NCIS

Hey,

I'm just about finished with my Corsair that you see on this Forum under the building a 1/8 scale TF Corsair Thread and it's to pretty. I want to weather it a bit and was wondering how most of you do it. Could you let me hear from some of you and give me some hints. I don't want to make it look like it's ready for the scrap heap but would like it to show some time in service.

Thanks,

Gibbs

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

how are you finishing it, fiberglass and paint? It takes some practice and imagination. What is your background with finishing to start with and what tools do you have, ie airbrush etc?

rwright142

I know what you mean. You've come so far and made so much progress, you don't want to spoil it now.
I don't know where I got this document, but it was helpful to me.
Also, Tom Pierce has some great weathering tips here: http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/html/paint/weathering.htm

Good luck!

Tony Gag Jr.

My Feedback: (124)

Gibbs,
If you have not already, you should check out the "Black Art" videos by Dave Platt. They are worth every penny!!!!!!

http://www.daveplattmodels.com/Videos/index.htm

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Good article here: http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/Tutori...ng/default.htm

Meschmidt

My Feedback: (15)

Here are a few ARF warbirds in my gallery that no longer look like toys because of easily applied weathering effects. These planes all have the original monocote or ultracote covering on them. All weathering done with pen, pencil, or marker. The Spitfire was done with airbrush. Lot of fun once you start weathering. Hard to stop! Paul

77chickenhawk

Hi.
I did my friends P-51 used auto paint for the ground colors correct FS codes. and used model master paint for all the wheathering/shade work. took about 8 -10 hours. sweet and simple and everyone likes it. no rivets, only did panelines. looks good on the ground and in the air.

NCIS

Rambo,

I have an extensive background in glass work and also painting. I have never needed an air brush so I don't have one. I paint using a compressor paint gun method. My painting comes out very nice but I just want to do something to it without having to buy any tools. Here are some photos of the plane. I am still finishing painting the bottom of the wing. One of the pictures is only showing the top.

Gibbs

wingman371

If you have not already, you should check out the "Black Art" videos by Dave Platt. They are worth every penny!!!!!

I agree with tony these videos are priceless

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

I’ve used Dave’s method many times, but not since I started using this new epoxy. I work on war birds/civil planes regularly and see things that intrigue me. Two summers ago I saw a C-130 that had not seen paint in 20 years. It had seen so much flight time that the lettering/numbers were wearing off from front to aft. I also noticed that areas in the alpha / numbers that would naturally catch water, like were the hori. Line on an A meets the aft line of the A were blown right out. That struck me as a great weathering affect, because it was for to aft. At first I thought it was caused by sand, but there was no pitting of the base coat or the lettering. Further more there was no discoloration of the edges I would expect from a sandblast affect, with a very clear rig detail like they had been painted that way.

As a general rule making a plane look weathered is easy, doing it right is hard. When I finish a plane it looks like it just came out of the paint hanger. I usually paint in flat so they pick up runway grime each time out. I make it a point to wipe the plane down with a dry diaper, front to back on the wings and top to bottom on the fuse (perpendicular to the ground). It does not take long for the grime to build up in the panel lines and behind the rivets and scratch paint. I store it uncovered for the winter and dry wipe down the next spring and all those lawn chair flying know-it-alls can’t believe how used it looks.

On a glossy paint job I add a few drops of oil to the cleaning liquid and whipe in the correct dirrection when cleaning and the trace of oil will get the dirt to stick.

As for gun smoke tracings, gun powder in WWII was corrosive to the barrel. That ment that if the guns were shot they were cleaned upon return to base and any trace left on the plane surely would be wiped down. Also any ash would look like the family charcoal pit after the coals have burned out. So I’m sure they wiped down the wing before they climbed on to re-arm, clean the guns to avoid grinding any ash into the paint. althoug it was heavy enough I'm sure it would not stick to anything for long.

Joe

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

Gibbs, the corsair looks good, almost to clean to dirty up. Please dont atke my questions as a way of denigrating you. i try to do new ways of weathering with each plane I do. I would rather finish a plane than build one. Thereare as many ways to weather a plane as there are shades of green. I for the most part will paint my planes. Panel lines help with the weathering as they are the boundaries that we work in. You can use different shades of the same colors. You can make and use a wsah to give a grimy look. model Masters has some great paints for all this. This site and rcscalebuilders are great places to find help. The tape series by Dave Platt is a great tool. A simple airbrushcan give you many effects. paint brushes, thinner, wet sanding all give great effects. One thing about building scale, you never get done, you just stop . Hope some of this helps

lovetoflyguy

My Feedback: (139)

I just let mine set outside for a few days!

saramos

Gibbs,

All of the references given above are great.
I strongly recommend going ahead and picking up an airbrush. I use mine extensively. Even more than my HVLP touch up gun. Some stuff can be done dry brushing, but other stuff is best with an airbrush, or a combination of airbrush and then brushed over. I use an Aztec airbrush from Testors. Not top of the line in airbrushes, but not bad for the price. Here's photos of my Spitfire before and after weathering. Actually, the whole plane was painted using the Aztec airbrush. Main colors are exterior latex paint and the emblems, and weathering are a mix of Master Models and Humbrol paints. Try and find good color pictures of restored planes. They can be a great guide for things like exhaust and oil streaks.

Scott

TomCrump

The posted pics are great !!!

Weathering is an art form, for sure.

One thing that I don't think has been mentioned is the use of steel wool. I knock down the whole, painted, airframe with it. It's also useful in softening the lines between colors, where the paint starts to wear.

To me, the use of an airbrush is essential. I've found no other way to add realistic exhaust staining.

fytrjok

My Feedback: (2)

All these things need to be in your "tool kit". There are many different techniques...the more you are aware of and have tried, the more authentic you project will be. One of my favorites is to use Flite Metal along the leading edges of the wings and tail surfaces, paint over it with the appropriate colors and then use emery cloth or steel wool to wear away small areas of paint 'till the bare aluminum starts to show through. Flight metal also is great for imprinting rivits into and for adding panels, doors and little access hatches in scale locations. Guys who build plastic models can also be a wealth of info. Do a google search and see what you can find!

TomCrump

Another trick for paint chipping iss to use petroleum jelly.

Paint the desired area with aluminum. Place a small amount of the jelly in areas to be chipped. Paint the overall color. Let the paint set up, and wipe away the areas covered in petroleum jelly.

Evil_Merlin

My Feedback: (13)

I like using wet salt. Make some salt water, very very heavy on the salt, so no more disovles.

Paint some of the sale solution on the area to be weathered, wait till it is totally dry, then paint over it normally.

Once the paint is dried take some 1000 grit sandpaper and sand the paint, it works great. Use table salt, slightly damp on leading edges to get the "chipped" effects too!

TomCrump

Good idea, Merlin. I did the same on my exhaust stacks.