skyesdad

My Feedback: (1)

I have tryed everything from a 9x6 to a 12x5 every size fuel ect.... the 12x4 narrow tip 3d prop on 20/20 pro pattern 10950 rpms stock mufflers with baffles took them out and it lost rpm the 9x6 and 9x7 like 14000 but it took forever to get going in the air it was ok but mushy except at full throttle there may be another size that works for you but for our field ect.. this is the best that i have found it felt like it doubled the thrust power much smoother

xman2004

My Feedback: (59)

Skyesdad,

Do you use the provided 8/32 bolts to mount the wing? Do you have any problems with them loosening up from vibrations and/or how do you keep them from coming loose?
I am thinking of changing to 1-4/ - 20 nylon bolts - they do not loosen up, how ever I am not sure that they will be strong enough - any thoughts?

Paul.

skyesdad

My Feedback: (1)

I put a bonded washer steel on one side and rubber on the other side and it is working very well. As a matter a fact the whole thing is working better now that it flys well

xman2004

My Feedback: (59)

Hmm.. That's not a bad idea - I might try that....

oriole

My Feedback: (19)

Currently, Chief Aircraft has this for $399.00. Click on the email special tab on left panel and they'll send you an email listing their current specials and the promocode.

Unfortunately, no free shipping on this at the moment.

bassmanh

My Feedback: (5)

hello all,

this question is for the guys that are using electrics in this plane, right now i have the NT .36's in mine and want to change to electric and was wondering how you ran the motor/power leads ?

gues what i want to know is did you make the wires equal length from motor to esc and esc to batteries ? or did you keep the the esc's close to the motors and make the battery leads longer ? any photos would be great so i could see how you did it .


thanks in advance for any help.





bassman

jbarnes

Hey Bassman,
My ESC's are tied to the motor mounts in the nacelles with long leads to the batteries in the fuse. I ran a long lead from each motor through the wing and out the hole in the middle of the wing. I mount the wing and then the battery tray and then connect the leads to each battery. Have been flying mine for a year now and works great. Eflite 46 with 5 cell 4000 batteries. Good luck, Jerry.

bassmanh

My Feedback: (5)

jbarnes,


did you try those motors with 4s packs or because of being in CO did you need the extra oomph ? just wondering as im going to be using exceed rc monster power 46's with 4s 5000 mah packs and 13x8 props. should give me about 1400 watts.


also how does it fly using electric ? have enough power ? im looking to get scale flying from my plane.


thanks for the other info on the leads/wires.



bassman

jbarnes

Due to altitude we always max out on power. I didn't try the 4s. It flies very nice on the 5s, about 2/3 power to fly scale like. Has plenty of power to take right off and I'm nto too worried about enough power to climb out of problem. Seems like the thread is full of folks using the 4S batteries and very happy with them. I'm sure at lower altitudes the 4s would be like my 5s. I did have to stick one of my batteries in the nose to get it to balance without adding weight. On 5s pack and the receiver battery is under the cockpit with the other battery on the battery tray.

minky

Hope someone can help me.
Just about to order The Hanger 9 B25 mItchell. I would like to fit Saito 56's in it but do not know if they will fit in the cowels. Has anyone out there fitted these engines. If so are there any tips on fitting them.

xman2004

My Feedback: (59)

I am using Saito 62's - You will have to glue blocks to the firewall to move the cowl forward... that's about all.... take a look at pics, and also you can read back in this forum, there are others who also used 62 and posted pics....

erieqc

I have the 36's in mine right now and I would like to switch to electric but I'm going to run A123 in mine and I'm thinking that I'm going to try to put 8 batteries in where the fuel tank was and them 2 in the battery compartment on the fuselage any ideas or would that be to much weight to far forward for the CG.

bassmanh

My Feedback: (5)

jbarnes,

what size of wire did you use to connect your batteries and ESC ? ive been looking around and theres alot to chose from and so far it seems this wire here might work the best =


http://www.hobby-lobby.com/2.5mm_pow...h_865_prd1.htm



please let me know what you think/advise would be.


thanks.

bassman

jbarnes

Hey Bassman. I used 12 gauge wire for all the battery leads.

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

Quick Flight Report...My Dad finished his a couple of weeks ago and flew it the first day in about a 12-15kt wind. It handled it well. First landing was without flaps and she slows down quite well considering. Second flight half flaps and much better.

