acdii

Well I think I found the reason it was so nose over happy. The tires were rubbing slightly on the struts. I flipped them over so the Goodyear is on the outside and now they spin freely. Could have been just enough drag that when the wheel touched ground, the weight pressing down on the tire turned it into a brake, and BAM on its nose. As they are now, the axle is even with the leading edge of the wing, and that does help a lot. Before I looped it into the ground the axles were behind the leading edge, and it would nose over at anything over idle. I also replaced the 14 ounce stock tank that you couldn't see fuel level in with a Dubro 16 ounce. Next up, fine tune the engine to hopefully get a few more minutes of flight per tank, I think it is overly rich, leave a pretty good smoke trail, unlike my other planes with Saito.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

Hopefully that is the issue and you now have it all worked out. Good luck on the test flight.....

SuperMustang

Hi Acdii,

My Mustang handles like a dream on grass field with very stable ground handling characteristics. Absolutely no Hose over at all and its a dream to fly. The structs are in the original orientation with no modifications at all.
Mine is balanced perfectly. One reason could be that your model is quite Nose heavy which is affecting the ground CG. here is a video of mine on a grass field.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-crHPuW5OUQ&feature=youtu.be

acdii

CG is fine at 5 1/4". It flies rock solid so the last thing I want to mess with is the CG. Already had issues with it being tail heavy. Pretty sure it was the tires rubbing that caused it.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I would imagine the plane is very stable with the CG at 5 1/4". I flew mine at 5 5/8" as specified in the manual and was pleased with how it handled. That explains why mine didn't tend to nose over so easy.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

Good to know that 5-1/4 is rock solid. I just re-balanced mine to get it back to there from 5 inches. I hope to finally fly this after so many engine problems due to a bad needle valve housing and 3 years of dealing with medical issues.

acdii

I originally had it had 5 5/8" and it was very tail sensitive and nosed over at the slightest thought. I do believe the gear has everything to do with it, so hoping this resolved it.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

I hope so too... Good luck....

raptureboy

Looks like you are using the Robart tires? If so add the foam inserts they sell to them as they are too soft to support the weight of this plane and will squash flat when they touch down, and this will cause the gear to dig in. Landing requires good throttle management and flying right to the ground. Good luck on the next flights.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Found this video of a TF .60 P-51 with a DLE 35 installed! Seemed to fly OK but landed fast and then crashed.

https://youtu.be/lkN6mG3vAAA

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lkN6mG3vAAA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

acdii

This is most likely the reason. I forgot they have the foam inserts. Looks like something else to add to my TH list.

DLE 35? That is way too much for this plane. It might fly it well, but that is just a lot of weight and stress to put on these lightly built planes. Had he not crashed it, it probably would have come apart at some point in the air. I run a DLE 30 in a H9 P-47 150(30cc size) and it vibrates the crap out of the frame. I had the RX in the middle of the servo mount, which placed it pretty much dead center inline with the engine, and it shook more than Nina Hartleys toys.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Acdii,
You absolutely right...I always place small cut brass tubing on my wheel axels to keep the wheel off the strut and spinning free-or use small washers to do the honors. I also do my best to get the center line of the axels even with my leading edge or forward of the leading edge of the wing.

Now a DLE 35 in this airframe is nuts. It is so over powered that just at a good idle...he will have issues with it slowing down...especially with an 18x12 prop. Way, way over powered. I do believe the wing is strong enough to handle the power...for if you read way back in the beginning of this thread...I destroyed my first wing dropping a ladder and myself on the wing by accident. The wing center section stayed together...and was a real pleasant surprise. So I do believe the wing may handle the load...but I'm not sure about the rest of the airframe. I do pray he beefed up the engine mounts and properly secured all with in the fuse-remember why back when they first built the old red box kits...they used a K&B .61 for power. But he must have had to add a bit of balance weight to the tail to get that model to balance...and if you watched the video...he didn't fly it to the ground...but got to slow with the added weight of the engine and lead and managed to get into a real pickle for himself (pilot induced oscillation). I found if you fly her down to the run way with a bit of speed...once on the ground...she will slow down quickly for you...at least mine seems to do so. I also love Robart Scale wheels on my models...they grip like crazy and give me good directional control and I also install the foam inserts into the tires that Robart sells. The only issue I have with Robart Scale wheels is...you wore them out ! I ware five sets on my kit built T.F. P-51B-in six years.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

