NCIS

David,

I am about to build the wing tips and think I remember you saying they went smoothly. Do I need to build a jig to build them or just the work table? Also did you build a jig for the center section build? How much + incidence did you set your stab? I set mine at + 1 1/2 degrees. One more question. Did you epoxy the tail feathers in the fuse before building everything and then checking how it all lined up? I don't get Darrell, why doesn't he just give us the straight scoop. Plus rack I thought he said he shipped yours out to you about 10 days ago. Is it comming on the Pony Express??????????????????????

Thanks,

Barry

rack

My Feedback: (11)

it has been shiped about five times its realy getting old ,just give me an honest guess when it will be done

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Barry,

I built the outer panels and the center section of the wing without the use of a jig. Also, I have only trial fitted the vertical and horizontal stabs, so the final alignment has not been done.

NCIS

David,

Thats the way I'll go about it also. rack, what can I say the guy just has a problem telling someone the truth. Have either of you 2 thought about the worst case scenario and going with CJM JUNK? At least it will look good until it lands!!!

Thanks for the info,

rack

My Feedback: (11)

i burnt that bridge a long time ago, century jet is the werst ill wait out darell

NCIS

I bought a set for my 1/8 Corsair and regret it every time I see them. What JUNK!!! Anyway on to the building. I did some plankin, put in pushrod sheaves for the throttle and choke servos. They will be mounted on a bi-level platform of 1/8" plywood in the open area in the front. Also all the batteries and srecievers will be located up front. I ran all the servo wiring so all I have to do is add the plugs and it' their ready to plug in ofr the elevators and rudder. The lighting wires are also run along with the air lines for the TW retract. Here is where I am. Also I posted a picture of what the wing tips will look like with the French Navy paint scheme I decided to use.

Gibbs

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

The Robart gear on my (25+ pounds) 1/6 scale TF Corsair held up extremely for 10+ years. I'm not sure, but I believe Robart makes a set of gear for a large Corsair. If Sierra doesn't work out, I just might contact Robart to see what is available.

NCIS

David,

Let me know what Robart says.

Thanks,

Barry

SPEED51J

I just got my gear from sierra and I have to say there very nice. I too have been waiting over a year for these, but it was worth it

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Speed511

Vary nice looking gear.

do they have oil or spreig struts?? and what size is rhe axle shaft??

Bob T

rack

My Feedback: (11)

thats the bigest robart makes, they only do large production runs any more

NCIS

Today I planked all day. I have 2/3rds. done except where the stab and fin get epoxied in and where my custom exhaust comes out the 5 and 7 O'clock positions behind the firewall.

Gibbs

ngr1

My Feedback: (2)

Hi SPEED51J, the gear from sierra looks great. How do they rotate, can you take some pictures of the rotating mechanism?

Thanks!

NCIS

I did a little more planking and then just couldn't stand it anymore. I wanted to see what it would look like assembled. I set everything in place and thought I'd share it with you. Opinions are welcome, good or bad! What do you think. I still have a lot of sanding to do but eventually everything will be smooth and straight.

Gibbs

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Looks great!

NCIS

Thanks David for the compliment. I have figured out how I'm going to open and close my TW gear doors. I am going to use Robart 1" throw air cylinders mounted to 1/8" ply and then epoxy the plywood with the air ncylinder attached to the inside of the planking. Just happened to have 4 of the Robarts that I was planning on using on the mains but I'll just order 2 more so there all the same. I don't think Darrells cylinders are any better than Robarts anyway. Heres what I mean. Now I've got to run the 4 air lines. I should of though of drilling these holes before I planked so much. I still have room on the left side of the plane to get a 3/8"x12" drill bit inside. The holes won't be pretty but nobody will see them anyway. I just want them out of the way and not flopping around inside the whole fuselage. I am a neat freak.[&:]

Barry

rack

My Feedback: (11)

you dont have to do that , ill send you a pic of the set up i use on all my tw set ups when i get back

rack

My Feedback: (11)

pics ,the doors are made from alu

rack

My Feedback: (11)

pics doors are made out of alum i use small pieces of nyrod fo conectors

NCIS

I've run the air lines and now with the TW removed I covered the gear door area and am getting ready to make the fiberglass gear doors. I thought about servos and a mechanical setup for the doors but air seems the best choice especially with the sync. valve for the doors and gear. First come down the doors and then the gear as on the real plane. Everything inside the black lines gets cut out for the gear and tail hook.

Gibbs

NCIS

rack,

Thanks for the idea but I like fiberglass thats perfectly smooth and nothing hooked to the gear that could cause it to bind up. Solution air. I've used glass on all my doors and hatches and feel comfortable with it. Plus I had already run the lines before your posts.

Gibbs

rack

My Feedback: (11)

this is from cybermodeler.com look at the door links. check out this site its loaded with detailed photos

NCIS

rack,

It appears you were right and I was wrong. Maybe I'll try your method and if I like it I'll just pull out the air lines and it won't hurt anything because if nothing else the holes will just lighten the plane by maybe 1/2 an ounce of wood.

Barry

NCIS

I spent most of today talking to roofing contractors about fixing and or replacing roofs on 2 of my apartment buildings. Not much fun. The rest of thge afternoon mowing the apartments, at least 1 of them only a few more to go. I did squeeze enough time in to make my gear doors. Tomorrow when they have cured I take them off the plane and sand them. Then when I cut the rest of the bottom planking out for the tail hook I cut the doors to size. I want them to be as narrow as I can get by with.

Gibbs

NCIS

This is the paint scheme I've decided to duplicate and document the plane to. I am also going to make the small hump behind the copit sliding canopy so it is true to scale. I'll just glue a rectangular piece of balsa on the top and sand it to the proper shape. I'm sure this scheme looks familiar to you rack. Did your plane come to you with this scheme on it? Tiger Models has their's painted this way. Everything will be painted on without any decals. Then it will get several coats of clear fuel proof paint.

Gibbs