More progress on my Bates SBD!
04-26-2003, 12:32 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
Well, I got it. It took a while but I eventually figured out a mounting method and it's locked in there tight as a drum and perfectly aligned. I think I've got good air inlet, but may open it up a little more with the Dremel. Don't want "too much" since I want to keep at least a 2:1 ratio of exit to entry air.
I've got a good half inch of clearance between the backside of the dummy and the front of my 3.2 and muffler... should be OK. I also built a pretty complex array of baffles onto the back of the dummy to direct all air flow over the cylinder & muffler, as well as "away from' the carb intake.
Next is painting and detailing the dummy. I don't know if I'll end up putting the crankcase detail in, since it looks like it will block my primary inlet directly to the cylinder.
Neo
I've got a good half inch of clearance between the backside of the dummy and the front of my 3.2 and muffler... should be OK. I also built a pretty complex array of baffles onto the back of the dummy to direct all air flow over the cylinder & muffler, as well as "away from' the carb intake.
Next is painting and detailing the dummy. I don't know if I'll end up putting the crankcase detail in, since it looks like it will block my primary inlet directly to the cylinder.
Neo
04-26-2003, 08:34 PM
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Bomb trapeze
While going through Robart's web site, they offer a SBD bomb trapeze but it's for the Ziroli size SBD. It's on the 20-55 pound gear page, #SBDZTRP @ $115. Here's a picture for 'ya anyway.
05-05-2003, 08:12 PM
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Dummy Radial done
Well I got my Frank Tiano radial dummy for my Dauntless in, detailed it and installed it. Here's some pics of it, but you can see more and better pics following it from the shipping box all the way through final installation at:
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm...ding/dummy.htm
Neo
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm...ding/dummy.htm
Neo
05-05-2003, 09:33 PM
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Dummy
Neo, Outstanding job on the dummy radial. You have me inspired to do the same on my next radial engined project. BTW, I am also an aircraft mechanic and I believe the unidentified object that goes on the nose case of the engine is the prop governor. On the real thing, there are control cables coming out of the rear of the governor and running to the cockpit. Can you describe in detail how you did the distressing and weathering?
Thanks,
Evan Q.
Thanks,
Evan Q.
05-05-2003, 10:38 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
NEO,
The dummy engine looks great! You're getting me inpired to install one on mine. How are you planning to direct the air over your model engine? That always concerned me about dummy engines.
Jim
The dummy engine looks great! You're getting me inpired to install one on mine. How are you planning to direct the air over your model engine? That always concerned me about dummy engines.
Jim
05-05-2003, 10:48 PM
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Dummy Radial
Neo, That looks sweet! I really like the idea of the ply backplate cut out for "discreet" air. Your website should be made into a book. Keep up the great work!
I'd like to do someone's dummy radial on my Bates Bearcat and was wondering if you chose Tiano's because you needed the weight, or because of the price? I like the look of Aerotech's but it is over twice as much. Just wondered if you had a 2nd choice.
Oh, BTW... you may want to check your web for a funny typo...
"This should have put my dead nuts on, but unfortunately..."
I'd like to do someone's dummy radial on my Bates Bearcat and was wondering if you chose Tiano's because you needed the weight, or because of the price? I like the look of Aerotech's but it is over twice as much. Just wondered if you had a 2nd choice.
Oh, BTW... you may want to check your web for a funny typo...
"This should have put my dead nuts on, but unfortunately..."
05-06-2003, 03:43 AM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
Thanks guys, glad you liked it. If you haven't already, be sure to follow my link to the article I put on my SBD site documenting the whole process I went through. It should answer most of your questions.
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm...ding/dummy.htm
FW190,
Weathering and distressing is an art that I learned over many years of competing in IPMS competition. I spent most of my time doing 1/35 scale figures, ground vehicles and dioramas. That means you deal with wear & tear items, dirt, weathering & distress quite a bit. It's difficult to explain, and would take a longer document/platform than this thread to do justice. I'll try to give you a short summary...
Once you've got a good base coat of color laid down (usually sprayed in enamels) you can start refining your colors. The base coat should make each component of the subject close to the final color, but that's it. I then start applying washes of color with a small brush to begin "persuading" the color to lean to different shades in different areas, depending on estimated exposure to wind & sun as well as wear & tear. This is usually done with extremely thinned down water-based acrylic hobby paints. I usually use them since they're easier to work with and dry quick. Also, most of the modern hobby acrylics and enamels are formulated to stick to nearly anything and are very resilient.
