twn

I received my tf p47d 1/8 a few days ago, YIPPIE

I see a lot of folks here are switching out the 1/16th wing sheeting and fiberglassing. I'll be monokoting this time (I want the quick repairability...) is the 1/16th sheeting sufficent if monokoting? Or should I switch it to 3/32?

Thanks,
Tom

SVX

Depends on your building technique, and the quality of wood. I am building the TF P-51 and
used the supplied 1/16 sheeting. By the time I was able to get the sheeting together and smooth I
sanded 1/3 of the thickness away. When applied to the wing frame I could feel the bumps made
by the ribs and center spar. On the other hand, my Brian Taylor P-40 was built from scratch and
I ordered contest quality 3/32 for the wing sheeting. I figure I sanded that extra 1/32 off and the
wing is much smoother and stronger, For me, I would throw the kit wood away and order some
nice 3/32.

P-40 DRIVER

The 1/16 sheeting will work just fine. Glue it togehter with wood glue using masking tape like they show in the directions. sand your sheets before installing them. The monokote will add alot of strength and will make a better flying plane due to less weight and cost less to.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I am building one now like P40 DRIVER said follow the sheet joining instructions and pre-sand when dry use tite bond glue it sands easy.
another thing that I did was to wet(not soak but just a little moisture) the sheeting just a bit with denatured alcohol and water mix 50/50 in a spray bottle.
the balsa bends around curves with out buckling.
Windex also works well for this.
I also used med CA to glue the sheeting to the wing after having unsatisfactory results with tite bond and pins.
at this stage I am glassing the plane using .6oz glass and water based poly,it makes for a nice paintable finish and its fairly light.

camdyson

Tom,

The weak point is where the sheeting is butt-glued up to the LE - easily splits if carelessly handled or over sanded. If not glassing, I'd add a false LE the sheeting can sit on, to increase gluing area, the glue the LE to that. Also the TE at the outer end of the aileron bays is prone to damage - "pointy" - so maybe sandwich come thin ply strip in there to stiffen up a bit.

Happy building,

Cam

P-40 DRIVER

Don't get to carried away with sanding if your monokoting the plane, The balsa does not need the same kind of prep as it would for a good paint finish, rough sand with a t bar 100 grit, block it with 220 and hand sand with 320 and monokote it. Just remember smaller pieces with no wrinkles always looks better then big pieces with wrinkles etc.

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Tom,

YOu can also try fliteskining the wing. http://www.fliteskin.com/page9.html
http://www.fliteskin.com/page11.html

JG

eugene

TWN,
The LE D tube sheeting is 3/32.. Trim this to cover only half the main spar, then continue the 3/32 to sheet the open bays in the wing.. The added sheeting to cover both open bays is less than an OUNCE... It makes a much better finish, and sanding will be no problem . I have built two of these planes, one Monokote, one glassed. Both are excellent flyers.. I used the Flat Warbird Monokote, results in a nice finish...

If you are using the Mini-Wax water base for glassing, apply a coat of sanding sealer to the wood first..This will prevent any chance of buckling between the ribs.. You'll fall in love with this great flying plane..

Connery

The problem I had with mine is that the 1/16th sheeting is so thin I put my thumb through it a few times on the upper surface of the wing. On the lower surface I went with the 3/32 and had no problems.

eugene

Right, 1/16 requires careful handling.....3/32 is the way to go, and it only takes a few minutes to cut and fit the rest of the wing....it pays off with a much firmer, smoother finish, no matter if film or glass.....