rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Barry

Stright to balsa I still think the light spackle (Red Devel) form your frindly home inprovement center is the way to go just dampen the area with a brush, with a little water and spread in thin coats, the one negitive is the dry time.

Bob T

NCIS

Thanks Bob for the help! I have been continuting to work on the re-positioning of the top 4 stacks for my exhaust so it is true scale for the F4U-5N. Here are sequence pictures of the way I did the right side and now the left side. All thats left is the sanding and then the white putty. The white putty works best for me on small jobs like this. I'll try the spackling compound for the big areas. Is there any certain spackling you use Bob?

1. Drawing the lines for the cut out for the balsa block
2. Cutting out the planking
3. Gluing in the balsa block with enough still hanging out so it will sand to a curve
4. Sanding the block so it conforms to the fuse's planking
5. Filling the large void with the Z-Poxy and West Systems thickening agent mixture. "not to much so there isn't hardly any sanding of it
6. Cutting off excess Z-Poxy mixture right after it stops smoking and is still like rubber "I use my hobby knife
7. sand smooth and add white putty for finish smoothness "thats tomorrow after the mix cures overnight"

Thats it then just dremel and sand out the new higher locations for the stacks!

Barry

Jetjockgb

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Barry,

Pics of Canopie,could not PM them as the File is to large.

Cheers Graham B.

NCIS

Graham,

Thanks for the pic's! Do they have the raised frame area shown on them like the regular canopies kits come with? How much do you want for them?

Thanks,

Barry

NCIS

I'm still working on these stacks. I have the putty applied after sanding down any high spots of the Z-Poxy mixture. Now I have to wait again before I can sand it smooth and then I can finally make my final exact placement of the stacks on the balsa blocks and begin to dremel and sand them out for the stacks to fit into with room to spare for heat. Then I can take my fuse back out to the welder and have him modify the exhaust he already made. I'm lucky he is a friend and didn't say forget it.

Barry

NCIS

I finish sanded the left side of the fuse and used my laser level to know where to make my new cut outs for the top stacks on each side. Do they look even to you? Please answer before I start cutting away. It always is better to have more eyes checking something this important out. Also do they look to be the scale height for the F4U-5N? I also bought some new putty that is like cream for making my fuse and wing very smooth and the correct shape. It is suppose to sand like balsa.

Barry

NCIS

I cut out the left side of the fuse for the top stacks since nobody had anything to say. I am also making a mold for the exhaust deflector which I assume was there to keep the heat and exhaust off the canopie's windscreen. Check it out. Of course the exhaust is just held there so I could see if I had removed enough balsa and plywood. The mold needs to be worked on more but eventually I'll get it right so I can make the 2 deflectoros out of fiberglass.

Gibbs

andrew wisc.

My Feedback: (4)

looking good barry. i will give you a call tomorrow night tuesday about drilling out struts. looks like wednesday would be best if
you still need them done. andrew wisc.

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Barry, I imagine the exhaust deflector is actually a glare shield to prevent the exhaust from blinding the pilot at night. Most night fighters had some sort of shield for this purpose. I molded some tail fairings from fiberglass using a balsa plug similar to the one you are making. I mounted the plug on top of a dowel that was drilled into a base. That way the plug is elevated off of the building board and glass can be draped all the way around it. I simply covered the balsa plug with Monokote which I then waxed a couple of times with plain old automotive wax. I had no problem getting the finished parts off of the plug. The Corsair is looking very good by the way.

Chad Veich

NCIS

Thanks Chad! Andy I don't know about tomorrow with the rent going the way it is. The Holidays always makes the Tenants late on their rent. Call me tonight and we will see like you said you would. I'll be home after 8:15pm.

Barry

US185Damiani

Barry Another thing is this exhaust deflector was a thin sheet of aluminum. look closely at any pics you might have of an F4U-5N (night fighter.)

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Barry

Tryed to copy a pic I have of the deflector on a -5N and it is eather to lite or to dark to show you but it appears to be about 1/2 the thicknes of what you are doing, it also appears to be a tear drop shape, and it has vary round edges

Hope this helps

Bob T

Jetjockgb

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Barry,

When did you decide to do turn her into a 5N???? I thought you were doing a #7.

Anyway here is a pic of my exhaust glare shields. just made out of balsa.