I apply them with a small brush on something like this dummy since the components are too small to airbrush. Also, it allows me to apply it in strokes that create the "texture" of wind wear, velocity, and sometimes simulates the application of paint repairs in the field with a brush (in scale).
I usually work the darker colors down into deep relief (like between the radial fins) and work my way up to lighter colors for high spots (top edges of the fins). This produces maximum 3D effect. Study photos of worn and well used engines and you'll see how rust, scratches and oil stains accumulate in certain areas... try to emulate this. Remember, things like oil, water and wind will streak in the direction of travel more so than from gravity, since they occur mostly in flight. Also, a little silver can go a long way in adding some paint chips and scratches in just the right spots... just don't overdo it.
The main thing is to emulate natural wear and tear, don't force it on the subject and make it look beat up. Once the thinned washes of color persuasion have gotten the background set to the right colors and shades, you fine tune the detail in by using light pressure gently stroking the highlights with an almost dry brush. This drybrushing technique is the majority of what makes it all come together. Your really just bringing out the detail with highlight colors and adding a few last minute stress signs here and there.
Tmoth,
Take a look at my article, there are pics of my baffles there. The general idea is to use the cutout/open areas between the cylinders to allow air in, mostly in the bottom half of the radial. Next you have to have some light ply panels glued to the back of the dummy at various angles to direct the air where you want it to go after passing through the dummy.
In most cases, you look at the dummy mounted on the prop shaft without the cowl on, and determine the proper angle of deflection for each opening. This angle will be different for each opening, and should direct the air mostly at the cylinder head, and some at the muffler too. Build up the baffle for each opening, one at a time and move to the next. Look at it from the front and top... make sure it looks like the air will deflect where you want it to go.
If your carb velocity stack is inside the cowl, you'll want to direct the air coming in directly in front of the carb so that it deflects away from it. This minimizes or eliminates the venturi effect that is caused when the air rushing over the carb sucks gas out of it. Don't forget the main rule of thumb, you want twice as much air leaving the cowl as you have entering it. This creates a vaccuum effect that continually pulls the hot air out and replaces it with new cool air.
Wide open radial cowls without a dummy have a tremendous amount of air rushing in and very little exit area. This creates a "pressure bubble" inside the cowl that effectively prohibits fresh cool air from passing over the cylinder. A big ol' hole at the bottom of the cowl (like I had to cut) helps move the air out too!
This works well in the wide open spaces of a radial cowl, but in tighter configurations like that of an FW109, Mustang, Spitfire, etc., many guys will use an even smaller opening, and constrict the airflow around the engine to a smaller area. This area is confined by walls that surround the entire engine compartment very close to the engine and feed back to a larger exit hole. This creates a venturi effect that sucks air rapidly along the engine and out the exit. Remember it's not really the size of the opening that cools the engine, it's the air exchange rate and path of airflow.
Dave,
I didn't look at the Aerotech dummy, I didn't know they had one! I was swaying between the Tiano dummy and the Williams Bros version. These were my evaluation considerations:
Construction: Tiano was much more durable than WmsBros since it was solid resin vs styrene. Tiano was a simpler/faster build since it didn't require assembly of 140 pieces.
Model: The Tiano radial was modeled after an engine extremely close to the one in my SBD (1,200 hp R-1820-60). The Wms Bros radial was quite different (Wasp).
Appearance/Quality: The Wms Bros radial was much more detailed and realistic. Much higher quality molds.
Price: Tiano's was half the price of Wms Bros.
Weight: Tiano's was WAY heavier (12 oz stock). But, I knew I'd need the nose weight anyway.
Considering all these points I went with the Tiano version. It was almost exactly like the engine in the SBD, very durable, inexpensive, and ultimately I knew I'd need the nose weight. I'd rather add 13 ounces of detail at the end of my cowl than add 20 ounces of lead on the firewall!
Neo
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm...ding/dummy.htm
FW190,
Weathering and distressing is an art that I learned over many years of competing in IPMS competition. I spent most of my time doing 1/35 scale figures, ground vehicles and dioramas. That means you deal with wear & tear items, dirt, weathering & distress quite a bit. It's difficult to explain, and would take a longer document/platform than this thread to do justice. I'll try to give you a short summary...
