OldDC

Hi Krokko,
My sincere apologise as I only found your PM last night.
Did you or are you continuing with the BT AT-6 build.
I am happy to share any information you may need about the way I built mine.

Love to see some pictures of your progress to date.

Basically all my cockpit detail was done with the use of Litho plate which I got (Free) from a local printer, it's very easy to work with.
The net weight of mine came out at 10.5lbs which includes all lighting on the wings and cockpit lights which have their own power supply. It is powered by a ASP91 4 stroke.
No I have not maidened it yet as I have just built a 1937/8 Stinson Reliant SR* from Royal plans.

Next is to join the local club here and get my thumbs working again as I have not flown for a couple of years, so will need some practice first or get someone else to fly them first off.

Anyway let me know should you need anything,

Cheers for now.

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Sam/All - Well, after almost 3yrs, my YA Texan is finally done; at least to the point that it's time to see if it flies (in actuality. I used my Canon Powershot, which is a mediocre camera at best. Have a flying buddy who has some amazing camera equipment and will get him out for the maiden.

Thanks so much for answering questions in the early stages and having this build log available as a reference. Really helped me out!


Finished in full scale scheme called 'War Dog'. Owned and flown by John Collver who flies the air show circuit in California



http://www.wardog-17.com/



Weight = 36.5 lbs (6lbs are nose weight; yikes!)

EME 70cc boxer twin

8411 servos all around

Working flaps, navigation lights, landing lights go on/off with retracts

Robart pneumatic retracts

Full panel lines, rivets, Zeus fasteners, etc details ala Chad Veich

Full cockpit details

Nelson Hobbies Paint

Graphics are mix of CallieGraphics and ProMark



Maiden date is TBD (kinda hot here in Phoenix still and need to put some gas through this new engine first)

John

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

Well, after almost 3yrs, my Texan is finally done; at least to the point that it's time to see if it flies. Here's some info to go along with the pic

Finished in full scale scheme called 'War Dog'. Owned and flown by John Collver who flies the air show circuit in California

http://www.wardog-17.com/

Built from a Yellow Aircraft kit
WS = 101" (1/5 scale)
Weight = 36.5 lbs (6lbs are nose weight; yikes!)
EME 70cc boxer twin
8411 servos all around
Working flaps, navigation lights, landing lights go on/off with retracts
Robart pneumatic retracts
Full panel lines, rivets, Zeus fasteners, etc details
Full cockpit details
Nelson Hobbies Paint
Graphics are mix of CallieGraphics and ProMark

Maiden date is TBD (kinda hot still here in AZ and need to put some gas through this new engine first)

John

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

Finally got it in air. Great flying airplane!!

bfair67

Sam
On your Sliding canopy, how did it hold up in flight. I was also wondering if you used a locking mechanism to hold it in place during flight, and if so what did you use. It is a great building thread.

Thanks Bill

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Bill, nothing to lock it. Just the air cylinders hold it shut. No problems with this procedure. I use the same on all my other build thread planes and it holds up well.
Down and lock now has an electric jack screw for canopies: haven't used it yet but this, also, would probably be a very good procedure.
Sam

pacoflyer

My Feedback: (23)

Hey ,
John nice job on your AT6. I have one of these beauties NIB and was wondering if you had any advice or tips on the build. I hoping not to add much nose weight it I can. How did the EME 70 work out for you ??

Thanks,
paul

bfair67

Sorry to bother you Sam

But I can't find any where in this AT-6 build thread that mentions or pictures air cylinders holding the canopy closed. Could you please explain or sent photos of how there used.

Thanks
Bill

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Bill,
Sorry about that. I didn't do a sliding canopy for the at-6.
The F4U, starting at post # 220:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ssembly-9.html


I also did them for the robart arf P-47, the Ziroli hellcat and blownup ziroli P-47.

bfair67

It's me again and I know it's been 9 years ago but on page 6 and 7 of your Yellow Aircraft AT-6 build thread it shows your sliding (front and back) Canopy just was wondering if you needed to lock them in place for flight and if so how did you do it. As you know Yellow is no longer in business and Charles say the canopy is not available anymore, so 1 mistake and I'm dead in the water.

Thanks
Bill

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Bill,
I used a servo rubber screw pad to hold them in place (went in the groove).
I closed the canopy on the AT-6 but on my SBD, I've been leaving it open for a good 4 seasons with no problems; of course on the SBD, the back is also open so the wind probably just passes through without any stress on the canopy.
Sam

bfair67

Thanks Sam much appreciated.

F86_SABRE

Hi,
My friend is using the G62 for the YA AT-6. What is the best performance prop for this engine/aircraft combination? Thanks for any help you may provide.

