rzingsheim

My Feedback: (4)

I know a lot of you guys are applying thin tape, then priming over it and removing to simulate panel lines. Whate type of tape works well for this? Crepe,vinyl,something else? What widths are you using 1/16, 1/32? Where do you get it? Whats the procedure you have had the best success with? Any other tips you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Roy

Steve Collins

My Feedback: (8)

Chart tape is getting very scarce in this day of charts generated by computers.

Mike Emilio

http://www.ontarioadhesives.ca/

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.getstencils.com/ 6 rolls for 18.00 shipped. it's .020 thick

Meschmidt

My Feedback: (15)

Chart tape. Office Depot has a bunch of it! Use the smallest size they have, 1/16". Apply it to fuselage. Primer over lines a couple of coats, let dry between coats. Then primer the whole thing. Sand till smooth at lines. Pull off tape and use scotchbrite pad over lines to smooth out edges. Paint!. Paul

saramos

My preference is for 1/64" chart tape for most panel lines, and maybe 1/32" for some doors and cowl panels.
Here's my source.

http://www.grafsticktapeandlabel.com/index.htm

Scott.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I bought from here, the last couple of times i needed tape: http://www.suppliesnet.com/index.asp...S&Category=290

gnirwin

My Feedback: (25)

When I was at Toledo last year I received some information about a couple products produced by RC SCALE PRODUCTS. The products are panel line tape sold in different widths for the diferent airplane scales. I built a 1/7 scale plane and ordered the appropriate tape. The really neat product they offer is a tape used to align and apply rivets. This is the absolutely best way I have seen for getting the rivets to not only look scale but also to look nice and straight and professionally done. All the rivets end up being round and the same uniform shape and size in a straight line, fantastic. Below is their website:

http://rcscaleproducts.com/finish_acc.htm

rzingsheim

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Scott,

Are you using the crepe or vinyl tapes from grafstick? Do you let the primer dry or pull off the tape while the primer is setting up? Anyone else comments or experiances?

Thanks,

Roy

saramos

Hi Roy,

I used the vinyl glossy 1/64" tape. I lay it out, then use Duplicolor High Build Sandable Primer. I let the primer dry, then pull up the tape. Sometimes the adhesive stays in the line. To clean it out, I break the tip off a #11 blade, then use the blade backwards to clean out the line. Another item that worked well was to take an 05 allen wrench and grind a small hook on the back side. Once the tape is pulled up and cleaned, I give it a light sanding with 360 grit or finer to knock off any roughness. Then it's ready for rivets. I've read others sand down to the tape, then pull it up. I'm sure that would work well too. I originally learned the technique from the Dave Platt videos. He says he used acetone and a toothbrush to clean out any adhesive left, but you have to make sure the primer is well cured. I haven't tried that. I was unsure how it would affect the auto primer.

Scott

rzingsheim

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Scott,

Thanks for the quick and informative response on panel lines. That's probably how I'll go. You mentioned rivets. I'd like to hear your method of rivet simulation also if you don't mind. Anyone elses comments are always welcome also!

Thanks in advance,

Roy

ForkedTailDevil

My Feedback: (21)

Roy,
Dino sels the stuff at Aero Accessories. He has it in 1/16 and 1/32. Its great stuff. Get your surface primed with all pin wholes and stuff taken care off (in other words, have the model ready to paint) then apply the panel lines at your descresion, i usually paint two coats just over the panel lines, then lightly sand the edges untill the panel line tape begins to show through, remove the panel lines and whaaalaaa!

As far as rivets go, (flushed that is) i bought a couple of soldering irons from hobby (or any other iron with the removable tips) and i took the stock tip out. THen you go buy yourself a piece of copper tubbing (various sizes you can pick from, remember the smaller the size, the more scale, yet harder to make long strait lines) And insert the copper tubbing into the soldering iron. After you have painted your model, with the iron in low yeat, make your self up a long piece of masking tape with tickmarks simulating the spacing between the rivets. Go alone all your panel lines and start burnin. THe tape will aid you in geting evenly spaced lines as well as getting them in a strait line. Now if its not too late, spray some aluminum paint over the model where your pane lines wil go before you paint your entire model. This way, some of the aluminum will show through where you burn in your rivets...makes it look neat!

rzingsheim

My Feedback: (4)

Hi ForkedTailDevil,

Thanks for the info. I will be painting my 1/5 P51 in Behr silver latex with pacific theater (late war) large black bands and some other trim colors. Your idea of silver/alumunum under the other colors will work great for me as the whole plane will start out silver. Do you guys know of compatable trim paints that will go over latex. I will be using Behr latex for the black as I will need a fair amount but I don't want to buy custom mixed quarts at about $16.50 each for the few ounces of other colors I'll need for the other areas. The plane will be gas powered with a D A 50.

Thanks,

Roy

saramos

I do my rivets in the primer stage. Like mentioned above, I mount brass tubing to a soldering gun. You can also use the Top Flite trim iron if you have it. I mount a 2" long brass tube 1/16, or 3/32 tubing, depending on the size rivet, then use 1" long brass tubes nestled together until I get up to a tube that just fits the soldering iron. I put a bend in the tip to make it a little more ergonimic to use. One thing is that you have to crimp the tubes in some way. I used a small nail as a punch to put a dimple in each tube as I added them. I measured and marked the rivets with a small mechanical pencil to get even spacing and to get intersections to meet properly. I once again give a light sanding to take off any rough edges.

Doing it in the primer stage makes more sense to me. It allows me to simply sand out any mistakes, and to sand out any rough spots. Better to make easily correctable errors in primer than to make difficult to correct errors in the color coat. The final color coat will soften out the rivets some and allow your weathering to bring them out in a more realistic fashion.

Scott