Just another Top Flight Corsair
#30
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Just another Top Flight Corsair
My first Top Flight Corsair weighed 8 3/4 lbs with retracts, and a YS .53 flew it very nicely. I bought it before the .63 was available. Now that I have .63, I intend to fly my 'red box' Corsair with it. This engine, and the Saito .72 are the only 2 conventional four stroke engines with enough power to fly it comfortably, yet they do not extend beyond the cowl.
I suggest that you try to make the fuselage more scale in cowl area, by rounding it inward. This has the great side benefit of allowing better engine cooling, by allowing more air to escape. Also, if you use a fake radial, allow lots of clearance around the engine, so that it can get the prop wash when on the ground. Mine tended to run hot on the ground, but was quite comfortable once airborne. I have not tried the .63 yet, maybe it's extra displacement will result in fewer problems. In any event, I think it's a good choice, as long as you keep your Corsair at 9 lbs or less.
I suggest that you try to make the fuselage more scale in cowl area, by rounding it inward. This has the great side benefit of allowing better engine cooling, by allowing more air to escape. Also, if you use a fake radial, allow lots of clearance around the engine, so that it can get the prop wash when on the ground. Mine tended to run hot on the ground, but was quite comfortable once airborne. I have not tried the .63 yet, maybe it's extra displacement will result in fewer problems. In any event, I think it's a good choice, as long as you keep your Corsair at 9 lbs or less.
#31
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When I started building my Corsair I noticed a lot of other people on RCU building the same kit. I learned some things and it was always a good source of encouragement. How about some pictures of those kits that are still in progress? I'd like to see them.
#32
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Devo:
Looks great, but how does it fly?
I'm also building a tf corsair with a saito 120 and was wondering If you could give more details on how you setup the engine/fule tank /cowl. Installing the engine inverted seems to put the carb too low under the tank, I haven't tested this setup so I'm not sure pleas tell me what you did.
I'd also like to know how you cut the monokote, how many parts for the wing and fuz?
This is my first warbird and its been a while since I started on it (finished first year in university).
Looks great, but how does it fly?
I'm also building a tf corsair with a saito 120 and was wondering If you could give more details on how you setup the engine/fule tank /cowl. Installing the engine inverted seems to put the carb too low under the tank, I haven't tested this setup so I'm not sure pleas tell me what you did.
I'd also like to know how you cut the monokote, how many parts for the wing and fuz?
This is my first warbird and its been a while since I started on it (finished first year in university).
#33
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zcorsair, I too looked at the plans for a long time trying to decide the best angle to mount the engine. I wanted to hide the rocker covers as much as possible and I felt the best way would be to hide them on the bottom (inverted). This brings up a whole host of problems because there is no easy way to lower the fuel tank. The easiest way to solve that problem is with a Cline regulator. But then you have the exhaust sticking out of the left side of the fuselage, and I really didn't like that, so I mounted the engine 45% from inverted and cut a hole through the firewall for the exhaust. This puts the center of the tank dead center with the carb. It also puts the exhaust valve on the very bottom instead of the glow plug. This keeps the engine from loading up when idling. Also it conceals the exhaust and places it in the scale location. I then painted the rocker covers with the same blue I used on the cowl.
I'm using the dummy radial which made it impossible to remove the cowl if done per the plan. My fix was to screw the cowl halves together instead of gluing them. I added blocks to my radial/baffle and screwed that to the cowl also. the whole thing comes apart and gives the movement needed to clear the rockers without any engine disassembly.
The Monocote job was an exercise in heat gun patience. I started on the bottom of the wing. One piece each on the left lower wing then the right. Then one small piece to cover the belly pan. Flip the wing over and again one piece right and one left and a small piece in the center. This takes a lot of stretching and shrinking. Not a beginners covering job for sure. Keep the heat away from those oil coolers! The fuselage was done by first covering the stabilizers then the aft half of the fuse in one piece then the forward half of the fuse with another.
Unfortunately I still haven't flown it, only engine runs and taxi tests, but when I do I will post the results on this thread.
I'm using the dummy radial which made it impossible to remove the cowl if done per the plan. My fix was to screw the cowl halves together instead of gluing them. I added blocks to my radial/baffle and screwed that to the cowl also. the whole thing comes apart and gives the movement needed to clear the rockers without any engine disassembly.
The Monocote job was an exercise in heat gun patience. I started on the bottom of the wing. One piece each on the left lower wing then the right. Then one small piece to cover the belly pan. Flip the wing over and again one piece right and one left and a small piece in the center. This takes a lot of stretching and shrinking. Not a beginners covering job for sure. Keep the heat away from those oil coolers! The fuselage was done by first covering the stabilizers then the aft half of the fuse in one piece then the forward half of the fuse with another.
Unfortunately I still haven't flown it, only engine runs and taxi tests, but when I do I will post the results on this thread.