KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

When I installed the fuel tank tonite I realized when upright, the centerline of the tank is about an inch above the spraybar of the carb. Has anyone running an FS 91 had problems with flooding?

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

Kap,
I use to have a Magnum 91 in mine and that thing if not started right away would flood all the time from being mounted upside down. but anyways photos as promised of DLE 20 install and cockpit dash panel conversion. Oh yeah and the box looking thing behind the pilot seat is my custom RX battery box.

wesjon

My Feedback: (1)

Nice work on the DLE mounting. I mounted mine to the loose mount beforehand with lock nuts and then attached the whole engine with mount to the firewall using an extra long hex key. Be careful of the muffler touching the fuel piping..happened to me but luckily only on ground tests! Not much space around the carb!

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

thanks!!! i heard that about the fuel tubing melting around the muffler

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I don't think it flooded from being upside down, I think it was the tank position. I've got several 4 strokes and 2 strokes that are mounted inverted and I only had problems with one. Changing the engine mounting on that one to 90 deg. solved the problem.

I think I'll use a header tank setup. I've never used a header tank before so I do have one question. If tank #1 (head tank) is at the proper levelcan tank #2 be higher or will it still siphon and flood the engine?

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

Yes it can be higher and it should not be a problem.

Cheers,

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Did you guys use the included pushrods on the elevator and rudder?

badazzgti03

My Feedback: (4)

yes I did use the included push rods on elevator and rudder.

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

No, I used a 4-40 rod in place of the stock issue pushrod. I used a dubro bolt on ball link on the elevator horn, and a steel solder clevis on the servo end. I can't remember if I used the stock rudder pushrod or not....

I_Fly

I used the stock pushrod.   It works find but I have noticed that it has more play than I would like in the elevator surface.   Not something I notice in flight but 1/8" of movement makes me nervous.  I've read forum posts of the metal clevis and horn wearing due to vibration.  One of my winter projects is to open up the covering I put over the opening under the tail and check everything inside.

  

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I used the stock pushrods but I put plastic bushings on the rods and that eliminated nearly all flexing.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay KaP3011,
You can move the fuel tank down about 1" ~ 1.5" and it will give you less flooding. That is what I did to my T.F. Mustang. Just look at the pictures below and you will see how its done. Easy and worked for me. My model is several years old, powered by a K&B 1.00. I'm now going to install a RGC 20cc gas engine and do appreciate all the new work done on this model.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Shaun Evans

Thanks!

Bobby, what paint did you use to Red Tail it up?

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay YellowAircraft,
I used red Momokote and I removed the old covering and reapplied the new Super Monokote covering. It was not a simple job...but took some time to equal the covering job Top Flight did for me. I had a superb covering job on my model, actually...the best I've ever had in any ARF I've bought. To be honest...I learned quite a lot about covering complex curves, by removing the old covering and the re-application of the new covering-following the procedures Top Flight did on my model. This is a first issue kit and I've had if for years. Its my favorite P-51D...flies so sweet and makes me look a lot better then I really am. The only problem I had, was the kit supplied retracts...they were not up to the job...but the Lado retracts I installed, w/Robart struts were.

Now I'm going to re-engine the model and up grade to a RCG 20 cc gas engine. I'm very pleased with my RCG 20 cc gas engine. I installed one on a .60~.90 Big Stick to break it in and get used to running gas engines. I now know how to properly tune the carb and found the best props for it too. I use Master AirScrew "S" series 16x8, 2-bladed prop-getting 8800 to 8910 RPM. I also have used a M. A. 15x7 three bladed prop getting a couple of hundred less RPM-with a slight drop in performance. The best prop was the Xoar 17x6, 2 bladed prop...9000 RPM. My Big Stick came out to a little over 9# and this gas engine pulls my airframe vertical, like its tail is on fire... : )

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Airnondas

My Feedback: (6)

Very nice!!

coronabob

My Feedback: (10)

Bobby,

Which RCG 20cc? from Hobby King? Sounds like a very strong 20cc. Thank you.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

My P-51 is nearly complete, I only have very minor details to complete. I was hoping to have it ready to fly tomorrow but all the rain we've had in N GA. the last 2 weeks have overworked my sump pump and I've had to devote my time the last 3 days to pumping out my basement/hangar before it flooded.

A coupleof the issues I ran across while assembling were the right aileron was thinner than the left aileron by 1/8th of an inch andthe radiator scoop was too tall, I had to cut the lip off and glue balsa strips to the inside. The cowl was a very poor fit to the fusealge. When centered it leaves a 1/16th inch gap just below the plasticexhaust pieces on each side, it is also too short, front to back, by an 1/8th of an inch.

I noticed when I was installing the retracts that if you tighten the screws too tight that the plastic flange flexes. I could only see the flex when the light was at a certain angle.I suspect this may be why the retracts break easily.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay coronabob,
I purchased two of these engines from Hobby King. Its a trip how I managed to get two of these...but it all started out with me trying to buy a DLE 20 cc engine from that store. Hobby King reneged on the deal and I eventually received two of these engines shipped in from their state side store...as a peace offering. I was not able to sell them...so said...lets run them. Big surprise here...they actually perform as good or better then the DLE 20. I have now removed the first RCG 20 from my Big Stick, and installed the second one I received. The second one...out of the box, with a 16x8 M.A. "S" series prop, gave me 8750 RPM and its only had two runs-15 minutes each. I'm amazed at how good this engine runs, and for the money...hard to beat. One is going into my T.F. P-51D and the second one is going to power my T.F. F4U I bought last month.

The covering on my Top Flight models I've received so far have been very good. Yes my F4U needed about an hour or two of work to make perfect...but I look at it as part of the process to build an ARF. Super Monokote is not the easiest covering to apply, but once mastered a bit, the results are really nice.

I land with full flaps and the model seems to be on rails, no matter what I'm doing. I've built and flown many P-51's in the past and by far, this is the best of them all. Its a really nice rendition and very predictable in the air. Landings are sweet and it handles turbulence quite well. We get a lot of cross winds and turbulence at our field, and this model makes any one look good.

I started this build way back in Post #7...and amazed at how long this has run. CorsairJock really did us all some good by starting this thread...and its still evolving. Believe me...no matter how long it takes to get this model airborne...its worth it. She flies that good and looks even better in the air.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

wesjon

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys. Has anybody had any experience with installing the tank in this plane with the vent line tubing coiled at the top of the tank to prevent siphoning? Using a DLE20. Not much space in the tank area so was wondering how others have perhaps installed this?

thanks
Wes

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Will the DLE carb allow the fuel to siphon out when not running?

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Not if it is functioning properly.

wesjon

My Feedback: (1)

The siphoning I mean is when the fuel runs out the vent line straight from the tank. I see its recommended to coil the vent line tubing at the top of the tank.

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

If you have the vent tubing inside the tank going towards the top of the tank, the fuel will not siphon out unless as Lifer pointed out the carb is defective. It's a pumper carb with a diaphragm which only functions when the engine is running. A hole in the diaphragm might cause a leak, but then the engine will not run.

Cheers,

raptureboy

Many prefer looping the vent line because if you tilt the plane up on its nose it will run out the vent if the tank is full, but in normal flight it's not a problem. I plug my line when storing and transporting. I have 3 planes set up this way and no issues at all.

wesjon

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Raptureboy! That is the answer I was looking for!

Wes