acdii

You can get a Pitts style for the DLE. http://www.milehighrc.com/muffler.html I have the one shown on this page and it works well, though there may be others out there that have a smaller side extension, but the restrictions could hurt performance. It will still stick out of the cowl, but not as much as the stock one. The RA would be a better choice for this plane though.

Picky Bando

right on thanks for the links.

chorner

Has anyone else been having as much of an issue as I am in keeping the retracts and retract rails in one piece? I've popped the retract rails clean out of the right wing now twice in a row, on two separate wing sets. Terribly designed, and next to no glue on the retract rails. It's ridiculous! Love the plane and engine combo other than that, but wow... if I have to fix the right retract rails on every other flight what's the point

Frustrated... I can't be the only one with this ARF having the same issue?

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Chorner,
Its quite common to have week or brittle retract rails week on any ARF...period. Its sad, but true and I always beef up my retract rails...always. You also need to pre drill for your screws that hold in the retracts...and I suggest you use aluminum servo screws to hold down your retracts, after you pre drill the holes for them. The advantage in using aluminum allen-head servo screws, is, that when you have one of your less then perfect landings, you will pop the heads off of the aluminum screws and allow your retractable landing gear to exit the model.

Before you go crazy with this information...hear me out. If you rip your landing gear out...your going to pull the landing gear mounting rails out...at a minimum, probably damage your landing gear and tear hell out of the inner wheel well. Ask me how I know... : ) With aluminum servo screws holding down your retractable landing gear in place, the heads will pop loose in bad landings and exit aft. You will have a minor repair to the underside of the wing and with the landing gear out of the model...the aluminum screws will have a nub sticking out that allows you to put mini-vise grips on them...and twist them out. You will not brake or split your landing gear servo mounting rails and your back in business with a minor repair.

I always mix up some slow drying epoxy and coat the complete landing gear wheel well area. I also place shaped hard wood blocks under the stock kits hard wood blocks, up against the under side top of the wing and while the slow epoxy is drying, make sure you lay up a little 2 oz. glass cloth into the bottom area. Yes, you will add an ounce or two of weight to each wing, but it will greatly improve you strength of your landing gear blocks. I have two Top Flight ARF P-51's and both were modified as stated above. Since my repair, I've had no issues with my wing landing gear mounting rails.

You must also make sure the hard wood rails are up to the job. Some kits come with hard and brittle retract landing gear rails and I opt to replace these rails prior to the build and first flight.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

chorner

Thanks Bob for the excellent reply, I will definitely look into the aluminum allen-head servo screws. What happened in my case -I did pre drill for the screws just to note, and poured a few rounds of thin CA in and around the hole to harden the wood- was that the rails held up perfectly in-tact, still connected solidly to the retracts. They just ripped clean straight out of the top of the wing without busting anything but the thin balsa sheeting... the rails popped out surprisingly clean with no other damage, so the repair is actually pretty straightforward. It will actually give me the chance to beef things up all the way down the length of the front and rear hardwood rail, so I'll probably do as you suggested and coat the retract area and place some extra hardwood bracing in there.

I think the major problem with this P-51 is how close the retract rails are to the leading edge of the wing. With how they are installed, it allows them to twist and pull up pretty easily... no real support at all especially if there's minimal glue used on the ARF.

Good little plane otherwise, but I think some definite attention needs to be paid to the retract mounts. It's too bad it's not done right from the beginning... not to mention how much of a PITA it is to just drop retracts in this ARF. It's not a straight drop-in fit at all, mostly due to the fact that the stock wire struts come out at an angle vs. the angle of the retract mechanism.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

If you read back through the thread you will find many reports of the mounting rails coming out or splitting including mine. Most of the reports did not involve rough landings. Mine was a normal landing in the grass if my memory serves me correctly. However, as Bob pointed out above, once they are beefed up there is usually no more problems. Don't forget to do both wings.

