Yellow P-40 build thread
01-12-2007, 02:43 PM
#51
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Wing Panel lines
I'm going to be putting 1/32" chart tape down before putting the primer down.
I'm using auto two part primer.
I'll first used a Sharpe fine tip felt pen (art/craft stores) to put the lines down so it'll be easier to put the chart tape on the wing.
I'm doing this early because: 1. the wing is pretty smooth and I shouldn't have to do much sanding and 2. I won't have a lot of wires and air lines in the way.
Also, without guns, fairings, etc, it's alot easier to wet sand the primer without a lot of 'things' in the way.
pic 1:
reference book from the library.
P-40 warhawk aces of the CBI by Carl Molesworth, Osprey aircraft of the aces- 35.
pic 2:
Panel lines reference sheet.
pic 3:
First I wet sanded (220 grit) the wings.
It's important to sand after each application of material to remove bumps, imbedded dust, etc.
pic 4:
The Fein detail sander has some nice attachments that are good at getting in tight spots.
pic 5/6:
Before/after: I transfered the belly pan outline to the bottom of the wing.
pic 7/8:
Before/after: I transfered the fuse outline to the top of the wing.
pic 9:
top of the wings are done so far with the felt tip pen.
looking from the center of the wing.
I extended the panel lines past the fuse to remove any errors in case my fuse outline is off.
There were two vertical panel lines on the fuse that I transferred to the wing so they would 'line up'.
pic 10:
top of wing looking from the wing tip.
pic 11:
top of wing looking from the front.
I'm going to be putting 1/32" chart tape down before putting the primer down.
I'm using auto two part primer.
I'll first used a Sharpe fine tip felt pen (art/craft stores) to put the lines down so it'll be easier to put the chart tape on the wing.
I'm doing this early because: 1. the wing is pretty smooth and I shouldn't have to do much sanding and 2. I won't have a lot of wires and air lines in the way.
Also, without guns, fairings, etc, it's alot easier to wet sand the primer without a lot of 'things' in the way.
pic 1:
reference book from the library.
P-40 warhawk aces of the CBI by Carl Molesworth, Osprey aircraft of the aces- 35.
pic 2:
Panel lines reference sheet.
pic 3:
First I wet sanded (220 grit) the wings.
It's important to sand after each application of material to remove bumps, imbedded dust, etc.
pic 4:
The Fein detail sander has some nice attachments that are good at getting in tight spots.
pic 5/6:
Before/after: I transfered the belly pan outline to the bottom of the wing.
pic 7/8:
Before/after: I transfered the fuse outline to the top of the wing.
pic 9:
top of the wings are done so far with the felt tip pen.
looking from the center of the wing.
I extended the panel lines past the fuse to remove any errors in case my fuse outline is off.
There were two vertical panel lines on the fuse that I transferred to the wing so they would 'line up'.
pic 10:
top of wing looking from the wing tip.
pic 11:
top of wing looking from the front.
01-12-2007, 05:13 PM
#52
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Wing panel lines (cont)
pic 1:
Bottom of the wing.
Looking from the wing tip.
pic 2:
looking from the center of the wing.
pic 3:
looking from the back of the wing.
I aligned the 'gun access' covers so the panel lines would align with the servo covers to help hide the covers (if that's possible!).
pic 1:
Bottom of the wing.
Looking from the wing tip.
pic 2:
looking from the center of the wing.
pic 3:
looking from the back of the wing.
I aligned the 'gun access' covers so the panel lines would align with the servo covers to help hide the covers (if that's possible!).
01-12-2007, 10:54 PM
#54
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
primer coat.
pic 1:
sanded and put the chart tape on the stab.
pic 2/3:
back/front wings primered.
pic 4:
stab primered.
This auto two part stuff is extremely toxic.
(a much more thorough and detailed explanation than I can give on paints and FG are listed below)
A more environmental approach can be read at this web site:
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp
Here's another water base paint.
I saw a plane another pilot did with this and he said he just used a brush.
He said it just evens out and no brush marks show.
He said a hardener is added to make it fuel proof.
He said a very small amount goes a 'long way'.
http://www.warbirdcolors.com/
Here's more painting info from Tom Pierce:
http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/html/paint.htm
Plus some FG info:
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...nish/index.htm
AND, my all time favorite easy to understand explanation!:
http://blueballfixed.ytmnd.com/
pic 1:
sanded and put the chart tape on the stab.
pic 2/3:
back/front wings primered.
pic 4:
stab primered.
This auto two part stuff is extremely toxic.
(a much more thorough and detailed explanation than I can give on paints and FG are listed below)
A more environmental approach can be read at this web site:
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp
Here's another water base paint.
