KMP Stuka-build details
01-28-2014, 04:34 PM
#1026
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It was a very cool system, don't get me wrong. I just have a much smaller vehicle than I should have to properly transport planes to the field. Shoehorning the nose of the plane into the car causes a lot of unintentional impacts to the airframe. Since the trapeze was just hanging out there with nothing to protect it the thing would get broken a lot. If you have a truck or an SUV where you can transport the plane in a cradle or stand you shouldn't have a problem.
01-28-2014, 07:20 PM
#1027
In a matter of fact I do have a SUV so don´t worry I´ll will order it anyway and I hope to find a way how to make it work back up. Already got something on my mind, so if it does work I let you know.
02-04-2014, 06:46 AM
#1028
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Saito FA200ti Stuka Build
Hi,
This is my second ESM Stuka build part complete, I am using a Saito FA200ti twin as it fits within the cowl and is heavy enough to avoid adding lead to the nose. I have added some carbon fibre reinforcing to the fuselage as I am going to put one of TY's cockpit kits in and the carbon keeps everything rigid. As you can see the cockpit means cutting away the servo mounts and moving the front bulkhead forward, the centre bulkhead does not need to be removed as the instructions for the cockpit say FYI. I have moved the rudder servo forward (original was waay tail heavy!) and made a slightly more scale tailwheel. Will post more pics as I go if anyone is interested...
Ade
This is my second ESM Stuka build part complete, I am using a Saito FA200ti twin as it fits within the cowl and is heavy enough to avoid adding lead to the nose. I have added some carbon fibre reinforcing to the fuselage as I am going to put one of TY's cockpit kits in and the carbon keeps everything rigid. As you can see the cockpit means cutting away the servo mounts and moving the front bulkhead forward, the centre bulkhead does not need to be removed as the instructions for the cockpit say FYI. I have moved the rudder servo forward (original was waay tail heavy!) and made a slightly more scale tailwheel. Will post more pics as I go if anyone is interested...
Ade
03-25-2014, 09:53 AM
#1033
Thanks Mr. Rabbit! And happy it was;
Today we had our first day on the airfield. Spring is here!!!
After mounting the Black Horse gear on the Stuka, I had to re-balance it and test fly.
With Bomb and Siren.
It was a very windy day, but all went well. I have a sequence at the beginning with balancing it;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pkS_M...ature=youtu.be
Today we had our first day on the airfield. Spring is here!!!
After mounting the Black Horse gear on the Stuka, I had to re-balance it and test fly.
With Bomb and Siren.
It was a very windy day, but all went well. I have a sequence at the beginning with balancing it;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pkS_M...ature=youtu.be
09-17-2014, 08:24 AM
#1035
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Hi All:
I hope some ESM stuka builders are still monitoring this.
I'm ready to pull the trigger on getting an ESM Ju87b. I've read this entire thread as well as others and have watched all of the videos that I could find.
Before I move on this I've got some questions that are kind of troubling me.
1. CG. I understand that following the instructions can have you way tail heavy leading to big flight problems. It seems that the general opinion is that the CG needs to be between 120mm to 130mm from the leading edge at the fuselage. OK, if I set it at 125mm am I ok?
2. The setup on the ailerons and flaps is not outlined in the instructions. I've seen two opinions on this . One says align them with the airfoil chord line and another says align them with a line tangent to the bottom surface of the airfoil. It seems to me that aligning them with the chord line makes more sense. Some builders may them drooping which may be an explanation for the wild climbing on takeoff that has been reported and attributed to being tail heavy which may or may not be true. So, for those who report "trainer like flight characteristics" and no apparent tip stall issues how did you set up your ailerons and flaps?
3. In many of the videos I see some porpoising in final approach leading to a bouncy landing. I'd expect that the guys flying these have enough flight skills that this should not happen. Is this related to issues of CG and or aileron/flap setup or is the Stuka just naturally twitchy at approach speeds?
