buz2au

Just picked up a Top Flite P47 (63”ws) kit, my first war bird and I want to make it as scale as possible
.
Main hardware will be a RCV 120SP with in cowl muffler & LADO retracts to cater for the 12-12.5 lb build with a glass and paint finish.

I plan on doing a few mods,
• Dummy radial, with cut-outs for directional airflow for cooling
• Rework the cowl or use a more scale glass one
• Open up the back of the cowl/fuse area for flow through venting
• Concealed mounts for the cowl
• Centre 108gal tank (maybe)
• Outer wing tanks/bombs (operational)
• Rework the main spars for a more scale position of retracts
• LADO retracts with sequencer
• Full working retract doors
• Concealed elevator horn
• Pull pull rudder & tail wheel
• More scale tail wheel (fixed not retractable)
• Hatch access to switches, fuel & remote glow
• Twin servos for flaps & ailerons

Should keep me busy for a little while, still have to decide on a colour scheme.

I will also be looking for advice and info form one and all on over coming some of the building problem I may encounter (still checking out some very good (also long) build threads both here and at RC Scale Builder . com

Buz2au

camdyson

Good Luck Buz - plenty of work ahead there. Getting the main U/C geometry to scale is well worth the effort - mine isn't and loves to nose over. I'm only using an ST75 which is marginal at 13 lbs. Funnily enough I've an unused RCV 1.20 looking for a home so will be keen to see how you go fitting it in. Needs close attention to cooling by all accounts.

I did alot of the mods you mention, plus lights - U/C doors were a pain, and still haven't done inners yet, but worth the effort if you can control the weight. Mine's heavily detailed over 3/4 oz glass, hence the 13 lb. Still flies on rails, just not much in reserve. Finding a good full pilot was a chore too - try Vailly Aviation if you can't get a good one elsewhere.

Have fun,

Cam

buz2au

G’day Cam, I’ve seen pic’s of your 47 in a thread I was checking out for the wing mod for repositioning the retracts, Dallas Blonde thread (I think), it looks sweet.

I will most likely start mine over the Xmas break, may even get a few pic’s up, and I will be looking for advice and guidance on the build & finish, never done glass before. Still have to get the retracts, engine and a few other bits need for the build, I’m also toying with the idea of getting a DX7 for it, more $$$$$$$$, but better safe than sorry.

Cheers

buz2au

P-40 DRIVER

If it was me and I was going to go through all that trouble and expense, I would build a bigger plane which could suport all of the scale stuff better. The TF P47 is an excellent flying plane, but there are limits to what you can do with it before you end up with something which is not practical anymore. I hope you have alot of experience flying heavy scale planes. Good luck, but a simpler build will produce a much more fllyable plane.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

if this is your first warbird then P-40 DRIVER gave you some great advice keep it light the P-47 has a fairly large wing area but your better off building a clean light plane for your first WB http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4868696/tm.htm a thread I and several P-47 builders have been contributing to I am doing my paint work now its been a long build as I have had some delays in the construction process,I have done alot of what you are proposing to do,your asking alot of yourself and the plane.
some of those mods deserve a larger plane platform so it can absorb the additions easaly.
BTW connery did the Dallas Blond build with the scale retract locations.

buz2au

G’day P-40 DRIVER & bigtim, I hear what you are saying & will be building as light as I can & will forget the centre drop tank & wing bombs/tank, maybe the cockpit & pilot as well, but the dummy radial will have to stay as carries the ducting for the RCV 120SP engine (appox 4oz) the engine & muffler 38.2oz, (gota love them 15.5x12 4 blade props) the wing mod for the retracts adds another 3oz (appox), & I believe the LADO retract system is lighter than the air systems, so call that even, the cowl mods should equal each other out as well, so no change there. Hopefully the extra mass of the engine will counter the heavy tail & help with the balance of the airframe.
The big unknown for me is the glassing; this will be my first glass bird. I have pencilled in 20oz for glass & paint but I don’t know if that’s enough or not. These revisions still leave me in the 11.5lb to 12lb bracket, maybe a little less if I use high torque mini servos for ailerons & flaps, what do you think.

bigtim I have that thread in my info file, with quite a few others & will go back & read it again, & yes you are right , it was connery’s thread for the wing mod, there is a lot of good info in that thread.

By the way would love to do a big P47, but the TF P47 63”ws kit set me back $325US, I was to scared to ask what the giant series was worth.

