j301

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You going to share, or at least show, you findings?
The Keleo I have doesn't seem to weigh much, haven't put it on a scale, but it never occurred to me to weigh it as it didn't trigger any warning bells. Still looking for a header pipe, kind of old news I guess 'cause everywhere Ive checked are out of stock (on no longer in stock that is.)
As for the videos, those are pretty awesome. Ive been an aviation buff all my life, esp. WWII birds, and have had in interest in many. Doing a F4U right now so I have been steeped in that airframe for a little while, but every time I see or hear a mustang, I get this "oh-ya, that IS the one!" feeling. That plane looks fast, elegant, and deadly just sitting there, but to see one fly... (preaching to the chuior right?)

ThunderBoat42

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Oh yeah.. agree on the mustangs...
finally got to upload...
Opened up the lower part of the fuse to house the batteries towards the rear if needed for balance and for an air vent.
Built a discarge vent... not exactly scale but there is a covered open part of the fuse in this location ..
Opened the scoop front and rear.
Had a wooden train whistle. Yeah, two of the 4 (the 2 middle tones) is close to the mustang whistle so cut down the un-needed part sacrificing the high and low tones as seen and mounted in the scoop with a baffle. I did add some extra glass to the scoop in a couple of spots. The whistle mounted on the bottom of the trainer at speed would sound pretty darn good.
Took a shop vac reversed and sent air from the front towards the scoop and it works.... even though its hidden in there. Now .. High speed dives will start at about 30mph (based on the trainer) and increase with speed. Looking forward to trying this out!!!!
Again, this is for fun... I love the experiment... just like that 4 blade prop that's light, scale and works thanks to Biela.

ThunderBoat42

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raptureboy

Cool idea with the whistle, I discoverd the covered opening for the radiator exhaust door the other night by accident. Idon't understand TF, they made a hatch for the electric guys up frontbut nothing in the instructions tells you it's there and now this area in the back that could be opened for cooling air for the batteries??? Very strange, also the tubes for the throttle pushrod runs under the opening for the air valve servo so you can't mount the servo there, and not giving any info for converting to air retracts either????

j301

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A train whistle!? I hope you realize that is now your responsibility, nay, you DUTY to provide video of it in action once you get it done! But really, that's one of those "cool, from left field, but cool" ideas, hope it works!

ThunderBoat42

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YES.. a video is a prerequisite!!!    I was searching everwhere for a whistle that would duplicate that tone of the full scale and a kid walked by blowing one and I thought ... "Yeah"... so ordered it online for about $6.00 delivered (I should have gotten 2).   I also have been holding on to a Nerg whistling football for about 15 years... for this very application.. a Mustang.   The trian whistle with the two middle tones being ideal.   Just about hyperventilated typing out different combinations of 1, 2 and 3.   Landed on the middle 2. 

Again, just an off the wall idea to differentiate from "just another arf"

j301

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Dang it, now I have to start looking for (or paying attention to) things that whistle,,,I'll never get anything done.....

ThunderBoat42

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J ... while I am having to keep myself from thinking about adding a Kelo exhaust

j301

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This is why re-hab centers and probation officers don't let people with addiction hang out with people with addiction,,,[:@]
Since I am now working on the plane the Japanese called "whistling death", F4u, I started thinking about ways to steel your idea. The air frame doesn't have the same "ins and outs" as the 51, it's pretty much a tube. I was thinking I could generate wind with a cheep-o 55mm ducted fan unit and some mylar perhaps. Only in its infancy, but I can see a small 3c lipo and esc assigned to one of the rotary knobs on my radio. (it was here that I acknowledged steps one and four of AA's [airplanes anon.] 12...)

ThunderBoat42

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This is the one I ordered for the future Corsair project to check out. it's loud enough and flat enough it can go in the cowl and wouldnt need much airflow.

j301

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Found this with a little poking around. Would think you would want to engineer a way to turn it off though. There is a video of a Park Zone P51 with it attached floating around the net, its pretty loud.
http://www.warbirdreplicas.co.uk/Air-Whistle/33.htm

ThunderBoat42

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That look identical to the one on the nerf football. It has 3 each with a different pitch.

ThunderBoat42

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OK Peoples with flying examples... getting close to balancing... 5.25" in reading back seems to be the magic spot.

I am looking for a bigger tank too. I need to be at 18 to 24 ounces and get the fuel back a little closer to the LE.

Batteries... I have a 2100 mah LiFe ... with the 9402's ... electric gear... and that cool digital sullivan on board glow igniter... Will need more.
The Glow I am going to run on it's own battery... propably a 1100 mah 4.8 std receiver battery. I am thinking with these high power servos I sould add a second Life 2100 to the system. (?)

