Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay RaptureBoy,
Thanks for the input and I'll see how it runs once it is installed and set up. I do want to thank you for your information and helping me simplify my instillation. I am now plugging up all the holes in the fire wall with hard wood dowels...then I'll make my shims and install the engine. The throttle cable will b modified from my last instillation but it is a simple set up really. I'm going with a 3300ma 6v Nickle battery (high discharge battery) and I decided to go with one battery to drive the Rx and ignition box. I've Hobby King struts and Lado electrical retracts for the undercarriage and a fixed tail wheel-per kit. A 14 oz. roto tank set on the C.G. I'll need to test run all my servo's and make sure all is flight ready...but I'm getting excited.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

[QUOTE=SteveR3750;12183661

My elevator's were warped and the drill holes were off so when installed the elevators were not aligned. I tried to tweak the joiner wire and it ended up snapping in half. Go figure. Tower is going to send me a replacement tail section to include the joiner wire but it's currently out of stock and on backorder. Go figure again. Oh well, this will keep me from getting in any real big hurry and tempt me to break out the airbrush and test my skills at trying to weather and dirty it up a little.[/QUOTE]

It came out pretty good and in the air at 60 to 100mph, nobody will know the difference. Sorry to hear about the elevator problem. But better to get it fixed now than to have to play with it later in the air. Hopefully it will not be back ordered for long. If you are really lucky may be they keep a few on hand for support while it is listed as out of stock on the web site.

raptureboy

Hey Bob, glad to hear your all most set to go. whenever I flew mine the guys would say "your having way to much fun" I can't wait to get her repaired and in the air again. I would have to say that the Mustang is the most beautiful fighter ever produced, with the spitfire in a dead heat. Search 21 mustangs on youtube and check out the amazing group of mustangs spelling out P 51. Be sure to keep track of the amps used on that battery. I think I avg about 300mah per flight running one battery and i use a 2500mah Life battery, so after 4 flights I recharge. With 14 oz of gas you will have no problem going 30 min per flight. I dropped my tank down to 10oz and fly 13-15 min and still have fuel to spare. Like you I mounted it on the c.g and put the ignition up in the nose and the battery in the tail just under the back of radiator scoop by opening up a hole in the fuselage. I still need a little tail weight so I added lead shot mixed in epoxy and poured it in just under the tail wheel. Good luck!

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay RaptureBoy,
I managed to get my fire wall holes filled with hard wood dowel pieces and the epoxy is drying. I've pre-drilled one hole to begin the process of installing the engine mount onto the fir wall, but this is a very delicate step. I want my spinner to fuselage fit to be near perfect...so I will need to take some time to do it right. I used the 14 oz. Roto fuel tank...because I had one on hand. I will have a Tx engine ignition shut off installed...so if I lose my throttle servo...I can still land kill the engine and land the model. I've yet figured out how I will run my choke push/pull wire...and how did you do yours on your Mustang? I will be installing a 3300 mah. battery and I'll use a battery eliminator to use just one battery. I do have a battery checker installed in the cockpit, so I can keep a close eye on the power I've used. I install these now on all my models and I've not lost a model from a bad battery since.
Soft Landing Always,
Bobby of Maui

raptureboy

Hey Bob, go to pg 109 post 2725 I made a small L bracket out of brass flat stock and 2-56 rod on a ball link coming through the lower cowl. Also pictures of the duct work for cooling

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay RaptureBoy,
Well...I finally managed to get the DLE 20R installed with an excellent fit for the spinner to fuselage line up. I've just under 3/32" gap and its nuts on the money. It took me three tries to get it right and its kind of tight in there too. I purposely kept my engine mounted on the mount aft of what was really needed...and I added one 3/32nd. and two 1/64th shims to get a near perfect fit for the spinner to nose of the bird. I thought I would be able to do it with just carefully mounting my engine onto the engine mount...but decided to do what I did to mount my K&B 1.00 in the original install-I shimmed to fit. I used good aircraft quality plywood shims...not light ply. Light ply will crush easy...but quality aircraft grade hard plywood wont.

I worked on the installation all Sunday and today...maybe eight hours total and what a royal pain in the tail feathers too. But it came out slicker then snot and happy with the instillation. Now I have to figure out how to set up my throttle servo, coke and access to the carb needle valves...this may prove to be a real issue for I hate to drill holes in the top cowl of the fuselage, but I may have to do it to get access to my needle valves. I'm going back and look at what you did and then get busy with the rest of the instillation.

