WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
First I took two pieces of1/2 inch stock and glued them together then epoxyd it to the top of rudder.Then I took two pieces of 1/16th sheeting out lined them and glud to the sides to make up the loss of wood due to the contuer sanding the addition to the rudder.
#56
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
JL . if you check the pics in the scale manuals , the rear canopy /top fuse slides with the glass portion .
Unfortunitly most arfs advoid this very critical part of the fuse .
I have a Fw 190 coming from another supplier on Ebay , I will be measureing the fuse from the inside , then removeing the rear fuse and adding it to the canopy ,it will be work but its so obviuos if you have a sliding canopy , if you plan on a fixed version , then no worries
Unfortunitly most arfs advoid this very critical part of the fuse .
I have a Fw 190 coming from another supplier on Ebay , I will be measureing the fuse from the inside , then removeing the rear fuse and adding it to the canopy ,it will be work but its so obviuos if you have a sliding canopy , if you plan on a fixed version , then no worries
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
With the 1/5th cockpit from dc and 1/5th pilot the larger than scale the canopy wont look out of scale.With your canopy plan I think that is more than I want to tackle.Did you order that pica/platt D-9.Did you allready get it???Send me pics!!!I might change my mind after I see how you sufferd through your canopy,He He He
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
Hey LDM, You were talking about mods to the canopy.I was looking at my model and noticed that the glass sits a 1'' down from the rear of the canopy and down from the line that is suppost to be there..How do you cut it as one piece to slide back and forth. This is going to sound stupid but i didnt even notice that the canopy was that far off scale.Guess i will fill that existing line in and scribe the corect one in.Here is another pic of the rudder.
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
Rules suck, but at least you know your not getting underwear.What do you think uf me scribing that line.I was thinking of using a heat gun to make the new line???
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
I wrote you a big long post here and lost it to a rcu server timeout. (I goofed around too long.) In a nutshell I said my setup is much like your's. I made a few suggestions on running the Saito 150 and thought you'd be happy with it as the power plant.
PM me and I'll sit down and re-type my findings from the first 3 months I flew mine. Mainly fuel type, tank size , dummy radial use for cooling and some prop issues. My only big concern was reading where you planned on running the 3=bl 16x8. That may be more prop than the 150 likes. I have the D9 spinner in a 2bl and 3bl . Also a 3bl MA 16x8 sitting new in a cabinet. Would like to hear how your's does if you try it. I run the D9 2bl spinner with a 16x6 APC. Lot's of low end thrust for takeoffs and landings. Speed is still in the scale ballpark too. I fly fron a 250foot paved runway and need the extra takeoff and landing thrust.
Keep up the good work.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
PM me and I'll sit down and re-type my findings from the first 3 months I flew mine. Mainly fuel type, tank size , dummy radial use for cooling and some prop issues. My only big concern was reading where you planned on running the 3=bl 16x8. That may be more prop than the 150 likes. I have the D9 spinner in a 2bl and 3bl . Also a 3bl MA 16x8 sitting new in a cabinet. Would like to hear how your's does if you try it. I run the D9 2bl spinner with a 16x6 APC. Lot's of low end thrust for takeoffs and landings. Speed is still in the scale ballpark too. I fly fron a 250foot paved runway and need the extra takeoff and landing thrust.
Keep up the good work.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
Hey kurt, The guy at the lhs said that the book says my saito recamends a 16x8 three blade prop.This 150 is said to be the exact same dim as the 1.20 with twice the power wonder if it is the same as yours.I need to find somebody who will help me after engine is installed to run it up and tell me the power #s are.Is your spinner from skyshark if so does it look close to scale.Do you have a thread with pics of your plane???I have read your other postings and am glad you replied.
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
PM'd you back.
Yes,, they are both Skyshark spinners. I also use a D9 spinner on my CMP Zero.
Without going into the glow forum,,,,,, are you sure Saito suggests the 16x8 in a 3bladed prop ? Not a two ?
Yes,, they are both Skyshark spinners. I also use a D9 spinner on my CMP Zero.
Without going into the glow forum,,,,,, are you sure Saito suggests the 16x8 in a 3bladed prop ? Not a two ?
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
That is what the guy told me,but he is the only guy running the rc side of a toy shop and is pretty short when asked questons.I think I will look up saito and find out myself to be sure from what I have told you what would you recamend for a three blade size really dont want to use a two blade??? John
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
I'm still curious what results you get with your prop. But someone else may post some proven advice first.
I hate saying this,,, and I see the scale masters do this too. After the judges score their warbirds for looks they take the multibladed props off and put two bladed props back on to make their flight. NOW,,,,, not all do this. And those with the big, powerful 5 cyl radials , etc, etc can run three bladers just fine. But I've never had even close performance results with the three bl. I hate the 2 bl look too bud. But sometimes it's better to have thrust and lift in a slow situation than a scale looking prop. I'm sure opinions vary.
Rule of thumb for three blade use is come down one in size and go up two in pitch from a two blade.