THis is a cool onboard gizmo for the Lipo/Life batteries.
http://www.fromeco.org/products/prod...5-96733e54cecc

j301

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I haven't seen your on board driver, but dont they usually take a single 1.2v battery? As for your LiFe batteries, I usually run a three wire system, +, -, and signal on a male servo extension. The signal goes to the bar that ties the two cells together, you can then remove the signal wire from your RX side of a heavy duty switch and build a single cable out of one JXT male connector and one servo extension, then you can balance using just your jack (or JR type heavy duty sw. without the external jack). If you go to :
http://www.hangtimes.com/a123rxsetup.html , then half way down to "*Leveling the Playing Field - Upgrading your 1st Generation 2 cable charger to Single Cable compatability" you can see how they do theirs. A123's put out more then your NiMh or NiCads, 2100 is quite a lot, but if you want more, just run two on two switches, though I would only do this if you plan on really throwing the plane around, and all day long!

ThunderBoat42

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It's the Sullivan Digital OBGDriver. It has built in regulator so it can be run off receiver or an indep. pack. It also Y's in with the throttle servo where you can program in the on/off points.
Thanks on the other... I will look into it deeper tontight.

ThunderBoat42

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Thanks for the site info... this set up is do-able with the batteries I have now and alot cheaper of a set up. I like it and easy to assemble. I am using a Hitec X4 Ac/DC Charger... so there is a lot of flexibility.

I got a couple of these switches to try out.. and using one on a trainer... it's a charge switch in one.. looks cool too.
http://www.swgiantscalemodels.com/st...671&pd=4998662


The sullivan is in this MAN article along with a couple of others... I like the larger battery availability and it flush mounts for easy access/adjustment. I got this to minimize the inverted engine flame out at lower rpm.
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blo...ce-and-safety/

j301

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They talk about using 20g wire, but 22g is good up to 7 amps, and on theses littler planes, even the bigger planes using two packs in parallel, you wont see that much amperage anyway (if you do, it will likely be a spectacular, and final flight!) -talking normal, 3D guys need bigger stuff for all that flopping about.
For some reason the site with the switches isn't expanding the pics of the switches so I cant really tell whats going on with them. Are those the ones that go to charge side with the plug then to RX when you take out the plug? I seen a Canadian guy selling those a while back ( http://www.canuckengineering.com/new...s/switch-jacks same idea?)
thought that was a good idea, fail safe on, no getting shot down by a switch! Yours look like they cost a little less. let me know how they work out. Can you check voltage through it though? Or would you have to pull the wing, a hatch, or mount the charge lead outside the plane?
Ive been building my own packs for a while out of 18650 3.2V 1100mAh LiFePO4 cells, would these work for your glow driver as well? Might be lighter then NiMh packs.

ThunderBoat42

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I'll take some picks of the switch/plug. Yes, it comes with a charge plug as well pigtail. I am extending it to banana pugs for the charger with a futaba M to f connector for the voltage meter use while at the field. Pretty cool all in one connector. When it off.. you know it... it's flagged.

raptureboy

Careful using a std voltage load tester that most use tocheck nicads with. The LiFe batteries will blow them out and besides they will show 3.4 volts almost right to the end of their capacity. The best way to check them is charge them fly a flight and then recharge and calculate your safe # of flights. I plug my lipo voltage tester right into the balance tap that is on the Hangtimes charge lead to check the voltage to make sure they are staying balanced, and I always bal charge them. I am using a 10 oz tank since I amusing gas,strapped to the plywood receiver tray to be closer to the CG point.

j301

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Ya I was talking about making a charge lead out of 22awg, since you typically (or at least I do anyway) charge at 1C, which would be one big@$ pack to get that high. He must have been using digital servos to brown out like that? I know most elect. gear only take .5 ish amps. Are you going to put a switch to your gear battery? That would provide your second "back up" if you ran it back to the receiver too wouldn't it? Since you now have me thinking batteries, I cycled most of my LiFe packs today, still think I'm in the clear (after counting MaH in and out) for my normal 4 to 5 flight days, but will likely start double switching things now.

wesjon

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Hey guys. What size LIFE batteries are you running for the RX? I have electric retracts but will set them up using an isolated battery so the LIFE would only be powering 7 servos. Using a Powerbox switch with regulator built in.

thanks

ThunderBoat42

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I'm running the 2100 mah.   But still in build phase...  Working on tank and cutting spinner for the 4 blade prop today

Duplicator41

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Hey T-Boat:

Have you weighed your P51 with all the goodies on it? Just curious as I'm working on finishing my TF 51.

Cheers,

ThunderBoat42

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No ... not yet... ..   When I get the engine mounted I will probably go ahead and put the balance on the scale to start seeing where everything needs to go.

Lifer

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I realized that no one has mentioned a cooling option for this Mustang that I employed several years ago. No pictures, but here is what I used. A 13/64ths drill bit can be used to open up the exhaust stacks into the upper engine cavity. On mine, the front 5 on each side can be drillled out. The back two on my plane were blocked so I don't count those. The total of 10 such opening results in an addition 2 inch opening that will effectively extract heat due to the negative pressure generated.

Second, there is a knock-out behind the cylinder that is typically used for electrics plus an opening at the back of the radiator scoop that only needs removal of the covering. That plus the opening for control horn access at the back greatly increases the total opening for heated gasses. The heated air passing through the fuse has created no problems for me over the last several years.

Hope this helps.