4. I'd like to put a full cockpit in mine but I want a pilot and gunner in there. there doesn't seem to be much information on full body pilots that will fit properly. One builder said that the 1/6 Dragon (or similar) pilots are too big. The only other builder that I read that put a full body pilot in there bought the 1/7 pilot figures from Century Jet Models. I bought one of those for my BV141 and found that they are pretty heavy and not very well made or painted. So, what are the options here?
5. I also note that in many of the videos the landings end in a ground loop or at least skidding around on the wing tip. Narrow gear can contribute to this. Has anyone tried some toe in to help with this? What about a gyro on the rudder?
6. Related to #5, it seems like nosing over is not uncommon. It looks like the wheel centerline is fairly far back compared to most taildraggers. Is it possible to bend the wire struts a bit to move the wheels forward or is it a lost cause?
Thanks
Steve
I hope some ESM stuka builders are still monitoring this.
I'm ready to pull the trigger on getting an ESM Ju87b. I've read this entire thread as well as others and have watched all of the videos that I could find.
Before I move on this I've got some questions that are kind of troubling me.
1. CG. I understand that following the instructions can have you way tail heavy leading to big flight problems. It seems that the general opinion is that the CG needs to be between 120mm to 130mm from the leading edge at the fuselage. OK, if I set it at 125mm am I ok?
2. The setup on the ailerons and flaps is not outlined in the instructions. I've seen two opinions on this . One says align them with the airfoil chord line and another says align them with a line tangent to the bottom surface of the airfoil. It seems to me that aligning them with the chord line makes more sense. Some builders may them drooping which may be an explanation for the wild climbing on takeoff that has been reported and attributed to being tail heavy which may or may not be true. So, for those who report "trainer like flight characteristics" and no apparent tip stall issues how did you set up your ailerons and flaps?
3. In many of the videos I see some porpoising in final approach leading to a bouncy landing. I'd expect that the guys flying these have enough flight skills that this should not happen. Is this related to issues of CG and or aileron/flap setup or is the Stuka just naturally twitchy at approach speeds?
4. I'd like to put a full cockpit in mine but I want a pilot and gunner in there. there doesn't seem to be much information on full body pilots that will fit properly. One builder said that the 1/6 Dragon (or similar) pilots are too big. The only other builder that I read that put a full body pilot in there bought the 1/7 pilot figures from Century Jet Models. I bought one of those for my BV141 and found that they are pretty heavy and not very well made or painted. So, what are the options here?
5. I also note that in many of the videos the landings end in a ground loop or at least skidding around on the wing tip. Narrow gear can contribute to this. Has anyone tried some toe in to help with this? What about a gyro on the rudder?
6. Related to #5, it seems like nosing over is not uncommon. It looks like the wheel centerline is fairly far back compared to most taildraggers. Is it possible to bend the wire struts a bit to move the wheels forward or is it a lost cause?
Thanks
Steve
09-17-2014, 03:16 PM
#1036
Join Date: May 2007
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Hi All:
I hope some ESM stuka builders are still monitoring this.
I'm ready to pull the trigger on getting an ESM Ju87b. I've read this entire thread as well as others and have watched all of the videos that I could find.
Before I move on this I've got some questions that are kind of troubling me.
1. CG. I understand that following the instructions can have you way tail heavy leading to big flight problems. It seems that the general opinion is that the CG needs to be between 120mm to 130mm from the leading edge at the fuselage. OK, if I set it at 125mm am I ok?
You should be fine at 125mm
2. The setup on the ailerons and flaps is not outlined in the instructions. I've seen two opinions on this . One says align them with the airfoil chord line and another says align them with a line tangent to the bottom surface of the airfoil. It seems to me that aligning them with the chord line makes more sense. Some builders may them drooping which may be an explanation for the wild climbing on takeoff that has been reported and attributed to being tail heavy which may or may not be true. So, for those who report "trainer like flight characteristics" and no apparent tip stall issues how did you set up your ailerons and flaps?
