CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Just spotted this new ARF from from VQ :
http://www.vqwarbirds.com/products/aircraft/bf108.html

And, from Hobby People web-site:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/159898.asp

I found this foriegn site which provides more pics, and details (if you understand the language):
http://www.piccoleali.it/prodotto-14...UN-ARF-90.aspx

For those wanting a little history on this aircraft, a link to Wikipedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Messerschmitt_Bf_108

More interesting reading regarding the (full scale) Bf 108 design;
http://www.nzwarbirds.org.nz/108a.html
http://www.airbum.com/pireps/PirepME-108.html

Pic of Full Scale with same designation:
http://www.airliners.net/photo/Messe...d783993b5ecf72

AND, a link to "WINGS PALETTE", for other paint/ finish schemes:
http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww2/o/347

How about a sport flyer warbird, with functional flaps AND retracts included? I noticed that the retracts appear to operate in a scale manner, simular to the Bf 109.The question now is: is someone gonna pic one of these up, and add scale leading edge retractable slats?

Remarks:
Full scale Taifuns were used in at least several WW II movies, painted up like Bf 109s and used to simulate Bf 109s.
Altho a pre WWII design, Taifuns compared favorably to the post war BeechCraft Bonanza and Ryan Navion designs in terms of performance and function.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I just ordered one directly from VQ (NOT Hobby People).
So, looks like this will become a build thread.
I intend to use electric power, already have everything I need for it, and I would hate to carve holes in that small, streamlined cowl for the sake of muffler and/ or engine cylinder exits.

jayc73

I received mine Saturday it looks like a nice ARF. Much lighter than my Hangar 9 spitfire. I had a saito 125 in the spitfire but that seems like over kill with this model. I am thinking about a saito 82. I can't wait to get this one in the air.

jayc73

I have a couple images of the parts but I don't have a scale to weigh them. The covering and finish look pretty good. The wing halves didn't fit together flush. I have a picture of the gaps that were left. There was also a broken tongue when the wing hooks into the fuselage. That should be a pretty easy fix. Next on to the servos.

Icaro62

Hello to everyone. I am an Italian fan of models. I write with the help of an automatic translator for the first time on this forum. I bought a VQ MODEL BF-108 TAIFUN importer in Italy Small wings (Piccole Ali). I intend to make mine electric powered.I started the installation of the basket (wheel) and put the amortized. If you like,I'll post here my photos and thoughts. I apologize for the bad English.
See you soon
Mario

Icaro62

Here are the pictures!

Oberst

Hey there Corsair Jock! Permission to join your build Sir!

I ordered mine from Hobby People as well due to my LHS is a Global Dealer. I just call Marty up and he orders it and I pay cash when it arrives at his store. I should be posting pictures with my new bird about next week. It takes about a week or two when my orders arive from CA. [:@]

Mario,

What paint did you use to match the color of the bottom wing? And can you send us a Link to those exact Oleo Struts? I'm thinking of buying a pair or those expensive, but worth it electric retracts that every person I know is raving about. I don't want to grind anything off the wheel wells if I can help it if you guys know what I mean.


Pete

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Oberst: Sure, the more ther merrier. My only request to anybody and everybody that joins in: keep in mind the subject of this thread is the VQ Bf 108. And any way you build it is fine.

Icaro62: Welcome to RCU, glad you could join us in a thread that covers fuel powered AND electric powered warbirds. Mine will be getting a Scorpion "S-4020-16" which I just happened to have on hand. Otherwise, it would have recieved an AXI 4130-20 (same motor that is in my TF Mustang and H9 Corsair).

jayc73: If I wanted to go fuel power in mine, the Saito .82 would be my hands down choice (and I DO have one installed on my TF Corsair)

Mine is due to arrive on Thursday, 1/7/'10, via FedEx.

Oberst

I give you my word CorsairJock, I will behave.

Welcome Icaro62 ! Good to see you jayc73.

Pete

jayc73

Hobby People is sending me a new wing after I sent pictures and told them my issues. How awesome is that!

Oberst

That's just good buisness in my book. VQ is fantastic as well! Now if your other new wings has that big gap like your old ones, do you think white glue and Micro-balloons will work since the Alcohol will rub the paint off? Sounds like the paint might be a latex.

Last question, anyone know the scale?


Pete

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I was just wondering that myself. According to Wikipedia, full scale has 34', 5" wingspan, or 413" Divided by 64" makes it about:
1/6.5 scale. Full body pilots/ crew should be about 10 1/2" tall. TF Mustangs are close to 1/7 scale, so when they 'shoot me down' next summer, it outa be fairly scale like.

