JoeMamma

I'm sure a lot of you guys have heard of this. If not, please check it out. It has always worked great for me for some added insurance on those high-stress areas. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK312&P=7

Joe M.

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

Great stuff. Be sure to wear a mask when mixing.

Cheers,

JoeMamma

Thanks.......a mask......Absolutely !

Some more words of wisdom: A few years ago I was drilling a piece of carbon-fiber tubing. Within a few minutes, I must have inadvertently rubbed my eye. My eye swelled up and I wound up in the emergency room.

Now I wash my hands immediately after playing around with ANY carbon fiber.

Joe M.

raptureboy

even a blind squirrel gets lucky once in a while

j301

My Feedback: (12)

"I bring this to you attention because of so many damaging the landing gear mounting rails. My airframe exceeds the ten pound limit and it would be characterized as a flying brick. To many times modelers blame the manufacture when in reality it is there own fault."

I think its funny when those who fly from giant, well groomed grass fields or dry lake beds dole out advice (or judgement) on how to land properly. Its like that single-engine commuter guy who brags to a Navy carrier pilot about how he "nailed that last landing at Dallas/Fort Worth!"
There are those flyers that have to ask a tad more of their gear when the equation of "when and where" isn't dropped from the mix, leaving more than the "hit the ground while its still in sight and when I'm good and ready" rules in play-- especially in a cross wind or dead-stick!(yes I have flown from both fields and strips, and I'm talking about percentages here, not bounce it every time--nobody is perfect!)

Learned something new with that Milled Fiberglass, going to try that for sure (thanks JM), and after the first time cutting carbon-fiber, I treat that stuff like its coming back from West Africa!

acdii

I had the luxury of learning to take off and land on a 70' by 300' grass runway with 6-8' walls around it made of corn, and full size aircraft parts at one end. When I go to fly at the AMA club site, it has so much open area I dont know what to do with myself. Even with all that open area I still tend to drop it right in front of me.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

That is great! When I land, I typically aim for, and usually come close to, an "X" painted in the middle of my club's runway. A couple of months ago I was flying my (taildragger) 60 size stick and all of the sudden it wanted to roll left-hard- no matter what I did. Was able to hold 100% right aileron and limp it back around to the runway, and still hit near the "X" (though not as softly as I would have liked as I didn't want to risk a go-around), then it promptly shot off the edge into the Dante's Inferno like landscape here in the desert that surrounds the runway. Turns out that the rudder servo failed and went to its mechanical limit left. Had I not "beefed up" the gear box, would have likely ripped off the bottom of the fuse. So I guess I have to amend my previous statement to "...nobody, and nothing, is perfect."

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Your right j301 I do fly off a dry lake bed but that has nothing to do with the gear mounts. This airframe was never designed to take the abuse of the average flying field runway. I'm just your average pilot but I do know how to take off and land a tail dragger properly.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

Checking in .... Been a while.... Balanced at 5.25" and happy.
I did have some time invested in the gear install also but the rails were not out of alignment as referenced. Mayn't I got lucky. Using the Robert electric 90 deg (Robert says 85 but trust me this plane is set up for the 90). Along with struts. Yes I did post a year ago or so to shorten the spring to soften the strut, Landing is absorbed and smooth. I have not weighed the plane yet. It is a little heavy with the YS up front along w gear and struts. The 3.25" wheel will fit but it's close and looks better to me.
One day I will put the stickers/markings on it I guess. LOL

good to see some of the veterans of the page still around ... Bob.. rB.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

Oh. For those on Facebook. We have a page called. RC Warbird Flyers. Hop in and it's fun. We are also planning a big warbird of all size fly in for April.
We have several Top Gun pilots on the page along with manufacturers like Kolm Engines, Meistersinger Scale and Promotors like Frank Tiano.
I am Billy Brasher on Facebook.

