raptureboy

Glad you got it all worked out. Did you fly it without the kill switch? So you have the left roll with flaps also; makes me wonder if there is not some other issue going on since mine does the same thing and I can't see any big difference in the settings. They both look pretty much right on.

acdii

Mine had no roll tendencies with flaps down. Did you measure them at the root when they are down to make sure the drop equally? What I did notice is one will sit a little higher than the other when retracted, so I balanced them out so both are tight against the fuse, then adjusted the links so they were down equally on each side. I would rather there be a slight trim adjustment during flight with flaps up than fighting a roll with them down. This is what mine encountered set up this way, has a slight roll to the left, so when I get it back to flying condition I will adjust the aileron links so the radio is centered more so I have equal throws with wings leveled. Just a touch down on the left and up on the right should do it. unfortunately 3 of the 4 wing servos will need new gears so I have to do the setup all over again and retrim before I can correct the center.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

I flew with a different Rcexl opto switch. I have it set up to where my radio has two kill settings, one with a throttle cut, and the other with just the opto on its own switch so I can prime the motor without engaging the throttle cut but still have the ignition off. Trying this one with no physical kill switch to see if its something I like or not.
As far as the flaps, I re-did the linkages to get them as close to the same spot on both flaps, but then noticed one push-rod angle is quite a bit different. I opened up one servo hole and trimmed off some of the blocks to try and move the servo over to negate some of that, but still its not enough. Its a design flaw from the factory. Its no a big deal to me, if it bugs me too much I will just hit one click of trim over on the ailerons, or program the radio to do if for me. I could also get a 10 channel receiver and just program the flaps separately, but so far i don't thinks its a big enough deal to worry about.
Couldn't wait, factory decals are on and I'm impatiently waiting its next outing!

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I had a similar problem with my flaps on a TF Cessna 182, the P-51 flaps are hinged the same way. The problem on the Cessna was that the flap hinges were not glued in properly on both sides, causing one flap to be out of alignment with the other when deployed. The farther they were down, the worse they were, at full down the plane would roll slightly to the right. I wound up drilling out the hinge points and re-mounting the flaps, taking great care to get them both exactly in the same position. When I assembled my P-51, I remembered the problem with the Cessna and also took great care to get the flaps aligned with each other exactly. The results are that they both go down exactly the same on both sides and there is absolutely no roll when deployed, no matter what position they are in and they also both close the same on both sides. Another thing I did was match my flap servos, by that, I mean that I tested all my servo's till I had two that centered in the same place and had the same throw.
Everything on both sides have to be exactly the same, servo arms, control rods, position of the horns, everything. Otherwise, they will not be in-sync with each other. It was a PITA but worth it in the long run.

raptureboy

All good tips on the flaps. I did notice that the one flap is not as tight to the trailing edge as the other and when down there is a noticable gap on the hinge line. I reset the horns and have both on seperate channels so I can adjust the throws individually. They pull up tight to the wing fillet when up but I have not measured them with a ruler when down. I may rehinge the one side to correct it. J3 I am just using 1 heavyduty switch to power the rec and ign, and using the opto to turn off the power to the ignition as well as having the failsafe set to kill the throttle servo on signal loss. I noticed the same problem with the flap horns and I believe it's because of the servo setup being reversed to allow the use of a wye to control the flaps. I use an 8 channel receiver and power the kill swwitch and receiver with a wye plugged into the battery slot

acdii

That could be the reason for the roll, if the throws are equal but the hinge line is off then the one with the gap would throw it out of balance. It the one with the gap on the side that lifts on the roll?

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

I have a DLE 20 that needs a home, Ive got one in a Hangar 9 P-47D that flys great. Im might have to talk myself into getting one of these Mustangs! Are most of you guys using the stock retracts or going with the robarts?

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

The stock retracts will "barely" work. Eventually, the plastic internals will wear/fail. You don't need to spend big bucks for Robarts though. These cheapo's from Hobby King will work just fine: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html

Then add these legs to finish the deal: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...161mm_2pc.html

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Those are the retracts I'm using too, but I found the stock wheel too big for the struts so I went with these; http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/HAN242012 , though I should have gotten some inserts from Robart. Instead I opened up the holes in the trunnions to fit the piano wire that fit inside the struts. The walls were too thin to take a tap and hold, so I ended up just using jb weld. If I have to redo it I will get another set of trunnions and call Robart for the inserts.