I saw a plane another pilot did with this and he said he just used a brush.
He said it just evens out and no brush marks show.
He said a hardener is added to make it fuel proof.
He said a very small amount goes a 'long way'.
http://www.warbirdcolors.com/
Here's more painting info from Tom Pierce:
http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/html/paint.htm
Plus some FG info:
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...nish/index.htm
AND, my all time favorite easy to understand explanation!:
http://blueballfixed.ytmnd.com/
01-13-2007, 02:25 AM
#55
My Feedback: (5)
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
The P-40 is looking great! Nice work! I would like to get one myself!
I have never fiberglassed anything, so I have a couple questions. Forgive me if this has been covered...
When do you attach the pre-formed parts like the wingtips, belly pan, etc. and how? Right after you're finished glassing but before priming? You epoxy them on? How do you avoid a 'lip' or 'step' between the glassed surface and the part?
I have heard of making panel lines with thin chart tape. The tape goes on right before the first coat of primer? When do you pull up the tape? After a couple primer coats? Doesn't that leave a groove without primer in it (where paint might not 'stick' well)? Or would you add one last primer coat after the tape but before the color coat? That would make more sense I guess...
Thanks a lot for doing this thread! [8D]
I have never fiberglassed anything, so I have a couple questions. Forgive me if this has been covered...
When do you attach the pre-formed parts like the wingtips, belly pan, etc. and how? Right after you're finished glassing but before priming? You epoxy them on? How do you avoid a 'lip' or 'step' between the glassed surface and the part?
I have heard of making panel lines with thin chart tape. The tape goes on right before the first coat of primer? When do you pull up the tape? After a couple primer coats? Doesn't that leave a groove without primer in it (where paint might not 'stick' well)? Or would you add one last primer coat after the tape but before the color coat? That would make more sense I guess...
Thanks a lot for doing this thread! [8D]
01-13-2007, 07:32 AM
#56
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Each plane is different on deciding when to attach items.
Wing tips are usually put on before glassing.
The surfaces between parts put on should be flush with each other.
If not, then a 'filler' and or/sanding should be done before glassing.
All surfaces should be very smooth before glassing to save a lot of work later to fill/sand those areas.
Belly pans, fairings, etc is up to each builder to either glass to the plane or use some means of securing the part (such as screws).
I'm using screws on the gear fairings (covers) so I can get the retracts out for later maintenance.
IE: the belly pan, I haven't thought that far ahead. I may screw it on or epoxy it on and smooth out the transition between the pan and wing and then glass it.
You can always primer early and then add more parts and primer just those areas as you build.
Breaking down a plane construction into parts makes it managable so the task doesn't seem too over whelming.
When to put chart tape on is another variable.
Normally, it's done near the end of the process, just before painting a model.
You spray primer around all the tape to get a raised area.
No need to re-prime the entire area because no one can see that small of a transition between the tape to the rest of the surface.
In my case, the glass is exposed, but I have wet sanded it to give it 'tooth' for the paint to hold to.
Even if I didn't sand, a 1/32" gap is too small for paint not to adhere.
In my case, I'll be wet sanding before pulling up the tape.
Again, you could also put the tape down just before painting: pull it up right after painting the primer to put the panel lines on and before putting the paint down.
Another variable, after the primer is down and the plane is ready to paint, put the tape down and let the paint create the panel lines.
Primer is normally needed before painting, though.
1. it's always amazing how many flaws are revealed in what you initially thought was a nice smooth surface
2. paint normally needs a primer to 'stick' well to the surface so it won't peal away later on.
There's also what you are building the plane for: just to have a nice looking model or go to the 'Masters'.
On most ARF's, many parts are just screwed on: I think this axium holds true just for ARF's.
Most people don't really see the ridge left between parts and the plane.
For ARF's, people know it's an ARF so they expect that level of detail.
When you start building, people look at it closer to check your work.
When building a plane that requires more work, you can go to the detail you are comfortable with.
If you want a 'show' model, you better have it looking like a real plane when you take a picture of it.
If you want to find your mistakes, take a picture of it.
A picture is so much more 'critical' of your model than if you just look at it from different angles.
With planes as with just about anything, the old adage holds: 'there's more than one way to skin a cat'.
Wing tips are usually put on before glassing.
The surfaces between parts put on should be flush with each other.
If not, then a 'filler' and or/sanding should be done before glassing.
All surfaces should be very smooth before glassing to save a lot of work later to fill/sand those areas.
Belly pans, fairings, etc is up to each builder to either glass to the plane or use some means of securing the part (such as screws).
I'm using screws on the gear fairings (covers) so I can get the retracts out for later maintenance.
