flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I maiden the Mustang today and the trash bag was unnecessary for the time being. I'm not new to tail draggers but I found out quickly that the rudder is mandatory until the tail rises under your control. Once airborne with the gear retracted it required some left aileron and elevator down trim. I trim my models at 75% throttle setting and anything above or below this setting the pilot fly's the airplane. I managed to get three flights in. The first flight is what I call familiarization and calming your nerves. All went well and I made a wheel landing without flaps. The down trim is a benefit when making wheel landings. The prop I used on the first flight was a 15X8 XOAR and the plane had plenty of speed with the OS 1.08 installed. On the second flight I exchanged the 15X8 with a 16X6 XOAR and to be expected it pulled harder to the left on take off but did improve acceleration. This prop develops more thrust however it does decrease your airspeed. I experimented with flaps with gear up and down and again no problems noted. I also did slow flight with gear up and down in conjunction with flap deployment and throttle management is mandatory just like any other model. I landed with full flaps keeping the airspeed up until the mains contacted the tamarack and allowing the tail to settle on its own. Be advised, I would not attempt three pointing this airframe. The last flight was a combination of all the novice maneuvers accomplished in a pattern routine and the only thing lacking was me the pilot in command. The landing was uneventful and my flight battery told me it was time to pack it up.

Too sum it up this plane is not for ever one. I say this because it is small and fast. The silver and green paint scheme provides no feed back for orientation so again it all comes back to the pilot to sort things out. If you can afford it go with a larger airframe.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Congrats on your maiden, are you going to fly it again, or like me, every successful landing means the plane is still for sale?

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I don't know why you guys would be afraid of this plane, I think it's one of the best flying warbirds I own. I rarely land with full flaps, usually half flap. This picture shows a perfect landing, and while it's not a three point landing, it is very close and if timed just right, you can do three point landings all day long. My only complaint is the landing gear issues. If I don't land with a nose high attitude the landing gear legs will bend back. I agree however, it's best flown on a bright sunny day, of course, that's when it looks best.

acdii

It's called camouflage for a reason! LOL

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Perhaps its a wing loading issue? I know that many people are stuffing large engines in the cowl for performance, and I admit I will be guilty of this too. Of course I just guessing, I don't recall anyone discussing where they are putting their batteries or if they are adding tail wt. If anyone with the DLE 20 wants to chime in, I would really be curious as its close to the VVRC 20 I'll be using.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

True, wing loading could be the issue. I built mine with an OS FS91S and was able to balance with the battery pack so no added weight. If I remember correctly mine came out just a little over 10 lbs. I also tend to balance all of my planes just a little tail heavy which makes slowing down for landing much easier. I am also guilty of over powering my planes but never my warbirds.

acdii

Warbirds should fly scale like, lots of guys over power them to make them go unrealistically fast. Nice to have an extra bit of power for the oh Sh** moments, but adding extra oomph means extra weight so then you have to land faster, which on most of these tears up the landing gears. I think up to a 20CC gas or 1.20 glow is perfect for the 60 size 51, and the 91 is ideal for just enough power to weight. I have a kit built one still working on that will have a YS 110 in it, and still contemplating an ARF with a Saito 100 GK in it.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

I usually over power the warbirds for the simple reason they typically need nose wt, and if Im adding lbs, Id rather it be muscle then fat. That and you are correct, a warbird with 'just enough power' will usually meet its end on the first tip stall, unless you are at least 3 "O-S" moments high! (Dont as me how I know) On most warbird builds I read about, people are talking about how much lead they have to add and surprised by it. This thread is absent of this so I'm assuming the P51 builds fairly balanced with a "normal" power plant, as in the case with Kap's 91? (So it figures, I will end up screwing with the one bird that doesnt need it!)

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

I have an O.S. 1.20 four stroke in mine attempting CG at 5 1/4". It looks like I will be moving the battery back and maybe adding a second battery for my Robart electric retracts. Otherwise I'd be putting 5 OZ of lead in the tail.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

For those who did not do the math on this wing the factory CG is set at 30% with the gear retracted. With the gear extended and using Robart struts' and wheel assemblies it moves the CG to about 27%. I'm using 3.5" diameter tires and 7/16" diameter struts. It is pitch sensitive due to the CG location but you do have dual rates and exponential to overcome this issue. Due to the size of the airframe it is my opinion that it should be flown from an asphalt/concrete runway or any other hard packed surface such as a dry lake bed. If you fly from a grass strip other than a golf course your chances of ripping out the gear becomes a factor not in your favor.

acdii

Well since I fly off grass, glad I didn't buy one.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

There are many thay fly off grass with no problems. I do. Plow dropping it is could be a problem i guess. I did reinforce the rails to the ribs and each other with some 'shear" plates on each side of the opening and to the spar. Nothing scientific.. just beefed it up. Battery is in the rear and a second for the retracts because I like the speed at 4.8v pack offers. I do land full flap. + a touch and carry power to deck.

