mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

With cost of 100LL being well of $5.00 dollars a gallon and those old birds lots of it per hour, even people of money are cringing at what it costs per hour to fly a war bird. There are still a lot of wwII era planes out there and every year some get restored and every year we lose a couple. Jack Roush just put back into the air a P-51B with malcomb hood. Was it at Williow Run this past weekend?

mdishinger

My Feedback: (4)

RC34074 Thanks for the tip, I just bought one from the scratch and dent. A few weeks ago I got hit by a tail wind and she went down, so with a perfect wing all I need is the fuselage and I will probably use the tail feathers. Other than that I should be all set.

Thanks again for the tip.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Actually, I'm thinking the high cost of insurance since 9/11 has more to do with it.

Do you mean this one? It was painted up as "Old Crow".
The C-130 is an active duty Ohio ANG aircraft, which is painted in WW II Mustang colors: red/ yellow checker nosed engine cowls, with red/ yellow banded spinners, D-Day stripes, and stars & bars WITHOUT the red bars. The unit it is from is a descendent of the 357th (Mustang) fighter group, hence the justification for the unusual markings

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

9/11 has nothing to do with it, the biggest factor is getting pilots with a lot of time in the type of aircraft, especially with Mustangs listing for sale in the million to two million range. Fortunately our insurance keeps decreasing with our the cessna. However, our friends with larger and more than one engines, often have to do yearly recurrent training mandated by their insurance.

Now back to the models.

Jonathan2121

I want to cover the elevator access hole. And I didn't see anything in the manual to cover or didn't find anything in the kit to cover it with.

Any ideas of what I should use to cover it, or where to get it??? I would like the same color.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

[8D]

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

My impression is that it was meant to be a permanant access hole. A small piece of aluminum MonoKote should cover it nicely.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

I finally have my engine, fuel tank, servo and remote needle valve installed into my P-51. I needed to put in spacers for my K&B 1.00 instilation. I used two spacers, 3/4" wide, 4" long, and .642" deep. I have about 1/64" spacing for my spinner to cowl gap and I am gald I took the time to set it up. It looks great... : ) Installing new blind nuts was a bit interesting to say the least, but the engine rests solid. I also fuel proofed my inner cowl, and fuel tank bay...this is for longevity of the model...and wishful thinking on my part.

I was able to lower my fuel tank, so my carb to fuel tank setting is much better then stock built. I made a couple of hooks and use a rubber band to hold the fuel tank into proper position. By notching the front of the fuel tank into the fire wall...this holds the front of the fuel tank solid. I will know if it works after my first flights.

I need to fit the cowl now on my model, and install the tail feathers...then I will be done.

I'm using the Airtronics 8 channel 2.4 gig. radio, and all 94102 servos.

I've enclosed a few pictures of my work and of a flying T.F. P-51 a club member built. He uses Lado retracks and an O.S. 90 FX. The man did the model justice, and is beautiful both on the ground and in the air.

Soft landings always,
Bobby of Maui

Georg Matthews

My Feedback: (6)

I have a question that I haven't seen addressed in this thread.
I have a saito 115 and I know the crankshaft is 8X1.25.
Will the included brass bushing for the spinner backplate fit the 8mm shaft?
The instructions say the bushing has a 7.9mm ID.
If it won't fit what are you guys using for a backplate adapter for the saito 100 115 ?
Thanks

heli2883

My Feedback: (21)

Why is there only one HURRY HOME HONEY sticker in the kit? Mine is close to ready. Air retracts installed and tested, going to adjust throws and balance the CG tonight going to do 5 1/2 for wing edge. have a saito 1.00, Ram glow ignitor, Robart air retracts.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Very nice looking K&B 100. I hear they are great engines. I am going to be using a OS 75AX for mine with the in-cowl Top-Flite muffler. I fly off of a grass field and I was wondering if the Robart 608HD retracts will hold up to the task? I here the stock retracts are to week for the job.[&o]

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

I monokoted over the elevator access hole with aluminum Monokote.
(LM1252 Top Flite MonoKote Aluminum 6' ) This is the best flying WWII ARF I've ever flown. it is fantastic...
I also have the both gear legs, both tires, and both retracts brand new. If someone needs them, PAYPAL me $10. For shipping and Handling and
and Ill send them to you.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I beleive the full scale(s) are the same: they only have it on the left side.

