mesaflyer

I don't know if anybody else is building the flaps, but what a process Top Flight puts you through to build them. I screwed one of the inner flaps up by sanding down too much, and have to make it over again.

The big dilemma was putting the wing together. I set ribs W6 with the dihedral gauge per the instructions. Then when I dry fit the wing panels, the dihedral was about 1 3/4" under rib W12. The instructions say this should be 1 1/2" (+- 1/16"). I either had to make some kind of shim, or block sand the ribs down, or tear them apart and reset with a different angle, or decide that the instructions had a misprint (I have found MANY misprints, and no I'm not kidding). I decided to epoxy them together with 1 3/4" dihedral. Not sure what this will do for the flying characteristics, guess I'll find out.
Until next time.......

mesaflyer

Been on a few vacations, so haven't got as much done as I wanted. The wing is together and all fitted up. Flaps still need to be fitted, had to take some time off from the flaps and do more work on the fuse. Fuse is going along pretty good. In case anybody reads this in the future, the plans have formers F5A and F5C in the wrong location. They should be swapped out from what is on the plans. No big deal, you just have to pay attention to what you are doing.

mesaflyer

Here are a few pics I took along the way. You can see that the 85 degree retracts wont work. I also don't like the wire, so I ordered Robostruts. When I chose the location for the wheel wells, I just picked a spot about halfway from the "scale" position and the "extended" position shown on the plans. Turns out the length of the wire struts I made is about 1/16" shorter than the Robostruts. What a fluke!

mesaflyer

Well, I ordered 7/16 robostruts, and they wont fit up tight against the trunnion (sp)? The gap on the retracts is too small. Thought about mounting them and leaving about a 1/4" gap with exposed 3/16 wire. But before I cut them off, I have e-mailed Doug at Lado to see if he can make my 90 degree retracts with a wider gap for the struts to fit into. Kinda hard to explain, so here is a pic I sent to Doug.

I am basically done with the wing. The flaps came out better than I thought. Just have to take your time. I used a Hitec servo on one side instead of a reversing "Y". Nice thing about that is that the Hitec comes with that adjustable servo arm. All I had to do was set up the Futaba servo to the correct throw, and then "fine tune" the adjustable Hitec arm. Seems to work out just fine.

RodanAZ

Could you do me a favor and post the cowl dimensions (inside diameter front and back)? I'm looking at building one of these, and trying to determine what engine I'd like to use (thinking gas...)...

Thanks!

mesaflyer

The cowl diameter is 8". The space from the front of the firewall to the prop hub is 5 7/8". I am planning on putting a CRRC 26 on mine. Already have the engine ($189.00 delivered to my door, couldn't pass it up), and I will have to make some kind of longer stand offs (or buy some). The spark plug will stick out the bottom a little, right next to the exhaust pipe. The carb will fit inside, but the velocity stack will stick outside a tiny bit.
I did a search on here and it seems that most guys that are using smaller, lighter engines are having to add A LOT of nose weight (18 to 24 oz!). Even the manual tells you where to stick the nose weight. I decided to get the weight in the form of an engine. Just hope it's not too much.
Hope this helps.

RodanAZ

That's exactly what I was thinking... plus the rising costs of glow fuel make gas look pretty cheap.

Thanks! That info is just what I needed!

mesaflyer

Update
Just one last final sanding, and the wing will be ready for glass. As you see it in the pic, without the ailerons or flaps attached, the wing weighs 1 lb, 15 oz.
The fuse still needs the cockpit cut out, trial fit of the cockpit kit, and a little more sanding. Then it should be ready for glass. It has two servos installed along with the control rods, the rudder and elevators are not installed, and weighs 2 lbs, 3 oz. This will be my second job of glass and paint. I am going to take weight measurements along the way, just out of curiosity. I want to see how much the individual processes add to the weight on the plane.

CastorTroy2150

My Feedback: (10)

Outstanding build, Am looking at one of these to build cant decided on what to build this winterr. I am more then proficient at building but get so intemedated when looking at the birds and the manual. Dont know which I will build, this one seems to be straight forward. Anyone know how these fly as far as compared to other warbirds?

mesaflyer

Thanks for the compliment. I have the glass on the wing and it came out pretty good. Using the poly is so easy. Four more coats and I should be done with the wing. The only other kit that I have built is a Tiger 60, and that was pretty easy. I am trying to take my time on this and not make too many mistakes, so far, so good. It seems a little complicated at times, but part of that is because there are a few typos on the plans and manuel. But, no reason to get intimidated. Crap, if I can build this, anyone can.
As for flying, from what I have read, the P-47 is supposed to be the easiest to fly. This is my first 60 size warbird, so I'm no expert. The only other warbird that I have flown is the VQ warbirds P-51, 46 size, and it is sport scale, so it flys like a sport plane. Also, from what I have read, this model comes out a little tail heavy, and requires some nose weight, and if not careful, the overall weight can add up. I picked this plane because there don't seem to be too many out there, and I kinda like the big radial look.