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

Some good info there guys! Thanks.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

The Hobby King struts will take a 3" wheel which will work great on pavement and OK on grass.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Go with EFlite 85 degree electric retracts and outfit them with Robart struts and wheels.

flyrcjets

My Feedback: (30)

That is my set up as well and it works flawless.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I agree...if you have $250 to spend go with the Eflites and Robart struts. If you only have $50 to spend go with the HKs.

Quigleywins

Should be a good fit some time in the morning.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

The curse of the "decals applied" lives on.
Took the 51 out for its second flight yesterday. The VVRC 20 started acting up, only wanted to run with the choke. I re-adjusted the needles and got it to run, seemingly well. Did some taxiing, even a high speed, two wheel all the way down the runway pass. All seemed ok. Lined up, advanced the throttle, fed in the rudder, all was still well. Rotated, got to about 15' and "pherrrrrt, pherr-phrt,,,,,," Started to what I would call 4 cycle in a glow motor, down to about 1/4 power at best, likely less. I was afraid to kill the throttle as I thought it would die all together. (in the desert if you ditch, its in really rough rocks and other not so nice things, the softest part is the blacktop) Got it around, flat and slow, all the way to the runway when it finally snapped and went in hard. Was a total loss. The motor seems ok, but still if I cant trust it, its part of the 100% loss.
So I have been contemplated contacting VVRC. Their customer service is supposed to be great, but will they believe I just didn't crash and blame the motor? I should have pulled the p.o.s. and sent it back from the start, but this wasn't my first gasser, and I figured if I could get a Hobby King TGY 52 to start and run reliably every time, I figured one with this reputation should be a piece of cake.
I've lost a few birds, but I have to say this one hurts! I was looking forward to putting this one away in about 5 years as it "just couldn't handle one more flight" if you know what I mean.

Poitivin

Sorry to hear that

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Damn that sucks j301! I hate hearing that. I've felt that kind of pain before myself, lost a beautiful P-40 on the maiden a few years ago.

acdii

I crashed my Chipmunk due to engine failure, yet that one I built from a kit, not an ARF, so I feel your pain. Thankfully the Chip is repairable. Seems like these 51's do like to snap, thats how I crashed mine, though mine was due to pilot error, not engine failure.

raptureboy

Major bummer! I have had some close calls on mine with dead stick landings, and have learned that if I am not close to the runway or low on altitude to keep the gear and flaps up and belly in so I can keep up as much speed as possible. I also will use the rudder more to turn so as to avoid getting one wing to slow and developing a stall. I hope you can get the engine figured out.

lfd47

My Feedback: (13)

I just finished installing WingSpan 90 degree electric retracts in my Mustang. They have a built in delay that you can set. I am using the Robart 653 struts and Robart 3 1/4" wheels. I had to dremel out some of a wing rib under the retract to get it to fit. They are well built and work great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEys4RSYOlU

acdii

I have a set of those for my Kit built 51, got them at the Toledo show.

Poitivin

Almost There!
Made a few changes in the cockpit and a side hatch for the power dual switch

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Looks good Poitivin!
I should unsubscribe this thread before it costs me another $350 (to start!), but I just can't seem to.
I sent the VVRC 20 back, Tom wanted to see it, I was going to put it on a 60 size stick to test it out, but am curious to see what he finds.

For you electric converts, I was thinking this might be a great candidate to run electric due to the smallish nose. I really liked the way it flew, and can see electric being a great platform.
So here is what I need to know: I have a Castle Phoenix 125 I would like to use (and not spend $$$ on another controller) but its the older one that was only good for 3 to 6 cells. I need a motor that would work, with a little oomph to spare-always, with a 6 c limitation. I was thinking a Hacker A50-20L, as I have a line on one, but am worried the TF might be a bit heavy and need an 8 cell with this motor?
Also, on a budget, I was looking at a Turnigy SK3 5055-430kv from HK:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dproduct=40690
and thought it might work as well, but again would need to be a 6 cell.

I'll let you know what Tom says about the 20cc when I get it back. Until then, I will just sit here jealous of all you TF P51 flyers....

flyrcjets

My Feedback: (30)

All I know is I'm happy with my EFlite BL60B in my P51 which smoked the same plane as mine with a Saito 4 stroke and a H9 P47 running 30c gas. Light, fast and has great flight times.