Once you've got a good base coat of color laid down (usually sprayed in enamels) you can start refining your colors. The base coat should make each component of the subject close to the final color, but that's it. I then start applying washes of color with a small brush to begin "persuading" the color to lean to different shades in different areas, depending on estimated exposure to wind & sun as well as wear & tear. This is usually done with extremely thinned down water-based acrylic hobby paints. I usually use them since they're easier to work with and dry quick. Also, most of the modern hobby acrylics and enamels are formulated to stick to nearly anything and are very resilient.
I apply them with a small brush on something like this dummy since the components are too small to airbrush. Also, it allows me to apply it in strokes that create the "texture" of wind wear, velocity, and sometimes simulates the application of paint repairs in the field with a brush (in scale).
I usually work the darker colors down into deep relief (like between the radial fins) and work my way up to lighter colors for high spots (top edges of the fins). This produces maximum 3D effect. Study photos of worn and well used engines and you'll see how rust, scratches and oil stains accumulate in certain areas... try to emulate this. Remember, things like oil, water and wind will streak in the direction of travel more so than from gravity, since they occur mostly in flight. Also, a little silver can go a long way in adding some paint chips and scratches in just the right spots... just don't overdo it.
The main thing is to emulate natural wear and tear, don't force it on the subject and make it look beat up. Once the thinned washes of color persuasion have gotten the background set to the right colors and shades, you fine tune the detail in by using light pressure gently stroking the highlights with an almost dry brush. This drybrushing technique is the majority of what makes it all come together. Your really just bringing out the detail with highlight colors and adding a few last minute stress signs here and there.
Tmoth,
Take a look at my article, there are pics of my baffles there. The general idea is to use the cutout/open areas between the cylinders to allow air in, mostly in the bottom half of the radial. Next you have to have some light ply panels glued to the back of the dummy at various angles to direct the air where you want it to go after passing through the dummy.
In most cases, you look at the dummy mounted on the prop shaft without the cowl on, and determine the proper angle of deflection for each opening. This angle will be different for each opening, and should direct the air mostly at the cylinder head, and some at the muffler too. Build up the baffle for each opening, one at a time and move to the next. Look at it from the front and top... make sure it looks like the air will deflect where you want it to go.
If your carb velocity stack is inside the cowl, you'll want to direct the air coming in directly in front of the carb so that it deflects away from it. This minimizes or eliminates the venturi effect that is caused when the air rushing over the carb sucks gas out of it. Don't forget the main rule of thumb, you want twice as much air leaving the cowl as you have entering it. This creates a vaccuum effect that continually pulls the hot air out and replaces it with new cool air.
Wide open radial cowls without a dummy have a tremendous amount of air rushing in and very little exit area. This creates a "pressure bubble" inside the cowl that effectively prohibits fresh cool air from passing over the cylinder. A big ol' hole at the bottom of the cowl (like I had to cut) helps move the air out too!
This works well in the wide open spaces of a radial cowl, but in tighter configurations like that of an FW109, Mustang, Spitfire, etc., many guys will use an even smaller opening, and constrict the airflow around the engine to a smaller area. This area is confined by walls that surround the entire engine compartment very close to the engine and feed back to a larger exit hole. This creates a venturi effect that sucks air rapidly along the engine and out the exit. Remember it's not really the size of the opening that cools the engine, it's the air exchange rate and path of airflow.
Dave,
I didn't look at the Aerotech dummy, I didn't know they had one! I was swaying between the Tiano dummy and the Williams Bros version. These were my evaluation considerations:
Construction: Tiano was much more durable than WmsBros since it was solid resin vs styrene. Tiano was a simpler/faster build since it didn't require assembly of 140 pieces.
Model: The Tiano radial was modeled after an engine extremely close to the one in my SBD (1,200 hp R-1820-60). The Wms Bros radial was quite different (Wasp).
Appearance/Quality: The Wms Bros radial was much more detailed and realistic. Much higher quality molds.
Price: Tiano's was half the price of Wms Bros.
Weight: Tiano's was WAY heavier (12 oz stock). But, I knew I'd need the nose weight anyway.
Considering all these points I went with the Tiano version. It was almost exactly like the engine in the SBD, very durable, inexpensive, and ultimately I knew I'd need the nose weight. I'd rather add 13 ounces of detail at the end of my cowl than add 20 ounces of lead on the firewall!
Neo
07-07-2003, 03:41 PM
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RETRACTS, FLAPS AND DIVE BRAKES
More progress on the SBD...