mesaflyer

The wing is now glassed. Used 2 coats sealer. .73oz cloth from thayercraft.com and 6 coats of poly. It sure was easy to do. The wing now weighs 2 lbs., 4oz. Gained 5 oz., doesn't seem like much to me.
Just put the sealer on the fuselage. Will start glassing tomorrow. By the way, I posted the thayercraft link on purpose. I found them by accident on a thread on here. The material is A LOT better that the stuff I had ordered from Tower, and it's cheaper.

TEBerg

My Feedback: (1)

I was looking at the post you made about the Robostruts and the retracts.. Robart calls to use the 380 series Robostrut on this kit (and on my Skyraider).. Instead of the 7/16, would the 3/8 strut fit flush??

Side note, nothing works perfect [laugh]. Wait until you see the photos I post of my Robostrut dilemma; the struts spring out to different lengths!! They sit about 1/8-inch different for the extended portion. They look to be different manufacturing runs.. So, if you do look at new struts, check that they match. I bought mine on-line and just found out.

Also, after glassing, I was wondering what you are doing inside the wheel openings and between the flaps for color/fuel proofing??

And, Nice build so far..

mesaflyer

TEBerg,
I wanted to go with the 7/16 just to be "overkill", and the 3/8 are too short. I saw on VQ Warbirds site that they carry a 7" long, 3/8 strut, but they are all out, and don't know when they will get more in. After a long conversation with Doug, he is going to make me a set of his retracts without the "flange" that is in the way. But, as he pointed out, there probably is not enough space between the wire strut mounting hole and the retract housing to accept a 7/16 tube. Kinda hard to explain. It might work, but if it doesn't, I am going to just use 3/8 wire struts that I have already made up.

Yea, I'm finding out about the "nothing works perfect" bit. I guess that's why somebody came up with "plan B".

Inside the wheel wells has been fiberglassed using Z-Poxy. The instructions tell you to do this before sheeting the bottom of the wing. Kinda ruff looking, but I am not going to enter this into any contests. Between the flaps I used about 4 coats of poly with no fiberglass. That came out pretty good, with the exception of a couple small glue blobs that I missed with the q-tip. I am going to prime and paint inside the wheel wells and flaps using Warbird Colors. Probably just going to keep it simple and paint the inside the same finish color as the bottom of the plane, light grey. I have seen a few photos, and that's what it looks like on the full scale plane. I am sure that somebody knows "exactly" what color it is, but as I said, I am keeping this part simple.

Thanks for the compliment. For some reason, I am really enjoying this build!

I am really going back and forth on what engine to put in this. So, I decided to take my time and finish the plane complete, except for the engine. Then, I am going to do my best at balancing the plane, and figuring out how much weight is REALLY needed up front. Then I'll make my engine decision. Really want to go with a small gasser, but not at the expense of the added weight.

rastus21

Nice one bro, I'm at pretty much the same stage as you, but have mounted motor[st g2300]. And assembled and painted little mate, ie century jets full ww2 pilot, next cockpit, then glassing. Its getting to the pointy end Now.. I'musing robo struts to. On the landing gear mount I carbon pinned everything and carbon fibre cloth, shouldnt break.... we'll see, also carbon pinned firewall, with about 4mm rod I think. Doing the full cockpit. Starting to get amped about finishing and flying. Everything has fitted perfect, even the cowl was perfect! Never seen this before without endless fiddling. Cant wait to go shoot down some meatballs..
Also this week Ive built a Mig 15, kind Ironic I think considering a Sea fury shot down one : )

Maaaaaaaatt

mesaflyer

Matt,
WE NEED PICTURES!!! When you get her done, you gotta let us know how it flys. I would really like to know the overall weight of your plane. And if possible, maybe you could guestimate how much weight you put in the nose? Total amount, engine, spinner, and lead, if possible.
I've cut in and test fit the cockpit kit. Started glassing the fuse, a few more days and should be complete.
Just need the pilot figure so I can get him and the cockpit kit all painted.
Getting closer to the end, but the engine is going to be a hold up.

rastus21

I think she will be a little fat, but theres plenty of wing area, should be a good one. Ill weigh her when Im done and give ya heads up on flying, but i reckon itll be at least a month. Im doing this one properly.

mh

mesaflyer

The fuse is glassed and poly coated. Added 4 oz of weight. I had already cut out the fuse for the cockpit, and cut and sanded all the cockpit parts to make sure they fit. Really kind of a "weak looking" cockpit kit, but very light. I had asked about some full scale cockpit photos on another thread, and Chad Veich (hope I spelled that correctly) posted a link to some really nice photos (thanks Chad). I will use these to add a few levers and knobs. Nothing to fancy, just want a little more detail.

