j301

My Feedback: (12)

Ya it was your advice that lead me to build in some air dams in the intake, and a heat shield/air dam between the muffler and the carb. This is why I mentioned taking care to keep cool, I don't believe the heat was the issue with my VVRC 20, it would stop running correctly before it had a chance to get that hot, plus no cowl and a shop fan during the on-board trouble shooting. I'm hoping fastbullitt is going back and catching all this! A ton to read, but worth the effort.

"Hi Guys,
need some advice. I bought the DLE 20CC. what battery (LiPo) do you recommend for the ignition, and I need recommendation for Gas tank (Fuel) that fit in the P-51.
Thanks in advance
Meir"

Speaking of fastbullitt, I used a LiFe Po4 2c, 1100mah on mine. I used the tail wheel hatch to get access to the back "cubby-hole" and mount it vertically just aft of the wheel along side the fuse. I would suggest LiFe over LiPo's as they are much safer to deal with. Once you mount them you don't have to pull them to charge, and with a DLE 20 you are going to want to have "usable weight" to balance and avoid "dead weight" as much as you can. They also are happy to be stored charged, and will hold that charge for a long time. I've switched out all my rec. and ign. batts to these and will never look back. Still use LiPo's for electric planes, just not for the gassers. As for the tank, I moved mine back to where the receiver tray was, so the stopper poked just through the space where the back of the tank would normally be. Had to do some fabing, ended up strapping the tank just above the tray-kept the straps a little lose-screwed the tray down-tightened the straps. It helped the fuel load stay closer to COG. Think I glued down some angle stock as "feet" in a couple of spots. I would be really happy to send you some pics-because that would mean mine wasn't, like my little motto reads, a box of sticks... (working from memory, we're all in trouble now...)

raptureboy

+2 on the LiFe battery. I use a 2650mah with duel leads to run both my receiver and ignition on one battery. 4- 10-12 min flights will only use 700-800 mah. Sorry about the mid air. My buddy and I did the same thing a few weeks ago. I was flying a foamy corsair and he a GS stearman. I was about 30' off the ground and out of no where he pulls out of a loop and WAM! I went through his wings taking out his ailerons and his plane goes up and rolls over and goes in nose first at full throttle right at his feet on the flight line. My lose was only $100 his was $$$$

acdii

I have a 2600mah LIFE on my T-clips running the RX and Saito Ignition. It also has the dual leads, and after an hour flying it used 760mah. One thing to be watchful for on the DLE, Verify it can accept high voltage. Earlier modules said they can take up to 6 volts, but most died with a 5 cell NiMh. It should state 7.4 volts on the module, then you are good.

PLANE JIM

My Feedback: (109)

It only takes two to have a midair!!! GO FIGURE!

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

And you figured that out all by yourself!

Poitivin

Thanks
Ran out of time for the moment but as soon I have it back I'll post how it went for the break-in.

Tanapol

Here's mine. I have made a maiden with 5-1/4 for C.G. (added 160 grams lead to the tail) but the tail is still too heavy with O.S. 120 FS SIII w/ Pump. She flew very solid and nice.
I gradually removed the lead out each 25 grams, until remained only 85 grams then she fly quite straight with one or maybe 2 clicks for elevator down.
I have removed the muffler and been very impressed the sound.

Check the clip videos here:
Maiden:
http://youtu.be/GC2ZoXsqME4 Landing w/ full flaps:
http://youtu.be/-vzH-vqlPZI Impressive Sound:
http://youtu.be/fWVzMIY57IY My club's thread: http://www.rcthai.net/board/index.ph...B8%9A/page-137

ken78cvx20

My Feedback: (3)

Welcome to the forum

And great job on the your Mustang looks like she handles great on the ground and especially in the air.

Yes and you just got to love the sound of a good running four stroke.

Also great job on your first post I enjoyed it very much.

Ken

Poitivin

Looks Great, congrats!

Did you made any pics on the tail wheel assembly ?

Tanapol

Thanks Ken and Poitivin.

At that time, I was intended to maiden her first as I am still afraid to make an operation at tail wheel. I looked inside the tail wheel install place and felt it could take time for modifying to fit with the robart tail wheel retract, but it is not too difficult.
However, I already prepared things that need to have this job complete, i.e. Dubro 2-56 pull-pull system, couple of mighty mini servos for retracting and steering. I will keep you posted if any updates.