BTW - If anyone is interested, I have a spare set of wings that I would sell for $80 + shipping.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha,
What I did to the leading edge, is mix in a bunch of shredded fiberglass (lots of it) into slow set epoxy-and with the wing sitting vertical on its leading edge, place the epoxy laced fiberglass, from the forward retract rail, to the leading edge of the wing. I used a good bit of this mixture and it hardened into a solid support for the forward landing gear mounting hard wood rail. It has never failed me again.

I made a hard wood long stringer that fit under the aft, retract mount, that sat up against the top of the wing sheeting, and contacted the aft retract rail, top. I also spread a good bit of epoxy, with shredded fiberglass (not as much added this time), all over the retract bay. Don't be shy...the weight gain is not that much really and if your going to beef up this airframe at all...this is the best place to do it. After these modifications, I never had any issues with my retractable landing gear.

I removed all the factory covering on tail section of my ARF and covered it as a "Red Tail." All my P-51's are Red Tails, and have been for two decades. I learned a good bit of how they covered the tail section and it taught me how to re-do it. The recover came out almost perfect, and is still holding up today.

I ruined my first set of wings and had to buy another wing set. This time I properly modified my retract bays and they are still holding up. $80.00 is a good price for the wing...but not needed...yet.

My model just groves in the air, and it has lots of power. The K&B 1.00 pulls it quite fast too and has an excellent vertical. Full flap landings are a solid and predictable, even with a bit of cross wind too-just keep your speed up on approach. Great flying model.

Soft landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

For all those including myself who had to add excessive down trim to maintain level flight take notice. The fault may be your elevator not being level at "O" trim. I found this out after my maiden flight on the work bench . I checked; wing and tail incidences, engine down thrust and CG location and they appeared to be fine. Last but not least I disconnected the elevator servo arm with the elevator push rod still attached and clamped the elevator to the neutral position. That is when I discovered that the servo arm was not 90 digress to the output shaft of the servo. This gave enough up elevator to make the plane climb and the need for down trim. I'm not saying that you have the same problem but it would not hurt to investigate the possibility.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

For all those who are complaining about the mounting rails for the retracts being poorly constructed you might think again. I have twelve flight on this airframe and after flying today I experienced an electrical issue with my EFlite retracts. Removing the retracts from the airframe allowed me to inspect the integrity of the mounting structures. I even used an inspection mirror to visually see underneath what was going on with the attachment points. I noted nothing but yet others on this forum have suffered structural failure. The AUW of my airframe dry is 11 lbs so we can call it a "lead sled". I'm using like everyone else modified Robart struts with matching Robart wheel assemblies. So why are my rails standing up were as others have failed? I'm doing something that I believe others are not and that is I'm using Robart foam inserts in the tires. It is my believe that the inserts are absorbing the impact load upon landing and not transferring this shock to the mounting rails. Just a though you decide.

raptureboy

Using 3-/12 robart wheels with the inserts and have tornout the mounts twice, once on each side. Although my landings are not always perfect the cheap hot glue or even lack of, and the location of the mounts so close to the leading edge leads to many of these failures. I replaced both my mounts with real maple and epoxy and no more broken mounts. I recently pulled the screws right out of the mount on a botched cross wind landing. plugged the holes with hardwood dowel and remounted. Back to flying again. Grass fields also are rough on gear and mounts. But you are right about the inserts they really help keep the tires from rolling over and causing nose overs. I bought a roll of the foam caulking backer from the Depot for my wheels, same stuff Robart sells but alot cheaper.

warhwk

My Feedback: (3)

This is my second TF P-51. YS-110, 15-8 prop, Robart mechanical retracts, heavy duty hardware. It really purrs on 30% nitro.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Thanks for the reply and your point is valid concerning grass fields. I fly off a dry lake bed and that is like day and night.

Flying Fiz

I pick up my big box from my LHS tomorrow. These ARF's are $500 in Australia so I hope I get a good one! Never had a Top Flite ARF before, mainly Hangar 9.

I have read lots of this thread and it has been and will continue t be a great source of invaluable info.

I have a choice of either spare electric motor or a NIB Evolution 20cc gasser. Being a warbird I think I'll go the gasser, I have the Evolution 33cc engine in a 73" PilotRC Yak 54 and it pulls like a train, so I suspect the 20cc should be good as well. It has the same bolt template as the DLE and OS gassers so I know it will fit perfectly.

