devens

I have added 3.5 oz of lead in the tail to move the CG 3/8" from 5-3/8 to 5-3/4. Takeoff with half flaps and the plane lifts off in a very short rollout. I think I am happy here.

airborne14830

I have the nitro model P51 ARf and would like to know would the tower hobbies 605 HD pneumatic be a perfect fit for this plane? I have a heck of a time with the mechanical retracts and the use of a retract servo.

My JR 791 retract servo now has a interference problem that I can't solve. Everytime I move the TX sticks the retract won't s to chatter and move violently.

RC flyer 2

I completed my ship this morning. Balanced it at 5.5" inches from leading edge. Moved the battery back to the elevator servo area, this knocked off 1.25oz of lead from the rear. It now balances with 4.25 oz in the tail. I may purchase a bigger battery pack, 6volt pack to reduce needed weight even more. I figure if your gonna carry the weight, it might as well be helping you...larger battery will provide more tourque and servo speed..

Here are some pictures..

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

is that a Saito 125 and Keleo muffler? Are the exhaust pipes longer than normal? I like the length.

airborne14830

RC Flyer,

What type of retracts did you use?

RC flyer 2

The engine is a saito 115, the muffler is a Keleo stock muffler for this engine. If you look back through my posts, I show pictures of the stock saito muffler installed. I did not like this so I purchased another cowl, along with the Keleo muffler. Looks much better..

The retracts are 605HD with 380 series Robostruts. (3/8" diameter)

crusader4u

Finally finished her, will maiden tomorrow.
The engine is a saito 125, the muffler is a Keleo, I set my c/g up at 5 and 1/4 in.
Thanks for all the ideas in this thread.

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

Edit, retracts were bought and shipped.

kahloq

I guess I could offer mine as well since I never used them. Im also available by PM for information, but JeffH spoke up first so please make sure if you want a set, ask him first.

easton24

My Feedback: (1)

Drdoom I see you used a 120 ax. I plan on using the same engine. What prop are you using and what kind of rpm are you getting? I plan on doing what you suggested in angling the engine so the exhaust is exiting the bottom of the cowl.

easton24

My Feedback: (1)

Well I received my arf from tower yesterday. Monokote looked really good. No wrinkles or bubbles. I was suprised from what I read on this thread. I wont be using the stock mechanical retracts. I was also suprised my robart air retracts fit without any modification. I had some 3.5 robart wheels that fit a little too tight. So will have to go down to 3.25. Really like that this plane was air retract ready having a slot already cut for the air tank. Now just need to get started putting this plane together.

skillet92

Hey guys i just bought this plane and should have it by wednesday. I am putting an OS 110A in it and cannot wait. My question is that last year a bought CJ retracts for the KIT version and then decided to get this version. I see that Tower sells a set of CJ retracts that are made for the ARF. Will my retracts work on the ARF? Or do i need to order the other and sell what i have?

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Why not give CenturyJet a call? I hear their people are very helpful, and they will probably know better than anyone else.

Latest pic of mine, taken a Warbirds Over the Ohio (actually, I think it was more like Warbirds Over the Wetlands):

TWC

These pics are awesome crusader4u ..I cant get over the rivet lines....Sweeeeet.What did you use and how if you dont mine me asking.....

bucho

My Feedback: (6)

first fligth last weakend, it is a candy WITH THE SAITO 100 14X8 MASTER AIRSCREW wow what kind of rc air plane, no problems on tacke off, nice flyer, sweet to land with and with out flaps....

I use robart mechanical landing gear and a hi tech programable digital servo for it, this way I can put END POINT ADJUSTMENT .....

GREAT JOB TF....

GREAT COMBO WITH SAITO 100

QUESTION: WHY LANDING GEAER LOW PROFILE SERVO DOSN´T HAVE END POITNS ADJUSMENT ??????? IT IS REALLY EASIEST TO CALBRATE WITH IT.

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Looks like some straight taping and some good airbrushing! Now if only I could airbrush well! One goof I did notice... the wing Star is upside down!! I almost did the same thing on the underside of mine... caught it in time!