IE: the belly pan, I haven't thought that far ahead. I may screw it on or epoxy it on and smooth out the transition between the pan and wing and then glass it.
You can always primer early and then add more parts and primer just those areas as you build.
Breaking down a plane construction into parts makes it managable so the task doesn't seem too over whelming.
When to put chart tape on is another variable.
Normally, it's done near the end of the process, just before painting a model.
You spray primer around all the tape to get a raised area.
No need to re-prime the entire area because no one can see that small of a transition between the tape to the rest of the surface.
In my case, the glass is exposed, but I have wet sanded it to give it 'tooth' for the paint to hold to.
Even if I didn't sand, a 1/32" gap is too small for paint not to adhere.
In my case, I'll be wet sanding before pulling up the tape.
Again, you could also put the tape down just before painting: pull it up right after painting the primer to put the panel lines on and before putting the paint down.
Another variable, after the primer is down and the plane is ready to paint, put the tape down and let the paint create the panel lines.
Primer is normally needed before painting, though.
1. it's always amazing how many flaws are revealed in what you initially thought was a nice smooth surface
2. paint normally needs a primer to 'stick' well to the surface so it won't peal away later on.
There's also what you are building the plane for: just to have a nice looking model or go to the 'Masters'.
On most ARF's, many parts are just screwed on: I think this axium holds true just for ARF's.
Most people don't really see the ridge left between parts and the plane.
For ARF's, people know it's an ARF so they expect that level of detail.
When you start building, people look at it closer to check your work.
When building a plane that requires more work, you can go to the detail you are comfortable with.
If you want a 'show' model, you better have it looking like a real plane when you take a picture of it.
If you want to find your mistakes, take a picture of it.
A picture is so much more 'critical' of your model than if you just look at it from different angles.
With planes as with just about anything, the old adage holds: 'there's more than one way to skin a cat'.
01-13-2007, 11:02 AM
#57
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
wing/stab primer sanding.
pic 1:
Stab wet sanded with 220 grit.
pic 2:
I wet sanded until the tape shows and then removed the tape.
pic 3:
After removing the tape, I wet sanded by hand and using a paint stick until all 'orange peal' is gone.
Some may have a concern about weight leaving this much primer on and should be sanded until most of the primer is gone and only the imperfections are left. This method is also good and the panel lines can then be added later.
Once all the 'orange peal' is sanded away, there's not a whole lot of primer left.
These panel lines will be subtle.
Panel lines could probably be left off for scale looks: when we look at pictures of the full size planes from an average 30-50 feet away, we really don't see those panel lines that we like to put on our planes.
Panel lines are cool though and we're always going to add them.
pic 4:
Bottom of wing after first wet sanding exposing the tape.
One nice thing about primering the surfaces before assembly is the ease of wet sanding.
It's difficult to sand a 90 degree corner smoothly versus just sanding the whole stab at once.
It's like woodworking, all parts are always sanded before assembly because imperfections will exist trying to sand in corners.
pic 1:
Stab wet sanded with 220 grit.
pic 2:
I wet sanded until the tape shows and then removed the tape.
pic 3:
After removing the tape, I wet sanded by hand and using a paint stick until all 'orange peal' is gone.
Some may have a concern about weight leaving this much primer on and should be sanded until most of the primer is gone and only the imperfections are left. This method is also good and the panel lines can then be added later.
Once all the 'orange peal' is sanded away, there's not a whole lot of primer left.
These panel lines will be subtle.
Panel lines could probably be left off for scale looks: when we look at pictures of the full size planes from an average 30-50 feet away, we really don't see those panel lines that we like to put on our planes.
Panel lines are cool though and we're always going to add them.
pic 4:
Bottom of wing after first wet sanding exposing the tape.
One nice thing about primering the surfaces before assembly is the ease of wet sanding.
It's difficult to sand a 90 degree corner smoothly versus just sanding the whole stab at once.
It's like woodworking, all parts are always sanded before assembly because imperfections will exist trying to sand in corners.
01-13-2007, 11:54 AM
#58
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Here's another nice reference.
Flight Journal puts out special issues devoted to just one plane.
Once you're on their list, they'll email you when the new special issue is out.
Shipping is free or a very nominal amount.
I think I've got every special issue put out on vintage warbirds.
I really enjoy reading first person stories from pilots and ground crew.
The P-40 special issue is from Summer of 2004 so I don't know if it's still available.
You can check their web site.
http://www.rcstore.com/rs/general/li...id=6&catego=BO
Flight Journal puts out special issues devoted to just one plane.
Once you're on their list, they'll email you when the new special issue is out.
Shipping is free or a very nominal amount.