Both the above are saying the same thing. What it means is if you can draw a line from the center of the leading edge to the center of the trailing edge the flaps and ailerons should be on a line parallel to that line. Wheat her they are in line with the chord or setting below the chord line does not matter, what matters is the cord line of the flaps and the ailerons must be parallel with the wing chord line.
3. In many of the videos I see some porpoising in final approach leading to a bouncy landing. I'd expect that the guys flying these have enough flight skills that this should not happen. Is this related to issues of CG and or aileron/flap setup or is the Stuka just naturally twitchy at approach speeds?
I can not say what caused the effect you see, however mine is rock steady on approach. But then I carry power on a few clicks till just before touchdown.
4. I'd like to put a full cockpit in mine but I want a pilot and gunner in there. there doesn't seem to be much information on full body pilots that will fit properly. One builder said that the 1/6 Dragon (or similar) pilots are too big. The only other builder that I read that put a full body pilot in there bought the 1/7 pilot figures from Century Jet Models. I bought one of those for my BV141 and found that they are pretty heavy and not very well made or painted. So, what are the options here?
I put full body pilots in mine. I got the 1/6th scale GI joe ones to use the head hands feet and cloths, and made a body out of foam.
5. I also note that in many of the videos the landings end in a ground loop or at least skidding around on the wing tip. Narrow gear can contribute to this. Has anyone tried some toe in to help with this? What about a gyro on the rudder?
both are good options. I use a gyro on the rudder on all my warbirds, I only have it on for takeoff and landing and off the rest of the time.
6. Related to #5, it seems like nosing over is not uncommon. It looks like the wheel centerline is fairly far back compared to most taildraggers. Is it possible to bend the wire struts a bit to move the wheels forward or is it a lost cause?
Mine will nose over from time to time but I think my problem is I fly off grass and get a lot of resistance to the wheels rolling.
Thanks
Steve
I hope some ESM stuka builders are still monitoring this.
I'm ready to pull the trigger on getting an ESM Ju87b. I've read this entire thread as well as others and have watched all of the videos that I could find.
Before I move on this I've got some questions that are kind of troubling me.
1. CG. I understand that following the instructions can have you way tail heavy leading to big flight problems. It seems that the general opinion is that the CG needs to be between 120mm to 130mm from the leading edge at the fuselage. OK, if I set it at 125mm am I ok?
You should be fine at 125mm
2. The setup on the ailerons and flaps is not outlined in the instructions. I've seen two opinions on this . One says align them with the airfoil chord line and another says align them with a line tangent to the bottom surface of the airfoil. It seems to me that aligning them with the chord line makes more sense. Some builders may them drooping which may be an explanation for the wild climbing on takeoff that has been reported and attributed to being tail heavy which may or may not be true. So, for those who report "trainer like flight characteristics" and no apparent tip stall issues how did you set up your ailerons and flaps?
Both the above are saying the same thing. What it means is if you can draw a line from the center of the leading edge to the center of the trailing edge the flaps and ailerons should be on a line parallel to that line. Wheat her they are in line with the chord or setting below the chord line does not matter, what matters is the cord line of the flaps and the ailerons must be parallel with the wing chord line.
3. In many of the videos I see some porpoising in final approach leading to a bouncy landing. I'd expect that the guys flying these have enough flight skills that this should not happen. Is this related to issues of CG and or aileron/flap setup or is the Stuka just naturally twitchy at approach speeds?
I can not say what caused the effect you see, however mine is rock steady on approach. But then I carry power on a few clicks till just before touchdown.
4. I'd like to put a full cockpit in mine but I want a pilot and gunner in there. there doesn't seem to be much information on full body pilots that will fit properly. One builder said that the 1/6 Dragon (or similar) pilots are too big. The only other builder that I read that put a full body pilot in there bought the 1/7 pilot figures from Century Jet Models. I bought one of those for my BV141 and found that they are pretty heavy and not very well made or painted. So, what are the options here?