Very excited but there is a little trepidation as well as I fly off a (reasonably good) grass strip and the weak LG issues have me nervous. I'll beef them up by soaking some thin CA in the wood support and some 30 min epoxy everywhere. I think I'll put in electric retracts as I have some spare Eflite retracts and Oleo legs.


It should be ready for flying by Christmas!! What a perfect present.

Cheers,

Phil

Sonicman

Best of luck Phil on putting her together, and let us know how the maiden goes. This Mustang flies on rails once you get it dialed in, and looks great on those low high-speed passes. I too fly off grass, and have not had any problems with my retracts, as I did basically the same thing as you in using epoxy to re-inforce that area. The Oleo struts will definitely help as well.

acdii

+1 on the oleos, the wire ones that come with it are too weak and bend easy, the Eflite ones are stronger but dont fit the wheel wells, the spring coil sits too high.

Still hoping I can get mine "dialed" in some day, it has a nasty habit of flipping over on its back if too much up is applied to quickly, regardless of how fast it is going, in fact, the faster it goes, the quicker the flip. Thats what grounded it last time, happened on a go around that had plenty of speed to prevent a stall. Wondering if the slight twist in the elevator has something to do with it.

raptureboy

Phil forgo the CA it really does nothing. Try to get as much epoxy and ground fiberglass packed into the area around the leading edge under and around the mounts where they meet the ribs. Also use a short screw to mount the gear with as they will pull out if you really bang one in hard rather than ripping out the whole gear mounts. Easier to plug damaged screw holes with dowels than rebuild a wing. These planes build out heavier than most H9 that I have seen and it's not a floater so some speed is needed to land or it will stall out and snap. Flying it all the way to the ground just like the real deal is the trick, chopping the throttle just before the wheels touch down.

Flying Fiz

Thanks for the all tips guys, I will be shaking in my boats that first landing I can tell you that's for sure!

I will use the hex headed aluminum servo screws for the retracts as mentioned earlier, I think that is a great tip. I also may shim the LG a bit forward if that doesn't upset the CG too much. I love the look of this bird, I just hope it isn't too difficult for orientation purposes, it may be very well camouflaged against the bush that will be behind it on final turn in and approach.
I have learnt )from bitter experience) since I have been flying these last two years that flying all low wing planes right to the ground with power on is the only way to go. It's just a matter of doing it.

Cheers,
Phil

Well I'm off to my LHS in one hours time, I feel like a kid at Christmas!

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

If you are using Robart struts, I recommend putting in softer springs. The Robart ones are way too stiff.

Cheers,

Flying Fiz

No I'm using the Eflite ones.

JoeMamma

Hi,

I'm using the E-Flites along with Robart struts on mine. It's a fairly easy adaptation using a pair of cut-down 5mm drill bits or 5mm drill blanks.

The springs on my Robart struts were also shortened a little for more compliance. I'm not the only one that made this mod and you can find the details by doing a search of this thread.

If you are using the E-Flites, the weakest part of the assembly is where the two tiny wires go into the retract motor. They break off at the motor due to engine vibration. My fix to cut down on vibration is to place a big dab of clear silicone where the wires join the motor.

Joe M.

JoeMamma

I forgot to mention..........the picture of the broken wires was from the first flight on my Hangar 9 Phoenix 7.

Joe M.

Flying Fiz

Wow that's a great bit of information to know. I'll get out the hot glue gun and insulate those wires.

Thanks for the tip Joe.

Cheers,

Phil

JoeMamma

Actually, hot glue may be a little too stiff. Pick up a small tube of clear bathtub silicone.

Joe M.

acdii

I keep a tube of silicone gasket sealer in my toool box that I use for just such purposes, sealing exhaust pipes on the 4 strokes, sealing holes, and this would be a good app too.

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

Be careful, some silicones produce acetic acid and will corrode terminals. Make sure it's safe for electrical work.

Cheers,