Oosiksmith

My Feedback: (1)

I saw a plane some time back in the RCU sale section and the guy said he built the whole thing with Elmer's wood glue; no CA or epoxy. Has anyone else done this? What is the advantage (besides cost)? Seems like it would add a lot of time to a build.

Are there any reasons not to use Elmer's? For instance, has anyone done a whole plane and noticed a weight increase? Can it handle the stresses?

I've built furniture and I know the wood glue is very strong. As an experiment I put together one of my kid's wood puzzle planes with Elmer's and it is very, very strong now. The wood ply (the same kind we use to build planes) will break before the glue hinge will.

Tim

larry@coyotenet

My Feedback: (21)

I use Elmers wood glue all the time. The trick to using it to build a plane is to work on the plane in sections, ie fuse, tail, wing, so that the disadvantage of drying time is not so bad. I glue one section and while it is drying work on another. Advantages are cost, no toxic fumes, and strength. I started building in the era of Ambroid glue so the use of alphatic resin glue is nothing unusual. I am sure that those who have only used ca will find using Elmers and pins to be a real pain.

Larry

ccostant

My Feedback: (38)

Call me old school but I still use Elmers wood glue. Same reasons as Larry mentioned. I do however use epoxy in the high stress areas; firewalls, retract plate, joinging wing halfs, ...etc

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I use a variety of glues for different things. I prefer Tite Bond brand to Elmers though. It tacks faster, is more resistant to moisture, and is a little stronger IMO. I am a carpenter by trade and have experimented with just about everything out there. In modeling, I use Tite Bond to glue in my hinges (both hinge points and flat pinned). They will not come out, and clearing the joint after they are dry is simply a matter of working the control surface. I also use CA, Epoxy, Gorilla Glue, silicone, and even 3M.

BTW, Ambriod is still around and I can get it at the LHS. I know a guy who builds Cardens with this glue and wipes all his joints. He cam get a 35% airplane down to 23-25 lbs. This is a very very light glue. I picked up a tube the other day and forgot how light it is.

bosssman

My Feedback: (35)

I'm also a Titebond man myself, but whether it is Titebond or Elmer's, keep in mind that the binding agent (in this case water) pretty much evaporates during the drying process leaving a VERY strong and light glue joint. Most of the time, you will tear the wood apart before you compromise the glued joint. In this day and age of "hurry, hurry, hurry" it is no wonder that old school adhesives such as Titebond and Emers have taken a back seat to the faster glues....

randy

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

I've been useing weldbond on everything latly..
I threw together an arf with it... joined the wings ..tail.. everthing really
works great...6 flights and it's still together..lol...
very easy to clean up and dries clear

I tested it against 30 epoxy and with both the wood fails before the joint.. what more can you ask for.. and I feel the weldbond in more flexable

lots of ways to get it done

and with weldbond I can work with the doors shut.. no fumes...

Ron

gnirwin

My Feedback: (25)

a lot of people are trying to not use CA because of adverse physical reactions and are using standard wood glues. I talked to a fella a couple weeks ago who discussed CA glues with his doctor. His doctor said that the bad reactions he was having wasn't allergies but rather a reaction from the vapor fumes that are settling in his lungs and adhering and irritating, scary.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I do alot of my building with CA, but as a carpenter myself,Titebond is my choice for wood glue,for areas where I am in no rush or where I am going to need to do some sanding theres no substitute for T-bond for me.
a fellow club member and really great builder waters his Titebond down just a little and uses a acid brush to apply it to all the joints, then wipes the exess off as well, his builds are amazingly strong and light.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I have used both in the following method , I added tight bond to ribs and fuse formers , then used CA as the quick "PIN " to hold the wood in place with total assurance that with the predispersed Tight bond wood glue on all my joints are sealed and glued properly .

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

This is a quality I neglected to mention about Titebond. I'm glad my fellow carpenter was on the ball with this. It does sand nice, unlike CA or epoxy. Weldbond is fine for some things, but balls up when sanded (because it does stay more flexible and soft), thus IMO, not a good choice where the glued parts are going to need sanded. As not much sanding if any is done on RTAs, it probably is a fine choice for some things on this type plane.

papion007

My Feedback: (19)

I have used Elmers Ultimate Glue a lot.Works great,fairly fast drying.But watch it it expands a lot.
All in all......good.
See Ya

Oosiksmith

My Feedback: (1)

I just picked up a couple glue syringes for more precision application. After I put the bead down I'll run my finger down it to smooth it out. I've made a few test jigs and they turn out very strong.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=SM&I=LX9164

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Guys,

There is a glue that is a happy medium between CA and yellow carpenters glue called Super Phatic. It uses aliphatic glue (yellow carpenters glue) as a base and it is thinned with additives. The advantages of it are: wicks into wood like CA, it's lighter than CA because aliphatic glues have water in them and it evaporates (CA doesn't evaporate), it has a tougher bond than CA (it has a slight amount of elasticity to it, it isn't brittle like CA), more sandable than CA, the best part: no fumes or vapours, it's water soluable so it washes off with soap and water, it sets up in 20 minutes reaches full strength in 2 hours (Elmers or Carpenters glue needs 12-24 hours) since it's slower than CA, it gives you time to make "adjustments" and won't bond your fingers together instantly, you can wash it off in plenty of time.

You can get it at Hobby Lobby or www.ontarioadhesives.ca

Chris

Evil_Merlin

My Feedback: (13)

My Fokker D.VII is making a good use of Wood Glue (Great Planes brand). I still use CA for my tacking and such but all big and especially load bearing units are epoxied or wood glued. No issues so far. It does get a little frustrating during a build when I am on a roll and have to wait for it to dry however.

NCIS

I use Great Planes Pro Wood glue but it's the same as Titebond. I haven't ever used elmers except for canopies but it is just as strong and it's nice that it dries almost clear and it's so easy to sand. Just my 2 cents worth.

Gibbs

rcwarbirdbuilder

My Feedback: (104)

What is it called, Elmers? No thank you.

jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

I've used most all the glues mentioned here, and the one I use the most is either Elmers Wood Glue, or Titebond. Either one applied correctly, on a correctly prepared surface is plenty strong for modeling use. I use whatever the application needs. Epoxy is a go to when strength really matters!

Elmers for sure! It doesn't bother my sinuses like CA does.

mbardsley

I just finished a TF 1/7 spitfire build, I used mostly Tite-bond, have not used it for years, I was really impressed with the strenght of the whole build. Most of the guys at the local club, thought i was crazy, but i wanted a model to last