What size adapter nut do I need for a DLE 20R....???? I need an adapter nut to fit my engine so I can install the spinner...(7mm ?).

This is a bit more work then I originally thought it would be...but what ever does come out simple these day's.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

raptureboy

Looks good Bob I also spent a lot of time getting the engine mounted but it was worth it. I made a little door in the top of the nose to access the needles. I did the same on my P-40. I found using 45lb test wire fishing leader with ball links on each end made hooking up the throttle and adjusting the linkage easy. I just did the same for a giant scale 51 I am putting together for a club member. I figure if it works for my car then why not for my plane. You can snake it around anything by running it inside a piece of sullivan golden rod.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay RaptureBoy,
I found that my fire wall plywood had on my model was a bit to soft for me. When I torqued down the engine mount firewall through bolts...it compressed the firewall plywood, and needed to install wide area washers to make it work for me. I also installed longer bolts, installed wide area washers on the back of the fire wall and installed lock washers and nuts. This is all behind the blind nuts...and yes...its the first time I've done this, but it looks like it will work just fine. I'm concerned about the vibration and why I love to build my Top Flight models from kits. If I don't like the wood...I can change it during the building process. But I do believe it will work out ok.

I will install my throttle cable just like you did, using cable, a DuBro easy connector and Sullivan plastic tubes. It will be an easy task...nothing like the engine install...that took some time to get right...but boy...does it look great and well worth the effort.

With Top Flight ARF's so inexpensive in the past two years...I've purchased P-47D and Corsair to assemble. I managed to pick both of these T.F. ARF's at under $400.00 for both. The kits cost more then this shipped to Hawaii...so picked them up. I've had my P-51D for over six years and I had one of the first batch sold by Tower Hobbies. This is my third T.F. P-51 model. I built two from kits, a really nice "B" and a nother "D" I retired several years ago. I managed to find a T.F. "B" conversion kit and I may pull my old kit built "D" and make it a "B." I am amazed at just how sweet these models fly and look so good in the air. I'll need to pull the old S.T. .75 out of my old "D" and stick in another small gas engine. These kits build so easy too and even easier to modify.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha,
Well today I managed to finish installing my engine...and started on the throttle. I installed the DLE throttle arm, because it was the only one that would fit, with the muffler installed. I had a really nice long red throttle arm...but it didn't fit. I took your suggestion and decided to use a ball link on the throttle arm. I wasn't sure if the plastic ball links and ball would put up with all the heat, being so close to the muffler. I could put in a shield like you did...and I still may do this...but I found a good Sullivan ball link and its removable, snap in place, spring lock. I've used these on 35cc class engines with great results. But on this instillation, I'm going to have to get a bit creative. No matter how you slice it, its a tight fit. I'm going with an HD1501 MGBB servo on the throttle. It puts out over 230" lbs of pull @ 6V. This should be plenty of pull for what I have in mind and when its installed...I'll post some pictures. I'm using an Airtronics 10G and 94322 servo's every where else.

I'm going to make a hatch like you did to have access to the mixture screws on the carburetor. I'm thinking of using some thin alum. plate for the cover and use small screws to hold it in place. I will also plug two holes in my cowl and open it up to expose most the cylinder head. The ignition box will go on the floor of the fuel tank bay and maybe my on/off switch and fill valve on the port side. Its not real scale...but for a weekend warrior it will do just fine. Keep it simple...and who can see the flippen switch flying full out low level pass.

My battery is a high discharge 3000 mha, nickel five cell. It came from NoBSBateries...and will do the job just fine. I am running just one battery and I do have an onboard battery voltage checker in the cockpit. The battery is going aft like yours, in the coolant fairing. Velcro and foam will keep battery in place and it worked on my last Mustang just fine this way. I believe I'm going to be nose heavy with this instillation.

What surprised me was that the spinner supplied for the kit is not really very scale. I purchased a spinner from Dave Brown that fit this model like a glove. The airframe Top Flight built for this kit is very close to scale and the parabolic shape of the Dave Brown aluminum spinner, fits this fuselage like it was made especially for the kit.