I put full body pilots in mine. I got the 1/6th scale GI joe ones to use the head hands feet and cloths, and made a body out of foam.
5. I also note that in many of the videos the landings end in a ground loop or at least skidding around on the wing tip. Narrow gear can contribute to this. Has anyone tried some toe in to help with this? What about a gyro on the rudder?
both are good options. I use a gyro on the rudder on all my warbirds, I only have it on for takeoff and landing and off the rest of the time.
6. Related to #5, it seems like nosing over is not uncommon. It looks like the wheel centerline is fairly far back compared to most taildraggers. Is it possible to bend the wire struts a bit to move the wheels forward or is it a lost cause?
Mine will nose over from time to time but I think my problem is I fly off grass and get a lot of resistance to the wheels rolling.
Thanks
Steve
09-18-2014, 06:45 AM
#1037
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Hi Larry:
Thanks for the speedy reply.
I have a couple of followup questions.
1. What engine/motor are you using?
2. Did you use the cockpit kit from VQ?
3. What does your Stuka weigh and did you have to add a lot of weight to the nose to balance it?
4. What gyro are you using on the rudder?
5. I have read that the stock ESM canopy is very fragile. Have you replaced yours with the one Ty makes?
6. Over all what's your opinion of the quality of the ESM Stuka (1 to 10 )?
Thanks again. Your reply has been very helpful to me
Steve
Thanks for the speedy reply.
I have a couple of followup questions.
1. What engine/motor are you using?
2. Did you use the cockpit kit from VQ?
3. What does your Stuka weigh and did you have to add a lot of weight to the nose to balance it?
4. What gyro are you using on the rudder?
5. I have read that the stock ESM canopy is very fragile. Have you replaced yours with the one Ty makes?
6. Over all what's your opinion of the quality of the ESM Stuka (1 to 10 )?
Thanks again. Your reply has been very helpful to me
Steve
09-18-2014, 03:31 PM
#1038
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Hi Larry:
Thanks for the speedy reply.
I have a couple of followup questions.
1. What engine/motor are you using?
mine has an Saito FG30 in it.
2. Did you use the cockpit kit from VQ?
Yes.
3. What does your Stuka weigh and did you have to add a lot of weight to the nose to balance it?
it is at 15.8 pounds. Dry. No nose weight the 4 stroke is heavier than a two stroke would be. I also have everything as far forward as possible.
It weighs more when I carry the drop tank that has the diving siren in it. Not only because the siren adds weight but I have to add nose weight to keep the CG correct. I have never weight it with it installed but it steal flys just fine.
4. What gyro are you using on the rudder?
GWS PG03
5. I have read that the stock ESM canopy is very fragile. Have you replaced yours with the one Ty makes?
Yes.
6. Over all what's your opinion of the quality of the ESM Stuka (1 to 10 )?
As far as ARFs go it is in the middle of the pack. The glass is a little soft in places but the fit is good and it has held up well. I fly off a grass field so it has taken a beating without developing any cracks. It is not the lightest ARF but it builds plenty light to give very good flight performance. It is not true scale but it is close enough that if someone wanted to put the effort needed they could get it there.
So I would giv it an 8. With 10 being the best.
Thanks again. Your reply has been very helpful to me
Steve
Thanks for the speedy reply.
I have a couple of followup questions.
1. What engine/motor are you using?
mine has an Saito FG30 in it.
2. Did you use the cockpit kit from VQ?
Yes.
3. What does your Stuka weigh and did you have to add a lot of weight to the nose to balance it?
it is at 15.8 pounds. Dry. No nose weight the 4 stroke is heavier than a two stroke would be. I also have everything as far forward as possible.
It weighs more when I carry the drop tank that has the diving siren in it. Not only because the siren adds weight but I have to add nose weight to keep the CG correct. I have never weight it with it installed but it steal flys just fine.
4. What gyro are you using on the rudder?
GWS PG03
5. I have read that the stock ESM canopy is very fragile. Have you replaced yours with the one Ty makes?
Yes.