The next time he had it out, I flew it. Rudders are VERY effective. You can acutally fly it three channel and it looks perfectly natural. It tends to nose tuck in certain situtions during a turn. Need more time to properly assess the causes of this. He has Saito .56s on it with 12x6 zingers(blech). It has adequate power, but it feels as if it runs out of prop, not engine. He had Vess props on it but broke one with his thumb(don;t ask). He will be trying APCs in the near future. The plane rolls well, the down elevator is wicked touchy while up isn't. He had expo programmed into it when I flew it and it felt just right to me. On landing, the elevator seems to get touchier. I ended up dorking the landing and breaking the Robart pin that hold the front strut on. It broke just at the right time, before the gear ripped out. The reason I dorked it....not sure. I had just crossed the threshold and the plane just sunk like a rock. It had plently of speed judging by his landings. I pulled a bit of elevator, remember touchy on landing, and started the galloping ghost syndrome. On one bounce it took out one prop, so I could not go around like I wanted. In fact it dropped a wing to the dead engine so I could not even add a bit of power to get out of that. I hit the rudder and aileron to flatten it out and let it flop. The only thing it broke was the pin. It did however knock the formers in the nacelles loose and when they flexed, it poked a hole in the wing sheeting. All in all, about 45 minutes of work.
The formers should really be glassed to the nacelles before the first flight. I have one of these NIB and the formers are already broke loose.
My total opinion, its a fun airplane to fly when I don't do stupid things on landing. It got MANY positive comments on the low fly-bys with the Saitos. I will admit, it did sound good, and they are great running engines!

jbarnes

After a couple months of flying I too had to reglue the formers in the nacelles. I think that hot glue they use is not the best adhesive for the ply to fiberglass joint and couple that with the landing gear strain on them they tend to break loose. Mixed up a good batch of epoxy with fiber and hit all the joints and haven't had any further issues. Somebody asked about A123's causing it to be nose heavy. I wouldn't worry about it, running electric it tends to come out tail heavy. I suspect even with 123's in the fuel area and a pack up in the nose you'll still have to add nose weight. Jerry.

kincito

Hello, have any of you used reverse Y extensions? I have my B-25 connected with reverse extensions for left flaps and steering wheel, but for some reason the servos twitches when I turn my radio on.


Thanks

Juan

xman2004

My Feedback: (59)

I've had the same problem, and also found out that it is quite common especially if you are using 2.4GHz system, so I eliminated the reverse "y" harnesses all together - mixed two channels for the flaps, and installed reversed servo for the nose gear. Any digital Hitec servo can be reversed, or you can buy a JR DS821 R which is already reversed.....

tevans55

Kincito-
Most of my servos twitch when the receiver links up. Do they continue to twitch after linking? You may need to make adjustments to the reversing setup so that one or both servos are not binding. The reverser may also be bad. I have a new Futaba reverser that is brand new and was bad right out of the box.

I have two servo reversers in my B-25 with 2.4 GHZ and have had no problems.

kincito

Yeah I'm using the reverse servo extensions, they start moving my left flaps all over the place after I turn on my radio. I think I'll be getting some reverse servos.


Thanks for your help!

kincito

tevans55

Kincito-
Just another thought. If you are using the Maxx/MPI servo reverser for your flaps try moving the adjustment screw. I seem to remember that mine chattered until I had it adjusted properly and it only chattered on one side as you suggested.

kincito

Could you be more specific where the adjustment screw is located?

Thanks kincito

djsdog

The adjustment screw is located where the Y is on the "Y" reversing extensions. It is designed to help center the servos on flaps and ailerons. Tevans55 is just saying that if you have a adjustment screw on yours if you move it a little then it may make contact better or something solving your problem.

tevans55

Kincito-
Guess what happened to me last night? I took my KMP Spitfire over to the field to do some taxi tests and everything went fine. When I got home I turned on my radio and my starboard flap started going crazy...chattering just like yours. I unplugged my Y reverser and put in a new one I already had and the flaps worked perfectly again. I am using the Maxx/MPI reverser with the adjustment screw on it to center the flaps evenly. After leaving you that last message I realize there are some extensions that just reverse one servo but are not a Y extension reverser. Sorry for the confusion.

Now let's not talk any more about reversers because it seems to bring on reverser bad luck!!!

kincito

I found the screw, I moved it to both sides and still the left flaps and the front wheel go crazy. I have no choice but to buy the reverse servos.

Thanks,

kincito