gnimelfekim

Time for a new thread, as the other one is in the wrong forum anyhow. There were some original ideas for gear doors and such in the old thread, but far too much talk about retracts, and absolutely no one changed up the paint scheme. This one is going to be a Glen Eagleston tribute with a few mods. Not the coolest H9 Bolt ever, but far sweeter than anything I've seen here yet (feel free to show yours off). Just waiting on decals to apply the finishing touches. Here some pics of the inboard antenna and retract servo plate. Many more to follow.

brewmanbrett

Allright,

Here some more pics of the current construction. Used the dummy antenna to make a completely inboard on/off switch. Not quite far enough back to look scale, but it will work. That was about as far as I could reach back and epoxy everything in. Need to touch up the outside with some sort of base plate for a cleaner look.

Using Century Jet Re's, just painted wheels with Lusterkote aluminum. Mounted pressure guage to instrument panel. Wanted to do a scale cockpit, but just wouldn't be able to deal with the heartbreak.

Finally, fully inverted the engine. Unfortunately the firewall is only double thickness on the top half, requiring me to install some more 1/8th" ply. Still trying to figure out just how I'm going to implement this Saito flexible exhaust. Other bird is a sneak peek of my brothers Corsair-In-Progress.

brewmanbrett

Soon as the decals make it in, we'll have some pics with the cowl.

brewmanbrett

Please post pics of mods that you've done to your Bolt. Let's blow this thread up.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

From your pictures it looks like you benifitted from the 'All Too Much Talk About Retracts' found in the the other H9 60 Size P-47 Thread in the ARF/RTF Forum, if you want pictures of Mods refer to the other more impressive thread, and does it matter where the thread is, not.

alfa1023

My Feedback: (5)

Brewmanbrett,

I am curious what your plan is as far as mounting the fuel tank and running fuel lines to prevent siphoning. Based on your pics, your carb will be below the fuel filler level. I have this same plane and have a Saito 125 mounted inverted at 60 degrees and am having a problem with fuel siphoning into the carb and muffler because of the carb being the filler level. Short of doing major surgery behind the firewall, there is no way to get the tank mounted lower. Would appreciate your (or anybody else's) opinion on how to solve this issue.

brewmanbrett

Alfa,

Are you running a 3 line tank? I'm guessing that you have T'd your fuel line for filling at a fuel dot, which might be the problem. I haven't yet run a completely inverted Saito, but I had no problems getting fuel delivery on my Hellcat. On that bird the Saito is mounted in the factory holes, and I ran a 3rd line out of the tank to a fuel dot in the cowl, but if I remember, the carb is still below the fuel opening. Hopefully that helps.

brewmanbrett

brewmanbrett

d as in tex,

Not quite sure what your deal is, and I'm not familiar with the thread you thinks i ben-i-fitt-eds from. And does it matter that I'm from Oklahoma and your from Texas, probably not, but we don't hate the Playa, we hate the Game.

alfa1023

My Feedback: (5)

I have mine set up with the three lines in/out of the tank. The positioning of my Saito has the exhaust at the bottom of the engine, so the pressure line from the tank is therefore way below the tank center line and fuel flows big time out the exhaust. Several at my field warned me of backfire risk with this and the risk of prop injury. The Saito starts fine and although we have only just completed the maiden flight, we had no problems with idle, inverted flight, etc.

brewmanbrett

Alpha,

Just to clarify, you have a hose coming off the exhaust, running to a vent tube in your fuel tank. The vent tube is angled about 45 degrees inside the tank, towards the top of it, correct? On mine, the vent tube nearly comes in contact with the top of the tank, preventing fuel from going into the muffler, unless I have just gassed up.

alfa1023

My Feedback: (5)

Yes - everything as you described. And yes, my problem is after refueling the tank. So problem presumably goes away after some fuel burn (will pay more attention when we go out again). That may end up being my only/best solution - refuel the tank, allow to siphon out the exhaust pressure line until stops then go fly.

KojakDave

My Feedback: (4)

It's not a big thing but if you're going to try and make it more scale, you should probably start by switching your struts around...the scissor should be in front. Good luck with your mods and keep us updated.

Dave

da Rock

Problem is, the scissors do face forward, but the lower arm of the strut also has to be outboard. It looks like the model struts have the scissors aft when the lower arm is outboard.

