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TF P-40 Build Thread

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Old 11-07-2006, 12:41 AM
  #26  
Peter_OZ
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

anyone know where to get one of those kline / cline regulator pumps from?
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Old 11-07-2006, 05:49 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Cline regulators are draw type regulators not a pump. they use muffler pressure. [link]http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/[/link]
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Old 11-10-2006, 09:00 PM
  #28  
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I haven't had time for updates, but I have been busy and I have been taking pictures along the way.

First... I put the Saito 125 on a test stand. The following video of it's first run requires some explaining. My wife has to drive to work. I can walk to work. It gets dark too early these days, so I can't go to the field after work. Being too anxious, I couldn't wait until the weekend to try out the engine. So the next day, I came home for lunch and this is what I did...

[link=http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=065e000ffe8a4f03eeb3]Breaking in a Saito 125[/link]

Condo rules say we can't have a propane BBQ, so in addition to disturbing the peace I'm probably breaking other rules also. Nobody came out of their balconies to watch or complain, and the security guard below didn't have a clue.

Josh
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Old 11-10-2006, 09:43 PM
  #29  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Josh,
mat e one word of advice if I may. Weigh that stand down with something quite heavy, an engine that size could quite easily tip the stand over.

cheers
Peter
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Old 11-10-2006, 10:45 PM
  #30  
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Peter... Safety comes first. It may have been annoying to the neighbors, but I made sure it was safe for all. That bench is very securly tied down with nylon rope to the post just behind it. The rope loops the two leg and the top of the horse 4 times each. It may be hard to see in the video, but it there. Trust me, I gave it a lot of good hard yanks before I fired up the engine.

Progress pictures:

1) I preshaped the wheel well liners and fitted them in the wing before sheeing. I also laid down the servo extensions and the retracts tubes.

Also, notice that I cut off the servo rails between W1 and W2. These were supposed to hold the original center aileron servo and bomb drop servo. Since I'm not using either, I cut off the rails to save weight. I also cut off the Forward Center Braces between the spar and LE. These held the dihedral on W1 before the wing was joined, but after the dihedral braces were epoxed in when I joined the wing, I can't see them adding any structural strength or support, so I cut them out (also to save weight).

2) This shows how I strengthed W8 near the trailing edge. This is where the TE breaks because of the different angles of the flap LE and the aileron LE. This is a weak spot in the design.

3) Bottom sheeing finished. I cut out the wheel wells now so that I can permanently glue the wheel well liners from the inside before I do the top sheeting.

Josh
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Old 11-10-2006, 11:04 PM
  #31  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Josh,


you also need to brace on the opposite side right in the middle of pic.

Another weight saving idea would be to dremel out some holes in the ribs if you are able, it is amazing how much you can save by doing this.

excellent work so far, keep it up.
cheers
Peter
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Old 11-10-2006, 11:27 PM
  #32  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Now just for fun, I hooked up the tank and the valve to the retracts...

[link=http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=909020c28b26ca3a13cb]Sierra 60-size rotating retracts[/link]

These are the Sierra retracts that give us an alternative to the Robart 615's. Notice how the wheels are already fully rotated after about 30-35 degrees of retraction (way before they are fully retracted). It's not scale operation, but their robustness is worth that sacrifice.

Josh
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Old 11-10-2006, 11:33 PM
  #33  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

you chose well, the robarts gave no end of trouble!
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Old 11-10-2006, 11:35 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

feels good to see it coming to life doesn't it?
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Old 11-11-2006, 06:18 AM
  #35  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

nice job , what regulator are you useing to slow the gear down ?
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Old 11-11-2006, 08:43 AM
  #36  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

LDM... This is Robarts red Variable Rate Control Valve ([link=http://www.robart.com/air_systems/valves.aspx]Part # 167VR[/link]). I like the gear going slow up. But I need to speed it up going down.

Josh
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Old 11-11-2006, 09:06 AM
  #37  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

thanks Josh
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Old 11-11-2006, 01:33 PM
  #38  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread


ORIGINAL: Peter_OZ
you also need to brace on the opposite side right in the middle of pic.

Another weight saving idea would be to dremel out some holes in the ribs if you are able, it is amazing how much you can save by doing this.
Peter... I did both of your suggestions. The triangle stock was easy. Dremelling out the holes took a little longer. Each hole is 1/8" diameter, times 100 holes, plus the four larger holes in the W12's. Assuming an average of 7 lb/cu-ft density of the balsa, I calculate that I cut out 0.034 oz (2.13 g) of weight. Including the 4 servo rails and the 2 FCB's I cut out earlier, I saved 0.193 oz (12.06 g) of weight. It didn't hurt, but was it worth it? I don't know.

I didn't cut out any holes on the ribs holding the servo rails (aft of the spar). I figure I need the strength there to hold the servo rails. Do you see any other areas that I can do more Dremelling?

Josh
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Old 11-11-2006, 01:44 PM
  #39  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

nice retracts- install and video [sm=thumbup.gif]
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Old 11-12-2006, 12:04 AM
  #40  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Josh,
any little weight saving is abonus with this size of TF kit as they tend to come out on the heavy side mostly. My old Tf P40 was just over 10lbs which I'm told is on the light end. Ot hers have said theirs were over 12lbs.

I would think at 12lbs even with those huge flaps deployed that it would sink like a brick!

Wish I had cut holes all through my big P47 to save weight Always wiser in retrospect I guess.