Got the Robart retracts installed and tested... work great. Also got the 5 flaps and dive brakes redesigned for a "5-dedicated-servo" configurations. They're all "temporarily" installed and working great too. Here's a pic of the flaps thrown into full dive position. You can check out my full online documentation of the retract and flap installation, starting at:
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm...g/retracts.htm
Enjoy,
Neo
Got the Robart retracts installed and tested... work great. Also got the 5 flaps and dive brakes redesigned for a "5-dedicated-servo" configurations. They're all "temporarily" installed and working great too. Here's a pic of the flaps thrown into full dive position. You can check out my full online documentation of the retract and flap installation, starting at:
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm...g/retracts.htm
Enjoy,
Neo
07-07-2003, 04:26 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
Bob,
Thanks... you have no idea! I'm dying to pant this bird. Don't look forward to the 10,000 or so rivets though!
Thanks,
Neo
Thanks... you have no idea! I'm dying to pant this bird. Don't look forward to the 10,000 or so rivets though!
Thanks,
Neo
07-07-2003, 05:37 PM
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rivets
Neo, I know how you feel. I cant wait to lay some paint on the 109 but Ive still got about 8000 or so rivets left to do. I have the left wing on the 109 fully riveted. It took me about 3 hours to do just one wing. So I figure you got about 15 hours of riveting coming up.
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/me109page5.html
Great job on the dive brakes, they do look cool!
Evan Q.
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/me109page5.html
Great job on the dive brakes, they do look cool!
Evan Q.
07-07-2003, 05:55 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
Tom,
I see you've been working like gangbusters lately! You're catching up fast to mine. Looks like you decided on the brighter red for the divebrakes, right? I did mine in the brighter red too.
Mine is ready to paint but I decided to do some raised panel edges first. I'm not doing all the raised rivets but I figured I better do the panel edges because they're pretty evident on the real one even from a distance.
Since our discussion about colors at the MAPS show, I grayed down my intermediate blue a little and darkened the sea blue slightly. I haven't been working on my Dauntless that much lately because with the change in weather I can actually go flying now!
Jim
I see you've been working like gangbusters lately! You're catching up fast to mine. Looks like you decided on the brighter red for the divebrakes, right? I did mine in the brighter red too.
Mine is ready to paint but I decided to do some raised panel edges first. I'm not doing all the raised rivets but I figured I better do the panel edges because they're pretty evident on the real one even from a distance.
Since our discussion about colors at the MAPS show, I grayed down my intermediate blue a little and darkened the sea blue slightly. I haven't been working on my Dauntless that much lately because with the change in weather I can actually go flying now!
Jim
07-07-2003, 06:53 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
FW109,
Thanks... I checked out your recent work on the ME109... unfreakin-believable! Absolutely gorgeous work, that's going to be a tough plane to beat by any standards. Thanks for the link to the page, I can't get to your pages without direct links (your site is not "Mac-friendly"... home page buttons don't work on a Mac).
Mill,
Too kind... thanks.
Tmoth,
Good to hear from you again... it was great to see you (and the SBD) at the MAPS show! What a ball that was... still need to get my photos and video uploaded some day.
Yes, I did a lot of web-searching about that "red" issue. The IPMS guys and some contacts from the CV6 organization led me towards the "Bright Red" vs the Insignia Red. My weathering will tame it down some though, but still will be much more "red" than that "cedar" color of Insig Red.
I figured you might go back and adjust your tri-color scheme after seeing the planes at the MAPS show. I think you'll be much happier with those colors anyway.
Ditto on the flying vs building. I'd still rather be in the air than on the boards if at all possible. We have had a lot of rain lately, so I managed to get some time back on the SBD project again. Need some more servo extensions and I'm about ready to sheet up the bottom of that wing.
C-ya all,
Neo
Thanks... I checked out your recent work on the ME109... unfreakin-believable! Absolutely gorgeous work, that's going to be a tough plane to beat by any standards. Thanks for the link to the page, I can't get to your pages without direct links (your site is not "Mac-friendly"... home page buttons don't work on a Mac).
Mill,
Too kind... thanks.
Tmoth,
Good to hear from you again... it was great to see you (and the SBD) at the MAPS show! What a ball that was... still need to get my photos and video uploaded some day.
Yes, I did a lot of web-searching about that "red" issue. The IPMS guys and some contacts from the CV6 organization led me towards the "Bright Red" vs the Insignia Red. My weathering will tame it down some though, but still will be much more "red" than that "cedar" color of Insig Red.
I figured you might go back and adjust your tri-color scheme after seeing the planes at the MAPS show. I think you'll be much happier with those colors anyway.