Thanks again for the advice

buz2au

tenacious101010

My Feedback: (97)

Buz, I have built the P-47 60 size also. There are many scale things you can incorperate without adding a lot of weight. The cockpit kit weighs very little and is a great start in a scale bird. Some trim tabs on the control surfaces are easy to do and add a lot but very add little weight. An antennae on the back needs a bit of planning before the fuse is sheeted but adds a lot of bang for the buck too. I have to agree, cooling is a big issue, you need lots of areas for the heat to escape. This can not be stressed enough, research all pictures you can find to determine what would be adequate heat removal.
Post some pictures as you go so we can all enjoy your project.
Denny

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

definatly got to keep the radial its light,and adds alot to the looks, and as you will find out you need to make a wood baffle in the front of the cowl regardless.as well as the cock pit also another light item the one from TF is just a thin plastic shell,its stuff like paint selection as well as the little things like making sure you dont go nuts with the glue these TF models are so over built its easy to get heavy fast.

pdansalvish

My Feedback: (23)

You might want to check out rcscalebuilder.com. They have a number of online builds of the plane.

camdyson

Even glassed in 3/4 oz cloth and with panel lines, metal hatches etc etc my AIRFRAME is actually pretty light relative to the overall mass. Alot of my weight is also in the retracts, dual batts, servos, pilot, cannons etc. As stated elsewhere, the radial and cockpit weigh zip, so use them. I think if you're careful with servo weight and retract weight you'll easily get under 12 lb glassed, and if everything is kept WELL forwards need little nose weight (a Higley brass prop nut was enough on mine).

BTW, it's easy to make it "too nice" and never have the guts to fly it. Unless you're building for competition, err on the side of lightness and you'll get alot more fun out of the finished product - I'd pass on the tailwheel doors next time![:@].

Cam

buz2au

G’day Cam, just been reading a couple of threads on the RCV 120SP, where the guys have reported vibration & over heating problems. I know you said you have one, so I was wondering if you have had any problems.

I put in a request on RCV forum here on RCU as to which engine to use for the TF P47 & RCV said the 90SP would do the job with a 15.5x12 4 blade prop, if this right it will give me a 8oz saving putting me back in the 11lb to 11.5lb bracket.

I’ve also been playing with the idea of making the cooling flaps (doors) operational on the cowl, open for flow through venting & closed for static display, would like to servo drive them but will most likely make them manual screw drive to save weight.

Need ideas for a lightweight twin exhaust system; I was thinking heat resistance silicon tubing with brass connectors, or alum flexi tubing.

Cheers

buz2au

PS No matter how nice it looks I'll still fly it..............I can build another if need be

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

buz check the TF corsair thread SMUgator worked out movable cooling fins for his bird there pretty nice looking,he has a sweet little system for moving them,I should add the cowl that comes with the JUG does have then in the flared open position.
if you havent checked I posted some progress pics in the thread of the cowl on my JUG.

buz2au

bigtim, just spent the last hour looking for the threads of SMugator & your cowl but could not find which ones they are in, could you post a link..........thanks

hy flyr

My Feedback: (27)

Hey buz,
I just got this kit myself am pretty excited about it. I'm going with Century Jet retracts and maybe a Saito engine. I've followed connerys build and a few others, all very informative! I'll be interested in how your build comes together!

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

Buz check the thread link in post#5 there is a few pics there, the posts with the movable cowl flaps is in the TF corsair thread thats been active the last few days again I will look for a link to it,not the P-47 sorry about that but its the same concept to get the flaps working.
here's the link to the movable cowl flaps, page 32 post 786 or so http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_96...32/key_/tm.htm

buz2au

hy flyr, I’ll be starting my build over the xmas break & will be posting a build thread so keep an eye open for it, it may even continue in this one.

bigtim, yes that is the thread that I originally saw the moveable cooling flaps in but could not remember which one it was, it is now bookmarked for future reference. By the way can you enlighten me on the water base poly that you used in lieu of fibreglass, it sounds like it might be the go.

cheers

buz2au

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

sure I can.
I used the Varathane brand "Diamond" finish when it drys it sands smooth and gives a great base coat for finishing I looked up the Aus. distributor for Rust=O-leum the parent company for it http://www.rustoleum.com/internation...e=Country&Id=3 and the product I used in particular http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=70 for my P-47.
1 Qt did the job nicely with a little to spare.

