aslan

Ompa,yes it is the Dynamic Balsa kit.........but with a lot of mods.I paid a visit to an electronics shop and picked up some small parts that I thought would look good.Bought 2 packs of 1/5 scale German clocks from www.inzpan.com Downloaded some instrument faces for FW190 from www.cockpitinstrumente.de and resized them to fit.Its not "rivet counting" scale but I think it works well.Don't forget to use Black/Grey colour and not the light Grey on earlier 190s.Don't use the piece between rear of cockpit and headrest either,it was not used on this A8...........Jeeez,I'm starting to sound like a rivet counter

Ompa

Well aslan, it just looks great. I can see that I have a lot of work in front of me to get my cockpit as yours. Have looked around on the full scale 190 and have found that it is allot to do whit the DB kit to get it as real as possible. But at least, its a start.

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

http://www.inzpan.com/category_s/82.htm how bout a couple of these on her.

aslan

Good luck with it Ompa.Anyone using the Generation V retracts?

G-Pete

[link=http://www.wyliewarbirds.com/video/pf/kmpfw190a/gpfw190.wmv]click here for a fast one[/link]

Happy landings
G-Pete

mobyal

G-Pete
Most impressive. What's your all-up weight?
I've had mine for about a year. It's all-composite and I just got it out of the box fully unpacked to start on it today.
Where'd you get the markings for yours? That's the scheme I'd like to use on mine too.
Again, good job.
Al

aslan

Hello G-Pete,Cant get link to work.....

Carpilot

I just ordered this plane with the full composite option, I can't wait. I already have the cockpit kit for it and a pilot. I am going to power it with an Evolution 26GT gasser, it turns a 16X8 or a 15X10 pretty nice.

Nice planes guys.

G-Pete

Try the internet explorer 6.0 or higher, it’s not my website. Terry set it up for the IE, if I like to see that videos I have to switch too.

Here is the website link www.wyliewarbirds.com



Thanks, this was a white one and I painted the aircraft and the markings. The overall weight is 16 lbs 4 oz. This includes a Kroma 50cc gasser and a stainless steel exhaust.

I was not happy with the dead weight in that bird – If I have to add weight to balance the ship, then I do it with engine and not lead. Next weekend I plan to do a write-up on the KMP FW 190 with a picture trail…

Stay tuned

Happy landings
G-Pete

alanc

my old bug bear, dead weight? no such thing, unless we find a way of making a scale BMW radial, then, unless you want us to lenghten the nose, make the tailplane flat, and cover it in authentic film, then i am afraid weight is the only option, just get everything as forward as possible, if you have anyone with lathe skills, its possible to machine up a brass prop nut, this helps tremendously, as the engine wont notice it, and the weight is in the right place
The model handles the weight well, dont worry

G-Pete

Dead weight:

Weight which is carried in a airplane which has no function but ballast. With a 1.25 to 1.50 four stroke you stick up to 35 ounces in the front to get close to the recommended CG.

I call that DEAD WEIGHT.

Increasing the size of engine and balance the aircraft that way - there is no dead weight.........bug bear

mobyal

Wonder what it'll take to balance mine w/ the OS 120AX I'm planning to use?

dvs1

Al,

Unless you move all your servos forward like I did, and mount your batteries forward or on the firewall with the 120AX your going to be close to 2 pounds.

I used a BCMA 26 engine with electronic ignition, mounted all ignition components and batteries on the firewall, as well as moved all my servos forward.
So I used far less weight. As soon as I build my dummy exhaust and install machine guns I hope to be close to no weight added.
If I could find the right size for the machine guns in tungsen steel that would help tremendously. Solid Tungsten is close to the same weight as lead just much
harder.

Curt

dvs1

Does anyone know where I can get 1/6 scale nomenclature for this bird. I think that would really finish mine off with that and
some weathering.

Curt

mobyal

Spent the afternoon w/ mine.
The kit itself is just beautiful. Mine is all-composite and appears to be very well done.
But. I am 66 years old and have been building model aircraft since I was 9. Comet, Guillows, then control line. Sterling, Noblers. Then RC berginning in the 70s. I've probably built 30 or more kits, Goldberg, Pica, Top Flite, Ikon N'west, Sig, Balsa USA, Pilot. Royal, to name a few. and assembled at least that many AFRs. I have to say that the instructions with this airplane are the worst I have even encountered. I thought Ikon N'west and World Mosels were bad, but this one takes the cake.
I have my airplane and two sets of instructions, one that came with the airplane and one I got off the KMP website yesterday. Neither set of instructions matches what I have spread out on the bench. The inventory sections don't come close to matching, andboth both list parts that aren't provided, and both show steps that don't even match the airplane. For instance, the 190 has split flaps. The drawing for the flaps show what appear to be ailerons. The aileron instructions in the drawing identify a part as a rudder where the aileron is supposed to be. There is a reference in the most recent set of instructions regarding fiberglass tubes to be used in installing the aileron hinges in lieu of the wood blocks referenced in the first set of instructions. Neither the wood blocks nor the tubes are provided and I can't figure out what the instructions want me to do anyway. So not only are the instructions almost impossible to follow, it's very very difficult to figure out what's supposed to be used where, and in any event, how do I know what I'm supposed to have?
Called KMP yesterday and found that the fiberglass tubes are supposed to be used on elevator and aileron hinges and they're sending them to me. According to the instructions some sort of fiberglass tubing apparently is supposed to be used on the flaps too, but it's difficult to tell. What looks like ply scabbing to be used in mounting the control horns is provided, or it looks that way in the instructions, but the ones provided are smaller than the mounting surfaces on the horns, so not sure they'll do much good. Doesn't matter though, as it doesn't look like I have enough of the screws to mount all the horns anyway, at least not by my count...
I hope the guys at KMP are patient, because I'm gonna have to call them a whole bunch.
Pardon my rant. I'll try to be good from now on.
Al

phippsa3

Just bought a YT FW190 of a guy i know.
Going to put a RCV 130cd in it. Really nice model.

aslan

Curt,try this for your nomenclature.I got mine from him and they look great and will certainly do the job.Drop him a line and tell him you just need the maintenance decals.tailormadedecals.com

dvs1

Thanks aslan, those look great. I will give him an email and get a price for the set.

alanc

If anyone wants to go look, we have downloadable destructions on our YT website, click on the FW190, and the download is at the bottom of the page

aslan

Had a look out of curiosity, and am now very worried.These are different than the destructions that came with my 190.Mine has no mention of fibre glass tubes over hinges, or ply under the control horns and plates.Now...... I'm thinking(hoping)that I did not need to use these ghost parts if I used all composite surfaces.....which I did.Or are these updated because of a weakness.Please tell me I'm O.K. to go Alan[]
[]

mobyal

Is that the FW spinner from Skyshark?

alanc

ours have been built from the instructions on our site, some builders have done some mods, some dont like drilling through the composite, and having a grey keeper plate showing, this is easily fixed, cut out some horns from glass fibre board, (i use the stuff components are surface mounted on), have a tongue at the bottom, drill 2 small holes in the tongue, cut a slot where the horn should be, glue in the glass horn with epoxy, leave to set,
i defy you to pull it out, much nicer, much neater, as for the tubes over the hinges?? i havnt seen that, but will go look when i have time,

alanc

well i though, what the hell, its only midnight here just checked our site, and its easy enough, if you do not have the glass tube, then brass can be used (indeed, i prefer brass) the tube is simply a way of re-inforcing the hinge, it HAS to stick out a fair way, so you get the off centre hinging (frise type??) if it was not supported, it would break in no time, the tube is that re-inforcment, this ok? as for the ply, try my method, it will make your plane look superb

aslan

Everythings done,hinged....the lot..... as per the instructions I have.....no ply on horns......no tube on hinges......So,em...is it safe...are the pin hinges gonna break without those reinforcing tubes.....Distance
between wing dowels is different too,mine say 110mm apart,yours 105mm.my distance down say 25mm,and yours 18mm.There is something strange here.there was obviously an updated set of instructions and now I am worried.Should I be?

alanc

i have no info on another set of instructions, if you are concerned, contact your importer, all i can suggest really, sorry