I think I've got every special issue put out on vintage warbirds.
I really enjoy reading first person stories from pilots and ground crew.
The P-40 special issue is from Summer of 2004 so I don't know if it's still available.
You can check their web site.
http://www.rcstore.com/rs/general/li...id=6&catego=BO
01-13-2007, 09:04 PM
#60
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
wing routing holes
pic 1:
I initially put a hole in the top of the wing and ran a perpendicular hole down to the factory installed hole along the inside bottom of the wing so I could route the wires/air lines to the lower hole and then up through the top hole.
pic 2:
It dawned on me to just put an angled hole from the top of the wing to the inside access of the retract well.
Now I can epoxy the wing together without having to pre-route the wires due to the 90 degree angle gone.
All future maintenance will also be a lot easier.
Easy to make the hole when a foam core is used: just use a piece of brass tubing and twist it through the foam.
pic 1:
I initially put a hole in the top of the wing and ran a perpendicular hole down to the factory installed hole along the inside bottom of the wing so I could route the wires/air lines to the lower hole and then up through the top hole.
pic 2:
It dawned on me to just put an angled hole from the top of the wing to the inside access of the retract well.
Now I can epoxy the wing together without having to pre-route the wires due to the 90 degree angle gone.
All future maintenance will also be a lot easier.
Easy to make the hole when a foam core is used: just use a piece of brass tubing and twist it through the foam.
01-14-2007, 07:23 PM
#61
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
wings joined.
pic 1/2:
There are two 1/4" thick plys to hold the two wing sections together.
I drew pen lines in the center of both plys to insure both plys stayed centered.
I used lots of epoxy to get the slots on each wing covered plus the plys plus the two mating surfaces.
I used about 1/2 bottle each of hardener and resin mixed in three batches go get everything covered.
Since no servos or retracts are on the wing, it was easy to put the two wings together and just set the wing on edge to harden.
pic 1/2:
There are two 1/4" thick plys to hold the two wing sections together.
I drew pen lines in the center of both plys to insure both plys stayed centered.
I used lots of epoxy to get the slots on each wing covered plus the plys plus the two mating surfaces.
I used about 1/2 bottle each of hardener and resin mixed in three batches go get everything covered.
Since no servos or retracts are on the wing, it was easy to put the two wings together and just set the wing on edge to harden.
01-15-2007, 11:43 AM
#62
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
wing to fuse.
pic 1:
We need to put a hole into the front of the fuse in the cowl area so we can get to the wing dowels.
pic 2:
Two small holes are drilled so the larger forstner bit won't overheat and the smaller holes also allows the chips to escape.
pic 3:
1 3/4" forstner bit used to make the two outside curves.
pic 4:
A dremel heavy duty cut off disk was used to cut the straight lines.
pic 5:
A small sander makes quick work of rounding one end of the aluminum wing dowels so they go in easier into the fuse.
pic 1:
We need to put a hole into the front of the fuse in the cowl area so we can get to the wing dowels.
pic 2:
Two small holes are drilled so the larger forstner bit won't overheat and the smaller holes also allows the chips to escape.
pic 3:
1 3/4" forstner bit used to make the two outside curves.
pic 4:
A dremel heavy duty cut off disk was used to cut the straight lines.
pic 5:
A small sander makes quick work of rounding one end of the aluminum wing dowels so they go in easier into the fuse.
01-15-2007, 11:54 AM
#63
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
wing to fuse (cont)
pic 1:
the FG belly pan already has the wing dowels holes drilled out.
We used this to transfer the holes to the wing and fuse.
The holes are 6" apart and 1/2" diameter.
I also had to cut a rectangular piece out of the center of the front of the belly pan so it would fit on the wing when the wing and fuse are mated.
pic 2:
Belly pan holes transfered to the wing.
pic 3:
As well as to the fuse.
pic 4:
I used a 1/2" forstner bit to drill all four holes.
I used a 1/16" bit to pre-drill guide holes in the center of the four holes.
pic 5:
The wing aluminum dowels to the fuse.
pic 6:
looking at the dowels from the hole we put in the front of the fuse.
pic 7:
The 1/4" thick re-inforcement ply that is epoxied onto the former.
I marked off two holes, 6" apart, on the ply and drilled 1/2" holes.
The hole centers were 1/2" from the top of the re-inforcement ply but I had to do some sanding to remove some ply around the edges to get it to fit in that tight space.
pic 8:
Re-inforcement ply epoxied in.
I kept the epoxy about an inch away from the dowels so they wouldn't get glued in.
pic 1:
the FG belly pan already has the wing dowels holes drilled out.
We used this to transfer the holes to the wing and fuse.
