. Items made of balsa tend to be identified as such. The German word for balsa is "balsa". At least that was easy!

If I may suggest, make the ribs and bulkheads from light ply to keep the weight down. I'd prefer to see the ribs from the root ribs to the wheel well done in aircraft ply but that may be getting a bit demanding. Chime in guys. What are your thoughts on this?

Thank you for your efforts here, James. This will be a fun project to see come together. As for me, the Emil in the enlarged format looks pretty good.

Al

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

I plan on cutting most of my parts from 1/8" (yep 3mm) balsa, or in the Deutsch....Balsa . Where I need the strength for retracts, wing roots, (firewall 1/4 inch ply) etc, I will use 1/8" ply. The plans only actually mention plywood where there are a couple of access panels. To give you some ideas of what it says; any time you see text in a dotted box, this means that you would print a decal using these words (Decal placement). Zuformen means "you make, or you form" usually used in conjunction with balsa. On the wing plan it says "Je Nach Einsatzstruktur Holmverkastung vorsehen. This means "allow for shear webs". Also on the wing plans, it shows the wing rib section with the servo, Plastik oder Sperrholz, this means make this access panel out of plastic or plywood.Motorachse bei 2 Zug is "two degrees right incidence for the motor."Anhlebmuttern is "Blind Nuts"There is a little scale detail that attaches to the aileron, the notation says "adjust and glue to sheeting" I am guessing just make it look right and then glue it on. The instructions for this plane are very spotty at best. But it isnt that hard to figure out if you have built a few kits or done any scratch building. By the way, where it mentions BalkenKreuz, that is talking about the placement of the insignia (Crosses). Farbon means color, just what color the full scale had where. Weiss, Rot, Swarze are colors "White, Red, Black" If you have any other questions just ask and I will post them here. My Deutsch might not be perfect so dont hesitate to call me on any of these. I am pretty sure of them though. Guten Morgen mein Herr!

jc286006

My Feedback: (3)

i think that the way this plane is designed the builder/designer used ply for the wing ribs and the fuse formers the use of the lightening cut outs would make parts made of balsa weak IMO unless you laminated 2 pieces together with the grain running 90degrees to each other. i use baltic birch plywood 1/8 is 3 ply ,1/4 is 5 ply, there is very little weight difference in the 1/8 birch ply versus 1/8 lite ply, plus the 1/8 lite ply i have bought from lonestar balsa and other suppliers has measured only 3/32 in the past so i went to the 1/8 baltic birch plywood. i will have to modify the spar and longeron slots to fit readily available widths of balsa and poplar that you can get at the LHS or from the balsa supplier of your choice.
sperrholz = plywood ?
on the firewall a ziroli design uses a lamination of 3-1/4 ply parts this is for a 3-7 cid engine,do you guys think 1/4 will be enough for a 3.0 cid engine or should i supply 3- 1/8 firewals to make a 3/8 laminated firewll or 2-1/4 to make it 1/2 inch thick? YOU all know your going to opt to put the largest engine in that will fit LOL!!!

prop buster - inactive

James, At least for me I think three pieces of 3/8 plywood would be enough laminated togather but if after looking at plans and engine choice you could always add to it if you felt it necessary bob

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Wieght = High wing loading. I would not cut the balsa as radically as the ribs have been on the plans, with balsa there would be no need to lighten them that much. I have chatted with several people that build WWII birds, they are using balsa ribs, formers etc where they can. Remember, this wing has four spars uses webing and is sheeted balsa and then glassed. I have several planes with balsa ribs, spars, sheeted etc and they are very strong, and very light. But, like my preference for gas over glow, it is just my opinion. If anyone had the chance to see them, a guy named Rich Egelsten (sorry if I murdered your name there) had two ME109's at the Muncie Warbirds event this year. An "F" and a "G". Both were under 20lb (the G was 17lb). He is using a Brisson 2.3 and both go like stink but slow down like a feather for landing. He built these from blown up Platt plans to 86inch. He is using the Meister canopy and making other parts himself. A great guy and awesome reference for the 109.

Yes, Sperrholz=Plywood. Sperr, used in congunction with other words to show built up, or co joined. Holz, meaning wood.

On your Baltic Birch 1/8 inch, great stuff. I use it instead of light ply as the wieght difference is very small for the amount that is used and the BB is way stronger. I buy it in 4x8 and 5x5 sheets for around 7.00 each. (remember I own a cabinet shop, boy that helps out with my addiction)

I had planned on using two 1/4 ply doubled up or one 1/2 ply for the firewall but I can get the 3/8 ply also, that sounds like a good idea
The Baltic Birch 1/4 ply is 5 layer and the 1/2 is 9 layer, much stronger than standard plywoods.