Icaro62

Thanks to everyone for the welcome! Answers to your questions you might find the site of Piccole Ali http://www.piccoleali.it/categorie-1...romodelli.aspx (you can choose the English language). Info Tec is explained in the type of coating that does not tolerate pure alcohol but it must be diluted max. 60% with product used for cleaning glasses (degreaser). Afterwards it tries to translate Info Tec. My folding are electrical. The base command is the same: I removed the rod and put that fixed amortized that cost 24 Euro (about 35 USD). I had to reduce the largeness of wheels to keep her from touching on the movement of the auction. For the engine, I chose this http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._500Kv_/_1475W. VQ models for what I know, are not true reproductions and measures are made for obtain good representations of flight. The paint I used is simple acrylic since I have not glow engine. If I can be useful, I remain available!

Icaro62

I translate what is written in the info Tec of Piccole Ali:

PVC is one of the materials used in technological applications. It owes its versatility to the possibility of being mixed in various proportions to products plasticizers that make flexible and modeling. VQ models are clad in vinyl films Model pre-printed. The construction technique is also called "print-over-film. Unlike other manufacturers who adopt other ARF kits coatings based on polyesters, VQ Model employs a sturdy vinyl films on heat-sensitive adhesive (more like the film used to decorate the cars). The main motivation for this kind of choice comes from the type of livery kits VQ Model. Just look at the PC-6 Bird, P51 DAGORED the CAP10B ARF 60, the stick F-1500 and, in general, the camouflage paint schemes to note the complexity and richness of the same special graphs, such as: rivets , bolts, access doors, paneling lines, vintage look. To make the idea of the level of detail sufficient to consider that on some liveries the screw heads reproduced in the coating have different angles! VQ Model then chose the coating material according to the possibility of reproducing, complex and original liveries in the best manner possible and without the use (or with minimal use) of stickers and "decals." This type of graphic result is difficult to obtain (with the same qualitative result) with other types of coating. Another important motivation is linked to greater resistance of the coating mixture and the engine exhaust blast. The vinyl coating film thus has a number of advantages and disadvantages, like any other alternative technological solutions. The main strengths of the coated vinyl films are: - Possibility to make ARF kit with liveries graphically rich and complex and with the best level of detail - Major durabilit and resistance of the coating mixture and by discharges from internal combustion engines Increased torsional stiffness of open structures coated The main disadvantages are: - Covering heavier than some polyester film (specific gravity similar to that of solid MonokoteTM) - Increased sensitivity to heat Increased sensitivity to heat the vinyl film takes a few tricks to allow for acclimatization to the same temperature. During the hottest periods of the year, the exposure of the coating to the outside temperature or strong sunlight can induce relaxation of the film. As the coating is "acclimatizes" (ie, the temperature rises and the coating becomes uniform) the same tender to retire within 3-5 minutes removing the wrinkles induced by first exposure to heat. In these particular circumstances, may be sufficient to bring the model in a shaded area to quickly eliminate the "wrinkles" above. VQ different models (such as: the FW-190 ARF 60, the P-40 ARF 60, the Ki61 ARF 60, etc.) have the structures of the fuselage, wing and tail stabilizers fully lined with balsa. In this case, the vinyl coating being completely bound to balsa tends not to suffer the phenomenon of wrinkling when exposed to heat. RECOMMENDATIONS 1) The coating is applied at the factory with the utmost prudence to avoid the formation of wrinkles. However, due to changes in temperature and humidity of the coating may show wrinkles (just as can happen for the other covering materials) at the open facilities. To eliminate these wrinkles is enough hot air to inflate with a normal hairdryer initially set a low temperature. At first, the film will relax forming wrinkles. After blowing the hot air the film will begin to retire Eliminado wrinkles. If necessary, you should increase the temperature of hot air and / or repeat the cycle until you get the desired result. 2) DO NOT USE THE IRON OR HOBBY, USE ONLY THE FON. 3) In the hottest days and more sunlight, allow the acclimatization of the film to external conditions. At first, the film forming tender to relax wrinkles. Later, after a few minutes, the film itself inizier retire automatically eliminating wrinkles. The process can be accelerated by bringing the model in the shade. 4) To clean the excess glue during assembly not use alcohol or thinners pure pure (like acetone). Use a product for cleaning glass or alcohol dliluito to 60% max. You may want to try in the corner. 5) Do not clean the coating using the card as it has the same abrasive effect (on all covering materials). Use a soft cloth. 6) To clean the waste mixture and / or residues of combustion engine exhaust products used for cleaning the glass or alcohol at 60% max. Do not use pure alcohol or pure solvents. REPAIRS Minor repairs for minor repairs you can use scraps of film eventualmenti present in the packaging of the kit. Alternatively, you can also use strips of adhesive shrink film commercially available. Major Repairs For repairs that involve large areas can have, on order, with the color of the sheets of model specific. For further information write to: [email protected]

jayc73

@Oberst
I am still going to use epoxy. On the wing I applied denatured alcohol to a paper towel and then cleaned off extra epoxy. On the elevator I used a q-tip to minimize the amount of surface exposed to it. The paint doesn't come of very easily thought, I wouldn't spray it directly on the airplane or I rub to hard. But if you're careful it should be fine. And if some comes off you can say I was weathering the airplane.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Despite hazardous driving conditions today (winter storm), mine arrived safely today.