Ditto on the flying vs building. I'd still rather be in the air than on the boards if at all possible. We have had a lot of rain lately, so I managed to get some time back on the SBD project again. Need some more servo extensions and I'm about ready to sheet up the bottom of that wing.
C-ya all,
Neo
07-07-2003, 07:22 PM
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SBD dive brakes colors
Hey Neo,
great looking SBD you got there!
about the red in the dive brake... i've been traveling around GA this 4th of July weekend and saw alot of planes
... i also was on the Yorktown where they have a SBD... i made some pics, including the dive brakes... take a look
Chees!
Jakob
great looking SBD you got there!
about the red in the dive brake... i've been traveling around GA this 4th of July weekend and saw alot of planes
... i also was on the Yorktown where they have a SBD... i made some pics, including the dive brakes... take a lookChees!
Jakob
07-07-2003, 10:35 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
DK,
Thanks for the pic. I've never seen that SBD before! Thought I had tracked them all down by now. Tough to tell from the photo, but the red on those flaps looks somewhere between the 2 reds spec'd out in the FS codes. It's not as bright or saturated as the "Bright Red" but not nearly as brown as the "Insignia Red" in the Tiano book. You can see my dilemna... every SBD I see has seems to use the bright red, but occasionally you'll find one like this with a different shade. Here's what some of the IPMS scale modelers researched for me...
--------------------------------
"As noted below, the Navy retained Flat Bright Red for safety purposes when Flat Insignia Red was switched to the rusty shade - you'll use the bright color inside your flaps and on prop tips.
The glossy shades of Insignia Red were never revised, as they were not intended for camouflage use.
Oddly, the rusty shade never seems to have been used on an American insignia. When the red-bordered insignia was introduced in 1943, it was applied using the Flat Bright Red."
-Lynn
-------------
"I've got the standards buried at home if you really need them. The color wasn't actually flag red - that had been the Army color, and all this ANA stuff was a first attempt at standardizing the Army, Navy, and British insignia and camouflage colors. The Navy Flat Insignia Red went by that name until 1943 when the ANA chips were actually issued - somewhere around that time the Navy color was renamed Bright Red, leading to all the present confusion. Bright Red was added to the ANA chips just so that the Navy could use the color for safety purposes such as dive brakes and prop tips.
The Army and Navy had little trouble accepting the British Dull Red because both services had already elimiated the red from their insignias when the ANA agreements took effect."
-Dana
-------
"So that explains why my original A-24 Banshee dive brake section has such a bright red instead of Insignia Red. I dug out a crumpled A-24 wing on an aircraft dump at Wheeler AAF from 1998-2001 and cut off the only good non-crumpled section (nothing restorable, only of interest to a nut like me), a nice size to display on my model wall. Surprisingly, every piece of aircraft debris that I found there with Red on it, the color was in fantastic shape--the red holds up better than most of the other colors, I guess adding lead and other now-prohibited additives definitely made the paint more durable."
-Don
--------------
This makes me tend to lean toward the "Bright Red" color.
Thanks for the pic. I've never seen that SBD before! Thought I had tracked them all down by now. Tough to tell from the photo, but the red on those flaps looks somewhere between the 2 reds spec'd out in the FS codes. It's not as bright or saturated as the "Bright Red" but not nearly as brown as the "Insignia Red" in the Tiano book. You can see my dilemna... every SBD I see has seems to use the bright red, but occasionally you'll find one like this with a different shade. Here's what some of the IPMS scale modelers researched for me...
--------------------------------
"As noted below, the Navy retained Flat Bright Red for safety purposes when Flat Insignia Red was switched to the rusty shade - you'll use the bright color inside your flaps and on prop tips.
The glossy shades of Insignia Red were never revised, as they were not intended for camouflage use.
Oddly, the rusty shade never seems to have been used on an American insignia. When the red-bordered insignia was introduced in 1943, it was applied using the Flat Bright Red."
-Lynn
-------------
"I've got the standards buried at home if you really need them. The color wasn't actually flag red - that had been the Army color, and all this ANA stuff was a first attempt at standardizing the Army, Navy, and British insignia and camouflage colors. The Navy Flat Insignia Red went by that name until 1943 when the ANA chips were actually issued - somewhere around that time the Navy color was renamed Bright Red, leading to all the present confusion. Bright Red was added to the ANA chips just so that the Navy could use the color for safety purposes such as dive brakes and prop tips.
The Army and Navy had little trouble accepting the British Dull Red because both services had already elimiated the red from their insignias when the ANA agreements took effect."