autotecart

this is indeed a mega thread and a very informative one. Lots of amazingly good info on building this model as I too have purchased one recently. I am stripping the old monokote and putting the chrome version onto it like the crazy horse version in real life. I have read through a large majority of the threads and still in the dark regarding upgrading the undercarriage to Robarts. I am very confused about what setup to put on the model as the Robart versions appear to be the most recommended to use as I have emailed Robart and they have not been very forthcoming with what I need to install onto my model. All they have said is look on our website, which when you do lists a lot of parts which are gineric and not specific to this mustang model. I also want to put the scale wheels on it too in aluminium but the Robart site only list these at 4 inches and above and the main gear wheel circle space is 3.5 inches at its max. Some guys have put the electric Robart undercarriage on their planes having investigated the undercarriage bay there are no holes to run the servo wires through the undercarriage bay through the wings to the wing spar to place into the modulator for the retracts to work. can anyone enlighten me on how they have run the wiring through the inner wing. I am also confused about the Robart main landing gear legs too. So all in all can anyone who has installed the complete Robart landing gear set up onto their planes upload accurate links on the web to the exact parts and bits and pieces I will need to install into my plane from the description I have outlined above.

many thanks

tony

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Forget about mechanical retracts and go EFlite electricts. Go with the Robart 85 degree struts and 3.5" wheels. Last but not least the aluminum finish your going to use will become invisible in the turns.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I agree with flycatch 100%, go with the e-flite 60-120 retracts and you'll have a lot less aggravation. I went with the stock mechanical retracts and they have worked fine but if I had it to do over I would go with the e-flite setup.

lfd47

My Feedback: (13)

Lots of people are using the 90deg. retracts, including myself. I am using the wingspan 90deg electric retract.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Tony,
Not having the wing in front of me, I can't say for sure what modifications will be necessary. I am sure there will be some. You will need to take some measurements once you get your plane, here are the links to the parts you will likely need. Click on the dimension drawing link on each page to get the measurements you will have to work with. You will have to work with a 3.25" wheel unless you open up the wheel well to accept a larger wheel.
http://robart.com/collections/retrac...obostrut-ready
http://robart.com/collections/robost...-3-3-1-4-wheel
http://robart.com/collections/robost...-3-3-1-4-wheel
http://robart.com/collections/robost...nting-brackets
As you can see, Robart is quite proud of their retracts pricewise.
On the other hand, you could go with the e-flite or another brand and save some money.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/...etract-eflg500
You could still use the Robart struts or get some from hobby king.

No matter which way you go you will need to modify the wing to some extent unless you use the stock setup. Make sure you read through the entire thread, there is a ton of info here related to the landing gear issues on this plane.

Good luck

acdii

I have the Eflites in mine, though used the stock struts, and will switch to the robarts down the line as the stock ones bend too easily. Dont worry too much about the stock rails, you will soon be replacing them, Then you can go ahead and modify them. Then you can proudly join those of us who have Been There, and Done That!

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

Definitely go with the 90 degree .. Rob art it is the 590e for this wing. Robart struts are the 3/8" and will need to be trimmed as they come over length. I ordered an extra set of spoked when covers and drilled the center for the axles so they would be spiked on both sides. The Duplicolor "chrome" paint is finally a good paint. It looks the part for this plane. Struts and wheel covers painted will shine but not too much.
There are pictures posted back to maybe last year if the results.
Here is a video of the gear I posted a year ago. They stil work great. I am running them on a 4.8v separate pack to get the speed I like.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O5M7oaULVQQ

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

Having trouble attaching from iPhone. Hope it works

autotecart

many many thanks for taking the time out to reply to my questions I very much appreciate it. I have never fitted retractable landing gear before so this is a first for me, so it will be a case of hit or miss, but with them being pretty pricey I dont want to make a mistake and buy the wrong things. There is a great deal of great information on here, quite confusing to a novice retractable gear man like myself, but I am sure with your assistance I will get the right stuff to do the job.