Cheers Graham

NCIS

Graham,

I love yours so much I had to have one myself. I hope you don't mind. I'm still working on my exhaust and trying to get it just right. It is made completely out of stainless steel and is all welded together by a good friend of mine. But we are still modifying it so it's just right. It sure is hard to get each side exactly the same when I'm using a 3W twin and the cylinders are staggered. There really isn't any reference point except the fuse. Have you gotten my emails about the canopy I would like you to put the aluminum on for me? I know I have 2 already but I just can't get them straight enough to make a slider. Other than that they fit perfectly. I'm going to use the pic's you sent me to make a mold of the glare shield so I can have both sides the same. They wil be fiberglass.

Thanks for the pic's,

Barry

NCIS

I'm still working with the welder tweaking the exhaust so the stacks are exactly the same on both sides. I cut out my cowl so it is now ready for the cooling flaps that I will make out of aluminum and then it will be partially open permanently. I figure about 20 degrees should look right. I'll have to see. Anyway I'm making progress slowly and don't think I'll ever catch up to Jetjockgb. Changing the model from a F4U-7 to a F4U-5N is more than I thought. I will make the molds for the air intakes for the turbo charger on both side of the cowl next after I get the exhaust just right. Thats Ok as long as he goes first I have something to go by. Hope you don't mind Graham! I am also still working on the glare shield as I used to call exhaust deflector until I was brought up to speed by Jetjockgb. Here are some pic's of what is going on now.

Gibbs

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

I keep getting dropped from this build so I am signing on again. Keep it going. Dan.

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

The Corsair looks great! Darrell really did come through on the landing gear.

NCIS

Thanks David and Dan! I appreciate the motivation. This is a long road I'm on and I can't even see the end. When are you going to get going again on your Corsair David? What model Corsair are you replicating?

Barry

US185Damiani

Barry,

It does look sharp!

one thing you may be able todo is add an adjustable rubber connector between the exhaust stack and the outlet.

that might save you some grief in the long run when it comes to positioning the exhaust stacks!

Mike Damiani

NCIS

Mike,

I have been thinking about just that but what material will withstand the exhaust temps. I heard silicone is good to 500 degrees. What do you think the exhaust temps will be? I have heater hose on my custom exhaust on my TF modified 1/8 scale Corsair.

Barry

NCIS

I worked on the exhaust stack area again today and the wing. I put in my hinges for the gear doors on the right side of the center section and made a new part to change the spine so it is closer to scale. The part I have on there now I think is to long. It should be shortened about 1" so thats what I intend on doing. Monday I'm going back out to the welder and give it another try to get the exhaust stacks just right. If that doesn't work I found a source for neoprene hose that is made for gas engine exhausts. I'll cut the pipes and put in the hose so I can put the stacks how I want them. I put the tail wheel retract back in so I can see what the plane is going to look like on it's wheels instead of it's belly. I also bought some Evercoat Easy Sand putty and I really like the stuff. It gets hard as a rock but sand very easy as it says it would. I installed one electronic ignition so I could see if I had enough room for the plug lead to miss the exhaust pipe and have enough clearence from heat. It is the same distance from the pipe as it is from the head itself. Hopefully I'll be starting this thing up soon just to really see how loud it is going to be.

Gibbs

NCIS

What is going on with this site. I am not getting replies even when my emails says I have?

Gibbs

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Gibbs, I was removed from the site twice even though my subscription was still active. I had to send you a reply to start receiving it again. Dan.

NCIS

Yeah Dan,

I have been having fits with the site in the last few days myself. I finally got it figured out and I really think they must of just fixed the problem. Posts were vanishing off my thread and don't know why. I read them once and the next time I went back to refer to them they were gone. All of them were good posts too nothing outside the RCU guidelines.

Keep watching because things are starting to come together now. I want to take a video of the engines first run here as soon as we get an above freezing day and I can open the garage. I think I better get some ear plugs Too!!!

Barry

NCIS

I hooked up the air to the retracts and tested them with the wheels on to see how they did with the weight. They passed with flying colors. I'll post a video tomorrow. I wanted them hooked up so I can try sitting the fuse on the center section and take a look at how much clearence I will have for the 32" prop. I hope plenty. I also finished the wheel well today.

Gibbs