michaelbbbb

I didn't use the stock retracts, mainly because I wanted robo struts for looks and functional dampening off of grass field. So, I can't speak to the stock gear's strength. However, I did install the 608HD mechanical retracts with the 653 Robostruts, and it all works great, once you get the retract mounting trays angle worked out.
If you simply slap the robart mechanicals into the wing, their actuator doesn't line up well with the control rod, and the rod will bind.
I had to insert 1/4" ramps to build up the outside end of the retracts so that they line up correctly. I also re-enforced under the retract mounting rails, and epoxied the whole area liberally....(I'm rough on equipment, so I am trying to make this thing sturdy).....
So far, so good....but it has taken a while to get to this realization in how to properly mount the retracts to get smooth ops. (cost me a JR Sport AND a Hitec Retract servo along the way, because of the binding problem)
So I came close to chucking the whole mechanical retact idea....but I stuck with it, mainly because I had eaten up the internal real estate that would normally house an air tank, etc. and instead have a smoke pump and tank in there right now......so didn't want to introduce air system if I didn't have to.....

Now I have a JR 791 high torque retract servo, mounted into a modified servo tray, that straight lines the control rods to the retracts, that also have modified mount rails......and all is well in retract land....for now.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Micheal,

Thanks for the feed back on the 608HD retracts. I just ordered them and I am looking forward to getting them installed. I will look out for the binding problem when I install them.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay jstanton,
Micheal has it right, I've flown Robart 608HD retracts and the 609HD's. Both were reliable and can take quite bit of abuse. Robo Struts not only look good, but function well. Robart scale wheels need the foam inserts and be glued together...they work very well, but will ware, so I just checked them out before I fly. I fly off of a hard surface runway...and I'm hard on my landing gear too.

It's a great model... : )

Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

jucava

What are these foam inserts for?

michaelbbbb

The spinner backplate and brass bushing work fine on my Saito 125 that I have in mine.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Jucava,
The foam inserts are for the tires...and needed to keep the tires shape when high stress loads are on the wheels. Robart sells the foam inserts on their web sight, in lengths and dia. for different tire sizes. You place the round foam inserts into the tire when you assemble them...and it does make them a bit stiffer.

I have finished installing my cowl...and the fit and finish of the cowl is just amazing. I needed to cut a hole for my needle valve, seven hold down screws and for head of the engine, for cooling. I'm not sure if I have enough opened up for the exhaust and air cooling for the model.

This is my second inverted engine instilation...and my first instilation of inverted engines was a real lesson in patience. I had two Fox .50 set inverted in a World Models F-82...and I managed to get real good at single engine landings. I would like any experienced engine modeler to give me his opinion on what I've done so far with this engine.

Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

goedhartige

hi Bob

Are you planning on installing rubber extensions to the exhaust, because As I could see from the pictures, the exhausts don't exit the cowl. Thus resulting in a very wet and oil covered cowl and engine bay... (what you don't want I guess...)

Normally the exit area should be twice/three times the inlet area... I think this is the case with your cutout...

It's nice to see your good job on the cowl... Are you planning to paint your new spinner?
I will install a RCV 90CD engine, so I also have no valves to cutout from the cowl...

How did your wing and especially your retracts finally end up? Are they flush with the wing when retracted (do you use the thrust plates, or did you cut the bearers?)
Have you installed the strut covers?

could you please post some detailed pictures of your retract setup please?

I just ordered the century jet retracts, and I plan on modifying them (cut shorter)

Regards

Jens

jucava

Thank you for the info Bob, I wasn't aware of those foam insert and didn't installed on my robart wheels, so far so good, they haven't deform or anything, yet.

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

I made 3 more flights with mine last night , and again ill say it is the nicest landing R/C warbird I've ever owned.
Drop the gear , drop 20 deg of flaps, line up on the runway, chop the power, and Flair. once on the ground, retract the flaps.
With around 15 flights I haven't put a scratch on it yet.

Bob Paris: Your installation if Perfect. However be awarer of Possible overheating, Flooding.
If it were mine and it is not, and this is my opinion only, but Id install Sullivan's Onboard glow. I have it on mine and it works perfectly...

gjeffers

well i ordered mine today and i cant wait. im going with the "OLD CROW" of Bud Anderson fame. will get the lettering done by a custom vinyl lettering outfit and she should look great. (ive been married for 36 years and just couldnt choke down a "Hurry Home Honney" scheme) will put a saito 125 with a 14x10 and she should scream at those Germans.

ive read the whole post but im still going with the stock retracts for now, later i will work some ot and get the robart struts. i will be doing some beefing of the retract housing though.

gjeffers

have any of you guys flying this noticed any need for right thrust at all? such as pulling left on takeoffs.

mdishinger

My Feedback: (4)

gjeiffers - try flying the H9 1.5 Mustang with a Saito 220! All of my big birds with big engines pull a bit to the left. I do have to feather the rudder, nothing to drastic.