Again, thank you very much guys for your warm welcome.

Poitivin

you're welcome
i have the tail wheel too but am planning that for a possible second wave as first i still need to finish few remaining tasks over the setup

chorner

Nice sounding plane I have the same motor, wondering what propellor you're using and what RPM you're getting

Tanapol

Hello Choner,

Thanks for watching that video clip
I use 15x8 Master Airscrew with 8,500 RPM when it was broken-in around 5 tanks. I intended to get it be rich.
Anyway, I haven't measured yet after I optimize the high speed needle (not too lean, not too rich). I will keep you posted update soon when I get the optimized RPM.

Picky Bando

hi i just bought and have started building the P - 51D Mustang kit i am new to this and was wondering as a new builder if i should build the retractable gear or fixed . also i never noticed retractable gear in kit only bar s for fixed landing is that correct .do i need to buy extra parts to build the retractable gear. one more thing i was wondering about is on the stabilizer sheeting they have a cutout pattern into 4 parts then glued together . on mine i sheeted it all in one peace on both sides looks great but will this present any issues or problems because i made it this way any help would be greatly appreciated thanks .

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

The retracts are only included in the ARF version of the plane. Retracts add a huge "complication factor" to any plane....you're constantly fiddling with them it seems. A simple fixed gear is stronger and lighter, but lacks the cool look of having the wheels tucked away. If you feel that you can land the plane smoothly every time then retracts are feasible. If you expect to smack the ground hard now and then you're going to be doing a lot of wing repairs.

Picky Bando

hey thanks for info im thinking as this is my first build ill stick to fixed landing gear then and next one ill try retractable landing gear. i must say building these rc planes is a great get away and time just flies by building . do you think there is any issues with me using one sheet to cover the stabilizer instead of the 4 peace pattern they suggest in plan.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

OK, I'll be the one to admit it...Here on this board we cheat... This thread is for the ARF version, though many here have and/or can stick build, you might have more luck on a kit build version board as to the gear or sheeting issues. Sheeting to most of us in this particular thread is what happens when we get too close to the ground going too fast (or at the wrong angle)! ('cause then we gotta buy another plane-in-the-box!)
For my $.02, I would do electric retracts in your case. You have the perfect opportunity to beef up gear rails without having to geef up the pretty covering to fix the arf version ones like we had to do here.
Best of luck with the build, and I for one would love to see pics when you were done if you want to post a few for us cheaters to see!

oly 9

Boys, after 118 pages you should know you don't build an arf you assemble it.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Never seen an arf with plans like Picky's, you?

brianjt

My Feedback: (1)

No one sheet is fine, in fact probably better as no seams to deal with. Just be carful when you do the covering not to score the sheet with the knife across the grain, it will destroy it's structural integrity, iv'e built the kit and the arf, both are great flyers....

Brian

Picky Bando

thanks Brian and guys sorry for posting in wrong area looks like theres a new language ill have to pick up on lol. never been on a forum before not sure how it all works but ill post pics of build on my page if i can or where its safe to in right area . thanks guys .

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Think you will find most everyone here is a Mustang fan, and willing to help, so keep the q's and pics coming, no law against posting in a couple of threads! (just wanted to make sure you knew there was another resource out there for you)

raptureboy

Try this thread. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-51-build.html lot's of good info for kit building.

fastbullitt

Hi guys,
I think I made a mistake, let me know what you think.
I bought DLE 20 cc for the .60 P-51 TP. I just installed it and notice that there is no place for the muffler (the stock), so I thought I can by the one that split for two and notice there is no such thing and I bought the wrong engine. DLE have one with rear exhaust.
Any suggestion?
Is there a muffler I can buy (eBay?) to the rear of the engine.
Please advice as I want keeps the cowl clean as possible.
Thanks
Meir

j301

My Feedback: (12)

There are a few choices for the wrap around pitts style muffler, unfortunately the ebay ones (that are more affordable) are generally all around bigger and will hang out of the cowl. People, myself included, generally go for the JTec pitts:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBFYT&P=7
Its tighter fitting then any other I found.
Tower looks like they have another new style too:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBFYV&P=7
but I haven't seen it in person, and its a bit more $$$ ( on top of JTec's $$$).
I still had to cut a small crescent shape hole for one of the corners, but the ebay ones would have really stuck out.