Yes Robart are very pricey especially that 90 degree unit at 249 each, struts at 60 each. Is there a complete kit that you can by to save yourself some money. The Robart aluminium wheels look great but are too big to put into the wheel wells on this model and I dont fancy cutting the wheel well to accommodate a bigger wheel, so I will opt for the plastic finish wheel and paint it like you guys have done. My main question regarding the electric motors is where the servo wiring would go to fit to a control unit?? The wing has no holesto slide wiring into the main spar of the wing like the flap and ailrone servos go, apart from the hole to the main spar where the pole for the OE gear that came with the kit would slot through to operate the gear that came with the kit, so how have you guys got around that problem? Thunderbolt, your video is great and is exactly as per the setup I want on mine it looks like it works a treat. Yes as for the chrome finish I hear your voices on the fact that once airbourne it will become invisible but I had the idea in my head about doing it and most of the covering is on now and it looks sweet.

lgmac

Hi,

I have this model and I am having trouble with the retracts. I bought the servo and installed it. On my transmitter, it says channel 5 should be the retracts. When I flip the retract switch the servo arm turns 180 degrees which is about 90 degrees too much. Looking at the radio's manual I see you can adjust the movement range with the Exponential setting and end point adjustments. However the EPA says it is for small adjustments. The exponential setting is seems like the setting I need to adjust but it's not an option for channel 5. Every time I try to work on the plane something else goes wrong, it's been a huge pain and hope someone can tell me how they got their retract servo to move correctly. I am using the retracts and wheels that came with the model. Thanks for any help!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPZT8 -- This is the radio system I have
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXTDF5

brockettman

Autotecart, you have probably figured it out by now that you will have to run your wiring from the electric retracts around the wheel well and through the wing ribs. You just have to decide how to go about that, and where your wiring will best work for you.

Igmac, The retract servo is designed to rotate 180 degrees. You won't be able to adjust it like a regular servo. Use a small disc on the servo instead of a long arm to get the amount of travel necessary to raise and lower the retract to a locked position. Once you get the throws close, you can adjust your end points to relieve any binding.

Good luck guys!

Duplicator41

My Feedback: (1)

Don't waste your time with the retracts that came with the plane. For one, they are not that reliable and as you found out a PITA to set up. On mine I bit the bullet and installed E-Flite 60-120 size 85 degree electric retracts and those did the trick. I suppose you could get some cheaper ones at Hobby King. My experience with HK retracts has not been the best. And by the way the retract switch on your radio is not proportional, it's an on/off switch.

Cheers,

warhwk

My Feedback: (3)

Igmac,
I use a servo wheel and set the total amount of throw based on distance from center. I put the ez connectors about 2/3 out from the center. If you mess up, turn the spline one tooth and try again, further or closer from the center. Expo is not available on retract channels. You can measure the total travel of the retract rod, then use 1/2 of that as your distance from center. If your radio has EPA for channel 5, you can fine tune the servo throw. My radio does not, and the retract throw is set purely mechanical. You will want the retract rods to almost overlap as they move 180 degrees with the wheel.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

lgmac,
Like the others have said if you can go with a different set of retracts, then do it. But if for whatever reason you cannot you might want to check this link out on how to install that type of retracts. You are not using the same brand of retracts as this guy but this guy did a real nice job explaining how mechanical retracts should be done.
Link ===> http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1015996

Good luck....

lgmac

You guys are awesome! The instructions told me to use a 6 legged servo connector and cut all the legs off except for two so I did that. I finally got it working but occasionally the screw in the servo spins instead and the arm which causes the gear to not fully attract or retract. However I had not thought of measuring the arm on the retract before installing it or using a round servo wheel and drilling custom holes and those are also good options. The EPA setting didn't seem to do anything. Thank you everyone who helped, I should be able to move on to the next steps now. I'll probably be to afraid to fly this thing since it took so much work.