The holes are 6" apart and 1/2" diameter.
I also had to cut a rectangular piece out of the center of the front of the belly pan so it would fit on the wing when the wing and fuse are mated.
pic 2:
Belly pan holes transfered to the wing.
pic 3:
As well as to the fuse.
pic 4:
I used a 1/2" forstner bit to drill all four holes.
I used a 1/16" bit to pre-drill guide holes in the center of the four holes.
pic 5:
The wing aluminum dowels to the fuse.
pic 6:
looking at the dowels from the hole we put in the front of the fuse.
pic 7:
The 1/4" thick re-inforcement ply that is epoxied onto the former.
I marked off two holes, 6" apart, on the ply and drilled 1/2" holes.
The hole centers were 1/2" from the top of the re-inforcement ply but I had to do some sanding to remove some ply around the edges to get it to fit in that tight space.
pic 8:
Re-inforcement ply epoxied in.
I kept the epoxy about an inch away from the dowels so they wouldn't get glued in.
01-15-2007, 12:04 PM
#64
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
wing to fuse (cont)
pic 1:
1/4" thick wing doubler.
This is glued in the fuse and we'll be tapping this ply for the wing bolt.
pic 2:
1/8" thick wing re-inforcement plate.
Also, in the picture is the aluminum wing bolt fitting, the steel bolt and the 5/16"X18 tap we'll use to tap the ply in the fuse.
pic 3:
To make sure the wing is perpendicular to the fuse, I used the corner of the tail wheel well to hold my tape measure.
pic 4:
Just a hair over 46 1/2" on both sides to the corner of the aileron of the wing tip.
The back center of the wing only had to be moved 1/16" over from the center of the fuse center to get my 46 1/2" (good design work).
pic 1:
1/4" thick wing doubler.
This is glued in the fuse and we'll be tapping this ply for the wing bolt.
pic 2:
1/8" thick wing re-inforcement plate.
Also, in the picture is the aluminum wing bolt fitting, the steel bolt and the 5/16"X18 tap we'll use to tap the ply in the fuse.
pic 3:
To make sure the wing is perpendicular to the fuse, I used the corner of the tail wheel well to hold my tape measure.
pic 4:
Just a hair over 46 1/2" on both sides to the corner of the aileron of the wing tip.
The back center of the wing only had to be moved 1/16" over from the center of the fuse center to get my 46 1/2" (good design work).
01-15-2007, 03:32 PM
#65
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
wing to fuse (cont)
pic 1:
Using a right angle and an adjustable protractor, I get an 18 degree angle.
pic 2:
Transfering this to the fuse with the protractor, I get an angle that is perpendicular to my shop floor (at least in proprotion to how I have the fuse resting in the cradle), so I can just keep the drill bit 'straight up and down' while drilling.
pic 3:
After drilling a 1/4" hole, we can tap the hole with the 5/16"X18 tap.
pic 4:
The top of the wing bolt fitting is band sanded to an angle so it's flush to the top (inside) side of the wing.
pic 5:
Wing bolt fitting epoxied in.
pic 6:
Belly Pan temporarily put on.
Will be epoxied later.
pic 7/8:
Starting to look like a plane!
pic 1:
Using a right angle and an adjustable protractor, I get an 18 degree angle.
pic 2:
Transfering this to the fuse with the protractor, I get an angle that is perpendicular to my shop floor (at least in proprotion to how I have the fuse resting in the cradle), so I can just keep the drill bit 'straight up and down' while drilling.
pic 3:
After drilling a 1/4" hole, we can tap the hole with the 5/16"X18 tap.
pic 4:
The top of the wing bolt fitting is band sanded to an angle so it's flush to the top (inside) side of the wing.
pic 5:
Wing bolt fitting epoxied in.
pic 6:
Belly Pan temporarily put on.
Will be epoxied later.
pic 7/8:
Starting to look like a plane!
01-16-2007, 04:56 PM
#67
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
retracts and wing servos.
pic 1:
Epoxied some heavy duty auto FG to the center of the wing.
pic 2/3:
Air hose routing.
Double cylinders so 'T' connections needed.
All in retract set along with air hose, plus quick connects.
pic 4:
main air hose routing going from the 'T' connects at the retract to the top, center of the wing.
I also used all heavy duty, 22 gauge, twisted wires.
pic 5/6:
I 'eye balled' the mount holes to the servo cover by just holding the edge of the cover to the holes and marking a pencil line (P*ss Poor picture!).
Did same on all four sides resulting in 'cross hairs' for where the holes need to be drilled.
pic 7:
I used #2 flat head screws (from micofasteners, #2X3/8", part SMFPS0206).
1. used a scriber to indent a small hole in the 'cross hairs'.
2. dremel'ed a 1/16" bit hole in the 'cross hairs'.
3. hand drilled a larger bit with the same cone shape as the bottom of the flat head screw to get a recess.
pic 8:
One cover done.
The flat head screws are flush to the surface (don't want any wind resistance!!).
pic 1:
Epoxied some heavy duty auto FG to the center of the wing.
pic 2/3:
Air hose routing.
Double cylinders so 'T' connections needed.
All in retract set along with air hose, plus quick connects.
pic 4:
main air hose routing going from the 'T' connects at the retract to the top, center of the wing.
I also used all heavy duty, 22 gauge, twisted wires.
pic 5/6:
I 'eye balled' the mount holes to the servo cover by just holding the edge of the cover to the holes and marking a pencil line (P*ss Poor picture!).
Did same on all four sides resulting in 'cross hairs' for where the holes need to be drilled.
pic 7:
I used #2 flat head screws (from micofasteners, #2X3/8", part SMFPS0206).
1. used a scriber to indent a small hole in the 'cross hairs'.
2. dremel'ed a 1/16" bit hole in the 'cross hairs'.
3. hand drilled a larger bit with the same cone shape as the bottom of the flat head screw to get a recess.
pic 8:
One cover done.
The flat head screws are flush to the surface (don't want any wind resistance!!).
01-16-2007, 05:08 PM
#68
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Servo wire and air hose routing.
pic 1:
Used the ol' trusty piano wire with a hook to pull the wires through.
pic 2:
It's necessary to route the wires through the holes in the sides of the retracts.
I also didn't re-inforce the retract mount with any extra FG.
I normally to this but there wasn't much room to be sloppy with excess FG and epoxy,
especially with servo wires routing right through the retract.
pic 3:
Servo covers and retracts in.
pic 4:
Top of wing.
I used two 24" extensions for the ailerons and two 12" extensions for the flaps and two 6" 'Y' connectors.
pic 5:
front view.
pic 1:
Used the ol' trusty piano wire with a hook to pull the wires through.
pic 2:
It's necessary to route the wires through the holes in the sides of the retracts.
I also didn't re-inforce the retract mount with any extra FG.
I normally to this but there wasn't much room to be sloppy with excess FG and epoxy,
especially with servo wires routing right through the retract.
pic 3:
Servo covers and retracts in.
pic 4:
Top of wing.
I used two 24" extensions for the ailerons and two 12" extensions for the flaps and two 6" 'Y' connectors.
pic 5:
front view.
01-16-2007, 11:52 PM
#70
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Main gear doors (cont)
pic 1:
Now that we have the wing primered, we'll put the fairing back on.
I'm only screwing the fairings on and not glueing and smoothing the transition because:
1. I know I'm going to have to 'service' the retracts sooner or later,
and 2. this is not a model going to the 'masters'.
I've been having trouble keeping those small ply wedges at the rear of the fairing attached to the FG so I used #0X3/16" flat head sheet metal screws.
We'll also be using these screws for the doors (Microfasteners #0X3/16", part SMFPK0003).
These screws are really small.
A #50 drill bit is used which is about a 1/32" diameter.
We'll also be using piano hinges that are only a total of 1/2" wide (Nelson hobby specialties, 1/2" wide X10", part PH1210)
pic 2:
The main door inside is glassed over the balsa sheeting that we added in an earlier discussion.
pic 3:
A 4" long piece of piano hinge is screwed to the door with those #0 screws.
The door is notched 1/2 the thickness of the piano pin (about a 1/64" ).
On the fairing, the recess is removed plus a 1/64" notch for the other half of the pin.
This way the axis is exactly between the fairing and door and it will open 'true'.
pic 4:
Door attached.
Closed position.
pic 5:
door open....coooool!
This is one nice kit that comes with all these goodies!
pic 1:
Now that we have the wing primered, we'll put the fairing back on.
I'm only screwing the fairings on and not glueing and smoothing the transition because:
1. I know I'm going to have to 'service' the retracts sooner or later,
and 2. this is not a model going to the 'masters'.
I've been having trouble keeping those small ply wedges at the rear of the fairing attached to the FG so I used #0X3/16" flat head sheet metal screws.
We'll also be using these screws for the doors (Microfasteners #0X3/16", part SMFPK0003).
These screws are really small.
A #50 drill bit is used which is about a 1/32" diameter.
We'll also be using piano hinges that are only a total of 1/2" wide (Nelson hobby specialties, 1/2" wide X10", part PH1210)
pic 2:
The main door inside is glassed over the balsa sheeting that we added in an earlier discussion.
pic 3:
A 4" long piece of piano hinge is screwed to the door with those #0 screws.
The door is notched 1/2 the thickness of the piano pin (about a 1/64" ).
On the fairing, the recess is removed plus a 1/64" notch for the other half of the pin.
This way the axis is exactly between the fairing and door and it will open 'true'.
pic 4:
Door attached.
Closed position.
pic 5:
door open....coooool!
This is one nice kit that comes with all these goodies!
I just gotta say great job! and keep up the good work!
01-17-2007, 12:47 PM
#72
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
thanks for the encouragement.
Main gear doors (cont)
pic 1:
Next, we need to make the doors 'spring' open.
We'll use Yellow's offset hinges (part 2201, 3 pairs needed) plus some torsion springs (Mcmasters, 1 package, part 9271K451).
pic 2:
Removed the hinge pin which is a screw.
It only has threads at the head end like on your car's calipers.
Only half of the hinge is used.
I filed the space in the middle where the hinge pin goes so the spring will fit.
pic 3:
I found the bottom edge of the hinge aligned with the bottom edge of the piano hinge puts the hinge in the correct location.
I used the #0X3/16" screws (two per hinge) to hold the sprung hinge to the piano hinge.
No glue used: too close to moving parts, plus we can easily take it apart later for any future maintenance.
pic 4/5:
I bent the ends of the spring wire so the wire doesn't snag the door surface.
I also put a bend in the spring wire near the hinge pin to get more tension on the door.
(if you still need more tension, add a small piece of ply to the door where the spring wire hits the door)
I also rounded over the inside corner at the bottom of the hinge pin so the door won't rub on the hinge.
Pic 6:
Next, we need to put a wire from the door to the fairing so the oleo will hit the wire and close the door as the wheel folds into the wing.
I used a Dubro control horn (part # 107) on the door.
I cut a 1/16" hole as close as possible in the vertical part of the control horn and cut the rest away.
I cut out the balsa using those chisels from the previous discussion and screwed the horn into the door.
I also drilled a 1/16" hole in the right rear gusset of the fairing.
Naturally, all this had to be done with the fairing removed from the wing: don't forget to remove the two gusset screws plus the screw on the top of the wing holding the edge of the fairing down (definately a good reason for not making these fairings a permanent part of the wing!).
Main gear doors (cont)
pic 1:
Next, we need to make the doors 'spring' open.
We'll use Yellow's offset hinges (part 2201, 3 pairs needed) plus some torsion springs (Mcmasters, 1 package, part 9271K451).
pic 2:
Removed the hinge pin which is a screw.
It only has threads at the head end like on your car's calipers.
Only half of the hinge is used.
I filed the space in the middle where the hinge pin goes so the spring will fit.
pic 3:
I found the bottom edge of the hinge aligned with the bottom edge of the piano hinge puts the hinge in the correct location.
I used the #0X3/16" screws (two per hinge) to hold the sprung hinge to the piano hinge.
No glue used: too close to moving parts, plus we can easily take it apart later for any future maintenance.
pic 4/5:
I bent the ends of the spring wire so the wire doesn't snag the door surface.
I also put a bend in the spring wire near the hinge pin to get more tension on the door.
(if you still need more tension, add a small piece of ply to the door where the spring wire hits the door)
I also rounded over the inside corner at the bottom of the hinge pin so the door won't rub on the hinge.
Pic 6:
Next, we need to put a wire from the door to the fairing so the oleo will hit the wire and close the door as the wheel folds into the wing.
I used a Dubro control horn (part # 107) on the door.
I cut a 1/16" hole as close as possible in the vertical part of the control horn and cut the rest away.
I cut out the balsa using those chisels from the previous discussion and screwed the horn into the door.
I also drilled a 1/16" hole in the right rear gusset of the fairing.
Naturally, all this had to be done with the fairing removed from the wing: don't forget to remove the two gusset screws plus the screw on the top of the wing holding the edge of the fairing down (definately a good reason for not making these fairings a permanent part of the wing!).
01-18-2007, 04:39 PM
#73
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Main gear doors (cont)
pic 1:
Good timing for me: another thread asked about how to get the P-40 doors to close all the way.
I was also having troubles using wire.
I went out and got some braided fishing line.
I stuff I got is green (all they had), it's by Power pro, called microfilament line.
The front of the box doesn't say but the top says 'braided microfilament line': good enough for me.
I don't know if this stuff stretches so I got the 50 lb line over the 10 lb line: I figured 50 lb line is less likely to stretch( I may have wasted an extra 6 bucks!).
The stuff I got has a bar code: 12649 10110.
pic 2:
I was moving the control horn on the door and ended up at the end of the door.
It seemed like the shorter the thread, the less error occurred.
pic 3:
You can see the thread going to one of the fairing screws.
I used the screw to make adjustments easier until the proper length was found.
When the door is opening and the wheel comes down, it only misses it by a 1/4" ( or so).
I have a little concern on the door being that close.
I'm hoping wind doesn't keep it from opening all the way.
I guess I better make sure those springs have lots of pressure and make sure there is absolutely no binding in that hinge!
I'm guessing that the line works better than the wire due to its flexibility and also lighter than wire.
If that wheel touches that corner of the door, there's no way that retract is coming down.
It's not scale but I might opt to cut a small triangle off that corner.
After trial and error, I now have a few extra holes to fill in on the surface of the door!
You can also see the #0X3/16" sheet metal screws I put into the back of the fairing into those ply gussets that are on the inside of the fairing which keep the back of the fairing from 'moving around'.
These #0 screws really come in handy: they're quick with no waiting for glue to dry, any maintenance or adjustments are easier, and there's probably no substitute for trying to hold a metal hinge to FG.
pic 1:
Good timing for me: another thread asked about how to get the P-40 doors to close all the way.
I was also having troubles using wire.
I went out and got some braided fishing line.
I stuff I got is green (all they had), it's by Power pro, called microfilament line.
The front of the box doesn't say but the top says 'braided microfilament line': good enough for me.
I don't know if this stuff stretches so I got the 50 lb line over the 10 lb line: I figured 50 lb line is less likely to stretch( I may have wasted an extra 6 bucks!).
The stuff I got has a bar code: 12649 10110.
pic 2:
I was moving the control horn on the door and ended up at the end of the door.
It seemed like the shorter the thread, the less error occurred.
pic 3:
You can see the thread going to one of the fairing screws.
I used the screw to make adjustments easier until the proper length was found.
When the door is opening and the wheel comes down, it only misses it by a 1/4" ( or so).
I have a little concern on the door being that close.
I'm hoping wind doesn't keep it from opening all the way.
I guess I better make sure those springs have lots of pressure and make sure there is absolutely no binding in that hinge!
I'm guessing that the line works better than the wire due to its flexibility and also lighter than wire.
If that wheel touches that corner of the door, there's no way that retract is coming down.
It's not scale but I might opt to cut a small triangle off that corner.
After trial and error, I now have a few extra holes to fill in on the surface of the door!
You can also see the #0X3/16" sheet metal screws I put into the back of the fairing into those ply gussets that are on the inside of the fairing which keep the back of the fairing from 'moving around'.
These #0 screws really come in handy: they're quick with no waiting for glue to dry, any maintenance or adjustments are easier, and there's probably no substitute for trying to hold a metal hinge to FG.
01-18-2007, 05:13 PM
#74
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Main gear doors (cont)
pic 1:
I forgot to mention that I had to put a thin piece of plastic between those sprung hinges and the piano hinge.
Even with rounding over of the inside corners of the sprung hinge, the door was rubbing against the sprung hinge when the door was almost closed.
This may have also stopped my door from initially completely closing.
I put some thin CA on the braided line at the gusset so it won't move when I remove the line from the fairing screw and tie the string off at the gusset. There's no room for any error on this line length!
pic 1:
I forgot to mention that I had to put a thin piece of plastic between those sprung hinges and the piano hinge.
Even with rounding over of the inside corners of the sprung hinge, the door was rubbing against the sprung hinge when the door was almost closed.
This may have also stopped my door from initially completely closing.
I put some thin CA on the braided line at the gusset so it won't move when I remove the line from the fairing screw and tie the string off at the gusset. There's no room for any error on this line length!
01-18-2007, 10:00 PM
#75
RE: Yellow P-40 build thread
Engine and muffler
pic 1:
I'm using a DA-50 for power.
This is Yellow's spinner and the engine mount box.
pic 2:
There's plenty of room in the front end for this engine!
pic 3/4:
I'm putting a Keleo functioning scale exhaust in the P-40.
These pictures show the scale exhaust on my TF P-51.
It's cool having the smoke come out when first starting up the engine and having the exhaust come out from where it's suppose to.
Keleo's web site:
http://www.keleo-creations.com/index.html
pic 1:
I'm using a DA-50 for power.
This is Yellow's spinner and the engine mount box.
pic 2:
There's plenty of room in the front end for this engine!
pic 3/4:
I'm putting a Keleo functioning scale exhaust in the P-40.
These pictures show the scale exhaust on my TF P-51.
It's cool having the smoke come out when first starting up the engine and having the exhaust come out from where it's suppose to.
Keleo's web site:
http://www.keleo-creations.com/index.html