cimara

Hi folks .Today I will go through the process I used to make a fiberglass canopy frame for a Topflight giant Corsair. This process can be used for any canopy that has the frame molded into the canopy from the factory.By no means is this the only way to do this and I am no expert. This is just what works for me and I hope it will help some of you that wants to make a frame for there canopy
First the tools needed
1 A die grinder or dremel tool
2 a carbide cutter
3 a small sanding drum
4 scissors not in pics
5 small brush
6 foam brush
7 a good dust mask
8 gloves
9 mixing cups

cimara

Now the materials needed
1 6 ounce fiberglass cloth 1 pack more than enough not pictured
2 3/4 ounce cloth 1 pack more than enough not pictured
3 fiberglass resin I like Sig because it sands well
4 mold release

cimara

Next I like to pre cut the glass cloth . I do this so it will be ready when I get to applying resin and I can do the whole process in one sitting .There will be 2 layers of 3/4 ounce cloth and 3 layers of 6 ounce cloth.The the number of layers of 6 ounce cloth will depend on how thick you think the frame should look .So for a smaller plane you might want less for a larger model you might want more .

The first step in the process is to make a jig to attache your canopy to so that the frame will come out close to the shape it will be flexable so if its a little off it will move to fit the fuse

cimara

Next attach the canopy to the jig. I use tape for this and apply a couple of coats of mold release to the canopy with a foam brush and let it dry over night .

cimara

Now for the fun applying the cloth . The first layer I apply is a layer of 3/4 ounce cloth . Apply the resin with a brush just enough so that the cloth turns clear and work out the bubbles .You don't have to put resin all over the canopy just around were the molded in frame is with some overlap for trimming

cimara

Next I apply the 6 ounce cloth .The 6 ounce cloth is not as flexible as the 3/4 ounce cloth so it will have to be applied in sections. Apply one piece and work the resin into the cloth until its clear and free of bubbles then move on to another piece over lapping some of the previously applied cloth .Continue this process until the whole canopy is covered .

cimara

Don't stop and wait for the resin to set up As long as the stuff is wet you can continue .So on to the next layer .Its the same process as the first layer of 6 ounce cloth except were the overlaps go move them to a different area so that the frame wont get to thick in spots .Same process with the third layer of 6 ounce cloth

cimara

Now the final layer of 3/4 ounce cloth .I applied this as one piece as well cutting the cloth when it tries to pucker .Don't use good scissors for this you will never get the resin off them so use dollar store scissors.Let the resin cure over night .

cimara

Its now the next day and you can gently pop the frame off the canopy and give it a ruff trim .You can see the mold release in the pic below. Some times it just peals off but if not it can be removed with warm soapy water .

cimara

Now with the frame off the canopy you can see were to cut .If you hold it in the light a certain way and the panel lines show up .I have used a marker to show you what I am talking about . Cut around these lines with the die grinder and carbide cutter leaving some fiberglass there ,The resin I leave some glass is because the cutter tends to grab at times .Do this out side with the mask on and with old clothes you don't mind throwing away for the dust is like itching powder and if you wash them in the washing machine your whole household will be itching

cimara

Finally use the sanding drum to sand the glass back to the edge of the panel line .Some areas will have to be done by hand. Sand the outside of the frame smooth fill and dips pin holes and prime .Apply rivet's paint to finish color then glue to your canopy and attach to your model

prop buster - inactive

WOW, That looks real good and seems like no damage to canopy, What kind of parting film did you use? Real nice job I will try it soon Thanks for the tip Bob

cimara

I used evercoat mold relese agent .I found it at a boat supply store like boaters world heres a link http://www.boatersworld.com/product/376800132.htm

Whistling Death

You can also spray the PVA on with a spray bottle.

Warbird Nut

Great tutorial. Thanks!

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Winston

Fantastic thread.

I will have to try it on the 47 canopy

Cheers Bob t

Corsair Brotherhood #5

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

What a fantastic tutorial! Thank you very much! [sm=thumbup.gif]

devens

Good Job Winston!

G-Pete

second to that

happy landings
G-Pete

GaryM

My Feedback: (14)

Tips on removing powdered fiberglass from your skin.

Winston, really an awesome job on the canopy.

Often when grinding or sanding Polyester resins/fiberglass, the dust will will enter the pores of the skin and cause severe itching.

Even after bathing you may still feel like a pin cushion when getting under the sheets in bed.

Try this to help remove the dust.

Before getting into the shower, coat any skin that was exposed to the dust with with a thick lotion. Most wives have some sort of hand lotion around the house. I have never tried it but vaseline will probably work also. With out getting wet, stand in one corner of the shower and run the water as hot as you can get it to prouduce enough steam so you will start to sweat. The ideal is for the lotion to attach to the sanding dust and pull it from the pores of the skin when you start to sweat. After about one to two minutes use a wash cloth and soap to pull the lotion off. If done properly about 99% of the powdered glass will have attached itself to the lotion and be removed from the skin.

GaryM

TrueScale

My Feedback: (47)

Winston nice job

If you would change to Epoxy (laminating) you wouldn't need
to worry about itching

cimara

Thanks for the comps Guys

GaryM
i will try that out on my next fiberglass job thanks

TrueScale
What laminating epxie do you use .I would like to try it .any thing to stop the itchng

TrueScale

My Feedback: (47)

Winston,

I use two, West Systems 105/206. You can get it most boat supply shops or CST.
Also for longer layups I use Resin Research 2000/2001.

When sanding poly the dust is actually glass shards that dig into your skin. Epoxy
doesn't end up this way. Also the smell doesn't run you out of the house. Downside
is that it takes longer to kick off. I think if you try it you won't go back

Chuck

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

WINSTON,
FANTASTIC TUTORIAL,
YOU CERTAINLY DID A FANTASTIC JOB

CONGRATULATIONS

GEORGE
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1

cimara

Thanks true scale i will give it a try on my next project

George
thanks for the complements