I hate saying this,,, and I see the scale masters do this too. After the judges score their warbirds for looks they take the multibladed props off and put two bladed props back on to make their flight. NOW,,,,, not all do this. And those with the big, powerful 5 cyl radials , etc, etc can run three bladers just fine. But I've never had even close performance results with the three bl. I hate the 2 bl look too bud. But sometimes it's better to have thrust and lift in a slow situation than a scale looking prop. I'm sure opinions vary.
Rule of thumb for three blade use is come down one in size and go up two in pitch from a two blade.
#66
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
props --two great sources , email Zinger , they make a 3 bladed wooden prop , I think the 180 takes a 16/8 so yes I would check , also check with Horizon , they are very good at there own engines .
The line looks good JL , i was thinking there is a another way of getting a scale looking canopy without cutting the fuse , just add to the existing canopy !!!
All you need to do is take clear plastice , cut and bend it to the cone shape , play with it a little to get the correct shape .Then you can glue it to the original and paint the rear portion (again only if you plan on making it slide ) Now you will have one lone canopy complete with the clear portion and the part that appears as part of the fuse
The line looks good JL , i was thinking there is a another way of getting a scale looking canopy without cutting the fuse , just add to the existing canopy !!!
All you need to do is take clear plastice , cut and bend it to the cone shape , play with it a little to get the correct shape .Then you can glue it to the original and paint the rear portion (again only if you plan on making it slide ) Now you will have one lone canopy complete with the clear portion and the part that appears as part of the fuse
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
Thanks much,do you have the capeability to send me a pic of your idea.I spent 20 years and 5 months in the infantry.Somebody like me needs pictures[sm=lol.gif]
#68
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
yes , just cant do this tonight , but a quick note while your waiting , google the Fw190 , you will see the canopy in many shots slid open , as you will see the rear canopy is part of the top of the real fuse and slides as the canopy .When closed its difficult to tell that the entire portion slides and not just the glass portion .
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
You are so right!!!When you spend time and put sweat into a plane i dont think any body wants to bite it bad because of a prop.I will check and see but if your right about the performance then 2 blade it is.
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
Hey KURT, Thanks for the pic. LDM,I still dont know if I want to tackle it evan though I came up with an idea on how to proceed.What kind of kit is your auto canopy and do they make it for 1/6 and a half or have you ever scratch built one???
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RE: WILLHOBBY FW 190 Build
Some specs from Horizon Hobby on the 150. After you break the engine in I'd like to see what kinda of RPMs you get from the 3 blade 16x8.
150 AAC w/Muffler: CC
Key Features
Incredible power—2.5 horsepower
APC 16 X 8 over 9,000 rpm
Same dimensions and weight as 1.20-size engines
Overview
The 1.50S is actually a bored-out 1.20S for an incredible power-to-weight ratio. With over 20% greater displacement, the 1.50S will happily swing an APC 16x8 prop at 8,800 rpm with 15% fuel.
Specs
Type:4-stroke
Displacement:1.50 cu in (25.00 cc)
Bore:1.33 in (34.00 mm)
Stroke:1.08 in (27.60 mm)
Cylinders:Single - Chrome Plated
Engine (Only) Weight:30 oz
Crankshaft Threads:M8 x 1.25mm
Benchmark Prop:16x8 APC @ 8,800
Prop Range:16x8 - 18x6
RPM Range:2,000 - 10,500
Fuel:10%-30% Synthetic
Mounting Dimensions:138 x 69 x 134 mm
Muffler Type:Cast
Cylinder Type:AAC
Carb Type:Barrel, 2 Needle Valve
Crank Type:Bal Bearing
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1148729/anchors_1148801/mpage_1/key_Saito%252C150%252C3blade%252Cprop/anchor/tm.htm#1148801]3 blade question[/link]
150 AAC w/Muffler: CC
Key Features
Incredible power—2.5 horsepower
APC 16 X 8 over 9,000 rpm
Same dimensions and weight as 1.20-size engines
Overview
The 1.50S is actually a bored-out 1.20S for an incredible power-to-weight ratio. With over 20% greater displacement, the 1.50S will happily swing an APC 16x8 prop at 8,800 rpm with 15% fuel.
Specs
Type:4-stroke
Displacement:1.50 cu in (25.00 cc)
Bore:1.33 in (34.00 mm)
Stroke:1.08 in (27.60 mm)
Cylinders:Single - Chrome Plated
Engine (Only) Weight:30 oz
Crankshaft Threads:M8 x 1.25mm
Benchmark Prop:16x8 APC @ 8,800
Prop Range:16x8 - 18x6
RPM Range:2,000 - 10,500
Fuel:10%-30% Synthetic
Mounting Dimensions:138 x 69 x 134 mm
Muffler Type:Cast
Cylinder Type:AAC
Carb Type:Barrel, 2 Needle Valve
Crank Type:Bal Bearing
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1148729/anchors_1148801/mpage_1/key_Saito%252C150%252C3blade%252Cprop/anchor/tm.htm#1148801]3 blade question[/link]