Keep up the good work, your doing a great job of it. [sm=thumbup.gif]

cheers
Peter
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Old 11-12-2006, 09:08 AM
  #41  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

oops
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Old 11-13-2006, 12:26 AM
  #42  
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Hey Josh, The Sierra retracts look awsome. I put the Robarts in mine. Anyway, this is a nice short thread and appears pretty current, so I will join in for a bit. I am just finishing up my TF P-40. Put the decals on tonight. First coat of TF Lustrecoat appears to be having a reaction on my stars (Decals) I looked for this thread trying to figure out how anyone was successful putting the shark teeth decals on. I put one on and I knew it would require some relief cuts........but it got rediculous and looks like &^@#&^%#. I hate to think about it, but I think they are coming off and I am going to have to try my luck at hand painting them. I just see no way to make them look any good. I highly doubt the picture on the box is using those decals. The build was pretty smooth. I glassed it using 3/4 oz. cloth and Z-Poxy. It was my first time glassing and it went really smooth. Actually had fun. In retrospect, I may have taken a little more time with my contours around the fillets. Finding the actual Federal Standard colors was not easy. I went with NAPA heavy build medium gray primer. Sanded that, then painted my bottom using a touch up spray gun and my big compressor. I used Model Master Acrylic paint (Camoflage Grey) I did not thin it as suggested and it sprayed fine (3 small bottles for the bottom and flaps, wheel pods, cowl, etc.) I then painted the Tan on top with Krylon Ultra Flat Tan Camoflage Paint. That color is pretty close and we like it. I LOVE the Krylon paints and I always seem to have good luck with it. I chose this paint over the Model Master FS Dark Tan because it looked way too dark. I then sprayed the FS Model Master Medium Green freehand with my airbrush and was very pleased (First air brush experience also) I drew all the panel lines using the Top Flight Panel Line Pen (another first) and was surprised at how easy and neat it looked. Had a little trouble freehanding around the wing fillets and wheel pods, but overall I am happy......and I am hard on myself!!! As I said, I hit it with a coat of TF Flat Clear Coat, Installed the decals (I Scotch Brited my decals as per suggestion before clear coating and that prepped it for a nice, natural, flat finish) That is where I am at right now. I still need to hook up flaps, install aileron servo, the rest of the control horns, balance and blah, blah, blah. Basically, it is now an ARF!!!!! Will post some photos here in a couple days. So, if anyone has any suggestions about the Sharks Teeth, I am all ears.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:51 PM
  #43  
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Trying to figure out my digital camera. Here is an attempt to show one of my "near completion" photos.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:59 PM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Looks like it worked. Let me try a couple more. I decided tonight that the teeth are definately coming off and I am going to paint them by hand. I need to fix a few of my "bad" panel lines too. Hooked up the flaps, ailerons, rudder and elevators tonight. Also hooked up the retracts and ran them through. Need to do some investigating there......they start waaaaayyyyy to slow, then slam open and shut. After reading your posts, I am interested what mine is going to be weighing in at. Should get everything else installed tomorrow.
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Old 11-14-2006, 05:37 AM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

hey loctite , before you remove the teeth , see if adding the black shading useually found in the P40 mouth (above the tongue ) will make it more appealing to you .Its adds depth to the mouth .Then all you may need is add a few drops of paint around the front area to tie the mouth into the cooling ducts .
Nice job on your plane
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Old 11-14-2006, 08:18 AM
  #46  
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Thanks LDM......I just might give that a try. I did hit the decal with my heat gun......thinking it would either help it lay down better (even after too many relief cuts around the compound angles) or it would aid me in removing it.... Well, it actually helped it to flatten out a bit, so now I might just do as you suggest, sand it down a hair with some 320 grit and finish with some paint. Will be late Sunday before I can get to it as I need to study for final exam!!! Uggghhhh. Will post a pic when completed.
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Old 11-14-2006, 09:52 AM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Has anybody figuered out how to install the teeth decal without it looking like &*%#. I may leave it off , if I can't figure away around those compound curves.
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:09 AM
  #48  
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Hey Low & Slow.......pull back and throttle up!!!!! In reguards to your question about the teeth. I had just asked the same question a few posts prior. In the meantime, I took my heat gun and warmed the decal up a bit and used my sealing iron sock to smooth it out a bit. It kind of worked.......prior to that, as I was putting it on initially, I had to make several cuts with my exacto just to get it kinda flat. (That looked (^$$%$^%$) I am now going to try and sand it down a bit with some 200 grit paper and then touch up the whole mess by hand painting and taking LDM's advice and painting in the white "upper" part of the mouth either dark blue (Like several of the Flying Tiger originals) or black. I believe that will give me what I am looking for. As I said previously, I hope to get to that this weekend and will post my results hopefully Sunday night. I myself can't NOT have teeth on mine. To me, a Warhawk is not a Warhawk without em!!!! Good luck and maybe post a few pictures of your project if you can. Rob
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Old 11-15-2006, 07:18 PM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

hey guys I have some post under VQ P40 , I made my teeth by copying theeth and the enlargeing them . Then I use thick paper , cut small stress slot and sprayed flay clear , works wonder no problem at all .
Do a search under VQ P40 ----ldm
Thanks
Lou
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Old 11-15-2006, 08:22 PM
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Default RE: TF P-40 Build Thread

Great video of the retracts,... Sure it will look great in the air. [8D]
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