First impressions:

1) Hardware in ZIPLOCK BAGGIES! Yes, many of them. VQ: you're the GREATEST. 1st thing I usually do when a kit arrives: repackage all small items in ZipLock baggies, so I can look at/ fondle parts and not worry about loosing them later. ALREADY DONE!

2) Retracts are typical for ARFs this size: 4.0 mm struts (about the same as 5/32"), which I consider too small/ weak for 10 lbs warbirds. I'll probably install something else.

3) Main Wheels are 3" dia., DEFINATELY too small and I'll see what I can squeeze into those 3 1/4" wheel wells (maybe I'll just remove them).

4) Fixed gear INCLUDED ALSO! If you are not comfortable with retracts, this kit includes a seperate set of struts and hardware for making it fixed gear. I assume that one could install the retracts at a later date if desired.

5) Spinner is about 2 1/8" dia, and appears to be appropriate for this aircraft.

6) 6mm nylon wing bolts: I don't like this, I'll have to replace them with good ole 1/4" ones (MUCH easier to replace if needed)

7) instructions and hardware included for electric motor installation (as well as fuel power): YES!

8) Finish: I LIKE it. My 1st model with panel lines and rivits, looks pretty darn good! No wrinkles, only a few sags over the open framework areas (rudder, elevators) which can probably be removed with a little heat.

9) Servos: Futaba S3004s drop right in to every servo mount (except maybe retract), a perfect fit! This is good news to me, because I am tired of having to modify servo mounts to fit the Futaba servos onto them, The Futaba S3004 is an ideal servo for this warbid: inexpensive, reliaable, strong enough to do the job (even flaps) and at 1.4 oz each: relatively light. But if digital is your preference: the Cirrus 126 is an ideal fit also.

That's all for today, more tomorrow.

jayc73

How are you guys handling the wing bolts? I'm used to the wing bolt head sitting on a plastic piece not naked wood. Are you guys ok with that or are you going to rig something up?

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Weighing in:

Fuselage, bare as shipped:...................614 gr/ 21.7 oz
Wings w hatches installed/ as shipped:...918 gr/ 32.4 oz.
Retracts (- mount hrdwr):.....................101 gr/ 3.5 oz.
Cowl:............................................. ....78 gr/ 2.8 oz
Canopy (untrimmed):.............................75 gr/ 2.7 oz.
Stab w elevators & hinges:.....................48 gr/ 5.2 oz
Rudder w hinges:..................................43 gr/ 1.5 oz.
Spar, gear doors, tail cover:...................46 gr/ 1.6 oz.

Total so far: about 4 1/2 lbs.
While there are many more parts, including motor mount, wheels, tail gear, spinner, pilot, and many more small parts: this is looking pretty good to me. I'm beginning to see the possibilty of an 8 lb '60 size' warbird.


I don't mind them tightened up against good plywood, but balsa? No. I too will add SOMETHING. I have some nylon washers, but I would even be willing to add metal washers, anything to keep from cruching soft wood.

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

I have a friend that finished his up a couple weeks ago . He used a Magnum 91 fs and still needed about 1 lb to get it to ballance. It still came out under 9 lbs. We are just waiting for some decent weather to test fly it. Rich

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

F.Y.I. - would suggest these plastic inserts, as a way to tighten your wing bolts, without crushing your wing saddle. Blue are the 1/4"X20 ones. Once you install these, your not going to use the blue plastic insert as something to screw or attach to, so your going to have use some calipers and find the O.D. of your wing bolts and drill out the I.D. of the blue insert, so it becomes a bushing.

I use the #2's (black) for attaching my control horns on my 60size models, that way you only have to put the screws on the bottom of the control surface, like aileron, flap and elevator, for a very clean and strong installation.
http://www.ohiosuperstar.com/threads.html

jayc73

@Baldeagle A POUND? 16 oz????? If I had the room I could put a gasser

jayc73

It's coming along..... Still debating on engine choice, if I have to add weight to the front end it might as well be a bigger engine.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

With a pound of weight added (for balance?), it STILL came in under 9 lbs? Please verify.

BTW: I assume the weight was added to the nose?

If so, I might consider NOT installing those stab braces: altho I failed to weigh them, they felt heavy. They appear to be made from hardwood, enclosed within an aluminum tube. An ounce removed from the tail means 2 or 3 ounces NOT needed up front.

_Tommy D

My Feedback: (20)

I thought I would add something take it for whats it worth.

Having assembled a bunch of Black Horse <BH> Models planes <similar to VQ> I make it a practice to always replace any push-rods going down the fuse with CF. Being a "electric" guy we do what we must to make CG.

Tommy D

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Ken said it was right a 1lbs . I don't know if he actually weighed it or not. I was hoping he would be at the field this morning but he wasn't. We lost a very good friend and flying Buddy Thursday. He was 87 and a WW11 vet. He worked on Corsairs on a Carrier during the War. Rich