-Dana
-------
"So that explains why my original A-24 Banshee dive brake section has such a bright red instead of Insignia Red. I dug out a crumpled A-24 wing on an aircraft dump at Wheeler AAF from 1998-2001 and cut off the only good non-crumpled section (nothing restorable, only of interest to a nut like me), a nice size to display on my model wall. Surprisingly, every piece of aircraft debris that I found there with Red on it, the color was in fantastic shape--the red holds up better than most of the other colors, I guess adding lead and other now-prohibited additives definitely made the paint more durable."
-Don
--------------
This makes me tend to lean toward the "Bright Red" color.
07-07-2003, 10:45 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
Thanks. Now I won't have to worry about using the wrong color on my dive brakes. It makes sense that, if the dive brakes were painted red for safety reasons, one would use a brighter red rather than a brownish camo red.
Out of curiosity, why were the dive brakes and flaps painted red?
Jim
Out of curiosity, why were the dive brakes and flaps painted red?
Jim
07-07-2003, 11:24 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
Hey Don and Jim,
it sure is hard to find the right colors for the plane...
i also think that the color is more bright red... but after some sorties, it gets dirty and might look like the one on the picture, or even insigna red...
anyways...
hope this helps, and here is another pic (my dad is the guy with the smile on his face
... always gets in the way when i'm taking pictures 
have fun with your project, keep up the great work!
Cheers!
Jakob
it sure is hard to find the right colors for the plane...
i also think that the color is more bright red... but after some sorties, it gets dirty and might look like the one on the picture, or even insigna red...
anyways...
hope this helps, and here is another pic (my dad is the guy with the smile on his face
... always gets in the way when i'm taking pictures have fun with your project, keep up the great work!
Cheers!
Jakob
07-08-2003, 12:14 AM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
Tmoth,
I wondered about that myself. The only reason I can think of is so that if SBD's were in bombing formation and/or fighter support was right behind them, and a lead SBD "threw on the brakes" to roll into a dive, the guys in back would see them bright red flaps opening up giving them a "don't tailgate me" warning ;-)
You know, kinda like brake lights on a car... when you see them red things light up, you know the guy in front of you is slowing/stopping... prepare to back off!
DK,
Thanks for the extra pics. I agree, the red probably starts out pretty bright but fades and discolors with time. That's my story... and I'm stickin' to it!
Neo
I wondered about that myself. The only reason I can think of is so that if SBD's were in bombing formation and/or fighter support was right behind them, and a lead SBD "threw on the brakes" to roll into a dive, the guys in back would see them bright red flaps opening up giving them a "don't tailgate me" warning ;-)
You know, kinda like brake lights on a car... when you see them red things light up, you know the guy in front of you is slowing/stopping... prepare to back off!
DK,
Thanks for the extra pics. I agree, the red probably starts out pretty bright but fades and discolors with time. That's my story... and I'm stickin' to it!
Neo
08-02-2003, 03:28 PM
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More progress on my Bates SBD!
Finally, I think I've got the building phase of my SBD wing done, and the fuse is not far behind. Should be glassing very soon now.
Latest progress includes making and mounting the wingtips, building the anti-stall "mailbox" slots, building up the main wing ferring, and last but not least... the elusive "wheelwells" are done! That was an adventure to say the least, but I'm pretty satisfied with the results. I can't wait to detail, paint and weather them... then they should really come to life!
To pick up on my latest progress with step by step pics, start at:
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm.../closingup.htm
Here's a few pics of what I've been working on of late.
Til next time,
Neo
Latest progress includes making and mounting the wingtips, building the anti-stall "mailbox" slots, building up the main wing ferring, and last but not least... the elusive "wheelwells" are done! That was an adventure to say the least, but I'm pretty satisfied with the results. I can't wait to detail, paint and weather them... then they should really come to life!
To pick up on my latest progress with step by step pics, start at:
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm.../closingup.htm
Here's a few pics of what I've been working on of late.
Til next time,
Neo
08-31-2003, 03:27 PM
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More glassing and detailing
Got some more done on my SBD...
Fuse glassed
Dihedral joint beads on wing
Panel Lines on wing
Wingtip Lights
Hardpoint Ferrings
I added the above new pages to my construction site... start here to see more:
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/html/paint.htm
Neo
Fuse glassed
Dihedral joint beads on wing
Panel Lines on wing
Wingtip Lights
Hardpoint Ferrings
I added the above new pages to my construction site... start here to see more:
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/html/paint.htm
Neo