I brushed 2 coats on with, a 2" quality paintbrush, over .56oz fiberglass,after the coats were dry I then trimmed the edges with some light sandpaper 180grit, then I did the bottom surface, again trimming the exess overlap with the paper after it was dry,then 4 more coats for a nice smooth finish it hardly adds any weight,most of the weight is in the water that evaporates leaving a thin coat of resin I did sand it with 320grit after the 4th coat to knock down any little tips.

I would highly recomend reading Tom Pierces SBD Dauntless build thread on RCWarbirds.com http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/index.htm the only difference between the minwax he uses and the Diamond finish I used is the durability( I use it for work )I felt the diamond had better sanding qualitys is all

buz2au

bigtim, thanks for the info, the DYI place for the w b poly is just a couple of hours down the road, will give them a ring as I could not find the Varathane brand "Diamond" finish poly on their stock list. That ‘Dauntless’ link is awesome, I’ve bookmarked it for future reference as well, got a lot of reading to do in the next little while. Guess I’m off to Bunnings (our home depot) to see if they can help with the sealer & w p poly supplies. If you have any other advice or helpful ideas please let me know & thanks again for the info.

cheers

buz2au

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

if the Diamond finish is not available then any good Quality WB Poly will substitute in its place I just liked it for its quick recoatability and its was so durable

Gringo Flyer

My Feedback: (18)

Tell me a little bit about the retracts. I checked in to the LADO ones and even emailed them but they never answered.

Which ones did you go with? Have you tried them out?

spitmad

Buz2

The big 85" jug is not as "exy" as you may think, my little 63" Jug cost me a mottza years ago ($350 for the kit, $350 fo robart gear and $500 for an OS 1.20 f/s) with paint and finishing supplies and scale details well over $2K.......almost $2500 when I think of it

The Big Jug is available from Col Taylor (Wagga) for $479, a GFi 45cc gas engine will set you back $300 (with CDi ignition) and Robart retracts direct from Tower hobbies (US) for around $400AUD for the mains, retract tail wheel and large airkit (buy Robart gear direct from the US and save 30% +)

So for around $1200 you have all the major components and just need servos etc to complete end result is a much bigger model for only a fraction kore $$$$ than the little brother.

The build time is the same and much more scope for scale details and much better flying .

I also scaled out my 63" Jug with bomb release pylons, drop tank, cockpit kit full bodies pilot etc etc and it came in at nealy 13lbs !!!! still flew well (but the nose over on landings was a pain) but not nearly as well as the big brother.
My 85' jug has all the scale detail and weighs in at 30lbs + and is beautiful to fly and lands like a *****cat .

Once you have finished the 63" Jug , go for the big brother.......you won't be disapointed.

Alan

camdyson

Hi Buz,

I do have an RCV 120 - new in box waiting for me to build it's Me109G home! So no tips there, but overheating seems to be the big issue with them from what I've read - you need REALLY GOOD ducting of air over the cylinder fins. Still trying to source decent retracts for the Me 109 so no action there yet.

Cam

p.s. Peter Gow at Custom Retracts in NSW does nice gear for the Jug - see his ads in Airborne etc.

buz2au

Gringo, the reason (I believe) LADO may not have got back to you yet is that they are/were swamped with orders, I haven’t ordered mine yet but Doug said the 60 size would handle my estimated 10.5lb airframe, I’ve now revised it to 11lb – 11.5lb so I may go with the bigger ones, I also fly off a grass field.

Alan, thanks for letting the cat out of the bag, just hope the Mrs don’t see this post, or my whole plan will be up the spout.

Quote “Once you have finished the 63" Jug , go for the big brother.......you won't be disapointed .”

Cam, I think I’ve worked out a solution to cooling the RCV120sp, I’m going to cut out the centre hub of the dummy radial & set it back so the cylinder head sits out in the open, then cut out between the dummy cylinders & use 9 x 19mm 90deg elbow joiners from an irrigation system to direct the air flow over the back of the cylinder, as for exhausting the hot air, I will open up the gap between the fuse & the cowl and maybe do a mod to the cooling flaps so they can be opened / closed by a servo (as per the corsair thread)

Cheers

buz2au

jeffk464

I've flown the TF 60 sized mustang and the old FW190 and they both flew great. All you have to do is keep them under 10lbs and they fly like a well made sport plane.

twn

R U KIDDING?? WOW![X(]

Is the exchange that bad to Australia? I paid $170CAN last year during the expensive season (summer...) for my p47 kit (just the tf kit)