acdii

Yeah, the wing is tough, it is the Fuse I would be worried about on an ARF. So little brittle glue to hold it together. I used at least a 1/2 ounce of medium CA to strengthen this one.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Accdi,
When ever I get a new ARF...I always mix up some 45 minute epoxy and thin it with denatured alcohol. I don't need much alcohol to thin it and then I spread it all over the insides of the Fuse, to include the fuel tank bay, receiver area and as far back as the aft bulkhead (to where the trailing edge of the wing meets the inner aft fuse bulkhead). It may take a few day's to harden...but eventually it will. I take thin C.A. and soak the fuse aft to the tail section...and after every thing is dry, start the build. For me...it does wonders for internal strength and if you ever bust open a fuel tank...all the balsa is protected. My last T.F. P-51B lasted more then six years...and if it wasn't for a wind sock pole jumping up and grabbing my model-I would still have the airframe. I wore out one S.T. G90...and had over 100 flights on my second G90...before its demise. But you know what...this works for me quite well and do it religiously to all my models.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Bob -- Would you mind posting some pics of your gear door install with the collars? I am having trouble with mine sticking too far out.
I loved reading your posts on your efforts to re-engine your model. I was happy to read it flies like a dream.
I too put my mustang on the shelf for 5+ years and recently got it up last week. I have missed it. Now I am debating if I should keep the Saito 125 glow... or swap it for a gasser.

acdii

Convert the 125 to CDI instead. More bang for the buck, power of glow, and economy of gas. That and you can use lower or no nitro fuel and oil. It's on my list of to-do's. I have an FG-11 that I am going to get a glow carb for and try it out. Will be a $40 experiment, and if it doesn't work out, at least I will have a spare carb for my other Saito.

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

I will look into the CDI... is this an easier option than a gas conversion? I will have to check if my LHS carries glow fuel without nitro...

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Way too big of an engine for this model.... and he was landing with zero flaps... at idle... got slow and then bounced.... still at idle and the right wing stalls.... ouch. I wonder if it was truly balanced as well? Hopefully he can get it repaired and pull from this thread -- tons of amazing advise and experience.

acdii

The CDI conversion is easier since you are only adding the timing to the engine and not replacing the carb or tank. There is a magnet ring attached to the collet, and a pickup attached to the cam cover, then it is just a matter of indexing the timing ring to TDC so you are at somewhere in the 36* BTDC range. Then install a spark plug instead of the glow plug, mount the ignitor and battery, and off you go. Another plus to it is that glow doesn't have that lingering stink of gas. It also uses a much smaller percentage of oil so the model stays cleaner.

As far as getting fuel, maybe ordering it would be better than off the shelf stuff, that way you can get the perfect mix, and may be less expensive in the long run. Wildcat makes a 5% mix with 18% blend, though I know that the oil blend in a Saito is not very good. My Saitos like 100% synthetic and choke on Castor. Check with Byron, they make Wildcat fuels.

drube

Hi guys! I'm reading this thread from the beginning but have some questions before I buy one. Can you guys tell me how it flys? Does it feel heavy in the air or does it float? Does it float in on landings? I'm looking to put a DLE 20 in it. Will that make it too nose heavy and is there room for the 20?
Thanks!

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

It flys great...very smooth and stable. It does not float...it flys like a warbird. DLE 20 is perfect.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay drupe,
Its a fighter plane...and you need to fly it differently then a trainer. It does not float and with gear and flaps down...you will need to carry power down to touch down. I balanced mine at the 5 3/8 th's. to 5 1/2" forward of the leading edge at the fuselage. The manual calls out for 5 5/8 th's forward. My model and the way I fly...it the more forward C.G. worked best. Mine was easy to balance and its not an issue. If your just off of trainers...I would not recommend this model for your first war bird...unless you get an experienced pilot to fly her for you. You sound like a new R/C pilot and if you read through this thread, you will find good advice. I don't want to discourage you...but if you are not off of trainers yet...there are many other models I would recommend.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

drube

Thanks guys! No, i'm not a new pilot. The only warbirds I have flown are the Hangar 9 Hellcat and Corsair. I really liked the way the Hellcat flew. I'm just looking for some kind of comparison, that's all.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Drube,
Great to hear your going to put this one together...she is the best flying Mustang of any in its class. Your going to love it, for it grooves and with the DLE20...you will be a happy camper.

By the way...I flew a F6F for over a year with a 36cc gas engine...and this model was my all time favorite. VQ war birds sold me the ESM kit and I repainted mine (U.S.S. Bunker Hill colors)...used Sierra pneumatic retracts (great gear) an a PTE 36 for power. Loved how it flew...but I can tell you...set this Mustang up right...and you will fall in love with it.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

drube

Thanks, Bob!
I was also looking at the VQ warbirds as well. They look great! I don't know anything about them so that's why i'm choosing TF. Down the road I plan on stripping the covering and then glass and paint.
Here's a pic of my Hangar 9 Hellcat.


I'm also still interested in the Giant scale kit. I like building. I have a decision to make!