6. Over all what's your opinion of the quality of the ESM Stuka (1 to 10 )?
As far as ARFs go it is in the middle of the pack. The glass is a little soft in places but the fit is good and it has held up well. I fly off a grass field so it has taken a beating without developing any cracks. It is not the lightest ARF but it builds plenty light to give very good flight performance. It is not true scale but it is close enough that if someone wanted to put the effort needed they could get it there.
So I would giv it an 8. With 10 being the best.
Thanks again. Your reply has been very helpful to me
Steve
Good luck on your build.
03-23-2016, 07:16 PM
#1039
I see this thread has not had activity in a while but I'll post anyway. I've been out of the hobby for about 5 years but, I'm back in now and was thinking about buying one of these and putting a Saito 220 in it. With other KMP/ESM planes (e.g. ME 109) there were wing incidence issues. has anyone experienced this problem with this plane? This problem is caused by the attachment points where you drill holes for the dowels/pins at the front of the main wing where they plug into the fuse. If you don't pay very close attention to wing incidence when you drill the holes and placement of the leading edge of the front wing, it becomes a problem by creating poor wing incidence alignment with rear stab. It is usually characterized by erratic flight and sometimes can be mistaken for CG issues. A slight positive wing incidence causes the plane to fly as if slightly tail heavy.
10-06-2016, 10:07 PM
#1042
I have acquired an ESM Stuka that had been damaged on landing due to a tip stall.
Has anyone tried crow on the ailerons to reduce the chance of a tip stall?
My CG is set at 115 to 120mm.
I intend to fly it this Saturday.
Has anyone tried crow on the ailerons to reduce the chance of a tip stall?
My CG is set at 115 to 120mm.
I intend to fly it this Saturday.
10-06-2016, 10:22 PM
#1043
In my opinion, it is not necessary to reduce the chance of a tip stall. She flyies like the trainer. My first Stuka was 7500g and CG I set at 120 mm.
Don´t worry about the maiden! Looking forward some shots.
Don´t worry about the maiden! Looking forward some shots.
10-06-2016, 11:02 PM
#1044
Mine weighs 7.9 Kg.
I am using 4000Ma 10s electric.
I have lined up the flaps & ailerons with the bottom surface of the wing.
Here is the video of the previous owners maiden & bad landing.
It flew well, but it got too slow on landing, porpoised up & stalled.
It looked tail heavy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6TwMWVs4Nc
I am using 4000Ma 10s electric.
I have lined up the flaps & ailerons with the bottom surface of the wing.
Here is the video of the previous owners maiden & bad landing.
It flew well, but it got too slow on landing, porpoised up & stalled.
It looked tail heavy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6TwMWVs4Nc
Last edited by Jim Cattanach; 10-06-2016 at 11:06 PM.
10-06-2016, 11:35 PM
#1046
The guy has repaired the wing. It snapped off at the inner raised bead line. I am assured it is well attached.
I have just surface filling, sanding & painting do. I will leave that until I see if all goes well on Saturday.
I will report the outcome, be it good, or bad.
I have just surface filling, sanding & painting do. I will leave that until I see if all goes well on Saturday.
I will report the outcome, be it good, or bad.
You´re right. Very detailed, they could be very helpful for the other "Dora" builders.
10-08-2016, 11:40 PM
#1050
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Do you still have the link that you could forward me? I'm working on a Russian LA-7 and wondering if the site has other cockpits with that kind of detail. Haven't heard from this thread in a long time. Glad to hear people are still flying this Stuka...mine always flew really well but was a little underpowered with only a 26cc Evolution gas motor in it. If I ever get around to it I will replace it with Evo's 33cc...That motor will replace the 26cc without any changes to the motor mount and easily fits into the tight cowling. . I know that because I did the same with a ESM La-7. The La I'm working on now is a larger version by Scalewings... with Moki!! Can't wait to hear it.