RBean

j301, I've got a DLE 20 in mine. I have one battery a 2,000 mha 4.8V Nimh in the rear fuselage just in front of the tail wheel and the radio battery, 2200 mha 6V just rear of the wing saddle. CG I think is 5.25". Wtg about 10.5 lbs. Using Robart retract and 7/16" struts 3.5" wheels. I angled the gear forward and operate off grass.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

[QUOTE=RBean;11804089]j301, I've got a DLE 20 in mine. I have one battery a 2,000 mha 4.8V Nimh in the rear fuselage just in front of the tail wheel and the radio battery, 2200 mha 6V just rear of the wing saddle. CG I think is 5.25". Wtg about 10.5 lbs. Using Robart retract and 7/16" struts 3.5" wheels. I angled the gear forward and operate off grass. [/QUOTE


Thanks for the info, thats helpful. Did you have to mod the wheel wells at all for the 3.5"? I know others were talking about using 3.25" wheels. I was thinking of fabing up some inner doors, any thoughts on wheel size if I try it? Also, where did you get your "cooling ducts?"
Thanks, and it looks great, love the scheme.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

The UPS delivered a "Biela" 14X8 4 bladed propeller yesterday afternoon that I purchased from TroyBuilt Models. They advertise the propeller as being balanced by the manufacture don't believe it. I had already ordered an extra spinner assembly from Tower Hobbies and now I had a prop to work with. Cutting the slots is time consuming especially this configuration. I balanced the spinner and prop using CA and a DuBro prop balancer. If your using the DuBro unit you will need the extra long shaft assembly that is sold separately. Well, with all that said I ran the combination this afternoon and the first start up ended with the prop coming loose. No damage noted to the prop other than cosmetic were the propeller came in contact with the edges of the cut out slots. I retightened the prop nut and crossed my fingers. This time the propeller stay in place and the first thing I noted was the noise reduction. The OS 1.08 will turn this prop but it appears it is loading it down. I don't have any tack readings' since the battery was dead in my unit. The last time I used this tack was a year ago or longer. Now that I know it works should I attempt to fly it in this configuration? What is the expression so often used "no guts no glory".

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

That's awesome! You will know if there is enough thrust. Considering the plane will fly on a 60... no reason why you wouldn't. The prop will unload some in the air also.

acdii

I would add a touch of oil to your fuel to help the motor stay cool, its going to be under some load with 4 blades, better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. I started running 20% oil mix, syn Klotz and Castor Klotz for my 4 strokes. Little bit more to clean up but the engines are running smoother this year.

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

Wow! I am using an O.S. 120 four stroke with a 15 x 8 but if your 1.08 can spin it then I may eventually go that route too.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I'm using "Power Master" YS 20/20.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I would not recommend you doing that. I did say it was lugging it down which led to overheating. A four stroke unless it is a YS 1.4 or OS 200 just won't do it.[ QUOTE=Aiden88;11804897]Wow! I am using an O.S. 120 four stroke with a 15 x 8 but if your 1.08 can spin it then I may eventually go that route too.[/QUOTE]

raptureboy

Not sure why the need for a 4 blade prop as you really don't see it except when it's static. I think it is just too much for a small engine to sling. The DLE 20 is more than enough power with a 17/6 zoar it will go way above the 400 ft ceiling limit required by the AMA. Mine also balanced with the 2650 mah LiFe battery in the radiator exit area just at the back of the saddle by cutting a hole in the bulkhead. I also mounted my fuel tank under the receiver tray so the C.G stays pretty much the same as the tank empties. Had some great flights yesterday with her and she is ok on grass unless your field is really rough, just some reinforcing of the gear mounts should suffice. A real fun aircraft.

RBean

j301, I had to modify the wheel wells a little. I had to cut our a little for the forks in the struts so the gear would go all the way up. I obtained a Beila 14-8 four blade at a swap meet. Tried it on the DLE 20. It would only turn up to about 4,600 rpm. Rated power is about 8,500 I think. Doesn't work on the DLE 20. Didn't attempt to fly. Looks great static.

flyrcjets

My Feedback: (30)

I maidened my P51 this past week and I love it! I got this at a recent R/C auction changed to EFlite retracts and I am using the new Power 60 with a Ice 100 and APC 16x10 prop. It flies like it's light! No speed demon for sure but a lot of torque, good vertical for scale maneuver's, I'm happy with the 6cell 5000 and long flight times. The balance is good at 5.25 with the battery pretty far forward, It took some down trim as well as the rest. It does get up on the tail fast but it's manageable. I like how it grooves in the turns like a pattern plane which I didn't expect. Finally I have something for the Warbird events!

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

I am using YS 20/20 or Heli fuel... Yes, the Biela is a wide blade prop. Seems to work out from good 2 blade minus 5 in combination of pitch and/or diameter to maintain equal rpm. But it SURE Looks good too. :-) I've got my engine back off trying to get the vibration isolation mounts added and larger fuel tank. Seems every weekend my daughter has had a house full of tweens slowing the shop time down. (I'm a full time Mr. Mom). with the pool now ready... Dad time in the shop is precious.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

That's great! I had thought of converting mine to electric but changed my mind after thinking it through. I remember reading back in the thread that Top Flite had put battery cooling vents in but I don't remember if a battery hatch is already there in the fuse somewhere. I would like to see some pictures of your setup.