Are you guys gluing the canopy with canopy glue or just using small screws to get access later? Or both?

I am thinking of gluing it all around for the smooth line look... and I don't see a need to get back into it... (unless I land it upside down... then I am sure it will be open anyway! ) LOL

I am almost done. Its been a long build - waiting on parts, cash, and just taking my time and adding lots of detail. I will post my website soon with the pics of the build. Just broke in the saito 125, need to do some fuelproofing, mount engine, hook everything up. Still waiting for Keleo to get me an exhaust! I may just opt for the external stock one and add his later when available. CG & control throws check.. and test flight!


There is the Warbirds over Denver mid June I want to attend and enter my stang - so I am hussling!
Best to all.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay RotorWing Nut,
I glued my canopy with canopy glue...taped it down and it took a week to cure. There is little air inside the canopy, so I drilled two small holes in the aft center to give the moisture some where to exit. It worked.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Congrats on 1st flight, good to hear it was a success.
The problem with retract servos is that they are non-proportional (as opposed to standard servos which ARE proportional). Being non-proportional, they are essentially all or nothing/ end to end. Which is why you made a good decision in choosing proprtional ( and hi-torge, I assume ) servos for your retracts.

Got any pictures to share?

jrod1019

hey corsir jock where did you get those air filter screen holes on your cowl? they look really nice.

bucho

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks, i´ll PUT SOME PICS..

NOW, my hi torq servo wich is use for the retract is very fast, do ya know if my futaba 10 c radio can do something about it ?

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Awhile ago ( and I mentioned it in this thread ), I purchased a set of thin, laser cut ( with holes ) plywood 'oil cooler filter's from a seller in RC MarketPlace who specializes in Mustang modifications ( for various size R/C Mustangs ).
His instructions called for installing these 'filter covers' on the cowl ( which he assumed would be un-painted ). But since these ARF cowls are already painted, I just used the plates as templates, held in place with masking tape while I used a black, fine permanant marker to fill in the holes. It is a recent addition to mine: I did it less then a month ago.

I forgot the guys name, and don't even know if he is still selling them: I'll have to check.
OK, the guy is Tony Howard. You might be able to contact him thru here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...m?memid=127811

I have a 10C also, but am using a 12FG on my Mustang. I don't think the 10C is capable of programming the servos to run slow, but there are aftermarket devices which cost as little as $10 and weigh just a few grams that CAN be used to slow your retract servo down:
http://www.dionysusdesign.com/produc...roducts_id/172
http://www.dionysusdesign.com/produc...roducts_id/164
http://www.dionysusdesign.com/produc...products_id/41

bucho

My Feedback: (6)

urgent help required...

my stang burn 3 hi tech retract servos in a row ( i thoght it was the no end point adjusment and bad asjusment i made )
i bougth a hi tech digital programable servo ( hs5625mg) with a 6 volt battery, I program it to 180 grades and instal it to my stang, i use end point and the servo was working good on the stand yesterday, Today I change the aux channel 5 from sith g to a flap kind swith, that way I can control the up and down speed, and at the time I was testing the new mode the servo GET BURN again, it smell like s...... and it was hot.... can some budy tell me whats going on ???????????? the mechanism is working ok and with the end points adjusment the servo is not forced....

please help.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I do not have any experience with "programable servos", but unless I am mistaken: MOST normal servos have internal stops which prevent them from operating 180 degrees. I'm thinking about 160 is tops on most

hellcat 1

Bucho, I sent you a e-mail but thought I would send this article from RCR. I don't think I 'm infringing upon copyright law as as I sent the letter and pictures. I think you have too much drag in your retract system. That is why you need to measure the curren draw. I would try operating the pushrods by hand to see if they are difficult to operate. The way to measure the current is to cut the red or black wire only and insert an amp meter in series. The red lead on the meter should always point toward the battery and the black toward the servo if you are using an analog meter and inserting the meterin the red wireas shown in the pictures. Sam

easton24

My Feedback: (1)

I had the same problem with the hitech retract servo.  I went through 3 of them also before I just went ahead and got a jr retract servo.  Didnt have a problem after that.  I love hitech servos but there retract servos are c##p.