Reuben

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Paul - Sorry for the long delay in replying. Apparently I don't get notified if someone posts to this thread
As for ways to lighten the tail, I felt there wasn't much that could be done w/o major redesign of the back end. That said, don't worry about it as it flies great at 36lbs. The EME70 was a great choice. Tons of power and runs flawlessly. Most importantly, it easily fits in the cowl with mucho room to spare. If I did it again, I wouldn't change a thing. Good luck, it's a great flyer

bfair67

Reuben

22 X 10 Xoar works well on a G-62 in a Yellow Texan.

pacoflyer

My Feedback: (23)

pomroyj,
Thanks for your reply.
I have a new 3W 75 that I was thinking about using as I want to add smoke and these engines produce a lot of heat. Another choice would be an EME 60 with the starter that I just picked up. I do like your idea however, of a smooth running twin..decisions…decisions..
Thanks again,
paul

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

I had actually started with a 3W-60 single and had it all fitted just prior to priming. At about that time, I had just completed 1 year of flying a new 96" P-51 which has a DA85. The horse was my first big single project and learned the vibe levels on a big single are very hard on everything. I've worked through those issues but decided since it wasn't too late to course correct the Texan, I went looking for a twin that would fit and found the EME70, a little known brand or reviewed engine at the time. Decided to roll the dice and pulled the 60 out and put the 70 in. Very happy with how it all turned out. Although I've never done smoke on a project, I would think you could do it on the EME (seen other twins like BME 100s do it very successfully). Just some thoughts...

CannonFodder

My Feedback: (23)

Hi All,

I am building a Yellow AT-6 (following this thread) and putting the evo 7-77 in it. I have concerns about cooling, the cowl has a big opening but the exit is very narrow about 3/8"-1/2" around the cowl. I have these pics I will have to get a picture of the cowl on with out the engine so you can see the engine compartment exhaust. Comments???

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

I have an EME70 twin in mine and a dummy Z radial with cutout to baffle flow over the two cylinder heads. I too was concerned about cooling. I dremeled off as much of the attach ring as I could after Zap-A-Goo it to the cowl. I also eliminated 3 of the mount tabs off the ring as you don't need them all; again to buy al little more exit area. It still seems like it should have more exit area looking at it but engine runs surprising cool (<220F)


Your twin looks awesome and is excellent ballast too! Please post finished pics and flight footage!!

CannonFodder

My Feedback: (23)

Hi John,

Thanks for the compliment, 7 cylinders gives me some extra weight in the nose. I have also eliminated tabs off the ring in an attempt to widen that gap. Sounds like you hit the right ration of air with your baffle system. The guys in a radial forum said I need to block air flow between the cylinders to baffle the air across the cylinders. I've asked for photos cause I just cant picture that in my minds eye or how I would mount that.

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

Basically you want to block off the pie wedges of open space between each cylinder. This forces the incoming air to flow over the cylinder heads/through the cooling fins. My dummy engine/baffle is attached to the aft face of the forward inside of the cowl.
Given you have a 7 cylinder, you have 7 pie wedges to install which could be tied at hub by a small donut plate, then have the outer edges of each pie wedge attach to the cowl. For example, start with a lite-ply disc 10" in diameter and cut away wedges at the cylinder clocking positions. What's left is your baffle

Before you do all that, you might want to see if it runs cool enough w/o any baffle. If you find you need it, it's something you can fab after the plane's all done anyway.

John

CannonFodder

My Feedback: (23)

Thanks John, I have a much clearer picture of what it will look like and I like your idea of attaching directly to the cowl. I am going to wait on the baffle and see how the engine performs without, I hate the idea of of covering up that engine. I will be sure to add photo's when I have it completed. BTW, Wardog is the same plane I was planning on painting my Texan. You should post some more pics of your plane. Did you use vinyl graphic or paint? You did a very nice job on that aircraft!

Mark

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Mark - I used Nelson paint for everything. Graphics are a mix of Callie Graphics (big stuff) and ProMark paint transfers (small nomenclature).

I have about a dozen flights on it. Getting to know it now and determined it's a little nose heavy so I'm removing some of that 6lbs of nose lead, probably a 1/2lb or so. All else seems good. I started with 3deg of right thrust and seems perfect.

CannonFodder

My Feedback: (23)

Hi John,

Well its ready the final balance is done and I only had to add 6 oz inside the cowl. I made a few mistakes with the plane just cosmetics so it not a true replica but it mine. The maiden flight will be next week and I hope to have some good footage of the radial and the flight. I will post that when its ready.

pomroyj

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Mark - Looks awesome!! That Evo radial looks killer too. You're going to love how it flies. I have over 30 flights now on mine and it just flies great. Some things I've done since last post was to remove 1/2lb of nose weight, replace tires with Robart wheels (looks like you have those on yours), and finished the backseat portion of the cockpit, have two pilots now

What is your RTF dry weight? Looking forward to your maiden report and photos.... Good luck! John