BTW, the engine used in the Thunderbolt was also used in the Corsair. Vought dealt with the huge prop that engine needed by bending the wings. Republic solved the clearance problem by making the gear tube extend longer when the gear was coming down. The extra shows up at the top of the scissors.

Here is a picture of the real thing for documentation.

KojakDave

My Feedback: (4)

Sorry for any confusion...I meant from one wing to the other...that should place the scissor in the right direction and keep the strut arm oriented correctly, also.

Sturtz

My Feedback: (20)

I run a Saito150 inverted in a FW190. The tank sits high and caused fuel siphoning into the carb .
Got a Cline Regulator . Problem solved.

[link=http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/]Cline[/link]

orvel

My Feedback: (1)

Hey gnimelfekim! Here you go, want to join the club? In the pictures, that's me and my Yellow Acft. Jug on the left and Top Gunner P.J. Ashe with his big Meister Scale Jug on the right! These were taken last week at Warbirds over Delaware.

brewmanbrett

Da*n, you dirty dogs! And now Robart's coming out with an arf in that scheme. Thought I would have the 1st Eagleston Jug. Oh well, those puppies are sweet. I wish I could say that mine was going to look that scale, but I won't be putting in the vents on the fuse, or using flight metal. Also, can't resist putting Swazi's on in place of Iron Cross. Impressive, quite impressive.

Thanks for posting the pics. So does that make me #3 in the club?

Hey Sturtz! I'll be down to El Reno as soon as we get these birds finished up.

brewmanbrett

Alright, it only took a year to finish up, but she finally "slipped the surly bonds of earth". After seeing so many Eagleston Jugs I decided it was time for Ken Dahlberg to get a little love, hence the FT O.

Cal Grafx did a marvelous job on the vinly decals as you can see. They we extremely easy and forgiving.

Very pleased with the durability of the Century Jets, and yes, I know the scissors are backward, I like it that way.

brewmanbrett

Y algo mas

brewmanbrett

Here's a video of the 3rd flight of my Jug. Camera man lost it in the sun, and there were some expletives in the video of the landing, so I left that part out. (everything came out ok!)

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlPogVfJ6lo[/link]

I finally decided that the canopy was my greatest complaint on the scale looks of this bird, so I'm gonna put a Top Flite bubble on it. It's probably a bit small to be exactly scale, but it's much better than the one from Hangar 9, and it was cheap. $17 from Tower Hobbies, and it comes with some really cool Glen Eagleston Decals if you want to do an easy change up from the No Guts, No Glory scheme.

[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=topa1616&search=Go[/link]

Have any of you found a good way to install a dummy supercharger intake in the cowl? I kinda cut out the radial to simulate this, but it just doesn't look right.

brewmanbrett

A couple of questions.

Still haven't figured out a good way to replicate the air intake that goes underneath the radial. I love to add this touch as it just seems like a jug isn't right without it. I've seen one kit (can't remember name) that came with one, but it just doesn't look right without the stators coming down from the radial, and it's too far forward of the engine itself. Any ideas out there?

Also, with the Top Flite bubble canopy, what's the recommended way to attach it to the fuse? I'm assuming a few small pieces of stock balsa glued to the fuse that would be concealed when the canopy is on, but was hoping someone had a brilliant idea. After all the excess plastic is trimmed back, there's not much to work with. It only touches the fuse at the bottom edge of the canopy, so simply gluing it to the fuse is not really an option.

brianfp_400

My Feedback: (9)

Hi all....thanks for all the great info contained here. I am finishing up an electric conversion of this bird with an e-flite power 60 outrunner, cc ice lite 75 amp ESC, cc 10 amp bec, and using a 6s 4000mah lipo. It came out very tail heavy even with elec components on the forward firewall and the lipo all the way forward inside. So now I am looking at moving the tail servos inside the fuselage closer to the 4.5" COG. A The fuselage servo area looks wide open so servos there should be easy, but would appreciate a few pics/advice on how to secure the long pushrods internally mid-fuse and at tail exit. Especially tail exit. Also...did you use flex, semi-flex, or rigid long pushrods. Looks like a near straight run except for tail exit ! Anyone experience tail feather flutter after doing this? Did you do double elevator pushrods or stay single and let the manufacturers elev conncting rod do its job ?

hope this thread ain't dead and someone can help me out! Realize this bird has been out a long time and most of you have moved on to other planes ! thanks....Brian

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I have one NIB....it will be my second time with this plane....thinking of Saito 100 on this one..........last one had a two-stroker and flew well......