I'm really pleased with the way the spinner fit onto the fuselage...now just to get every thing else installed as clean.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

SteveR3750

My Feedback: (1)

I finally got around to putting the maiden on my Mustang today. Conditions were a little less than desirable with gusty winds but I couldn't hold out any longer. First flight went well and it only took a few clicks of down trim to get it flying hands off. Elevator seemed a little touchy for me on high rates so I switched to low rates and was much smoother considering the winds I was up against. I used half flaps for landing and still came in a little hot. I was afraid it would slow too much against the wind and I'd lose it so I opted to keep a little power all the way down.

Second flight wasn't so good. I nosed over on takeoff and busted the prop and ripped a big chunk out of the spinner. I have replacements on the way.

I balanced mine at 5 1/4 but I think I am going to adjust it to the recommended 5 5/8. I'll think on this and maybe get another flight in on it in better conditions before doing so.

From what I could tell on the first flight, even with the high winds, this is going to be a fun model to fly. Very predictable, solid in the air and looks great on a fly by. It's not quite as stable as my kit built Topflite P-47 but I'd rate it a close second. It will definitely become one of my go to planes in the future.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Just got my replacement wing set from Tower. Best-odds tips for making this wing able to do more than one landing without the gear ripping out?

raptureboy

Avoid banging it in on landings, and fill in the space under the leading edge mounting rail with epoxy and milled fiberglass. If you could see it with the sheeting off it's a very weak design.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay RaptureBoy,
I agree and what I did to beef up my mounting gear. Unfortunately most ARF models have the same issue...weak landing gear blocks and supports.

I fashioned two hardwood pieces of wood to fit under my landing gear blocks. I then as you did, filled in the whole area with milled fiberglass and 30 minute epoxy. I also coated as much of the inside of the wing with thin CA...to harden and stiffen up the wood. It work great...

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Shaun Evans

LOL... avoid banging it on landings

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Shaun,
I found out the best way to land a WWII fighter...any of them...is to do wheel landings. Keep you power up a bit, and fly it down to the runway. It works for me and keeps you from getting to slow and tip stalling. Some times I land a bit hot...but after I touch down...I cut the power and let the tail lower on its own accord, after I cut power. If you land a bit faster like I do, you will need to let the model settle on its own...don't bring the tail down by your Tx...or you may find yourself back in the air...now really slow. I've done this for years and works great with strong cross winds.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

acdii

Thats how my Cub lands, have to let the tail come down on its own or its back up in the air.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay acdii,
I built a 1/4 scale Sig cub years ago...if flew with a K&B .61 sweet and nice. It was light too and almost impossible to land 3-point. It would fly so slow...the only way I could get her on the ground was by doing a wheel landing, cut the power...and wait until it stop flying...and I mean wait a while. Now that is one great flying Cub and I had the full wing, not the cut down wing.

With full flaps on the Top Flight P-51...it lands smooth and predictable. I just carry power and fly her down...I set up my elevator trim so it has a nice steady and kind of flat descend-and power set low...about 1/4 throttle,,,maybe a bit less-maybe a bit more. It all depends on the temp and winds. By rocking the ailerons a bit...just a slight bit...you will help settle the model onto its mains-but only when your wheels are about to touch down. Its a very subtle maneuver... Don't ask me why it works...but with full flaps the model really settles down and rock solid. I've tried three point landings...but only managed one or two-what I would call decent landings-in all my attempts at it. It is an amazing model in many ways and just love how it handles.

I'm really glad I took the time and built up my landing gear rails in my wings. Its one of the weak points on this model...but like I said before...all ARF models seem to have this problem. I'm hard on my landing gear and I fly from a field that always seems to have a cross wind. To me its well worth the time and the model flys like a dream.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

