Building a Top Flite GE 1/8 scale F4U Corsair
#976
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: granbury,
TX
Posts: 129

Hey NCIS
Could you help me with the size of your Stars and Bars and the lettering/numbering. I hoping to order some stencils but I need to know the correct measurments?
Could you help me with the size of your Stars and Bars and the lettering/numbering. I hoping to order some stencils but I need to know the correct measurments?
#977
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Taipei, TAIWAN
Posts: 1,942

the tip stall is definitely an issue. what you should do is hold elevator to keep the tail down during the first part of the take off. as the airplane picks up speed release the elevator so you don't take off prematurely. if your nose keeps hitting the ground, try trimming the elevator so that it allows the plane a more level take off attitude. lastly, these types of airplanes aren't meant to be easy to take off. many will open the throttle too quickly and the plane will roll. it's best to accelerate and take a long takeoff. i hope your next attempt is more successful!
#978
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 4,948

Hello,
I'm back and am going to try to finish up my plane for next year. First I'll take it and weigh it to see if it is flight worthy. I am afraid I might have the same problem as tessex. With all my lights wiring and detailing I think I might be to heavy. I am going to weigh it without the receiver, battery, and circuit board for the lights to get the least weight I can. I'm taking off the Robart scale wheels and putting on Dave Brown lite weights. I'm not putting the main gear doors or TW doors on but will put the LE gear doors on the struts. I will have the doors and the rest of the stuff for static appearence only. I am also going to change to a 2 blade prop so I get the best performance out of the Saito as I can. I want power. Stay tuned. My other projects are going into the holding pattern for lack of cash. I already have everything needed to complete the few things I need to.
Barr/Gibbs
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com
I started making them after this plane was built or it would have a slider.
I'm back and am going to try to finish up my plane for next year. First I'll take it and weigh it to see if it is flight worthy. I am afraid I might have the same problem as tessex. With all my lights wiring and detailing I think I might be to heavy. I am going to weigh it without the receiver, battery, and circuit board for the lights to get the least weight I can. I'm taking off the Robart scale wheels and putting on Dave Brown lite weights. I'm not putting the main gear doors or TW doors on but will put the LE gear doors on the struts. I will have the doors and the rest of the stuff for static appearence only. I am also going to change to a 2 blade prop so I get the best performance out of the Saito as I can. I want power. Stay tuned. My other projects are going into the holding pattern for lack of cash. I already have everything needed to complete the few things I need to.
Barr/Gibbs
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com
I started making them after this plane was built or it would have a slider.
#979
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 8

Well guys here they are. This mite be the second time for these pics. If they are please bare with me since I'm new at this. The first is with my retracts just loose in position. Then you have the styrofoam filler sanded into shape to make the fibrglass level. Next uses aluminum dect tape as a relese agent. Then we have the fiberglass. Once cured the glass is cut and sanded to be used as gear doors.
#980
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 4,948

Gramps,
The best way to get a real smooth set of gear doors is to cover the fuse in balsa and mark the location for the doors. Then lay cling wrap down and tape it tight so there aren't any wringkles. Then lay your glass over that and when your done you have the doors. You then cut away the area where they go and you have a perfect duplicate of the wing skin. If you look ealier in my thread you will see my technique. I hope this helps.
NCIS/Barry
The best way to get a real smooth set of gear doors is to cover the fuse in balsa and mark the location for the doors. Then lay cling wrap down and tape it tight so there aren't any wringkles. Then lay your glass over that and when your done you have the doors. You then cut away the area where they go and you have a perfect duplicate of the wing skin. If you look ealier in my thread you will see my technique. I hope this helps.
NCIS/Barry
#981
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 105

NCIS - please satisfy my curiosity. What does the model weigh, and have you managed to test fly it yet?
I have just gone through the same process of kit bashing, my Corsair came out at 10-1/2lbs (huge sigh of relief) ready to fly, including 7oz of lead in the nose. It is now waiting for its test flight.
cheers, Brian
I have just gone through the same process of kit bashing, my Corsair came out at 10-1/2lbs (huge sigh of relief) ready to fly, including 7oz of lead in the nose. It is now waiting for its test flight.
cheers, Brian
#982
Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Medical Lake,
WA
Posts: 55

HoonNZ, 10 lbs is a pretty good weight to have. I have heard that 10 lbs was a good target to have for a plane of this size. I am nervous about how much mine might weigh when I am finish. One thing that I hate doing is having to add lead weight to an aircraft. I try to usually put in a bigger engine or something to shift enough weight forward so I don’t need to. Can you tell me what engine did you use? Nice muffler system. I would like to do that type as well.
Nice job and congrats
Nice job and congrats
#983
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 105

Thanks Wildcard. The engine is a Super Tigre 90, about 10 years old but has not had too much running. I replaced the original crap carburettor with an ASP one and that transformed the engine into a real sweet runner. Most people think that 4-strokes sound better, but I can't accept that an 18 cylinder radial goes bang-phut-suck-wheeze-etc.
One of my club mates saw the dummy exhausts I was making and decided to make working ones for me, and when I had trouble fitting them to my Bisson muffler, he made a whole new muffler to suit (thanks Brendon!). Works brilliantly and is quiet as well.
One of my club mates saw the dummy exhausts I was making and decided to make working ones for me, and when I had trouble fitting them to my Bisson muffler, he made a whole new muffler to suit (thanks Brendon!). Works brilliantly and is quiet as well.