One thing to check if installing the Top Flight cockpit, the seat back is to tall. I checked this when dry fitting the kit. Not sure if it will show in the picture, but the canopy hits the top of the seat back. I had to trim about 1/4 inch off of the bottom of the seat back. I will double check this when it is time for the permanent install.

mesaflyer

I have added the plastic parts to the wing. Was brain farting all day with this one. Mounted the wing to the fuse to get a proper fit up of the plastic oil cooler/ air intake parts. Cut them out, no problem. Started sanding them to get a nice fit. Put a little too much red marker one one (used the marker determine how much to sand off) so grabbed the ACETONE to clean off the marker. Meant to grab the denatured alcohol. So, I sorta melted the plastic a little bit, but noticed what I had done before I killed the part. It was still usable. Then got both plastic parts fitted up real nice, I mean they were perfect. (that should have been my first clue that I was about to do something wrong) Glued the smaller one on with med CA. Lookin' real good, THEN I realized that I had put CA were the part was touching up against the fuse. So, basically I had just glued the part to both the wing AND the fuse. Gonna make it hard to remove the wing! What a DUMB *****. Luckily, I was able to get the wing removed from the fuse before the glue dried, so no harm done. Then came time to glue the other side on. Re-mounted the wing. Got everything all set up. Started gluing the part on, and realized that I had not marked the wing for the location of the part. Went for it anyway, and had to slide the part around a little to get it lined up. Of course the glued dried with the part in the wrong place, but pretty close. But now I have med CA in places were it shouldn't be, and managed to glue my finer to the wing. After saying a few choice words, I just pulled it loose without doing any damage. had to take a break, and then went back and glued the gun blisters on, without too much of a problem.

I received my stencils the other day. I will post more info on them later on. Just wanted to mention them here because the gentleman I got them from sent me (without me even asking) some really nice three view drawings. This gave me a pretty good idea where the gun blisters were to be mounted, since the manual doesn't tell you squat about them.

Since I have these drawings, I have decided to try my hand at panels lines. We will see how that goes.

Here is a pick of the wing with the plastic parts. Just need to use a little putty around the edges, and she is ready to go.

CRJDriver

My Feedback: (57)

Whats the status of the build? I am getting one from Santa and am looking forward to the process. Cheers

mesaflyer

Well.........................I puttied around the plastic parts and sanded that down. Needs another coat of putty and should be just about ready for primer. I have decided to put the build on hold for awhile. I have built a MOJO 40 kit for my son, waiting for the covering to get here. I got a SSE kit in November that I just started, and when I am finished with that, I am going to build a 4 star 120 kit and stick my CRRC 26 gasser (was going to put that on the Sea Fury) on it. When I'm done with the 4 star, I'm planning on finishing the Sea Fury, completely done minus the engine, and then figure out just how much weight it needs up front. That seems to be the issue with this plane, but mine sure is lite.
I see on the back cover of my Model Aviation magazine that Saito has come out with a 20cc gasser that weighs 35.3 oz without the battery. I am afraid to look up how much that will cost.[X(]

Keep us posted on your build. Somehow, I get the feeling that there are several Sea Furys out there that aren't finished. Mine will not become one of those, I will finish it. When it came out so lite, I needed to re-think my engine choice. And I also wanted to get some gasser experience in an easy flying plane, without a cowl.

sgrogan

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Y'all... I need a little help- I'm in the process of building this bird, (just started the wing...) I am using a saito 115. It looks like the fuel tank will have to be mounted about 1" above the carb, since it's mounted inverted. Do I need something like a cline regulator, or maybe a perry oscillating pump??? This is my first 4 stroke, and first setup where I have to put the tank above the carb....

mesaflyer

I would post this question in the glow fuel or club Saito forum. You will probably get a better response there. I did have a 82 mounted inverted in my Mustang, worked fine. Had to lower the tank a little, but that's all I did, no regulator or pump. Good luck on your build.

Vintauri

My Feedback: (25)

I have this kit waiting to be built. I also thought of this plane when I saw the Saito 20cc gasser. Looks like a good fit. But I think the price was $550 for the engine.

I have a GS P-47 to rebuild first and then the Seafury can hit the bench.

Steve

mesaflyer

Vintauri

My Feedback: (25)

Well mine is still in the box and I also just picked up a GS mustang ARF to throw my gear in from my crashed Pica. Dang that Micorsoft Live cashback deal making me spend money.

Anyway I do hope to work on it this winter and I'll be posting in a few places when I do.

Steve