raptureboy

I have a friend in my club who just gave me his unstarted mustang along with a set of Robart retracts and a brand new DLE 20 in the box. He has macular degeneration and his eyesight is getting so poor now that he knows that he will not be able to fly anything soon. He would not let me pay him anything for it and said that because of all the times I have helped him with questions about gas engines and other setup issues he wanted me to have it since I crashed mine last summer. I am speechless, I never felt like I was ever doing more than just helping out a fellow club member. Thank you, Mark.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I did something similar by helping out a fellow modeler. The SOB sold the plane and bragged about the money he made. Never again will I feel compassion for those less fortunate.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha Gentlemen,
I managed to do some work on my T.F. P-51D. I set up the choke for my airframe...and I will have to admit...I did it far different then I first thought I would. The way the coke arm on the carburetor sets in the engine mount...there wasn't any way to place it in the front part of the engine-that I liked. I tried several ways and decided to run the push/pull wire, aft. I at first was thinking of using a servo to control my choke...and it would have been an easy instillation. I just didn't like the idea of using a servo...when a finger operated push/pull system is simple to operate, and you know exactly what have-doing it manually. So I ran the push/pull wire outside the starboard side of the fuselage, above the wing saddle. I put the push/pull 2/56 wire in a plastic tube...from the carb, flush to the fuselage side. I have to do a bit of clean up and re-cover the area I came through the fuselage with the push/pull wire, but once this is done, you will hardly see the wire. I used JB weld to hold in the plastic tube onto the fuselage on the inside. 4 hour JB Weld, gets rock hard and will not only support and secure the tube, but will support any operation too.

I made two cross beams to support my fuel tank and used rubber bands to hold it into place. I used thick light ply and ran a 2/56 wire through the supports to hold onto the rubber bands. It sets directly on the C.G. so no pitch change during the flight. I like everything removable if I can, and I've used this system to hold down fuel tanks before and it worked well for me.

I have to install the on/off switch and fill valve for the Roto fuel tank. I installed a 16 oz. tank...I know a 12 oz, fuel tank would be plenty...but I had this one on hand... : )

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

raptureboy

That was a little harder than it had to be but hey it works. I made a bracket out of 3/32 brass flat stock and attached it under the back mounting bolt and the wire comes through the lower cowl just below the spinner and add a small wheel collar to be able to grab it easily . I have done this on 4 planes now with DLE 20's it's very discreet.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Rapureboy,
I agree...I would have liked the choke outside the cowl area...but it worked out ok for me, though a bit different. Today I will be cleaning up the exit area for the engine choke push/pull wire and recover. I did a little clean up work yesterday and mixed up some 5 min. epoxy and filled in the area's around the tube, on the out side of the fuselage. This was to fill in the area and to make it more flush. I'll use some filler to final the area and recover.

I ended up putting the fill and over flow lines out forward of the firewall and down, just behind the exhaust. So I have a metal plug for the fill line and an open vent tube coming out of the cowl. Keeps it simple and the fuel lines are set up with plastic brackets to hold them in place. I'll post some more pictures latter.

By the way...placing a wheel collar on the wire was a stroke of genius.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

acdii

I have a friend who I did some work for, and he never flew, but liked to build, he was in the Air Force, so once you get airplanes in the blood, its hard to get rid of it. After a few years he contacted me letting me know he is losing his memory and would I take his stuff. I felt guilty not paying for it, but he insisted, and to date I still have it all, except for a few items I gave to my friend. So far I have used the radio, and flew one plane, the other plane is a Funtana 90 that I wont fly, but used the guts in another plane, and the other is a huge CARF Extra 330L that I have not flown yet, too afraid of damaging it. I would more likely trade some of it than sell it, though I have given thought to selling the CARF, only so I could use the money towards something for my other planes, but not to make any money off it, wouldn't even think of doing that.

raptureboy

Yep I hear ya. I value the friendship more than the money. I am using the engine in the Waco I am building right now and eventually I will transfer all the gear from my wreak and then I can rebuild it while I get to fly the new one.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha,
Well, I managed to finish my engine instillation, modified my cowl a bit and now into the electronics. I installed the battery eliminator unit with Velcro and my receiver will sit on top of my fuel tank. in foam. The unit comes with a warning light...just like normal kill switches...and works the same as a kill switch, Tx operated. I drilled a .185" hole and with a snug fit, pushed the little light in to the floor of the cockpit. So you will be able to see the light through the canopy.

I'm using a 3300 mha high discharge rated, five cell. nickel, NoBs battery. This battery was made for this kind of instillation, and its great for use with digital servo's. I've had real good luck with their batteries and with any luck it will balance out the model. The DLE 20R and the K&B 1.00 are close in weight...and I can't wait to finish and get this engine running. I need to cover my gear doors and install them on my struts. I bought some struts from Hobby King, and they look good and fit perfectly onto my Lado retracts. If they can hold up to my landings...I'll be really pleased.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui