tuskegee

My Feedback: (1)

well this is my flip of the FW-190A. I still need to cut out the front of the cowl and paint the tail red,white & blue. my last pics for you all......................*****Just have fun with it.. Keep Flying and kEEP TRYING

F82FAN

My Feedback: (10)

C'mon man! Keep on posting those pics.
Id bet 999 out of 1,000 of us stalkers would enjoy and appreciate it.
Throw em on here for all to see.

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

test flew my ESM last month. the equipment i used was:
sky shark Spinner
Turnagy G160-245 Motor turning a 16x12 APCe
Turnagy super brain 120A ESC
2x 5s6k35c batteries in series mounted in the spacer box between the firewall and the motor.
i upgraded the Elevator pull pull to dubros and it looks like the rudder will get that also. the rudder just keeps on getting slack.
i removed the gun hood and put all the switches and recharging jax under there
sierra retracts

the CG was almost 10mm ahead of where Kahloq recommended. i figured that ment i could add the scale tail wheel at a later date.

first thing i noticed was that the thrust was kind of light for this wt of a plane, but the 16x12 is like runing the motor in second gear so i figured i had to try it that way, the taxi would tell (that means if it woulnt take off it wount fly.

taxi out to the runway it has lots of get up and go. line it up, hold some right rudder and advance the throttle. it went imediatly left. brought it back around held more right rudder but it still went left. bring it back around and hold full right rudder and advance the throttle to stear the plane and that worked great. it rolled about 100 ft and lifted off. it was obvously a premature liftoff cause it was alittle iffy, i let the nose drop to level at 20ft off the runway and it picked up speed fast and the nose came back up into a nice gentile climb. first thing i noticed is it takes alot lf room to turn this puppy and at full throttle its bookin.

after trimming it out i did some rolls and MPT's and it showed no problems. i did not want to be up more than 3minutes the first time so i went right into the flaps. in a low pass down the runway i dropped the gear, only one came down, not to worry. after compleeting the upwind turn i reduced the throttle to half waited for the nose to drop enough then hit the flaps, 45 degrees, (when i fly i add e to keep the flight path level so i actually hit the flaps when i have enough E fed in). my son yelled out both gear are down. i was able to let go all my E back pressure and it was not loosing any altitude started the decending turn onto final and still was not loosing speed so i throttled back to 1/4 throttle. leveled off on final and it was still not loosing alttitude as fast as i wanted so i did the unthinkable and killed the power for a split second and then brought it back up about five clicks. that got us to an accetable decent.

just as the little voice in my head said add throttle the nose slumped into a nice geltile stall. i was 6in to a foot off the runway so it just settled onto the mains and for a bit threated to go over on the nose. but i got the tail back down and she taxied to a stop.

my son in that way only a son can says "was that a landing or were you shot down?

im still kind of on the fence with the pull pull elevator and as long as i have nose wt to spar i may replace it with an aero shaft.

Joe

Katniss

I'm afraid a 16x12 prop is way too small for a power 160 (turnigy g160). I would recommend running an 18x12 or 20x12 on 10s. That should make the take offs much better as the prop disc will be much larger with significantly more thrust. As for the left pull tendency on take off, did you put any right thrust on the motor?

The fw190 has a wide stance gear. I am at a bit of a loss to understand why yours is veering left so hard. Did you put toe-in on the wheels? That should help a little.

Dowmer

My Feedback: (1)

When I had mine with electric power I was swinging a 20x10 and I had all those things. A little right thrust, toe in etc. If I didn't advance the throttle gently on T/O then it would still sharply turn left even with strong right rudder. So my recommendation would be to advance the throttle slowly until it gets some speed and good rudder control, then max throttle for T/O.

Jason

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Well looking at it in the shop has answered the left turn question. i looks like with stock pull pull rudder control i only get 30degrees of rudder (and im being genorus).

no right thrust
has toe in

the flight sims told me to get the speed i wanted i would need the 16x12. but it was really fast! so i will be looking at proping up as awell as going to arrow shaft pushrods.

Joe

tuskegee

My Feedback: (1)

I see why this is so far back in the fourm....what's up........well here are a few more pics.................................I did get a good response at the club meeting

F82FAN

My Feedback: (10)

That thing is a beauty Tuskegee!
Different is awesome

tuskegee

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks F82FAN,
This is one way to stand out. different is good. and it is real markings 404th FG 79th Fighter Squadron.There is one more I like but
one FW-190 is good. I have two Ju-87s three P-51s two P-47 out of the eighteen. need to mix them up.
Thanks again.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

uh huh... So, are you going to maiden this when I maiden the Platt? I'll need something to chase.

miketahin

Just purchased a saito fg 33 r3 to pop in this bad boy. It's a perfect match....sound and power with looks to boot.

STICK MODE

i run a 170r in mine you will find it fits perfectly you will still need battery's hard against the inside of the fire wall

miketahin

Got the saito fg 33 in..just wondering if anyone would have any ideas on how to Runn the spark leads through the firewall?

STICK MODE

i backed up my fire wall on my FWD9 with another 1/4 inch ply epoxied inside then ran the leads for the xyz twin though the slightly larger. hole my smaller short nose FW runs the 170r if the FG33 has the same mounts as the 170r it will be a tight fit have you needed to pack it out from the fire wall in order to pick up the front of the cowl ?

STICK MODE

sorry just twigged that you are doing the short nose( as i get emails from both forums) in that case the FG33 with the mounts will be spot on as far as the cowl goes and now that the motor is in you will find it imposable to get the leads in ( remove it and put ignition in side and bring each lead though separatey you have need to open hole out in behind motor mount i used a dermal from memory it will still be a tight turn to ether side on the leads failing that you might need to reinforce the back of the fire wall and make a totally new hole for the leads

miketahin

Thanks guys that's exactly what I did. I made a new hole above the existing hole in the firewall and brought my leads through it. Fg 33 has sat approximately 4 mm short of the cowl. I had one of the engineers at work design a cad drawn plate the size of my firewall made from 3mm steel with all the holes pre plasma cut into it. I've placed on the fire wall in between the engine mount act as extra strength and with washers add about 6 mm to the total length from the firewall . It sorta acts like a large washer to distribute the load. it's added 150 g plus the 1553 grams for the fg 33 so I'll have around 1.7kg on the fire wall. Hopefully won't have to put much nose weight in.

miketahin

I will post pics tomorrow night

miketahin

Got some photos here.

miketahin

Hi stick mode...I am willing to buy that tailwheel. I have pm'd your message box.

AeroFinn

Hi Volkert

I know a Laser 240v may be too much for this plane..However, I happen to have one that needs a home on the nose of a warbird. At 1430 grams the weight might be just fine with respect to the CG at 130mm.

So if I use a 3 blade prop for a more scale look and to avoid the model be too much overpowered could I be fine with the 240v? The engine swings an 18x8 Menz at 8400rpm

Thanks artto

jjkirby

My Feedback: (20)

you guys tried to stuff a G38 under the cowl..I know its more power than it needs but the weight this plane needs it might be a good match.

mike boxtall

I know its in here somewhere and probably redundant by now, so here goes. What's the diameter of the cowl? DLE has that new 40 twin out and I'd be interested in doing that combo. If it wont fit I will put in the Evolution 40GX. Secondly, does anyone know where to get a set of 75 degree retracts for this model? Again, I know these questions are redundant. I'm just too lazy to read through 116 pages of comments. :P

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Going way back (about 4 posts ) I see that miketahin stuffed a Saito Fg 33 in his with the cowl on. The 33 has a diameter of 198mm, a quick search of the new 40 twin shows its 180 tip to tip (w/o plugs). All you need now is to find out how far the plugs stick out. We know there is at least 9 mm more room on each side. I'd say it would likely fit, if not really close. As far as retracts, now Im too lazy to look that far back!

mike boxtall

Plugs will stick out at least another 20mm with the caps. I guess the Evolution is going to be the engine of choice. Looked back and found that people were/are using the Lado retracts. I'm way too cheap to buy those.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I used the LADO actuators on the stock ESM gear and they work great for a cheaper version you an send them off to Down and locked for a electric retrofit,from what I have read the ESM electric gear has had a few issues so thats a option for gear the struts and mechanism is fairly robust its a the air piston that seems to leak I just decided I wanted electric gear